Zhang Zhaoda'S "New Orientalism" Dress Culture

"I want to write Oriental works, a costume without strong national symbols and modern aesthetic methods." Zhang Zhaoda said he called this new style in the process of creation "temporarily". New Orientalism "

If artistic creation is understood as another form of humanistic thinking, Zhang Zhaoda's "new Orientalism" that he wants to create is both a tradition and a tradition. Oriental design The reflection of the principle is also the development of modern Oriental dress civilization.

Adventure exploration

In recent years, many people who are interested in Zhang Zhaoda have been famous for their popularity in the fashion world. Design master "Guessing riddles" - why did Zhang master suddenly play art? Was it because the business was unsuccessful?

In fact, since Zhang Zhaoda's MARK CHEUNG brand opened its first store in Beijing in 1985, its sales ranking in its shopping malls has always been in the top three. In the design of the brand, Zhang Zhaoda integrated the elements and fabric technology of the dress into daily wear. Even though the price is higher, there are still a group of loyal and high-end customers.

In fact, Zhang Zhaoda is not playing cross-border art. He has been extensively involved in traditional Chinese culture since his childhood, and has studied traditional Chinese painting, calligraphy and oil painting. Clothing field The achievements were widely recognized.

In Zhang Zhaoda's view, painting or calligraphy is another expression of life and belief outside his clothing. To this end, he also took different adventures in different fields.

"Eastern spirit stresses the unity of heaven and man, which is spiritual. Therefore, I want to try to find inspiration from the traditional Chinese book of changes, and use dot line reasoning to design Oriental garments. However, although the idea is beautiful, the reality is that he almost confused the mind in the exploration of the book of changes, and did not find the way of design from this mysterious culture.

After that, he also selected geomantic science. Because a lot of the relationship between people and space is recorded in geomantic science, and clothing is also a concept expression of space. So he spent a long time studying, hoping to find inspiration to express the Oriental spirit. But because the connotation of Feng Shui is too rich and heavy, he finally chose to give up.

In spite of the first two Design The exploration did not seem to be successful, but Zhang Zhaoda did not feel sorry. He thought that when he had time and energy, he could make some design explorations. Designer The way of future development is clearer.

"Clothing is the closest thing to life, so we need to be particular about it." Zhang Zhaoda said, in China. Clothing system Clothing is regarded as an aesthetic concept, but different clothing materials belong to the physical concept. Therefore, in order to better express the spirit of China, we must put clothes on the spiritual level.

Zhang Zhaoda hopes to break the traditional outdated design thinking and find new in the spirit of Oriental culture. China Design Inspiration and train of thought.

Wizard thinking

Talking about China Designer The development of Zhang Zhaoda believes that the future will be a "genius" world.

"The earliest generation of designers in China can be regarded as generalists. Most of them spend 90% of their time doing things irrelevant to design. Because in that era, people did not understand enough about design, so that designers would spend a lot of time to "inspire" entrepreneurs to pay attention to design, and even be responsible for a series of extra work such as shop design, training franchisees, and so on. Even myself, I could not guarantee that the main time and effort should be put into design. And this is not in line with the future market. Designer Requirements. "

Zhang Zhaoda believes that the present Garment industry Designers need to be "professionals", and even designers who have grotesque ghosts in the future can satisfy consumers' diversified tastes and needs.

"Designers should also focus on the changes of society and industry, not just" head up "for design. Only know the latest fabric, technology and industry thinking. Designer Only in this way can we have a broader view of creation. In Zhang Zhaoda's view, the success of designer's clothing depends to a large extent on whether his design can meet the needs of the mainstream population and get their sense of identity, and the most important thing is to respect their way of life.

"As we pursue nationalization, we must pursue globalization. While pursuing others' recognition, they must also respect others' values and aesthetic tendency. Otherwise, it's hard for them to think it's beautiful. Zhang Zhaoda said this is the experience that he has accumulated over the years.

Oligarchy Era

"I think China's future. clothing There will be oligopoly in the industry, and they will reintegrate the resources of the whole industry. " In Zhang Zhaoda's view, if the Chinese garment industry wants to promote the professionalization of the industry and cultivate talented designers, it must have the emergence of oligarchic groups.

From the present world Clothing industry The pattern of luxury goods or parity brands is dominated by large international groups. As we know a lot of luxury brands, they are mainly in the hands of three big groups, namely, LVMH, and Kai Yun. "A designer who lacks capital and market share can not even get good clothing materials. If he has to bear the pressure of production, operation and promotion, how can he devote himself to the design? "In Zhang Zhaoda's view, only relying on oligopoly will make many young people nowadays. Designer Escape from the embarrassing situation of "exhausted". Moreover, the biggest advantage of this garment industry dominated by oligarchs is that they can make use of the advantages of raw materials and other industrial chain resources, channels, capital and brand management experience to promote the reshaping and specialization of resources in every aspect of garment industry.

" clothing It's a systematic project, not a shelf art. clothing The division of labor in the industry is very meticulous, and design is only part of it. If there is a link in the chain that is not excellent, then it is not perfect. Zhang Zhaoda believes that the oligarchy has abundant financial resources and resources. Designer To do the design they want, and the rich experience of the oligarchs in brand operation will greatly improve the possibility of the designer's success. In his view, China's garment industry, which is in deep spanition, needs to launch its own oligarchy group in the integration of resources and advantages, so as to build a brand new format.

"Firmly believe that China will have its own" clothing The formation of oligarchy and oligarchic pattern will also ensure the steady development of China's garment industry in the next 50 to 60 years. Zhang Zhaoda said.