How To Change Luxury Luxury Line?
2013 is a relatively turbulent year for Marc Jacobs. One is to leave LouisVuitton, who has been the creative director for 16 years, and the two is to hand over the design of Marc by MarcJacob to the two Britons LuellaBartley and Katie Hillier. What we are puzzled is that Marc Jacobs alone has made a great deal of effort in the design of the Marc.
In recent years, many
Brand vice line
Facing the awkward situation, but how to get out of the predicament? First, look at the target customers from the sub line types.
Traditional auxiliary line classification
There are two kinds of sub lines. One is the exclusive line of brand for customers who cover different industries, ages and styles. There are a large number of sub lines, usually without a fashion show. The style is clear and uniform, and there is no seasonal trend.
For example, the more clearly defined brands are Ralph Lauren, with a large number of subordinate lines, including Polo Ralph Lauren, Purple Lable, Black Lable, RRL, Golf, RRL & so on, to meet the needs of business and sportswear, or customers who love urban leisure, retro, and college style.
Another main feature of the sub line is based on the popularity of the brand, and extends the younger, more acceptable and lower price ancillary series.
For example, Chloe has See by Chloe, Valentino has Red Valentino, Alexander Wang has T by, Wang and so on.
This takes into account brand names.
Business factors
The main brand has already had a certain reputation, its image is fixed, its sales volume is considerable. Besides the high-income fixed customers, it has a group of unaffordable fans. The launch of the sub line just meets the group.
Moreover, the tailoring and style of the sub line are usually simpler than the main brand, and the style is younger. This is also the change of many big brands, and the brand is younger.
Difficulties faced by sub line
1. main and secondary line location confusion
Look, in 2011, Dolce & Gabbana announced the closure of its secondary line D&G, which made the fashion industry very puzzled and regrettable, because D&G sales were very impressive, with an annual revenue of 400 million euros.
D&G is so popular that the designer has to endure the pain because it has taken the lead.
When other young brands start to be a bit of a celebrity, they create the sub line as early as possible and expand the brand.
However, after many years of operation of the D&G sub line, designers began to find that consumers were confused about the location of the main line and the sub line.
Too many people think that D&G is the abbreviation of Dolce & Gabbana, and the D&G style is young. Although pricing is not cheap, it is still better than the mainline.
2. young brands on the road, vice line lost advantage
Another trend is the rise of young designers in recent years.
Street Style
When the road and even sports brands become fashionable gradually, consumers tend to buy younger brands.
Such as Opening Ceremony, Christopher Kane, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Alexander Wang are all very popular, they have a higher sense of touch with the trend and demand, and create more freedom.
This makes consumers more inclined to choose a young brand with unique design and reasonable price.
Even in the past, Chinese consumers who focused on high brand recognition also had a clear trend, and under the influence of Korean wave, the styles of young brands could better satisfy the needs.
Under the pressure of consumers' preferences and needs, many brands are improving their collateral lines in different ways in the face of these pressures. This is the problem that many brands with secondary lines are facing in recent years.
How to change the secondary line?
1. clear the boundaries and relocate.
The main line and the secondary line "draw boundaries" and "relocate" are one of the strategies.
Some sub line brands have enough capacity to maintain a single specialty store and stabilize sales, and clear positioning, such as Red Valentino, Emporio Armani, Marc by Marc Jacobs, etc.
They can draw a clear line with the main line, and do not affect their status under the pressure of young brands.
For reference, Prada and Miu Miu are also designed by Miuccia Prada.
Some people think that Miu Miu is the secondary line of Prada, but the actual positioning and style are totally different, and the price is not the same.
Miu Miu was created solely for Miuccia Prada. It feels that Miuccia Prada is not enough to play a brand, but also manages two brands to display its endless talents. It is very easy to become the main subordinate line relationship accidentally.
But at least there is no connection between the two names. They are independent and independent in style. They also own specialized shops, but the cost of investment is relatively higher.
2. independence
Another strategy is to be "independent".
This may be one of the reasons why MarcJacobs is responsible for the overall delivery of Marc by MarcJacobs (hereinafter referred to as MBMJ) to Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier.
Marc Jacobs personally designed MBMJ for sports, leisure and mashup.
If MarcJacobs puts 99% skills in the main line, then the secondary line is only about 70%, because every season is very single.
Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier are British, which makes MBMJ the 180 major pformation of the American brand style, powerful and powerful, like MBMJ becoming an adult girl, and becoming more mature in cutting skills.
MBMJ is refreshing. No matter in designer or brand style, MBMJ is more independent and presents a brand new. Next, Marc Jacobs should make a comprehensive reform for MBMJ store.
3. reluctantly give up
The main line is the soul of the whole brand. If we still want to maintain its status, we will have to close the sub line like Dolce & Gabbana and attack the main line.
To avoid the confusion of consumers, we think that the collateral line is the tool of making money for the brand, and it will eventually become a double loss.
For example, Kors by Michael Kors, Burberry Sport have all been shut down, too many secondary lines will only confuse consumers and lose the main focus.
Under the pressure of changing consumer demand and new brands, the auxiliary line is under tremendous pressure.
But the brands are also beginning to realize the problem. If the price is appropriate, the contrast is clear, the main line is not in conflict, the sub line can still get a share in the two or three line brand market.
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