Are Frequent Changes In Men'S Wear Designers The Age Of Star Designers?

In late April, Italy

Gucci Gucci announces closure of its Brera area in Milan

The store is the only exclusive menswear store in Europe. About 500 square meters of three storey shops are open for less than three years.

The company said the reason for closing the shop was the replacement of the creative director, which was designed by Frida Giannini, the former creative director of the brand.

Despite the fact that in early 2015, Gucci replaced two important posts of CEO and creative director, the new image allowed the brand to regain market recognition and get better results, but it still could not conceal its third largest world.

Group France Kering Kai Yun group in the first quarter of this year's low expected growth in earnings.

Recently, the frequent changes of brand designers, especially the personnel changes in a series of top men's wear brand design circles, threw men's fashion industry into a blinding realm of prospect.

This seems to be inconsistent with previous industry and research institutions generally optimistic expectations for men's fashion industry.

Euromonitor, the world's authoritative market research firm, predicted that the global menswear accessories market will contribute 40 billion dollars in sales in 2019.

"The growth of men's clothing market is based on the combination of two factors, personal image and more disposable income," said Magdalena Kondej, director of the international apparel and footwear department. The global disposable income of men is still 50% higher than that of women. At present, the western market is spending more on clothing, and the growth in the future is expected to be more in the Asia Pacific region.

Men's designers change frequently

The frequent change of designers is the main reason for the unsuccessful men's clothing industry.

In early April, it also belonged to the luxury brand Saint Laurent of Kai Yun group, which confirmed that the creative director, Hedi Slimane Eddie Slimane, was about to leave.

In fashion circles, this "resignation" is far from blowing.

From last July Alexander Wang left the house of Paris, in October last year, Dior creative director Raf Simons also announced her departure.

In early February of this year, Stefano Pilati, director of fashion design of Ermenegildo Zegna Zegna, split up with Zegna who joined Zegna in 2013.

In late March, Salvatore Ferragamo also announced that Massimiliano Giornett, his creative director, ended his career as creative director for fifteen years.

Of course, some people have left, and Zegna's new art director is Alessandro Sartori, who has just left the post of art director of classic shoe brand Berluti.

But there is no evidence that the new designer will bring real gains to the chaotic men's clothing market.

The declining era of star designers?

At the end of March, Italy's top men's tailored suit brand Brioni was opened. After its creative director left, he appointed a new creative director, Justin O "Shea" -- a person with almost no design certificate and active social media.

The headline of his resume is that he, as director of procurement, has successfully pformed the mytheresa.com website and built it from a small shop in Munich to a luxury electronics retailer with an annual income of $130 million.

As mentioned above, the outside world is also very worried about Saint Laurent after Eddie Slimane left, because in the eyes of the outside world, Eddie Slimane appeared as a savior in the brand name, and he created a series of classic products to make fashion world.

Instead, he was a quiet Belgian designer in Italy, Anthony Vaccarello Anthony VAI, who was the designer of Versus Versace, Versace's young vice line brand fan se se.

All this seems to point to a conclusion: the gradual decline of star designers and the change of consumption structure are likely to trigger changes in the industry.

The possible impact of personnel changes in some aspects has been predicted. The CEO of Pitti Immagine of Italy Trading Group recently said on the phone: "this is the right time for everyone to change their methods."

Now is not only the declining era of star designers, but also the knowledgeable consumers already know what they want in the new era.

The huge number of people born at the end of the last century and the beginning of this century are full of entrepreneurial spirit. They are so accustomed to wearing simple clothes that the traditional suits are likely to be subverted.

In a sense, the rules of men's fashion are being shaken: suits are not the only option, men are more independent and creative in their choice of clothes, and more jobs do not require men to wear suits.

At that time, men's wear brands also began to think that they would no longer rely on traditional suits to carry a brand. Men's designers could stimulate demand through accessories separation and seasonal changes, perhaps to conquer the new generation of consumers in twenty-first Century, and some brands had already tasted sweet taste.

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Is the prospect still bright?

But from another perspective, the pformation of men's fashion is presaging that this industry will burst out more opportunities and possibilities to boost the market share of men's wear.

Most people in the industry are optimistic about the men's fashion industry.

Armand Hadida, the originator of global buyer shops, believes that "men's clothing is still the fastest growing market."

He has insisted on this theory for more than 25 years. He said: "the men's wear market is still a blank page, waiting to be excavated, and the dress is almost saturated and has been repeating the trend of the past, but men's clothing is still a new field."

He said in an interview with the media.

Traditional brands that focus on women's clothing have started to open men's wear stores alone. Quite a few luxury brands and popular fashion brands such as Burberry and ZARA have opened independent men's clothing stores to catch up with this growth trend.

On the other hand, men's wear revival is more prominent on the online sales side. According to IMRG data, the sales of men's clothing in Britain increased by 264% from January 2011 to December 2014, compared with that of women's wear sales during the same period, which increased by only 87%.

And this trend will continue.

According to IBISWorld, the sale of men's clothing online will increase by an average of 14.2% in 2015 and 2020.

This creativity is best reflected in the mobile terminal shopping APP.

Thomas Shawve, a luxury analyst at Citigroup investment bank in London, believes that the overall sales of men's clothing industry will remain strong, thanks to the newly discovered men's commitment to fashion. Thomas, Chauvet

Thomas believes that the future "luxury men's clothing growth is still expected to exceed women's clothing."