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The Size And Design Of Tailored Cashmere Garments

2013/10/4 14:59:00 74

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net body size; (here we discuss only the dimensions of the circumference, and the size of the length does not seem to matter much to the size of the addition and release. Here we do not focus on discussion). This size is also the prototype size we have collected from our customers.

It is the size of the net because we are required to measure the size of the underwear in the thinnest underwear.

This dimension is very important. It is the basic dimension and basis for the size and size of the craftsmen, so it must be accurately measured.

Our measuring method is to first use the right hand to surround the client's body at the beginning of the tape, and then take the tape at the beginning of the tape with the left hand, and pinch it with the thumb and forefinger or middle finger of the left hand. The beginning of the tape measure depends on the fullest part of the body position (this is very important) so that the index finger or middle finger naturally lies between the tape and the human body (that is, we often say a pad), and the right hand pinches the other end of the tape to gently wrap around the human body.

It is a very simple problem to collect the size of the net body. If it is operated by a craftman who does this single process, the problem is even more difficult.

But this problem is not a simple thing in the tailor - made sweater, which is very related to the current pattern of tailor - made sweaters.

no matter whether it is cashmere or sweater shop, the tailor made is measured by the shop assistants, and the process is completed by the technician of the factory.

This problem came out. Most of the shop assistants did not carry out professional training. They knew nothing about the process, and the collected net size was not accurate, so that the factory's craftsmen lost the basic basis of adding and putting the size. Especially the national quantity and custom made sweater factory, the orders received from all over the country were the franchisees, and the method and habits of each shop clerk were different.

這里還存在一個最頭疼的問題，哪就是每個地區(qū)的客戶穿著習(xí)慣不一樣(比如說長江以南地區(qū)的客戶穿羊絨衫時習(xí)慣在里面再穿一件薄的棉毛衫，而長江以北的客戶則習(xí)慣光身子貼身穿羊絨衫)，而同一地區(qū)的不同客戶的穿著習(xí)慣也不一樣，有人喜歡寬松有人習(xí)慣合體還有人習(xí)慣緊身等，并且客戶不是工藝員接待的，客戶的穿著習(xí)慣和要求店員又不能十分準確的反饋給工藝員，這就更增加了工藝員在加放尺寸時的盲動性!測量凈體和成衣尺寸加放所存在的這些問題往往使我們辛辛苦苦精工細作的成品變得沒有任何意義，因為成衣尺寸不合顧客的要求而顧客退單，使我們本來已裝在口袋里的鈔票又還給了客戶!＜/p＞

to solve the above problems, it is suggested that there is a unified method to measure the size of the net body. If it is necessary to carry out some necessary technical training for the staff of the volume shop, it is best.

Between the shop assistants and the craftsmen, they should be accustomed and tacit to each other.

two. When the volume is measured, the customer must stand in front of the mirror and ask the customer to look at the mirror. Do not bow and look at the ruler. (bending the waist will affect the accuracy of the measurement). In this way, customers can see the location of the measured length in the mirror at the length of the body, which is very important for measuring the length of the garment.

three; shop assistants must inquire about the height and weight of the customers when they measure the volume, and fill in the orders of the customers' age and height and weight. If we can do more detailed work, we should record the customers' body characteristics and the customary wear habits of customers, so that our craftsmen can have a more comprehensive grasp of the customer, so that we can have a good idea of the finished product size.

four; it is better to leave the customer's telephone number (which is now generally left behind), because the craftsmen often feel the customer's body size is not suitable for the styled structure required by customers when designing the finished product size, so that the technician can communicate with customers in time to adjust the problem.

In addition, for the factories that open stores in the country, it is best to divide the franchisees in different parts of the country into different craftsmen. This has two advantages: one is to facilitate the communication, communication, tacit understanding and common understanding of the salesmen and franchisees; two, it is convenient for the technicians to have a good idea of the wearing habits of the franchisees in the area.

five; the finished product size is also the size of the sweater garment finished by the whole process after we finished the sweater production, and it is also the size that the customer finally demands to fit the garment.

We know that for customers, they do not know what net body size and finished product size. They only want the satisfactory size that fits on the body. This dimension is very important and is the size of the craft design.

this size is generally obtained in two cases. One is the size of the product that the craftsman measured according to the size of the net and the height, weight, age, posture and wearing habit of the customers marked by the order. According to his experience, the size of the product is measured by a salesperson who measured the net body to the customer and then measured the size of the garment through the customer's inspection and communication with his customers and his own experience.

These two situations have their own advantages. The first situation is that the technicians add and enlarge the size to reduce the pressure of the franchisees and the shop assistants. Especially, the new franchisees or the new salesmen are not very competent, and do not know how to add the size.

But this has increased the confusion and pressure for the craftsmen, because the net size of the order is not determined by itself, and it is not sure whether the data of the net body size is accurate.

there is also a situation where franchisees or shop assistants directly report the size of the garment, and the craftsmen complete the design process according to the garment size required by the order.

The advantage of this method is the face-to-face communication between the shop assistants and the customers. The customers' wearing habits and wearing requirements as well as the customers' posture and characteristics are all in the hands of the shop assistants. The size of the garments obtained is of course accurate and reasonable, and also greatly alleviates the perplexity and pressure of the craftsmen.

But this method requires shop assistants to have some knowledge of knitting technology, especially to understand the meaning and relationship between the two concepts of customer's net body size and finished product size. In addition, we should also understand the characteristics of elasticity, shrinkage, carrying and draping of different grey fabrics.

If there are conditions, it is best to carry out some necessary technical training for the shop assistants.

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< --EndFragment-- > > we discussed the specific meaning of the two concepts of net body size and ready-made garment size and the relationship among these two concepts and the existing problems and solutions.

Due to the fact that there are too many contents involved in the dimension addition and placement, and because of the limited space, we do not discuss systematically, but only focus on key points.

because of the characteristics of cashmere raw materials and the wearing properties of cashmere sweaters, we know that < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_f.asp" > cashmere sweater < /a > is mainly used for warm clothing with close fitting clothing.

Fit and self-cultivation is the key to our dimensional design.

Taking women's clothing as an example, we will mainly discuss the size and location of the most important and difficult parts of the garment size, waist circumference, hem, sleeve width and shoulder width.

Let's talk about chest circumference. As we all know, the design of bust size is one of the most important parts of the sweater size. The size of the sweater is also distinguished by the size of the chest size. P

For women's pullovers, the size of the garment is usually -5 - 5 centimeters based on the measured body size.

You may ask that there is a difference of 10 centimeters between -5 and 5. How do we grasp this? It is really a difficult question to answer in a few words.

Because the design of chest size is greatly influenced by age, posture and wearing habits, and it is also influenced by grey fabric.

here is the personal experience of Xiao Bian for many years.

Middle aged women in northern China are accustomed to wearing a cashmere sweater in a light fitting body. If they want to dress properly, they generally add -1 - 2 centimeters. Because they are light skins, the skin is very smooth. Although the size of the finished products is almost the same as that of the net body, they can be worn very well.

If customers want to wear loose spots, add 3 - 5 cm feet, so that they can wear a cotton sweater.

If the customer wants to wear tight clothing, subtract 3 - 5 centimeters.

For customers in the south, because they are accustomed to wear a "a href=" http://www.91se91.com/news/index_f.asp "cotton sweater" /a, cotton sweater is not as smooth as skin, and small size will not support them when they are on the body. So they must add more points. Customers are required to fit in and generally add 3 to 5 centimeters.

For middle-aged and elderly female customers, they are used to wear underwear such as cotton sweater and so on in cashmere sweater, and the possibility of wearing comfortable and comfortable place is due to age factors. So the addition of chest size is generally 4 to 5 centimeters.

For young women, especially the slim and graceful female customers, they usually want to show her slender waist and straight chest, so the size of the bust must not be large, that is to say, rather than big, generally add -5 - 0 centimeters.

maybe some people will say how to reduce the size? Is this chest size small? Actually, it will not be small, because the elasticity of knitted fabrics such as cashmere sweater is very large. In a circle of circumference (85-100 centimeters) minus 5 centimeters, it will not feel too tight. It is only to make the chest appear more prominent, but to highlight the chest is exactly what young women need.

In fact, when we design the 2X1 elastic shirt, if we want to achieve the effect of self-cultivation, we usually have to design the chest size of the finished product less than thirty percent of the chest size.

the size of the chest is designed to talk about how the waist size is added to the design. In fact, the importance of the design and addition of the waist size is not less than that of the chest size.

Xiaobian has seen a lot of custom-made storefronts and even does not measure waist size when giving customers the size. While the craftsmen design waist size only according to the size of the chest size minus 6 - 8 cm design, so the size of the waist circumference is obviously unreasonable, because our customers are not all standard stature, not everyone can be reduced by 6 to 8 centimeters according to the size of the chest circumference.

Whether the waist size is more important than the bust size in the personal experience of Xiaobian is a fact that a cashmere sweater worn by women is more obvious than waist circumference on the waist, especially for women who are not very graceful.

The size of the body is larger than a few centimeters or smaller than a few centimeters on the customer. It is not very obvious. But if the waist size of the finished product is larger than the net waist size, 6 centimeters or more will obviously feel that the waist is empty and the fabric is redundant. If it is only larger than 2 centimeters, the waist will be stretched. The slim and graceful woman can still see the eyes. If the female customers with the waist have fat, they will find your trouble. (the waist circumference of the human body in breathing is changing, and the loose volume of 2 centimeters is less than the circumference change due to breathing). experience tells us that a a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_f.asp" > women's wear > /a > cashmere sweater, if the finished product has a bust size ratio.

So experience tells us that the finished product of women's cashmere sweater is 3-5 centimeters larger than that of the net body. If it requires a loose customer and a 5-6 centimeter foot,

For customers who wear tight clothing, we should not make the waist size less than 3 centimeters. We only need to make the size of the bra size less than 3-5 centimeters of the chest size. Because the client wants tight fitting, just wants to highlight the chest, and does not want to show the waist fat.

here we need to say more about it. When we design the finished product of women's cashmere sweater, we must consider the three dimensions of the chest circumference, waist circumference and hem. We should consider not to apply mechanically, pay attention to the proportionate proportions of the three. We should respect the actual shape of the customers and make them fit well. We should also consider that the sizes of these three girth should be coordinated. Especially for those women who are not beautiful in shape, we should make good use of their advantages and avoid disadvantages through our size design, so that they can wear out the beautiful and beautiful effect.

For example, for the larger belly customers, we can increase the height of the waist and increase the size of the hem so as to make the abdomen less prominent than the empty ones below the waist. For the customers who have big waist, waist width and hip width, if we design the waist size, if we add the normal size to the waist, we will make the reduction to the chest and the needling of the waist to the chest very urgent. This shape is obviously not harmonious and beautiful. It will also make the axillary fabric more wrinkled. If we reduce the size of the chest circumference and the size of the hem appropriately, we can solve this contradiction, which not only highlights the aesthetic feeling of the customer's chest, but also makes the overall shape of the product harmonious and beautiful.

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< --EndFragment-- > there are many craftsmen and clients who believe that fat people should not wear waist style. In fact, fat people are also divided into many situations. On the whole, if the waist can be collected or the waist is beautiful, the fat person will make a bigger sack shape even worse.

For fat people, we first need to analyze the difference between the size of the net body and the size of her girth, and see if she is suitable for the waist style. If the chest size is larger than the waist size, 10 centimeters or more can be taken back. In this case, we can add the chest size to 2-3 centimeters and take 6 centimeters at the waist circumference, so that the waist circumference of the finished product is about 6 centimeters larger than the waist circumference of the net body. The waist and abdominal fleshy will not be exposed, and the overall effect will be more beautiful because of the waist.

What if the size of the chest circumference and waist circumference is only 6-8 centimeters? What should I do?

for this type of body, we can consider this. The size of the chest is 2 centimeters larger than that of the net body. The waist is only 4 inches away from the waist, and the waist width is about 4 centimeters larger than the chest width. So the whole waist size is about 5 centimeters larger than the net size, and the waist is still felt on the whole body.

We know that fat people usually have bigger abdomen, and then their waist is concave. After adjusting the size, we do not make the belly fat and the waist feel the waist. It increases the overall aesthetic feeling of the customers.

In production practice, we can also make the size of the waist of the front and rear pieces different according to the net size of the customers, so as to achieve the desired effect.

talk about the size and design of the hem.

A lot of craftsmen do not pay much attention to the size design of the hem. Xiao Bian has seen many craftsmen design the size of the hem generally when they are designing the size of the bust, regardless of the specific size of the net body of the customer's hem.

The general size of the store is measured only by the size of the hips, but it does not take into account that the length of the garment (position of the hem) that we need is not at the hip line, and the craftsmen do not have the experience to accurately calculate the net size of the hem according to the net size of the hips, so that the concept of the size of the hem is obscured.

A lot of craftsmen thought that the size of the hem was too simple to pay much attention to, but Xiao Bian felt that it was not too easy to take lightly. Because the hem was one of the most important circumference of a sweater together with waistline and chest circumference, it was also the first turn we knitted a sweater.

Xiaobian suggested that when measuring the volume, the circumference of the garment should be measured at the lower cycloid where the garment length is located. While the craftsmen design the size of the hem, they should not only respect the measured size of the hem, but also coordinate with the waist circumference and chest circumference, and make appropriate adjustments according to the different fabric of the hem.

repeat the design of shoulder size. Most of the craftsmen know that the actual shoulder width should be reduced by 1.5-3 cm when doing the process. This is because we all know that the influence of shoulder width due to the pulling force of sleeves in the production and wearing process and the influence of the size of the rear collar are easy to widen.

As for how much we need to reduce, we should also consider the organizational structure of style and grey cloth.

For example, the bubble sleeve should be reduced by about 5 centimeters, and the Siping organization should be reduced a little more than the flat pin.

Besides, the shoulder width should be adjusted according to the size of the chest circumference.

finally talk about sleeve size (sleeve size) size and design.

For this size, many craftsmen do not attach much importance to it. Generally, according to the size of the bust, many shop orders do not always measure the size of the sleeves.

Personally, I think this is not very accurate.

Although the thickness of the human arm is proportional to the size of the bust, there is not an accurate formula to calculate the thickness of the arm according to the size of the bust. Since we are measuring the volume, why not measure the exact size of the sleeves? As for the size of the sleeves and the size of the body, if the exact size of the net is measured, it is still very good to grasp it. Generally speaking, 1 to 2 centimeters can be added on the basis of the net sleeves and strong sleeves. When added to the 3-4 centimeter, it will be more relaxed, and a thin cotton sweater can be worn inside.

For young women who like to wear tight skinny bodies, they can design 0 to 2 centimeters smaller than their net sleeves.