Textual Research On Material And Structure Of Clogs
Clogs are a kind of toothed shoes. The teeth are installed at the bottom of the shoe bottom, and the front and rear one are upright, and are used for traveling. The sole is equipped with teeth for walking convenience, because the ancient road is rough and uneven, with double teeth, it can reduce the contact between the sole and the road surface, and it will appear stable and convenient when walking. Clogs are usually made of wood. Compared with the sole sole, the wood teeth are more durable and can replace the wood teeth, so they are especially suitable for traveling. Because of the double teeth, the height of the sole has increased, and it is not easy to slip on the wet mud or the moss covered mountain road. Han Shi Tour "anxious articles", "crow" wins. Tang Yan Shi Gu notes: "clogs, wood for the two teeth, so practice mud." This is the shoe.
In all kinds of shoes, the structure of the cages is very special. It usually consists of three parts: one is the bottom plate, which is the foundation of the clogs. Usually it is made of wood, and is used as sole. There are several holes in drill holes to tie the rope. The two is the rope belt, known as the "department", the nameless song of the Southern Dynasty, "the song of the song": "the Yellow mulberry stem and the caterpillar pads, the central part is a two headed system." It refers to the rope on the cages. The three is the clogs, which are all mounted under the wooden flat. The beginning is flat, tetragonal and cylindrical, and the height is between 6-8 cm. The gear teeth are not identical: the simple ones are fixed with iron nails, while the researchers are connected by wooden tenons. The concrete methods can be divided into two kinds: one is the open hole with a bright tenon, which is chiseled on the wooden flat when it is made, and the wooden tenon on the upper part of the upper part of the gear is assembled through the bottom plate, and then the bamboo nail or the iron nail is fixed from the side. In contrast, there is a way of linking: when the hole is opened, the bottom plate is not chiseled to make the dowel. Because there is no tenon on the surface, it is deliberately called "Yin Mao" (Figure 1). "Jin Shu five row Zhi" is recorded in this situation: "old cages, teeth are tattoo, known as" dew Mao ". Tai Yuan suddenly failed to see the name, "Yin Mao". Later, yueyuezhi's rebellion occurred. People attached the hidden tenon to the chaos.
The material for making clogs is mainly wood, so it is called "clog". There is a certain standard of wood used, and the texture is strong and tough. The common people have mulberry clogs, made of mulberry wood, such as "South Qi Book auspicious" "(Shi Zhu) in Xiangyang, dreaming of Sang Chai line," Tai Chi Dian stage. "There are wooden clogs, made of wood, such as the southern part of the wood." Both dry and tough can not be rationale. Xia Yue Na can be steamed wet gas. There are clogs, made of sand and wood. "The dream of Red Mansions" Tenth times: "this is a complete set of me, a pair of Tong clogs, only to wear, under the canopy." In addition to wood, there were ancient Silk clogs, instead of rope systems. Han Liu Xi's "Shiming and releasing clothes": "Silk clogs are made of silk, such as those that are not, but those who do not want to practice the mud. They can also walk in mud and ride in the wind." They also have leather clogs, leather or wood. For example, the "Bibliographic examination four generation examination": "foot leather shoes, ears hanging gold." There are jade clogs and jade. "The biography of Wen Hui prince in the South Qi": "when there was a pilgrimage to the ancient tomb in Xiangyang, it was said that the cloud was the tomb of the king of Chu, and it was a great treasure: Jade clog, Yuping wind, bamboo book and green silk." There are also iron clogs, with copper and iron as the base, and iron nails under. "Taiping Yulan" volume 698 cited "Jin Shu": "Shi Le hit Liu Yao, so that people with iron clogs to nail the city." This kind of iron crock is often used by warriors for climbing. The Armored Warriors painted in the murals of tomb twelfth at the Dong Gou, Ji'an, Jilin, are wearing iron clogs. Unlike clogs, the bottom of the iron clogs is not peg. The iron cages were also found in archaeological excavations, such as the tomb of Gao Guli in Ji'an, Jilin. It was made of bronze pegs. The surface was gilded, the edges folded, and there were small holes for rope wear. The bottom was riveted with square column gilded copper nails. Later generations call it "spikes". Qing Zhao wing "Yu Yu series": "the ancients used rain to use clogs, and today's popular use of spikes between Jiangsu and Zhejiang."
The emergence of cages in China has existed for thousands of years. In 1987, archaeologists discovered two remnants of clogs at the site of the late Neolithic Age in Ningbo, Zhejiang. They were all worn on the left foot, slightly in shape and narrow in front. One of them is flat, with five holes and a hole in the head. There are two holes in the middle and heel, and two holes are excavated with the same groove width and diameter. The purpose is to insert the rope into the slot after passing through the hole, so as to make the surface smooth. When excavated, the rope was rotten and the clogs were not seen. The other is round head square, with six holes and two holes between heels. According to research, these two pieces of clogs have a history of more than four thousand years and are relics of Liangzhu culture.
During the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period, people wearing cages became increasingly common. Confucius was said to have passed through clogs. "Taiping Yulan" volume 698 quoted the "Analects of Confucius implicit meaning": "Confucius to CAI, settled in the guest house, at night, Confucius took a clot, and the pirates placed in the stolen home. Confucius clogs a length of four inches, different from mortals. It is said that Confucius traveled around the country and came to Cai Guo to stay in the guest house. According to the custom at that time, shoes can not be penetrated into the room, only at the door, did not want to come up on the second day, clogs disappeared, it was stolen in the middle of the night. Confucius was caged for "different from human beings" and was stolen. The actual situation is not necessarily so. It is estimated that people are respected by Confucius, so they are clogging the clog as a treasure. There is a record in Jin Shu five row Zhi, which refers to the whereabouts of Confucius's cages: "Hui emperor Yuan Kang five years leap month, Geng Yin, Arsenal fire. Zhang Huayi was in a mess. He wanted to live and fight. Wang Mang's head, Confucius's cages, Han Gao Zu's broken white snake swords and two million person equipment were all used for a while. It can be seen that before the fire was burned, Confucius's clogs were regarded as "exotic treasures" in the library.
In the Song Dynasty Liu Jingshu's "Yi Yuan" in the Southern Song Dynasty, there was also a story related to clogs: in more than 600 BC, Jin Wen Gong was expelled from his palace by his father, and had no way to go. He had been exiled in Wei, Di, Qi, Cao, song, Qin and Chu for nineteen years. In order to thank the courtiers who followed him for many years, Jin Wen Gong gave a reward to all the people around him. He only forgot the loyal servant Jie who had cut off his leg meat for the sake of Jin Wen Gong's hunger. When he remembered, he pushed his mother into hiding in Mian mountain. Wen Gong was so sorry that he took the man to seek his visit. Unexpectedly, the meson pushed away and disappeared. Jin Wen Gong had no choice but to let people burn the mountain and try to force him out. But he pushed his old mother tightly to a willow tree and was burned alive by fire. Wen Gong looked sad. He cut down the trees that had not been burned by tears. He made a pair of clogs and wore them at his feet. Whenever we recall the work done by the meson to cut the brachial work, we will caress and mourn: "sorrow is enough!"
Men and women also wore clogs in the Han Dynasty. In the capital of Eastern Han Dynasty, there was a custom in Luoyang: brides get married. There must be clogs in dowry. According to Ying Shao's "customs and general righteousness", "the elderly in Beijing are all clogs. Women were first married to lacquer painting, and multicolored. This lacquer painting clog has been excavated in the tomb of Zhu Yun and his wife and concubines in the suburb of Soochow, Ma'anshan, Anhui. The body is small and delicate, with three smaller holes on the chisel, painted by the body, and two wooden teeth at the bottom of the crock, which are the funerary objects for Zhu's wife and concubines.
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The period of Wei, Jin, southern and Northern Dynasties was the prevailing period of clogs. During this period, clogs were used not only for travel but also for homes. For example, "Shin said new words and wrath donation", the king of Jin said that the temperament was impatient, and when he chopped at the table with chopsticks, he broke his anger and threw the eggs round. This is an example of Jin people's household cages. In Jin Shu Xie an biography, there are also records in this respect: "(Xie)" Xuan "is broken, but there is a post book to (Xie) Fang Fang to go to the chess game. When he read the book, he put it on the bed. The guest asked Xu Dayun, "the children have broken the thief." In the meantime, when we have a house, we are very happy. It's so true. He said that during the battle of Fei Shui, Xie An, the Prime Minister of the Eastern Jin Dynasty, was responsible for the extradition of most of the governor, commanding the war, so that his nephew Xie Xuan could meet the enemy's forces, but he played chess with him at his place. There was a forward post book sent to report the news of his nephew's victory. Xie An remained unmoved, playing chess with his chess friends, showing a dignified and dignified manner. Until the end of the chess game, he returned to his room and could not restrain his excitement. When he passed the threshold, he forgot to raise his foot, so that he could break the tooth. This is also an example of Jin people's home wear.
The shape of clogs during this period is also changing. For example, Jin Gan Bao, "search for God", said: "for the first time, the woman has a round head and a male square head. In Taikang, the women are all square headed cages, the same as men.
There are no double teeth and flat bottom, which is also a feature of clogs in this period. This kind of clogs are mostly used for military purposes. For example, "Jin Shu Xuan Di Ji": "many tribulus in Guanzhong, the emperor made the sergeant two thousand people go forward with soft material wooden clogs, and the Tribulus was aware of the clogs, and then entered the horse step." More than two thousand pioneers wore a pair of wooden clogs and walked on thorny thorns. As their footsteps opened, all the Tribulus were stabbed at the bottom of the pits, and the infantry and cavalry behind them were on their feet.
As for the gear teeth, there are many variations besides those mentioned above. For example, Yan's family motto says, "when the Liang Dynasty was at its height, you would never visit your children. All of them smoked and shaved their faces. They used to paint the long eaves cart, and follow the high gear. This is the crest of the posterior teeth which is higher than the front teeth, similar to the high-heeled shoes worn by modern women. Xie An's grandnephew and great poet Xie Lingyun created a kind of clog which is also very distinctive. Its double teeth can be assembled and disassembled. It is suitable for mountaineering: when the mountain goes up, the front teeth are removed, only the back teeth are used; the downhill is dismantled, and the front teeth are used to keep the human body in balance. See "Song biography of Xie Lingyun": "(Ling Yun) to find mountains and mountains, will create a quiet and steep, rock Zhang thousand, do not spare. He often goes to the woods and goes to the front teeth and goes down to the back teeth. Later, it is called "Xie Gong Cun", or "mountaineering clogs". There is another kind of clogs, which are made of wood, and even the upper is made of wood and replaced by rope. Such as "Song Shu Wu Di Ji Ji" said: "(Wu Di) sex is very simple, often even with tooth clogs, good to Humen." (21) this kind of clogs has also been found in archaeological excavations. For example, a pair of unearthed tombs at Wu twenty-first, Hubei esteel, is made of lacquer wood for deep brown sauce. The transverse teeth of the clogs are flat, with a length of 26.7 cm, a width of 9.4 cm and a height of 10.4 cm. The two pairs of clogs excavated from the tombs at Nanchang, Jiangxi are similar to those of the others, except that the cages are slightly smaller and are inverted trapezoid. One of the lower part of a pair of clogs is also fastened with iron nails to reduce the wear degree of the gear teeth. 4 teeth are used for front teeth, and 3 for the back teeth. The whole pair of clogs is 25 centimeters, and the teeth are 6 centimeters high (Fig. six).
Men in the Tang Dynasty advocated wearing boots, and traveling for more boots. Clogging is only worn at home. With the extensive development of foreign cultural exchanges, this kind of wooden clog has also been spread abroad, and the custom of clogging in Japan and Southeast Asian countries is imported from China. The author saw a huge embroidery "Sakyamuni Tathagata statement" in the National Museum of Nara National Museum, which was painted by people in the Tang Dynasty. It is worth noting that this type of coffer is very similar to the popular clogs in Modern Japan, and obviously has an impact on them. Besides men, women in the Tang Dynasty also had habit of wearing clogs, especially in Jiangnan women. In Li Bai's poem "the woman on the winding rock", there are "a pair of golden teeth clogs, two feet white as frost" singing, and Qing Wang Qizhu quoted "Nan Yue Zhi": "Jun An county woman Zhao Yu, with the gold box (set) teeth clogs." It shows that the shape of the cages is exquisite and the gear teeth are also decorated. Li Bai's other poem "Yue Nu Ci" also talked about the situation of women's cages. There is a saying in the poem: "feet like frost and no head of the head." The "hoof socks" is a pair of socks that match the clogs. When making, the big toe is separated from the other four toes to form a shape to fasten the rope system on the clogs. It can be seen from Li Bai's poems that clog was worn at that time, both socks and barefoot could be worn.
After the Song Dynasty, Han women did not wear clogs because they advocated feet binding. Men are still dressed, but mostly used as rain shoes. Song Zhang RYI Yi Er Ji: "Dongpo is in the ear, no book can be read, Liu Zi family has Liu Wen volume book, do all day play recitation, one day rain, borrow clogs and return." (24) it was Su Dongpo who came back from the rain in the rain. The figure of the Song Dynasty in clogs is depicted in the Song Dynasty "return to the past" (Fig. seven). In the Ming and Qing Dynasties, clogs were called "mud clogs" and also focused on the use of clogs. For example, the twenty-fifth time of "Xing Shi Yin yuan Zhuan": "Di yuan had an umbrella outside and wore mud clogs."
During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the women in Guangdong and Fujian did not catch up with this practice, and they were still sky and foot. Because of the relatively hot climate in the area, women and men alike are dressed in clogs on sunny days or rainy days. Ming Xie Zhao's "five miscellaneous Zu" notes: "now, I am in Fujian, Xinghua, Zhangquan, spring three counties, with cages as a", "wash feet", that is, regardless of the average men and women are all the same. When the female cages are painted, they will be the faucets, and they will be in the house all the time. The image of clogs in this period is depicted in Wang's "San Cai Hui Hui" (Fig. eight).
In the Qing Dynasty, the cages worn by men and women in their daily homes were mostly without clogs. The producers in Chaozhou, Guangdong were the top quality products, made of wood, containing tiny incense, which could remove dirty air. There are also surfaces painted on clogs, or wrapped in embroidered silk and leather, which are commonly seen in women's cages. For example, Qu Dajun's new Guangdong dialect notes: "today, there are many red leather clogs in Guangdong. Literati and officialdom are still caged. When bathing and enjoying cool weather, it will be scattered and full. The name is "scattered cages" and the scattered cages should be made from the dragged leather made in Chaozhou, or the wooden wood. The new club is still decorated with lacquer, while Dongguan is still embroidered with flowers. The toothless clogs are close to modern slippers.
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