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    British Men Wear Custom Suits.

    2013/11/25 15:30:00 31

    Professional CustomizationUpper ClassTailoring

    < p > the custom department under the luxury retail flagship London Harold department store is busy recruiting.

    "Clothing customization is becoming more and more popular now," Jason Broderick, head of Menswear, said.

    This trend, which can not be ignored, made customization a favorite cake in the industry.

    < /p >


    < p > in addition to the old "a href=" http://www.91se91.com/ "professional customization" /a "brand" Bourriau Ni "(Brioni), Zegna (Ermenegildo Zegna) and Tom Ford (Tom Ford), Italy men's wear brand Isaia and tie up high-end men's wear brand Ford has just joined.

    "They joined the company last year to provide more customized services for London consumers."

    Broderick said.

    < /p >


    < p > < strong > the details and personalities in customization are < /strong > /p >


    < p > Isaia draws on the characteristics of Naples style and joins modern elements to introduce the mineral colored suits with window shaped squares and fine stripes.

    The most famous ones are three suit suits (2535 pounds) and double row six buckles.

    Stefano Ricci conveys a luxurious elegance with light colored silk or wool.

    Just think about the role of actor Marcello Mastroianni in the movie 8&frac12; yes, that's the feeling.

    < /p >


    P > custom tailoring has become one of the most exciting areas of men's wear.

    The customization idea beyond the existing mode can better satisfy the personalized needs of customers.

    People may sneer at it and call it "the exclusive of the poor".

    But tailor-made does have a huge advantage: speed.

    With the machine, a custom suit can be made in four weeks.

    < /p >


    < p > the wool mill directly under Zegna produces 2 million meters long cloth every year.

    In the latest 30 kinds of customized fabrics, silk wool or linen wool blend is popular because of its extremely soft material.

    It is worth mentioning that the edges of these fabrics are woven with the customer's name and customization time, which of course is part of the customized service.

    < /p >


    This year, the classic brand Hugo Boss from Germany has launched a new Boss customization program in London's most fashionable P Bond Street store.

    Among them, the use of iPad creatively realized customized service pipelining.

    Through iPad, customer information can be sent directly to the company headquarters cutting center in Germany.

    < /p >


    < p > in the production of fitting, grid paper is used as an auxiliary tool to improve accuracy, making the "tailor-made" become worthy of the name.

    The first fitting can be completed in 1 to 1.5 hours.

    Of course, if there is a special need, the shortest step can be completed in 30 minutes.

    On the second fitting, Boss's tailor visits the customer directly.

    Under normal circumstances, in four to six weeks, the production of finished garments has been completed.

    < /p >


    < p > of course, customers can also choose more flexible and low tech production methods, and enjoy the right of choice of cloth, lining and buttons.

    In addition, if you want to achieve a more handsome dress effect, some new improved fabrics from Italy factory will be a good choice.

    For example, the Tasmanian of Italy brand Loro Piana is a blend of Merino cashmere with excellent breathability and heat resistance.

    < /p >


    At the same time, Clive Darby, the creator and creative director of the brand Rake, opened a new store in Duke Street (Duke Street) in April this year. P

    As one of the popular brand myths in Britannia today, the cutting of arms and shoulders at the Rake's design perfectly reflects the traditional style of Saville street, the world's Best Western hand sewn sanctuary.

    Rake's cloth book is full of bold silk and linen blended fabrics and a more typical customized fabric -- cloth.

    During the fitting process, customers who wear clothes need to measure 10 to 16 different parts.

    In four to six weeks, the ready-made garments will be produced directly from the India factory.

    < /p >


    < p > < strong > ubiquitous customization < /strong > < /p >.


    < p > Redchurch Street in Eastern London brings together a lot of cutting-edge fashion, so it doesn't look like a high-end custom made place.

    However, in the fashionable shop of Casely-Hayford, there is a hole in the sky.

    The basement is hung with six good suit patterns (1250 pounds), all using dark grey herringbone material.

    Its design combines the current fashion style and classical tailoring style, attracting large customers including the male Michael Fassbender named "X" and Robert Downey Jr, the iron man.

    Joe Casely-Hayford, the boss of the "father and son shop", has been in the industry for 25 years, and has been the creative director of the royal family chartered brand Gieves&Hawkes in 4 years.

    "We are indeed a tide card, but father's experience is also a big selling point."

    His 26 year old son, Charlie, added: "it is our goal to modernize and further update the elements of Saville street."

    < /p >


    < p > Casely-Hayford has set up 70 size variables, 40 sets of customized solutions, and a series of well chosen fabrics.

    "Our partners are in addition to some well-known factories," said Joe. "There are also top fabric suppliers like Ariston in Naples and Harrisons in Edinburgh.

    You know, small factories always bring something different. "

    < /p >


    "P" is unique. In London, "a href=" http://www.91se91.com/news/index_q.asp "upper class" /a ", custom garments occupy 80% of the tailoring business in just three years.

    Adrien Sauvage, the founder and designer of the brand, is trying to explain the mystery: "as a popular customer, you can't rush into all the shops in Bond Street to ask for a change of lapel style, or to alter the size of shoulder width slightly, let alone try to specify the materials for clothes and clothes.

    On the contrary, customization provides the possibility for all this.

    < /p >


    < p > when I went shopping, I ran into a James Lavelle from the music industry.

    He just picked up a low-key black mural style wool suit.

    He liked this style very much, so he ordered the same black and white twill fabric on the spot.

    These two fabrics are the darling of the 2013 spring summer series.

    "Our Volkswagen series will create different ambience in every season," explains Sauvage. He refers to the details of surface treatment and fabric. These details are inspiration, attractive and to some extent shape the brand.

    Customers can use these templates as material banks to get what they want.

    It reminds me of the 30s Salon Exhibition for women.

    At that time, customers' orders would be accompanied by personal preferences, such as "I hope this dress is sleeveless and blue and blue, otherwise I will not pay."

    < /p >


    < p > < strong > write down the legend of Saville Street < /strong > /p >


    < p > Saville street, even as the cradle of custom clothes, is not entirely in the front line of clothing customization.

    The reputation of Saville Street's custom brand Chester Barrie was founded in 70s twentieth Century. It inherited the style of Saville street very well, and then injected this brand's value appeal into mechanized production to produce a series of popular series suits.

    With the help of the superb modern technology, Chester Barrie has been able to create a set of clear outline and fine surface treatment.

    < /p >


    < p > now, the brand begins to take the legendary Edward Sexton route.

    Edward Sexton is a famous tailor on Saville street, and the chief tailor and business partner of the most avant-garde Tommy Nutter in the street. He makes Saville's custom clothes so sexy and fashionable on everyone.

    Sexton chose a balance between the imposing Volkswagen series (695 pounds) and the custom series (1850 pounds) suit, and neutralized a more moderate series.

    The technique is characterized by bold square shoulders and leaf like lapel. As for clothing rules, the length of shoulders, waist and long jacket is an ingenious balance based on that central button.

    Sexton draws on this guideline and uses it to break through the customization bottleneck of Chester Barrie.

    < /p >


    < p > go 10 more shops, and come to the male fashion flagship store on the Saville street of British fashion Godfather Alexander McQueen.

    This shop was opened last year, and, incidentally, it was also the starting point of his career.

    In addition to the existing popular series suite, clothing customization service has been started here since April.

    < /p >


    < p > Limited Edition McQueen suit has many models to choose from.

    One of the things that attracted me most was the three piece of 60s wind, the pale gray blue, which belonged to the spring series.

    This dress provides 25 different fabrics for the selection, apart from the traditional herringbone, and the fine striped cloth and Prince Welsh's wind. Each of them can make a beautiful appearance for the customer.

    In this store, custom made garments from Italy take 8 weeks to produce. The price of a set of two suits is 1660 pounds, which is about 30% higher than that of the Volkswagen series.

    < /p >


    < p > now, the "a href=" http://www.91se91.com/news/index_s.asp "clipping" in tailored garments, clipping less than /a, vitality and temperament makes it really worthy of the price tag.

    Designers are no longer confined to starting from a blank sheet of paper, but starting a new round of creative thinking.

    They integrate all the important elements, details and themes, select the most favorite elements from them, and combine them into a tailored garment.

    < /p >

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