Where Is The Original Designer Brand?

In the past three months, the reporter interviewed three generations of business operators with nearly 10 billion pactions. They talked about a common view that personalized brands are getting better and better.

It sounds like a draught, but it's very hard to do.

Take the field of clothing, for example.

brand

Founder Fang Jianhua said he wanted to be a successful original.

The brand is too difficult.

"It's hard to find a level designer, and can't find a matching factory production, and find a reliable factory willing to make small bills, and can't afford online price wars and replication."

In Japan, 10% of the clothing stores in a shopping mall are designer clothing stores.

Even the designer Yamamoto Teruji is more star than the star, not only the big coffee in the fashion industry, but also the young man's spiritual leader.

"The designer brand in China, with an annual sales volume of $5 million, is very numerous. There are only a few of the three to thirty million, and over 20 billion dollars are good."

Fang Jianhua said.

Where is the original designer brand?

Why does designer brand have such a market in Japan?

Women's wear brands live in the left design director Curson told reporters, there are three main reasons: first, from the design point of view, Japanese fashion designers have gone through the crazy imitation of Europe and the United States, in 70s and 80s they are looking for the Japanese own clothing aesthetics; second, from the operational aspect, Japanese designers can hand over the design to the Japanese clothing group, these clothing consortia have a mature supply chain and channels; third, from the consumer end, the Japanese public has a high degree of acceptance of the designer brand, and there are young people in the street wearing small handicraft clothing.

Compared with Japan, the survival of China's designer brand is poor.

From the creation of Fang Jianhua, especially in the process of incubating life in the left, he has deeply realized four brands in front of the designer's brand.

The first hurdle: designers are too noisy inside.

After participating in the two season "goddess new clothes" program, Fang Jianhua said he had deep feelings.

"Some designers are very bitter, the design style is purely for the stage effect, purely from the perspective of beauty is impeccable, but it has no advantage in practicality and cost performance.

At that time, for the sake of brand exposure, there are some styles that we are also trying hard to shoot. In fact, it is proved that consumers of these styles are not buying at all. Customers who do not buy it are just useless in the lens effect.

Fang Jianhua believes that the most fatal thing is that most Chinese designers are not confident in Chinese culture and are still imitating the style of foreign designers. However, none of the designer brands that advocate foreign culture in China is successful, and the brand with Chinese culture is easier to convince the world.

Second hurdles: the supply chain is damaged.

Of course, China has also produced many excellent designers in recent years, and there are many such niche brands on Taobao.

However, even if their clothes are not lost in design, they will not be able to stand on the table.

Fang Jianhua said, the above result is not that these brands want to cut corners in their work, but because hundreds of people in a garment factory have to eat. The workers pay more by the piece, and the more orders they have, the lower the cost.

In Europe and the United States, there is an unwritten code of conduct in the fashion industry. Buyers will observe the performance of designers for three consecutive seasons, and make sure that the order is made after the stability is ensured.

"This rule is particularly applicable in China, because many designers have no professional team, from quality control, production to fabric and other large and small things have to be arrested by themselves, when a product comes out of a lot of problems, resulting in a version and quality instability."

Fang Jianhua told the billion power network.

Third hurdles: the cost of sales channels is too high.

Fang Jianhua said, the cost of the domestic line is high, and the audience of the designer brand is more dispersed. Therefore, only a few brands, such as JNBY, sketch, tattoo rock and riddle, have established sales channels under the online. Most designer brands are mainly sold by designer buyer shops, but the selling points for the sales are up to 50%.

The fourth way: consumers haven't trained yet.

Not long ago, TOYOTA's high-end brand Lexus asked Yamamoto Teruji, the fashion designer, to be the spokesperson, and the media reported that "because of the appearance of Yamamoto Teruji, Lexus's new product line has won more attention", rather than "Lexus's reputation is even greater."

Under the consumer's perception, even ZARA is so bad that it can't sell well in Japan.

Fang Jianhua said that Japanese consumers recognized their design very much, so that brands such as Muji and Lssey Miyake were born, while Chinese consumers in the upgrading of consumption would have to spend seven or eight more than ten years to cultivate them.

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Living in the left with the mentality of rich daughters.

Despite all the difficulties, Fang Jianhua still wants to hatch the high-end designer brand "living on the left".

Just like what director Jia Zhangke said in the documentary "useless", today's Chinese people's emotional pmission on clothes has been neglected.

In ancient times, clothes were made by mothers to their sons, and their daughters were made to their fathers. The wives did their husbands, which contained deep emotions in them, so there were such sentences as "the mother's hands, the clothes on the swimming bodies".

But now, clothes are pipelined, and there are no feelings to inherit, so people do not cherish it and buy new things every quarter.

At that time, the protagonist of the documentary was named mark only in the circle of designers. Today, mark can gradually enter the public view because of the aura of "the designer of Peng Ma Ma".

Jia Zhangke, the rough northern man, had no sense of fashion and fashion. The original intention of filming "useless" was shocked by the passage of mark.

Living in the left founder Lin Qi has similar feelings.

"When I see many designer brands abroad doing so well and not expensive, I really feel that domestic consumers spend so much money that they can't buy good things."

So in 2014, Lin Yu founded a life on the left, with the successful experience of Yin man and Chu language. Fang Jianhua was prepared to live in the left with the mentality of rich daughter.

As a result, many people suspect that living at the left for more than a year has invested at least 100 million yuan.

Fang Jianhua said that was just a rumor, but the real investment amount was not large, mainly from three conditions.

First, the team is mature and the brand positioning is right.

The three people, Lin Qi, director of design and operation director, have reached a high degree of consistency. The brand culture determined on the first day has never changed.

According to Lin's words, the reason for living in the left is because the heart is on the left side, and the woman's life is moved by heart.

The brand manifesto went through several rounds of heated debate within the team, and finally adopted the phrase "not duplicable manual".

To this end, living in the left team went to Guizhou, Xijiang, Yunnan, Yiliang, Chaozhou and other places in the minority areas, and local artisans to establish a handicraft base, and dozens of silver makers, Xiu Niang, knitting and other artisans to create joint works.

Two, we learned a lot from the operation of Yin man and Chu language.

"Living on the left is grafted on top of group companies, and there is no shortage of entrepreneurship and Internet operation experience."

Lin has participated in the creation of Inman. Before launching his life to the left, he first tried to launch a medium and high-end product, and got better market feedback before deciding on another brand.

The three is to choose the right time.

"If we are to make a living on the left now, I am not sure that I can make it, because now the environment of Tmall is different from that of three years ago.

Three years ago, Tmall didn't have a lot of cards, so we needed to live in a brand like left.

Lin told the billion power network that the new brand's environment in Tmall is getting worse and worse. Apart from the growth of very few brands, most of them are in a "silent" state.

And now, Tmall consumers have a high degree of acceptance of the pre-sale mode, and the left high style is sold in the pre-sale way, so the inventory can be controlled within a reasonable range.

In the end, the result is more successful than Fang Jianhua expected. The sales volume exceeds 100 thousand yuan on the first day of the sale, and the annual repeat purchase rate is 37.5%.

Of course, living on the left is not all smooth sailing. Lin says the hardest part is in the first 1 years.

"Designer brand has two main difficulties at the beginning of its creation. First, it is difficult to find suppliers. The suppliers of Yin man basically make cotton and linen, and live in many styles of silk. Different processes make it impossible for us to share suppliers. We have experienced a period of groping in the left looking for suppliers. Besides, if sales do not come up, many brands will not be able to destroy the brand tonality.

And living at the left is not eager to make profits at the beginning.

How to create designer brand matrix

In addition to living on the left, ememex group currently owns more than 10 independent brands, including Chu Yu, Pass, Qiu Fang, Dali Fang, samyama and so on. At the same time, the main brand of the company is also derived from many kinds of brands, such as home brand HOME, children's wear brand Kid.

Hui Mei Group's brand style map

In Fang Jianhua's strategy, the EMMAN group will become a designer incubator.

"Whether it is self built or acquired, all of our sub brands share a common feature, that is, the style is clear and the tune is perfect. After joining the group, they all maintain the design independence, and can choose to share the group's supply chain, finance, HR, IT management system mode.

Single person to fight a single brand and N individuals to fight N brands, its chemical reaction is different.

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As brand operators get higher and higher cost of traffic and Internet clothing brand achieves 1 billion annual sales, it is very difficult to maintain more than 20% growth rate.

Therefore, Internet brands such as Han Du Yi house, Inman and RC and so on have made great efforts to make sub brands in the past few years with the original resources, and maintained the status of the brand with the growth of the brand matrix.

Compared with other Internet women's brands, Fang Jianhua thinks that there are three different ways to cultivate the sub brands, so the characteristics are different.

One is the partnership system.

There are many brands in Hui Mei Group, which are partners. The person in charge of the brand is the founder and investor.

For example, apart from founder Lin Chi, the designer and director of operations also promoted to brand partners in 2015.

From the employee's point of view, the brand partner is his own boss, and the head of the Korean group is still working.

"The advantage of the panel system is that the replication is strong, and the number of sub brands can be quickly pulled up, while the brand partners are not so easy to find, but once they are found, they will take the operation of the sub brand as their own business and play a more active role."

A person close to Fang Jianhua told reporters.

The founder and partner of Hui Mei Group's brand is Fang Jianhua.

Fang Jianhua told reporters that there are three criteria for finding a designer brand partner.

First, his product has a unique style to impress himself; two, he must invest in himself, whether he is putting in 1 million or 500 thousand, even if he puts all his family into it; and, third, there is a certain pattern, if he has experienced setbacks, it will be better.

"These three points are partners' own needs, and the Hui Mei group can not help him."

Designer brands have their own distinctive personality, Fang Jianhua said that managing partner brand partners needs to give space to each other.

For example, there can be a chance to make mistakes, but there can be no game mentality, and the game will cost a lot of cost in the business.

For example, brand partners have independent financial decisions.

But at the same time, Fang Jianhua will stick to his "bottom line".

"It may take two or three years for a sub brand to hatch successfully, and it may not be profitable during this period. It doesn't matter, but there are two important points. One is how the customer comes back, and the two is whether the brand style is deviated. If these two problems are dangerous, it will be dangerous."

2013 is the most dazzling year for the development of Internet women's wear brand. Tmall's eleven largest women's clothing brand ranking TOP10 has five Internet brands, and occupies the top four.

After a large number of offline brands and overseas brands poured into Tmall, the overall growth rate of Internet women's clothing was not as good as before.

For a while, Fang Jianhua was looking for a breakthrough. Now he is back in a state of excitement. He can talk about designer brand for hours.

 

Figure 2013 data cube monitoring Tmall double eleven ladies category related data

Fang Jianhua said that in 2016, there were several major events in the group: first, the layout of O2O and the thousand city stores; two, the number of brands selling more than 100 million annual sales for more; three, more than 50 Internet brand enterprises started the IPO plan, and the group was one of them, probably the first IPO Internet women's clothing company.

Premier Li Keqiang has also mentioned the spirit of craftsmen many times this year. The government has also caught the trend of brand consumption.

In the next ten years, there will be a big change in the volume of domestic designer brands compared with this year. By then, the gap between domestic brands and Nissan brands will be much smaller. "

Fang Jianhua told reporters that the good days of the Hui Mei Group are yet to come.