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The Refinement Of A Fashion Luxury Buyer.

2014/3/31 8:54:00 11

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in the fashion industry, < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_f.asp" > Fashion < /a > buyers can not simply be understood as "buy goods" or "procurement" role.

In fact, as one of the high salary jobs in the industry, the work of a buyer is directly related to the style and performance of a brand. You can understand this: This is a job with great pressure but a great sense of accomplishment.

rush to fashion week, see show, go to Showroom, trade show to see the order, these are just part of the buyer's work process, after goods pportation, warehousing, shelves, until sales are finished, buyers should closely follow up.

Many times, whether a commodity can be sold or even how much it can be designed and produced, buyers are involved in it.

because in the fashion industry, buyer's work is widely regarded as fashionable and bright, but from a workplace perspective, this position needs rational attitude and professional standpoint, including a lot of boring figures.

Historical sales report is a data that they must study regularly. It is an important reference for buyers to calculate the matching ratio in the next season's new product selection.

They also need to monitor the current inventory and sales data in real time, so as to adjust the shelves and display of goods and promote product sales.

"basically I can see at a glance whether a product will become a best seller."

Wu Shenghui, a buyer of Marc Jacobs in China, said that the sales data of a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > clothing "/a" had been analyzed for a long time. Even when she was shopping, she often felt puzzled. "You can see that a target=" _blank "in the shop is" first "or" good ", but the occupational disease of the buyer will let us directly see its cost structure or predict its sales situation.

in the buyer's work, the assurance of aesthetics and fashion is also important as logical thinking ability.

They really need to be sensitive to fashion in order to buy a lot of good clothes, but more importantly, they need to find ways to sell the goods they buy.

100% of the sales, which is the ultimate goal of the buyer's work.

Wu Shenghui was still attending the fashion week in New York not long ago, where she confirmed with her headquarters colleagues the selection of products for the autumn and winter products of Marc Jacobs China in 2014.

But now, she has turned her attention back to the purchase of new products in the spring and summer 2014.

The first thing she has to do every morning is to confirm the logistics status of different batches of goods, so as to ensure that they can arrive at the store on time.

At the same time, she has to allocate some energy to pay attention to the normal sales in the early spring of 2014, and to follow up the order in autumn and winter in 2014.

For Wu Shenghui, every quarter of the product is a cycle, and she usually falls into two or three cycles at the same time, dealing with different aspects of affairs.

this is the normal work of a buyer.

Because they are always dealing with all aspects of fashion circulation, they must be familiar with all aspects of running a fashion brand, so they often get the most comprehensive exercise. From the experience of several buyers interviewed in this issue, this post is more like a brand manager's starting point.

A, the professional direction of fashion buyers is /p >

roughly divided, the direction of the buyer's entry can be divided into two categories: one is for multi brand retailers, the other is for buyer shops, the other is for internal brands.

The biggest difference between the two is the selection of the source of goods, but the work content and requirements are generally similar, so job hopping is not difficult.

in addition, in larger companies, buyers will also be subdivided into women's clothing buyers, men's wear buyers, < a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > shoes, /a buyers, accessories buyers and so on.

buyer for buyer shop /p >

P brand buyers are often referred to as "buyer shops", whose goods are mainly sourced from buyers by brands.

Buyers decide what to buy, what to buy and how much to buy, so their choice directly determines the style of a buyer's shop.

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compared with the buyers inside the brand, buyers of buyer shops are more active in fashion week because they need to contact a large number of brands. Besides the choice of styles, they need to consider the relationship between different brands more.

"before we start buying goods, we will make a budget report based on the performance of each brand in the store and their ROI, including buying, buying and buying.

We will evaluate the performance of each brand in the existing retail space, so as to decide where they will be placed in the new season, and whether space will increase or decrease.

Sarah Rutson, the fashion director of Lane Crawford, describes the work of Lian Crawford's buyer.

when browsing and researching many brands, buyers of buyers will pay more attention to the overall trend of fashion, so as to clarify the style of shops.

"You can't let customers see the same style every time they come.

So if we find that something is what every household is doing when we look at the goods, we will conclude some popular trends to help buy goods.

< a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > designer < /a > brand integration shop BNC Mint glutinous rice onion director of operations Ceng Siyu said.

is the buyer of brand internal work .

buyers who serve a single brand usually work in accordance with the sales area. They will gather together during the fashion week to study the new season's products and discuss with them the details of the order, including the order quantity of different styles, colors and sizes.

in China, some luxury brand buyers even need to make different purchasing strategies according to different stores, and then summarize them to headquarters. This requires buyers to pay more attention to the operation of each store.

"Our brand now requires a single store to buy goods, so buyers will keep track of the sales data of each store for a long time.

They are familiar with the situation of each store and distribute different items according to the location of the store and the number of old customers.

Zhang Han, HR manager of a luxury brand in Greater China, said.

different companies, market areas and brand internal processes will lead to differences in buyer's responsibilities.

In most cases, the buyer's work is more focused on the management of goods, but they may also participate in the design and product management, or formulate price strategies.

in some fast fashion brands, the buyer's work is more closely related to the design team.

Especially for some companies with weak design ability, buyers need to buy samples or styles to designers, such as design companies, suppliers and other brands, and then become their own products after the designer is restructured.

while in other brands, the responsibilities of buyers will cover similar product planning.

They need to make a long-term analysis of the sales data, fashion trends and the product structure of the competitive brand, so as to design the product structure for the season.

"You can understand that digging holes for designers, telling them to have clothes, trousers and blouses, how many styles each category needs, and the pricing and cost range of these styles."

Li Zhenhua said.

He is the marketing director of designer brand BABYGHOST, and also serves as a buyer for designers.

Prior to that, he had done product planning in Metersbonwe.

B the main work of the buyer is /p >

Fashion Week and order /p >

this is the beginning of a buyer's exposure to new season goods.

Before going to fashion week, buyers will first analyze the sales data of the previous season or more, and formulate the procurement strategy and overall budget for the new season.

buyers will spend most of their energy on the static exhibition of Showroom and trade show. T show now more to meet the needs of the media. They will study the style, material, color and pricing elements of the new sample clothing, and make a preliminary purchase plan according to the established purchasing strategy and budget.

After the fashion week, the buyer will send the confirmed order information to the brand side.

data analysis

when we invited the buyers of Sarah Rutson, Wu Shenghui, Ceng Siyu and Li Zhenhua to talk about their working scenes, they all mentioned the Excel table unanimously, which they had to face frequently, and they calculated and analyzed the data.

in order to get the most suitable products and complete the quarterly order at the best rate of sale, the analysis of budget, sales and inventory data runs through the buyer's work.

During regular sales hours, buyers need at least weekly data updates from sales and operations departments, timely identification of poorly sold products, adjusting their display, or contacting marketing departments to develop promotional programs to improve sales of these products.

In addition, they need to pay close attention to the price, style and other data of competitive brands in time to study suitable competition strategies.

shop training

buyers are the ones who know best why stores sell these goods. They first met with goods in fashion week, and communicated with designers to understand the story behind each product, and at the same time, they had more accurate sales forecasts for goods.

Therefore, when the goods arrive at the store, the salesperson who sells to the customer needs to get the training of the buyer, so that they can know the information about the goods as far as possible, so as to better introduce and promote sales to the customers.

Besides, buyers will train Chen Li, in addition to helping better convey the design language, these buyers who know a lot about the sales data of goods can also guide Chen Li to combine the related products more appropriately.

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C becomes the trait that buyers need to have: /strong > /p >

logical analysis ability .

this is the most emphasized ability.

"Buyers are not doing things by feeling at all. Many laws of buying goods can only be obtained after analyzing past sales rules.

They have a very rational side and must be sensitive to numbers. "

Ceng Siyu said.

And to become an excellent buyer, it is not only to control a lot of boring data statistics and analysis work, but also to quickly grope out the rules and apply it to the whole purchase process.

sensitivity to fashion .

as a practitioner of fashion industry, love and sensitivity to fashion are also essential qualities of buyers.

"Usually when brand and fashion retailers recruit buyers, they will observe the candidates' dress in the interview and chat with them about the fashion styles they like, and see whether they are consistent in their tastes."

Gong Yingchun, a luxury industry consultant at Kelly Services, said that in the fashion industry, buyers should be the most dressed people.

communication ability /p >

buyers have business connections with almost all departments within the brand or retailer.

They have to communicate with the finance department in budgeting and pricing, share data and customer feedback with the sales department, coordinate with the operations department in the management of goods, discuss fabrics with designers, and focus on suppliers and logistics.

In communicating with all aspects, you must keep clear and clear intention.

"you need to be able to clearly figure out why it can be done, but that's not the case; you have to talk freely with the supply brand, and you have to maintain good communication with all parties regardless of whether the business is good or bad."

Sarah Rutson believes that the importance of this ability is even more obvious because buyers of buyers shop to communicate with more brands.

time management ability /p >

Less than P, buyers rarely encounter the need to manage only one season of goods.

Often, they are monitoring the sales figures for the season and looking for the right products for the next season, while exploring the trend of the third quarter.

You need to be able to quickly switch from the work of different season products, including garments of different seasons, of course, to complete the work of each line in the most efficient way.

"With the quarterly cycle, the importance of different things will change. You need to understand what is most important."

Wu Shenghui said.

the possibility of career development of buyers is less than /strong > /p >

in the fashion industry, buyers with logical thinking, creativity and business management skills have always been a higher paid position.

According to Zhang's estimate, a brand buyer can earn about 75% of his salary.

these requirements for comprehensive ability and the wide range of business involved in their work also bring more imagination to career development for buyers.

"buyer is a good starting point.

The commodities they directly deal with are the core of the whole brand management, and they will have close cooperation with retail, operation, display, training and other departments, so there will not be too many obstacles to the management positions such as brand managers and general managers who are responsible for the overall business.

Gong Yingchun said.

Marie Honda, the brand leader of P H&M group COS, has been a buyer for H&M for 7 years.

In an interview before, she talked about the impact of this buyer's experience on her career development. "I learned almost everything at that time.

For example, quantity a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > cloth < /a > check labels, contact with suppliers, cut clothes, and make cloth use longer, these are all things that I will use now in all levels of work.

Especially when I talk to the staff about the details of the product, they are all used. "

The experience of P, Marie Honda is the future that buyers can see, but the premise is that you must first mature in the field of buyers.

according to Gong Yingchun's observation, a mature buyer needs to work in this field for 5 to 6 years at least, and to be senior, it will take more than 8 years.

"Usually under such qualifications, they may have the ability to choose goods independently, and they have relatively complete experience in buying goods, selecting money and distributing goods."