It Is Difficult To Make Profits. Will "High Heat" Come Down?

In order to maintain the authority and status of "Haute Couture", the authentication procedure of "Haute Couture" is very tedious, and the conditions are also specific and harsh. For example, the brand has its own studio in Paris and employs at least 20 employees to participate in the two fashion releases of the Fashion Association every year. It is illegal to claim to be "Haute Couture" without authentication.

But in China, although no designer calls his work "Haute Couture", many designers call their works "advanced customization", which coincides with the Chinese translation of "Haute Couture".

In the past more than 10 years, the concept of "advanced customization" has rarely been known in China. In Beijing, there are thousands of Advanced Custom Brands or studios, of which Guo Pei and her rose mill have been well known for many years in the field, also invited to Paris high fashion week, Marco and "useless" brand for Peng Liyuan, Shanghai designer Lu Kun and his "mirror" studio favored by Paris Hilton, and the recent fashion show in China International Fashion Week, Wang Peiyi who have designed wedding dresses for movie star Yang Mi and his Alex Wang custom studio.

Guo Pei explains China's concept of advanced custom fashion: "Gao Ding" in China, the concept is still very vague now, there is no definition, more advanced than the general tailor. She believes that "Gao Ding" fashion is very common and confusing in China. There is no industry standard management and no Garment Association. The China clothing association has discussed the criteria for "setting high", but even the names are hard to ascertain.

Due to the lack of official standards and definitions, the concept of private ordering and advanced customization is often confused. Chinese media are not stingy with the name of "advanced custom designer" when reporting. The high priced and high-end customer groups of "Gao Ding" clothing are also yearned for by many designers, leading to no threshold for China's advanced custom fashions. Some students and designers who have just graduated from the University also use "advanced customization" to attract customers. A junior student at Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology has made advanced customization one of the projects of his own studio.

Another young designer, Ryan Wang, who graduated this year and founded RyANWAG, is also planning high customization. He explained that the reason why he wanted to make advanced customization is that the original design is now overwhelming. If we want to highlight it, we must go to the top grade to find a higher level customer base. He admits that it takes a long time to make "high" and "step by step". But he feels that he has just graduated from high school as "courage."

In the eyes of Chinese designer Lu Kun, in addition to those harsh standards, advanced customization also includes the value and service behind the brand. Moreover, the fabric of advanced customization should be produced by special manufacturers, which are hard for beginners to come into contact with.

Guo Pei said, do "Gao Ding". Designer It is necessary to have professional design ability, especially to understand technology and materials. Only in ten years can we have a preliminary understanding. "Gao Ding" technology is not to make the planner and tailor to do it. The designer himself must know the texture, cutting, handwork, decoration and so on. Technology In 5 years, it will be a good tailor, and the "Gao Ding" planner should be at least 5 years. After 28 years of walking, she laughs and says that she has only recently made a step toward "Gao Ding". Lu Kun, who has been designing clothing for more than 10 years, also modesty claims that he is "not qualified" to do "Gao Ding" and has been studying.

Some Chinese young designers who want to or claim to be making "high definition" are bringing new ideas to this type of fashion. Judy graduated from University of the Arts in London and worked as an Hardy consultant in Hardy, a leading British menswear brand. She is currently a consultant in China market for the brand. Most Western garments do not apply to the Chinese figure, so she often introduces British Chinese to a long history. Customized Menswear Shop. "Chinese people do not have enough spending power, but they do not understand it." She said. She hopes to be "high" in the future, and also be a media person. "Introduce British lifestyle and brand to China, and introduce China's processing plants to Britain."

Although the "advanced custom" fashion is known as the "crown jewel" in fashion industry, some fashion designers regard it as the highest pursuit and ideal of their career, but its profits are not as bright as the surface. It is not a secret that "high determination does not make money". Old fashions such as Chanel and Valentino still insist on setting up Haute Couture product line, one is brand value added, the second is rich brand story, so they earn money for making a profit.