Designer Laurence Xu: Ten Years Ago, I Married To Nanjing Brocade.

Laurence Xu graduated from the costume design department of the Central Academy of Arts and crafts from the famous designer Francis Delokran of France. He became famous because of the design of international red carpet dress by stars such as Fan Bingbing, Zhang Jingchu, Zhou Yun and Yan Ni.

He is also the only Chinese designer in China who has entered the official fashion show for two consecutive weeks in Paris.

Nanjing brocade is located in the first place of the four famous brocade in China. The three dynasties in yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties are all royal tribute products, with the reputation of "inch Jin and inch gold".

In January 27th, Lawrence Hu, the first Chinese famous designer who was selected for the Paris custom fashion week, brought the Nanjing auspicious cloud brocade to the Paris advanced custom fashion week.

The Yangtze Evening News reporter interviewed Laurence Xu to show you the whole process of Nanjing Yun brocade on the Paris fashion week.

10 years ago

Designers first encounter cloud brocade, let Fan Bingbing burst red.

"The south is good, the machine takes the job, peacocks make up flowers, clouds and brocade rotten, ice silkworm vomits the Phoenix mist and empties empty, the new small group dragon."

This is the poetry of Qing Dynasty poet Wu Meicun praising Yun brocade.

Nanjing cloud brocade is exquisite in material, fine in weavers, elegant in design, and magnificent in color. It has always been a royal offering.

In 2003, Lawrence Hu, a famous fashion designer, called the Nanjing cloud brocade house. He said he had seen the brocade on the Internet and felt very beautiful.

At that time, the Museum of cloud brocade in Nanjing had not been built yet. The scene was very messy. Many of the brocade boxes were placed in the box. But Lawrence Hys's eyes liked the gorgeous brocade fabric. "The brocade is like a grid in the deep lane."

In September 2007, he designed the "Yun Jin evening dress" for Zhou Yun, who attended the Venice Film Festival.

The most famous one was the sixty-third Cannes Film Festival in 2010. Fan Bingbing was dressed in a dragon robe to stir the opening red carpet and got the third top ten red carpet stars in the year when the fashion website "Redcarpetfashionawards" was selected.

The dragon pattern on the Dragon Robe and the cliffs and stripes on the river floor are all classical patterns of brocade.

10 years later

Cloud brocade Paris show: Wanli Dragon Robe dress

In 2013, the "auspicious" brand "Nanjing brocade" of the Yun Brocade Institute of Nanjing was first introduced to the world by Laurence Xu in 2013 at the "China custom" press conference of the autumn and winter high fashion week.

In the spring and summer of 2015, the Paris fashion week, Laurence Xu joined the Nanjing Yun Brocade to launch the "Dunhuang fashion show" again. This is also the second auspicious cloud brocade as the top fabric supplier for landing on the French Paris stage.

The tuxedo fabric is completely woven according to the weaving method of the emperor's Dragon Robe of Wanli, illuminated by the old knitted fabrics with nearly 30 years of weaving age. From the pattern design to the weaving and finishing of the weaving machine, there are more than 120 processes to go through. The daily output of each fabric in the fashion week is only 5-6 centimeters, each of which is an art treasure.

"In the first year, he came to talk to us and hoped that we would become a supplier of French advanced custom fabrics."

Wu Ying, deputy general manager of the Nanjing brocade Institute, said: "it's difficult to become a designer of Paris's advanced custom clothes. It needs a variety of reviews. When Lawrence Hu became a designer in the first year, the French side sent someone to Nanjing cloud brocade house to check whether our fabric was qualified or not. The result is," this fabric is so great! "Wu Ying said.

No problem at all! "

Yun Jin Bao and shoes also rushed into Paris.

Originally designed by Lawrence Hu for the Paris advanced custom fashion week, it was another set of red Chinese clothes. The lucky brocade brocade has been busy for half a year for this fabric.

Due to the need to shoot the "discovery and discovery" channel, the design draft of the Chinese dress was exposed in advance.

According to the request, Laurence Xu had to design his new clothes again.

It's hard to beat him. He has long wanted to move the "Dunhuang" element onto T.

Last September, Lawrence Hu and Wu Ying came to the cloud brocade house.

"Wanli emperor's Dragon Robe is made of yarn material, and there are two kinds of yarns for weaving materials. One is brocade on yarn, the other is for weaving yarn and then for brocade. Then we chose the first kind."

Wu Ying said that the biggest feature of Yun Brocade is all manual weaving. The patterns, patterns and shades on the cloth are all molded at once. If the fabric is not woven, the whole cloth will be useless. "Like this yarn with a grain of yarn, it depends on the strength of the workers in a certain process, so that it is difficult to make different shading."

"Lawrence Hu needs 7 meters of yarn. We can only send a little bit of it to him. It will be finished in two months, and then brocade for another month."

Wu Ying said.

Among the 30 Chinese garments, including the golden flower season of the 9 year old model, there are 4 cloud brocade dresses.

Lawrence Hu made a special design for the 4 dresses, 3 Blue gowns, the design concept stems from the Tang Dynasty costumes, "women in the Tang Dynasty put the belt on the waist, and the skirt would turn a little bit down, so I enlarged the turned skirt to make a modern sense of clothing."

Besides the dress, there are 4 pairs of shoes and two bags made of silk brocade.

"Yun Brocade is the first time used on shoes."

Wu Ying said that after the Paris advanced custom fashion week, many manufacturers came to find the cooperation of Nanjing Yun Brocade brand "auspicious cloud brocade".

Facing each other

Western designers can take totem.

But we can't take away our charm.

"Ten years ago, I married him to Nanjing brocade."

Lawrence Hu's sentence made many people in Nanjing cloud brocade courtyard moved. "I entered the design industry so far, my heart has not changed. I will make clothes with the ancient technology. I will insist on this."

"Yun Kam Wah's manufacturing process is superb.

We carefully analyze the manufacture and details of a dress.

From design, plate making, pattern, cross stitch, weaving to fabric success, tailoring and production, at least half a year.

Lawrence Hu said, "many traditional elements in China, totem, color and so on, have a significant impact on the world, and Westerners are also looking for inspiration.

More and more Western designers choose Chinese elements, but they can take away our totem, but they can't take away our charm. "

Why arrange a 9 year old model?

Reporter: can you talk about the 9 year old little model "Hydrangea"?

Lawrence Hu: knowing this child is a fate.

I think her temperament can explain my dress, her air field can also control my show.

But this child does not want to be famous.

I don't want to see any influence on Paris fashion week.

Reporter: the first and the second big show of you was the first silk dress with silk brocade. Is this a special arrangement?

Is there any moral?

Lawrence Hu: Yes, I think every show is like a dream. It's like the innocence of childhood.

The appearance of Hydrangea indicates the beginning of a prosperous dream.

When I was 7 years old, I took her to my first fashion show in Paris for the first time, and this time it was still her.

She was dressed in pure gold brocade, and the dream of a prosperous Tang Dynasty was opened.

In addition, "Hydrangea" clothes do not have special inspiration from Dunhuang. I still think that she is suitable for wearing, and children are suitable for wearing.

Why bring Dunhuang to Paris?

Reporter: how do you want to bring the theme of "Dunhuang" to Paris?

Lawrence Hu: Dunhuang is a dream.

When I was a child, I had an initial recognition and yearning for my father.

Zhang Daqian impressed me by copying the 276 murals for 3 years in the sandy area of Gobi.

It was not until July 2014 that I felt ready to touch the land of dreams.

Dunhuang is the starting point of the ancient Silk Road's throat fortress and the camel ringing to the West.

I saw the beauty and mystery of Dunhuang, but also saw the desolation behind the brilliant scenery.

In the western expedition of Taobao, the relics of the cave were pported to the West.

Today's Chinese people should have such an awakening to regain the dignity of a nation.