French Designer Brand Azzedine Alaia Walks Out Of Paris
1980s is the golden age of the fashion industry.
At the time, the designers of Eve Szentloran, KENZO and Carle lager were at their peak.
Among them, Azzedine Alaia, known as "the king of tights", belongs to a maverick.
This designer, who is over 70 years old, never takes part in fashion week. He only releases a small area in his studio in the two quarter of a year, but still stubbornly does something different.
However, for coming to China, he is not only so stubborn, but also very active.
In December 10, 2014, he opened his third boutiques to SKP Beijing Xinguang world, which was also the first boutique in Paris.
This is beyond many people's expectations.
In recent years, the Chinese market has been greatly concerned by the fashion industry. A large number of designer brands are beginning to pour into the market, and buyers' shops for more personalized needs are also growing.
But this mysterious and famous Chinese designer, who has not yet walked out of fashion circles, has chosen such an important shop in Beijing. It seems a bit too hasty.
That's what Azzedine Alaia did.
Born in Tunisia and now living in Paris, fashion designer wears a mandarin jacket all year round, which is probably the only element that he can find in China.
According to Alaia's brand commercial director Caroline Fabre-Bazin, the opening of the Beijing store is part of the brand image adjustment plan launched in the last two years.
"If a brand like ours has too many stores and too much exposure, customers will feel that we are no longer a luxury brand, and no longer like us."
Fabre-Bazin told reporters.
Compared to the independent stores, Fabre-Bazin brand store located in department stores called "corner" Corner.
In the past two years, the number of Corner in the world has decreased from more than 300 to more than 200, and seventy or eighty of the seventy or eighty image shop outlets have been closed.
It also went out of the Azzedine Alaia studio in Paris in October for the first time in 2013, and opened second independent boutiques on Montaigne Avenue.
"Beijing SKP Xinguang Tiandi new store has a larger display space, more goods, it is closer to our way of running independent stores in Paris, and is also a good upgrade for brand image."
Fabre-Bazin thinks that this kind of image shop is more desirable to expand in the future.
In designer brand, Alaia has higher relative price.
In the clothing series sold in its stores, the price of a skirt is usually over 20 thousand yuan, while the advanced custom product sells for more than 100 thousand yuan.
At the end of the 1970s, Azzedine Alaia made advanced custom clothes for women of noble families, such as Rothschild's Mathilde and C cile, were his long-term customers.
"When a woman wants to attract men's attention, Azzedine Alaia's skirt has helped half of it."
Mathilde de Rothschild has said so.
Different from some fashion designers' experience, Azzedine Alaia had studied sculpture in his boyhood, which made him specializes in three-dimensional cutting according to the female body curve.
He used leather and elastic cotton skirt design, known as "the second layer of women's skin."
In 1981, Azzedine Alaia held its first fashion conference in Paris.
Promoted by ELLE Nicole editor Crassat and WWD editor Bill Cunningham at that time, the designer who had only been popular in Paris's upper class began to be recognized by Europe and the United States.
"In 1980s, the whole fashion world was talking about Alaia."
VOGUE American Creative Director Grace Coddington described her status in the fashion world in her memoirs at the time of Azzedine Alaia.
Alaia amazed everyone by examining the different perspectives of the human body.
His costumes are pleasurable and sensuous, and give you a sense of line. All the pleats are vividly displaying your waistline.
Grace Coddington said.
This naturally benefits from his extremely strict requirements in design.
Especially in today's fashion industry, Azzedine Alaia is one of the few designers who still insist on proofing and tailoring themselves. He often collages a cloth with more than 40 pieces of cloth that is accurately cut, and then completes a design after several times of trial fitting.
"Azzedine never needs anyone to rush, always working, because he loves fashion design."
Fabre-Bazin said that the most creative time of the 75 year old designer is still in the middle of the night.
He works almost daily until 4 in the morning and rises at 7 in the morning.
These exquisite and special designs make Azzedine Alaia gather around a group of loyal fans.
In the description of Fabre-Bazin, some of you love Alaia.
customer
It always buys a dozen skirts to bring home at home, which makes Alaia's Corner at Harold store in London often sell more than 60 clothes a day.
Just two months ago, he made the latest spring and summer conference in the studio at 7 Montaigne Avenue, Paris, in 2015.
To the surprise of the media, he released 90 new models this time, which is equivalent to the release of Carle Lagrange in the Chanel [micro-blog] season, but Carle Lagrange has a team designer, and Azzedine Alaia is just one person.
The eccentric and obstinate designer hates everything that lies between him and his clothes and clothes.
"Now the fashion industry's system is exhausting designers, and they are too tired to cope with the number of designs and the schedule of fashion week, so they have no time to stop thinking."
In an interview with Vanity Fair in 2012, Azzedine Alaia said.
In addition to not attending fashion week, he asked all celebrities who wanted to wear his clothes to try it in person.
He also sent a guest order to some stars who sent stylists to pick Alaia clothes.
As a result, Frabe-Bazin is responsible for its brand work, which does not include advertising, promotion, social media, e-commerce and so on.
Frabe-Bazin started working with Azzedine Alaia 15 years ago, and now her business team has 6 people.
"Although Azzedine often says he never cares about sales and data, in fact, he has strong intuition and awareness of business."
Frabe-Bazin said that when Azzedine Alaia felt that a space was suitable for selling his clothes, he would immediately point out.
"He is indeed a stubborn person. I must accept all his decisions, but I have to say that most of the time he is right."
According to Frabe-Bazin, choosing to open a shop in Beijing SKP Xinguang world is also mainly invested by Azzedine Alaia.
"We did consider some venues in Beijing before, but when Azzedine first came to see the space of this independent shop in Beijing Xinguang world, SKP, it was very interesting."
Frabe-Bazin said that Azzedine Alaia soon became a friend of the Beijing Hualian Group Group, which is SKP of Xinguang world, and "when it comes to business decisions, confidence in space and teamwork is the most important."
Although the opening day
Azzedine Alaia
It did not appear on the scene, but Frabe-Bazin said he had come to Beijing two times in the past 4 months before signing the shop.
At the request of Azzedine Alaia, this shop is very simple in decoration.
There are hardly any decorations except for a whole wall of mirrors and densely arranged spotlights on the ceiling.
The Beijing Hualian team, which is responsible for the opening of Alaia's new world in Beijing, SKP, understands that this idea is just like Azzedine Alaia feels that his clothes can speak her own way. The idea of designing a shop is to let the product go to the front, so that guests feel that they are looking for clothes when they enter the shop.
1 months before the opening of Alaia Beijing store, the 4 tier of Beijing SKP Xinguang world has just completed the upgrading.
It changed from the traditional department store pattern to the floor of a women's clothing store with almost all luxuries.
At the same time, Beijing SKP Xinguang Tiandi also set up a team specializing in self operated business within the management team, selecting more brand new and niche brands in women's shoes, accessories and other fields, and made a multi brand collection store area.
The department store has maintained the highest annual sales of single stores in China for several years.
Milan's buyer shop 10 Corso Como was also stationed in the 4 tier of Beijing SKP Xinguang world at this turning point.
Its founder, Carla Sozzani and Azzedine Alaia, is friends for many years. In the two paction of Azzedine Alaia, which sold the brand to Prada and the peak group, she has helped and bridged.
"And 10 Corso Como next to Beijing SKP new light world is also one of Azzedine's confidence sources."
Frabe-Bazin said.
Alaia Beijing store opened this day. Carla Sozzani also appeared in Beijing SKP Xinguang world. She also called the 10 Corso Como restaurant to support Alaia's opening activities.
Alaia's shop in Beijing SKP Xinguang world belongs to the department store's proprietary store.
This also means that Beijing SKP Xinguang world as a brand agent dealer will buy out all products that need to be sold in China. Alaia does not need to take on too many commercial risks here.
As the commercial director of brand, Frabe-Bazin still shows some concerns.
"Many people think that the Chinese market is big enough and business will be easy to do.
In my opinion, the market is rather complicated and sensitive. Chinese people have their own cultural concepts and are very careful at every step. "
This is not a concern from sales performance.
In the past few years, Alaia has entered the Chinese market through the link of Crawford and Joyce.
From the feedback of these boutique boutiques, this expensive but low-key designer brand has indeed attracted some customers who do not want to show off.
Therefore, in this
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