Wuhan'S Clothing Industry Yesterday, Today And Tomorrow.

Only facing the history and facing the reality can we have the future.

Together with Xiaobian, we will know about the past and present of Wuhan's clothing industry.

Lack of brand names in the country, fewer seats in the mall...

At present, the impression is "atrophy" two words.

From the wholesale Hanzheng Street era to the "Internet +" electricity supplier era, more than 20 years of ebb and flow, several generations of people struggling, what did the Han style clothing lose and what did they leave behind?

So far, there are more than 1600 clothing enterprises in Wuhan and about 400000 employees. Who will lead the huge industry? Where should Wuhan's clothing industry go?

Wuhan has developed business, and the problem is whether local clothing can stand up.

The picture shows a new conference of a shopping mall.

Students of fashion design major in Wuhan Textile University are finishing up.

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Can Wuhan keep them tomorrow?

A strong clothing brand can not be separated from a complete industrial chain support.

There are over 400 thousand garment workers in Wuhan.

The picture shows the production workshop of a garment company.

In November 2014, the third Wuhan international fashion week.

The "Han workshop" special brand store which is jointly established by Wuhan garment enterprises has become a highlight.

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Glorious years: the best women's wear is in Wuhan.

If we put the clock back to 20 years, the Han style costume we saw is totally different.

In the early 90s of last century, small businesses in Hankou's big clip street, Yangzi street, Hanzheng Street and "front shop and back factory" mushroomed.

Relying on smooth trade and trading channels, the first batch of Han style clothing brands -- Taihe, Chinese and English, elegant, Yuan Tian, red men...

Grow up quickly.

Liu Shuren, who graduated from Jianghan University in 1990, embraced the desire to rush for gold. Three went to Shenzhen, set up a stall, worked for two years, worked in Hanzheng Street for further education, and set up Wuhan yuan Tian Garment Co., Ltd. in 1993.

Recalling the road of entrepreneurship, Liu Shuren was a little excited: "at that time, the Wuhan clothing world of the two floor of Wuhan shopping mall was the most wanted counter for us. We rented the factory buildings of state-owned enterprises, just like making bread.

When the sales volume exceeded 100 million yuan, the top ten of women's clothing sales were Han style clothing.

Liu Shuren likened Wu Shang to "Han style clothing incubator", "we are all growing up in it."

Indeed, the 1995-1997 year is the first development peak of Han style clothing, with more than 2000 garment enterprises.

What popular production and what good marketing business, enterprises and brands quickly adapt to market changes and vitality in competition.

"At that time, our products were in short supply, and foreign merchants scrambled to buy them, and then shipped them to all parts of the country for sale."

Liu Shuren was still proud of the situation.

As the president of Wuhan clothing trade association, he appraised that the Han style clothing during that period was a natural brand, but "we just didn't realize it."

Confused time: "going to Wuhan" of Han style clothing

Up to the beginning of this century,

It can still be equal to Shanghai, Guangdong and Zhejiang.

Many garment enterprises are proud of their "Han style clothing". They have strong Wuhan imprints: Women's clothing is the main form, casual or professional clothing is steady and generous, well-dressed, high, medium and low-grade, all kinds of styles are complete.

In China's Clothing Industry Association selected 60 of the National Women's clothing, Wuhan accounted for 9 seats.

Gradually, the Han style clothing has also lost its status on its own site.

5 years ago, Han style clothing, which has a history of more than 30 years, first encountered a strong impact from the local market. Because its sales performance was no match for foreign brands, it was difficult to complete the sales target of 3 million yuan in 1 years, and about 10 brands were retreated by Wuhan square.

Under the constant extrusion of a large number of international and domestic brands, the share of Han style clothing in the local market has dropped rapidly, with annual sales of only 5%, and more sold to the surrounding areas of Wuhan and the three or four tier cities nationwide.

Worse still, when it comes to Han style clothing, many people first think of the lack of originality, plagiarism and market disorder.

Han style clothing seems to be no longer a halo, but an embarrassing historical burden.

As a result, some of the famous Han products began to try to "go to Wuhan".

They are "incognito", changing names and changing places of registration.

Can "go to Wuhan" really solve the problem of Han style clothing? The experience of the red man is very representative.

In the late 90s of the last century, the red man plated his "Reed man" as his new name, trying to restructure the market. Redman

"During the rename period, the market performance is mediocre, and the foreign name has blurred its own characteristics, making it even more difficult to market positioning."

Tang Guanyi, chairman of the red dress, recalled that during the two years of renaming, the red man became busy but confused, so he was jokingly called "tired and slow" by the industry.

"No clear market positioning, product quality can not keep up with, then foreign names can not get consumers' favor."

To learn from the pain, the red man groped for his own position. Now the brand has developed well and has been awarded the "well-known trademark in China".

The cat and Giovanni clothing directors also said that although they agreed with the clothing companies to change their places of registration, or set up branches in other places, they could not solve the problem of survival and development of Han style clothing.

"Most of the Han style clothing industry still stays in the initial development mode when the industry competition focus shifted from the initial low-end wholesale to the brand competition, thus missed the development opportunity.

The major brands are more in plagiarism design, resulting in brand image damage.

Zhao Jun, President of the Wuhan Fashion Designers Association, believes that the most important thing is to strengthen the originality of brand design. We must sacrifice a lot of money to hire famous fashion designers to help companies do research and development. Secondly, we should strengthen brand promotion. "You list all the famous stars in the Chinese world, and you will find that almost all of them have endorsed the costumes of coastal areas."

Bitter thoughts: what is behind the decline?

As of 2013, there were more than 1600 garment enterprises in Wuhan, employing about 400000, with annual sales revenue of 50 billion and foreign exchange earning nearly 500 million dollars.

According to the survey conducted by the Wuhan Municipal Commission of letters, the output value of garment enterprises above designated size has been increasing in recent three years.

This shows that as one of the traditional advantageous industries, the clothing industry in Wuhan has not stopped developing.

This group of data reflects a slight difference with people's impression.

What is the matter? Insiders admit that it is not that we did not develop, but that no one else developed quickly.

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Let's look at another set of data:

Of the more than 1600 garment enterprises in Wuhan, there are only 50 enterprises above Designated Size, while the number of Enterprises above Designated Size in Hangzhou, Qingdao and Ningbo are 1250, 748 and 437 respectively.

On the scale of enterprises, the output value of AI only exceeds 1 billion yuan. In addition, there are 1 enterprises with an output value of 500 million -10 billion yuan, 27 of which are 100 million -5 billion yuan, and others are below 100 million yuan.

The output value of Qingdao ITV group (mainly producing knitted garments) exceeded 10 billion yuan, and the output value of Ningbo YOUNGOR exceeded 4 billion yuan.

Obviously, compared with the similar cities in the whole country, Wuhan's garment enterprises are small in scale and weak in strength.

Secondly, for a long time, the clothing industry in Wuhan is mainly based on the foundry industry, which is at the low end of the value chain, low in product development and technological innovation, lack of strong awareness of brand building, and lack of original design. It is still a traditional production base and has not changed to creative and creative industries.

Take the number of brands as an example, Shenzhen clothing has more than 100 well-known brands in China, Ningbo has 11 well-known trademarks in China (5 in Wuhan), and 11 famous brand products in China (3 in Wuhan).

Due to the lack of creative design environment, more than 80% of the local trained professionals have left Wuhan, and the fashion industry is unable to grasp the fashion trend in time.

This is the crux of the Han style fashion design that is not fashionable enough.

Wang Hongying, a well-known designer, bluntly bluntly said that although Wuhan's clothing enterprises had invested heavily in hiring designers at home and abroad, they could not keep them, because these enterprises did not make long-term strategic cooperative development plans, nor did they spend too much time to know whether the designers were suitable or not. They were always holding the mentality of trying to see them, and always thinking about the results in the first quarter.

"In fact, any adjustment takes a certain amount of time. The adjustment of style takes longer, and sometimes it takes some unsuitable short-term sales decline."

The third problem is the lack of support from the industrial supply chain.

This is the reason why Zhao Huizhou, the founder of Wuhan's art fair, gave up Wuhan. "In Wuhan, more than 80% of high-end fabrics, accessories and accessories need to be purchased. In Shenzhen, you will never have such a problem. Clothing companies have little pressure in choosing materials, and they can focus on design and quality."

The single product structure and insufficient high-end support have seriously hindered the development of Wuhan clothing enterprises in the high-end and branding development.

At present, with the development of the Internet, the impact of the electricity supplier on the clothing industry is obvious.

Since 2013, Chinese garment enterprises have begun to shop in waves.

According to incomplete statistics, in a short span of two years, China's trend, Lining, Anta, Metersbonwe and other garment enterprises closed more than 7000 stores.

In the Han style clothing, the most striking thing is that in 2014, Giovanni shut down 120 losses, no profit and micro profit stores in the whole country, accounting for 40% of the total, while planning Internet pformation.

However, at present, Hubei garment enterprises are less than 50% of the electricity providers, and are far behind Guangdong, Fujian and Zhejiang.

Start from scratch: towards the "famous Chinese clothing city"

"Han style clothing" shows the advantages of a region's industrial resources and industries through a concept, which is deeply rooted in the minds of our employees.

At the present time, I am really unconvinced by this development.

Mild Liu Shuren spoke of this "unacceptable" tone, and his intonation also increased involuntarily.

As a coordinator of costume and industry for 22 years, he summed up the dilemma of Han style clothing as "not confident".

In the stage of pformation and wandering, blindly abandon their brand characteristics and copy others' brand operation mode.

"The clothing industry market is very big, Han faction clothing now three or four lines city coverage is very big, lacks is the quality.

We must be confident and persistent, and work together to create a benchmark brand with market impact, and form the first phalanx. Other brands will follow suit and do a good job in order to form a fine division of labor and solve the homogenization problem.

He said, this is like making mobile phones, mobile phone manufacturers do not necessarily have to do all their own accessories, responsible for their own creativity, professional OEM to complete.

Speaking from the clothing industry, to make cashmere coats well, make this brand and make a brand, not necessarily trousers and women's clothing, and can form a complex by other more professional brands.

His vision is the "Han workshop" that is being tried now.

Wang Hongying believes that not only the Han style women's clothing, the National Women's clothing are facing the next question where to go.

On the one hand, the impact of the electricity supplier, the personalized demand of consumers, the pformation of consumption patterns, the adverse effects of the homogenization products of the shopping mall have led to a serious decline in the performance of clothing. On the other hand, the cost of clothing has increased substantially, plus the retail price of clothing, resulting in a very low performance price ratio, a sharp decline in production and sales, and an increase in inventory. Some manufacturers are afraid of increasing inventory and reducing the number of production varieties, resulting in insufficient products, poor pition, poor collocation and poor interoperability.

The vicious cycle of this series is the plight faced by many domestic women's brands with no characteristics.

"Next, there are many more famous brands falling down.

The era of clothing profiteering has long passed, and then comes the era of rational, normal and flourishing clothing industry.

He said.

However, the bottom line of Wuhan's revival of clothing industry is still.

This is still the largest clothing production and retail center in the central region, and still has outstanding scientific and educational advantages, solid textile industry foundation, and solid garment manufacturing support.

Local governments also have ambitions.

According to the reporter, "Wuhan revitalization Han clothing industry special planning (2014-2019)" proposed to create "China's clothing city", the relevant supporting policies have been introduced, Wuhan will produce special funds every year.

The Wuhan international fashion week has been held for three consecutive sessions.

In the fashion show shows, famous brands at home and abroad come out one after another. Wuhan brands compete with each other, bringing not only the splendid visual feast, but also the fashion dream of a city: a modern mega city should have her beautiful neon, elegant temperament, dress and dress, and can become the most fashionable business card.

Han style clothing is looking forward to starting again.

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Message

There will be a fundamental change in the development of China's garment industry. The development trajectory in the future will not depend on quantity expansion, but on the expansion of economic benefits. Brand development should pay special attention to "quality, brand and taste".

Accurate positioning, good products, making brand name and achieving value will help improve the Han style clothing enterprises.

Jiang Hengjie, former vice president and consultant of China Fashion Association

Brand is a kind of culture, brand embodies a way of life.

20 years ago, people who make costumes will talk on their lips. Now it is estimated that more people will really appreciate its meaning.

The brand age is really coming. Now it is an important turning point in China's clothing industry. It has filtered out some of them and set up a barrier to frighten away some of them. The rest of them are those who love her and understand her, so that they can persist.

Wang Hongying (Hongkong MYTHE CO. design director)

The development of the clothing industry is a cumulative process, which requires time, patience, diligence and talent.

This development process requires the government and relevant departments to create a good environment for the development of the whole industry. At the same time, the fashion and culture of the city will be created. When the fashion and culture is increasing, the fashion consumption of the city will be enhanced, the market can be formed, and the good market can attract more outstanding enterprises and design talents.

Zhao Huizhou (founder and chief designer of Shenzhen Yi Hui fashion group)

To revitalize Han style clothing, we need to create a fashion atmosphere.

A city lacks cultural atmosphere, and without fashion, it is difficult to create a designer who has an idea and personality.

As the soul of the clothing brand, the importance of the designer is self-evident. A good designer needs an atmosphere, and the creation of atmosphere needs the efforts of all sectors of society.