Plant Dyeing And Dyeing For Fabrics With Mild Color And Skin Touch.
"For the first time in modern and contemporary times, plant dyeing is applied to woven fabrics.
Silk fabric
The breakthrough in dyeing can make people today experience the true colors of ancient clothes and close to nature, "said Li Hailong, Wu Luo's weaving artist.
The color of flowers and plants such as balsam, green beans, don't forget me, green lotus and so on, through special process, become the color of clothes: Impatiens pink, green bean color, don't forget grass color, green lotus color.
Recently, reporters at the experimental archaeological research and development center of brocade robe in ancient China saw that instead of chemical dyes and plant characteristics, plant dyeing was applied to the intangible cultural heritage Wu Luo, which had a kind of skin like touch and fascinating.
"Green, taken from blue, and green and blue", the famous saying in "Xunzi's advice on learning" means that indigo made from bluegrass can dye a more green color.
Plant dyeing, also known as grass dyeing, uses natural plants, Chinese herbal medicines, flowers, vegetables, and tea leaves to make dyestuffs for fabric dyeing.
According to relevant information, as early as four thousand or five thousand years ago in the Neolithic age, China has mastered the extraction and dyeing technology of plant dyes.
In the era of Huangdi, Xuanyuan began to dye and make clothes with grass juice.
Plant dyeing became the most important dyeing technology in the Tang Dynasty.
A large number of colourful silk fabrics dyed by grass and trees are passed through the world-famous "
The Silk Road
"It has been exported to Central Asia, Western Asia, the Mediterranean and Europe, and has created the brilliance of ancient Chinese silk, and the technology of plant dyeing has also spread to Japan and other countries.
With the progress of science and technology, plants dye the most intimate dyeing method with human skin, fade out gradually under the beautiful appearance of chemical dyed fabrics.
In modern times, in addition to pure plant dyeing, silk fabrics are basically dyed with chemical dyes.
In recent years, in the research and development work of Wu Luo fabric, Li Hailong has been seeking changes and breakthroughs in dyeing, trying to make Wu Luo fabric more in line with its historical characteristics.
At the beginning of this year, in cooperation with a Changzhou enterprise, the plant was finally dyed and applied to Wu Luo fabric.
"Unlike chemical dyestuffs, the materials used for dyeing plants are completely extracted from natural plants. They are selected for medium temperature dyeing. They are naturally dried, and no dye fixing agent is added in the whole process. What is advocated is the natural absorption and fixation of colors on silk fabrics."
It is worth mentioning that despite the adoption of new plant dyeing technology, the competitive advantage of Wu Luo fabric has not disappeared.
Reporters at the scene saw that Wu Luo's clothes dyed by plants were not only colorful, but also more mild and tactile, with a more skin feeling and softness.
"At the beginning, some Chinese clothing lovers contacted us. I hope we can apply plant dyeing to Hanfu production.
Because of Wu Luo's elegant characteristics and soft natural colors, the aura of Hanfu is fully revealed.
Later, more and more customers began to order this kind of pure natural green clothing. In the future, it will also be our high-end fabric product.
Li Hailong is also the chairman of Suzhou Shenglong Silk Embroidery Co. Ltd., he said.
Designer
And ordering the studio, he will further expand production and investment in this area.
It is understood that Shenglong is the first silk plant in Suzhou to use plant dyes. Compared with chemical dyeing, the cost of plant dyeing is 8-15 times higher than that of chemical dyeing, and its output rate is 15%-20% lower.
It is reported that at home, the current plant dyeing technology is still in the research and development stage, and there are still many links to be improved.
To this end, Li Hailong also reminded consumers to wash plants in dyeing clothes, should avoid high temperature, long time immersion.
What is Luo?
If it is light, it will be originated from the traditional weaving technology in the Warring States period. Four, after the twist technique, its fabric is light and breathable, showing a subtle relief effect. It has little friction with the skin and is easy to heat dissipation.
In ancient China, Luo was the best.
Summer clothing fabrics
。
Suzhou is the hometown of Luo, and its weaving skills are superb. It is known as "Wu Luo".
In 2013, Wu Luo's weaving skills were included in the Sixth Batch of Suzhou Intangible Cultural Heritage Representative items list, the inheritance unit Suzhou Shenglong Silk Embroidery Co., Ltd. and another silk weaving entrepreneur Ming silk factory.
What is natural dye?
Ancient dyestuffs used natural dyes, including plant dyes, mineral pigments and animal secretions.
Before the Warring States period, there were silk, hemp refining, dyeing, painting and other fabric processing systems.
Many plant dyes, such as madder, red grass, Corylus, hazelnut, black, and especially the bluegrass, can extract deeper indigo.
Muscovite, red cinnabar, black stone ink, gold and silver belong to mineral pigments and are used for pigment dyeing.
Animal dyes include cochineal insects, lac insect (purple rivet), cuttlefish juice, etc.
Purple rivet is a very strange dye that connects animals and plants.
"Dyeing" includes dyeing, mordant dyeing, dyeing and dyeing.
Mordant dyes can be derived from different mordant with various colors. Mordant, Jiang Huang, Sufang, madder, gardenia and Herba pellas are used as mordant dyes, while mineral metal salts can be used as mordant.
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