There Is A "Vitoria Antique Dress Exhibition And Guerrilla Shop" Activities To Be Held In Beijing.

Before the Dragon Boat Festival, the ten hostess of my home in Yunnan, Beijing, announced that there was going to be a public announcement. Victoria antique Clothes & Accessories The activities of exhibition and guerrilla shops will be held, which is the result of her cooperation with her friend DDR Vintage. My ten small courtyard in Beijing east 4 narrow Changan quiet alley, carried out that day is 10, the world has been torrential rain, but still some people insist on visiting.

"It's interesting to hear Vitoria." A girl who went to the Hutong to see the exhibition said that she also brought her friends. The two men sent out to Zhang Miao, the director of DDR Vintage from time to time, "what is this bag made of? What about this ring?"

Zhang Miao and her husband, Lei Lei, a retro shop, DDR Vintage, are actually independent. Designer In the old fashions, the goods in the Vitoria era accounted for a small proportion of the old goods they had collected from other countries. In addition to some truly knowledgeable collectors, clothes in the Vitoria era are far from modern aesthetics and are not so well sold. But they decided to make a little exhibition in the name of Vitoria.

People feel the appeal of Vitoria's four mysterious and remote words. This is probably because "women in the Vitoria era have some characteristics of modern women, and they are also connecting with the previous era. If we want to talk about the history of clothing, we must start from the Vitoria era," she said. It is a beginning of fashion. "

It is a start, but it has a distinct feature in the clothing of the Vitoria era. Zhang Miao introduced: "the clothing of this period is relatively heavy. It is closer to the feeling of advanced customization. Only the nobility will wear it on a certain occasion. It will tell the craftsman what kind of fabric I want directly." It sounds like the prototype of Chanel, Dior and other high fashion houses.

In addition, women's pursuit of waist to hip ratio and lace tied skirts are still the most commonly used elements of fashion designers today. You can almost recognize the complex design style of this era, or some kind of characteristics, from literature to architecture, all belong to the Vitoria era. Under these images, there is a bustle of classical literature, Romanticism, Gothic style, Impressionism and so on, and the revival of all these styles is precisely the result of extreme prosperity at the social level.

From 1837 to 1901, the British rule of Queen Victoria, for decades, the territory of the British Empire reached 36 million square kilometers, the economy accounted for 70% of the world, and the reform bill passed in 1832 marked the coming of a rational era. During this period, the United Kingdom also experienced industrial revolution and long peace and prosperity. It can be said that in the Vitoria era, there were some similar Chinese Tang Dynasties, which was the flourishing age of Britain's consolidation of self status and the development of civilization.

People who are rich in material are always very particular about it. In a civilized environment that values moral cultivation, the way of life of the British is becoming more and more extreme. The middle and upper class are fastidious about their diet. They have recognized the spices from the Orient and learned to cook with them. The earliest cooking school in history was born in private, and the dessert began to prevail. In order to match the diet, the nobles also formed the habit of drinking afternoon tea.

Perhaps relying on the popularity of tea culture, tea party has gradually become the most common form of social interaction. Ladies and gentlemen are also strengthened by etiquette culture because of a cup of tea. And etiquette also determines the details of dress design.

During this period, women like Queen Victoria's pictures are like Chinese. Most of them wear clothes made of lace, spun yarn, lotus leaf, ribbon, bow tie, Peng skirt, standing collar, high waist, princess sleeve and so on.

Although these complex designs are not conducive to people's life, and behind these "retro styling" which are not applicable, they properly express the mental state of the people in addition to the flourishing age: extreme importance to taste and class. To display their status, craftsmen will wrap buttons with silk or satin to show their excellent skills. This is not only an aesthetic proposition, but also a social proposition. The more gorgeous, the more noble, the more labor and the richer.

But unlike China's most prosperous Tang Dynasty, women in the Vitoria period could not have breast exposure. They had an extremely conservative sense of sex. Therefore, women in the Vitoria era should wear high collar and block their fine necks while the clothes in the Tang Dynasty are very sexy.

The difference may be related to the different philosophy of East and West. In the period of abundant culture, Chinese ancients respected more nature, such as respect for nature, food and sex, sex and sex. They were endowed with wisdom and law, especially in Tibetan Tantra. In England, civilization is rational, because it emphasizes the concept of marriage system and law, and divides the beauty of sex from hedonism.

During the period of Vitoria, the number of churches built in England surpassed that of the whole country. The preachers preach everywhere, the politicians speak openly, and the newspapers spread the importance of the sanctity and chastity of "marriage".

But ridiculously, civilization is essentially a process of self suppression, and the more suppressed it is, the more obvious the resistance is. In this period, brothels have flourished, and pornography flourishes. Britain is now recognized as a mask society in the history of world art. In nineteenth Century, the moral slack of Europe affected the British, and they finally came to a repressive campaign. In the second half of the Vitoria era, the society used extreme moral restraint to bind people so that they could always pay attention to their manners. Decent women were regarded as necessarily lacking in sexual desire. It's almost impossible for you to see such an artificial jewelry outside Vitoria time. You wonder why an opera woman has to use a goose feather fan to block her expression for only a second.

English gentlemen and ladies will never say anything. This reminds people of a speech in the garden of Don ton. The owner of the garden described a man as weak in heart as he said, "he is like a Chinese porcelain."

The British have constantly warned themselves that the mystery is more worthy of expectation than nudity because of the wrapping of cloth. But because of this, sex is vented in a distorted way. For example, although women block their necks, they use their waist to make the waist thin and thin, which makes them appear big and buttocks. Although this kind of abdominal clothing has become popular in seventeenth Century, in the age of Vitoria, when it came to the nobility and the servants, the people pursued their love for the waist. In order to achieve the perfect waist to hip ratio, some people even took out two ribs. There is also a very symbolic leg of lamb in Vitoria, which will suddenly tighten at the wrist to highlight the physical characteristics of women.

Besides clothes, jewelry also shows a unique style. According to Zhang Miao, many rings in the Vitoria era are inlaid with three jewels. The largest gemstones in the middle are slightly smaller on the two sides. From left to right, they symbolize "past, present and future". This is still a strong religious view. And women like to travel with a small bag, it only uses a lipstick and a powder, and will not consider the capacity, right, they also like to put their silhouette on the shell, to the Chinese man to chat.

Unfortunately, these recognizable clothing has not been widely circulated so far. Zhang Miao said that her collection of 10 pieces of clothing was already very fragile, and she did not recommend wearing them regularly.

In the Vitoria era, European countries and the United States were also influenced by the spread of cultural prosperity of the Great Britain. With the emergence of European immigrants, the objects with this style spread to all parts of the world, and real goods and antique products flooded the market.

However, true or false can be discernible. For example, for the classic shell carving figures, modern imitations are carved and adorned. The edges and corners are more rounded. At the first glance, they are known as machine cuts, and the real ancient products are natural figures and shells. In addition, the real Vitoria era objects will not be too popular in the ordinary retro market, and are mostly found in antique shops in Europe and the United States.

"British gold implements are most easily identifiable, and they will be marked. For example, this ring has 5 labels. It needs a magnifying glass to see it. It says it may be that London may be made by Bermingham, and who is the producer, and the name of stone and stone. " Zhang Miao said.

To this day, we can still see the British's memory of the Vitoria era. 2013, coincides with the completion of the London subway 150 years anniversary, Londoners dressed in the Vitoria era costumes, opened a subway trip, London Underground Ltd also deliberately arranged the celebration on Sunday, so that more people can join. On that day, people threw their hat out of the window excitedly, and jumped like a "empire of the sun" that succeeded in the industrial revolution a century ago.

It is not difficult to understand that the country that still retains the monarch may still miss the past, cherish the memory of the prosperous time, cherish the nobility, push the noble to the extreme red tape, and cherish the golden age of civilization expansion. As for the Chinese people who are interested in Vitoria culture, they may be some of the spirit of the British monarchy. They are also hidden in the bones of the Chinese people who have been altering for thousands of years. It is also possible that the bitter memories of the Opium War are too deep, so we all have special thoughts on this.