Review The 30 Year Suit, Power And Electricity Supplier Of Two Clothing Giants, Shanshan And YOUNGOR
Joe helped the owner to dress up and was emulated by Chinese technology chiefs, even by the fashion editors with their eyes overhead.
Even at the harsh Zhongshan Park corner, uniforms, checker shirts programmers can now get the look of "mother-in-law".
The right to define fashion is always running after idols.
In this sultry summer, Zheng Yonggang listed the first Chinese fir, the first Chinese fir listed in 1996, for the two time.
The garment business was stripped out of Shanshan stock, and Shanshan Brand Operation Co., Ltd. was established alone to land at the Hong Kong stock exchange.
Before that, Zheng Yonggang's fellow villager, YOUNGOR's founder Li Rucheng, decided to return to his old bank, gamble one, throw 10 billion, and spend five years to recreate a YOUNGOR.
They have been in their sixties, and their brands have been known to women and children. Nowadays, there is little sense of existence in the minds of young people.
It is hard to imagine that the thirty years of Shanshan and YOUNGOR are almost half of the history of Chinese fashion.
In today's global business landscape, high-tech entrepreneurs who wear jeans and T-shirts have replaced the financiers and oil tycoons in suits.
Joe helped the owner to dress up and was emulated by Chinese technology chiefs, even by the fashion editors with their eyes overhead.
Even at the harsh Zhongshan Park corner, uniforms, checker shirts programmers can now get the look of "mother-in-law".
Zheng Yonggang and Li Rucheng were both heroic and confused when restarting the drum.
This once familiar territory is being redefined by the Internet, which is full of new concepts such as new retail, black technology, intelligent stores, net red economy, and layer consumption.
The return of the king is full of doubts.
So Young
"Let your own oily head and unclean face, pregnant with a six or seven month pregnant belly, wearing unfit old men's clothing in the combination of urban and rural areas, and step on a pair of leather shoes that have not been polished for one hundred years."
In the spring of three years ago, Hou Hongbin, a female journalist, described the controversial tone of why the Chinese man is so ugly.
However, a neglected event may have to reverse the case for the majority of men. The earliest clothing giant in China was made up of suits and shirts. The helm was the two Ningbo seamstress.
In the late 80s of last century, Zheng Yonggang, the director of the clothing factory, sat down from Ningbo to the Shenzhen train.
He noticed that the person sitting opposite could not wait to put on a suit that he did not know where he came from. His clothes were very old, like crumpled pickles.
Zheng Yonggang saw "longing", like a long drought land, waiting for a good rain, which means great business opportunities.
He returned to Ningbo to start a suit of Shan Shan.
Prior to the founding of Shan Shan, Zheng Yonggang had a military career.
Among Chinese entrepreneurs, there are quite a few of them, such as Liu Chuanzhi of Lenovo, Ren Zhengfei of HUAWEI, and Wang Shi of Vanke.
Acting decisively and tenacious is the deep impression that this experience left on them.
Zheng Yonggang identified the market of Shanshan as domestic.
He was almost the first person to realize the fascination of marketing. In the early 90s, he borrowed 30 thousand yuan to advertise to CCTV.
For a while, the slogan "Shan Shan brand suit" should not be too handsome.
Chinese men who want to be smart are almost as crazy as Zhang Dayi's fans.
Three years later, the insolvent garment factory turned into a profit and a net profit of 270 million.
According to the price of less than 10 yuan at that time, the price of Shan Shan is enough to buy 27 million bottles of flying Moutai, which is almost astronomical.
For this piece of natural history, Zheng Yonggang still has no pride in his memory: "during the short economic period, the Chinese fir suit became a hard currency."
In 1996, Shanshan broke into the stock market and became the first clothing company in China.
But from that year on, capital markets are becoming a gray and speculative adventurer paradise.
In the tailored Ningbo, there are many of Zheng Yonggang's fellow travellers, quite similar to his age. Li Rucheng, one of YOUNGOR's founders, is one of them.
At the end of the 50s, Li family moved from Shanghai to Ningbo. Li Rucheng had an unhappy childhood. He was orphaned at the age of ten. He made straw sandals and made a herd of cattle.
At the end of the 70s, he used a $20 thousand educated youth settlement to open a small workshop in the basement of a small stool in Ningbo, with several rulers and scissors.
In that romantic era, he took a romantic name to the workshop, youth clothing factory.
Li Rucheng is not very good at talking and understated, but he is as good at dancing as Zheng Yonggang.
In mid summer 1990, he worked underground workshop as a Sino foreign joint venture clothing brand YOUNGOR (YOUNGOR).
They invariably chose suits and shirts, which owe much to the northward growth of Hongkong culture under the influence of geopolitical and political factors in the early days of reform and opening up.
Two examples are familiar:
In 1988, Wong Kar Wai, who had just passed away, took a film called "Mong Kok Carmen", which tells about the love and hatred of the street clowns in Mong Kok, Kowloon, Hongkong. The popular film is covered with a color of dispirited, obscurity, obscurity and restlessness.
In the movie, Jacky Cheung, a black fly, dressed in a white suit and exaggerated angrily. After 30 years, he also contributed a fashionable facial expression bag to the mainland.
Two years later, Wong Kar Wai launched the "the tale of a hooligan".
Leslie Cheung played the role of A Fei (Xu Tsai) alienated from debauchery, can be described as a smile and a thousand faces, separated from 28 years, still makes fans "the childish world unparalleled" sigh.
The film reflects the symptoms of the Hongkong era: the happiness of economic take-off, the confusion of being lost in history, the decadence and the disillusioned because of confusion. This is also a portrayal of the mood of the Mainland Youth in the past decades.
From 90s until the beginning of the millennium, Hong Kong films such as Carmen in Mong Kok and the story of a hooligan occupied the dim and humid video room on the corner of the city, and became a textbook of youth's spirit and fashion.
Wearing a hair coat and wearing a khaki or black suit is an irresistible trend.
The utilitarian and mundane business atmosphere and the trend of wind and tide guided by Hongkong and Taiwan movie stars are the soil that YOUNGOR and Shan Shan suits grow vigorously.
In 1997, when the Asian financial crisis hit, the youth idol Shi Yuzhu collapsed for the first time and was saddled with 200 million debt. He fled Zhuhai in a panic, and the giant mansion ended.
However, YOUNGOR, facing the domestic demand, was on the ascendant. It landed on the Shanghai Stock Exchange in 1998, followed by the fir.
At that time, there was no strong enemy, no pursuit of troops, and no window for foreign competitors. Every 12 shirts sold in the market, one of them was YOUNGOR, and the market share of Shan Shan suit was also as high as 37.4%.
If you put it in a larger context, the ZARA parent Inditex, who started in the northern port city of La Coruna, will not be listed until three years later. "Poor tailor" Oman Theo Otago can turn over at the age of 65.
At that time, for ZARA, H&M and UNIQLO, China is still a virgin land.
That year, Liu Qiangdong set up a stall in Zhongguancun, two entrepreneurs who had broken dreams and 18 Luo Han gathered in a Beijing pub to drink and cry.
Intentionally or unintentionally, during the youth years of the clothing retail industry, fate has prepared gifts for them and buried traps.
Please call me financier.
Zheng Yonggang was the first to feel "crisis".
In 1997, Hongkong returned.
China's opening up is already an irreversible river.
After joining the WTO, people will come to play with you, and the high-end market will be monopolized by international brands.
Zheng Yonggang said in an interview with "Oriental entrepreneur".
Between words, he is not proud of his wisdom.
Zheng Yonggang mentioned his idol: "Barton once said," war is hell, but I like war ", hell is suffering, why do I like it, because there is something that makes people happy.
I think "strategizing and winning the battle" is the source of happiness.
In the absence of both of them, Zheng Yonggang chose another track.
He moved the company to Shanghai, found the Ministry of metallurgical industry of the Anshan Thermal Energy Research Institute, Shanshan funded, the other technology to do the development of lithium batteries, this mode is similar to Lenovo play.
For the trend of China's fashion industry, Zheng Yonggang really guessed the beginning.
In 2001, the magic Milu led the Chinese men's football team to enter the world cup in a historic way. After a month, China joined the WTO and entered a rainbow gate.
The Chinese fashion industry with millet plus rifle will be competing with a player who is not an order of magnitude.
From product, design, brand, management, marketing to a powerful and complex supply chain system, almost every aspect of Chinese brand is hard to look forward to the international brand.
This is a great commercial baptism. After ten years, the rules of the game are almost completely defined by international brands.
Esprit is one of the first international brands to eat crabs.
Owning a Esprit skirt has become one of Shanghai's petty bourgeois self proclaimed lifestyle.
"Your best choice is to have a beautiful, stable professional Shanghai girl who doesn't need to be smart enough to buy a Esprit suspending skirt at a department store."
Anne, the writer, writes in a slightly pretentious way in her book.
However, this slightly "carry on" brand tonality was soon replaced by China's fast fashion brands such as UNIQLO, H&M, Zara and so on.
In the early autumn of 2002, UNIQLO opened its first store in Huaihailu Road, Shanghai.
Huaihailu Road is the source of Shanghai's fashion. It is the most beautiful, modern and most accented street in Shanghai.
The old Shanghai people used to call it Xia Fei Road. 100 years ago, it was named after the French Marshal Xia Fei.
5 years later, H&M also opened the China tour from the street covered by this parasol tree.
Zara and MUJI chose another old commercial street in Shanghai, Nanjing road as a starting point.
Like alien invasion, they have absorbed the flow and reduced the dimension of domestic clothing brands.
Extremely fast, creating the ultimate profit for them.
Take Zara as an example, it is known as an annual average listing of over 12000 styles (another is 25 thousand new models per year), with an average of 20 minutes to design a garment.
At the same time, it reduces the time from design to shop window to 2 weeks, which is 6~9 months in traditional brands.
The effect of a lot of money and cheap is obvious. In general fashion brand stores, the annual rate of shops is 3.5 times, while Zara is up to 18 times, which almost subverted the recognition of domestic clothing brands.
Zara and H&M get inspiration from various luxury brand launches, Milan and Paris fashion week to match the current trend.
What is worth pondering is that in foreign countries, Zara and H&M are almost synonymous with "Shanzhai".
Because of alleged plagiarism, every year we need to pay a huge fine to major brands.
But in China, known as "Shanzhai", no brand can "Shanzhai" them.
When Metersbonwe founded its sub brand ME&CITY, it wanted to follow the Zara supply chain, and even went deep into its factory to investigate, but the brand failed to grow as big as possible.
The appetite of the Chinese market really failed to disappoint these brands.
Every city's new shopping center will invite them to open a store.
Until last year, when Zara opened a new store, it did not need to queue up as a selling point.
At that time, not only did Shanghai's white-collar speeches speak English and Chinese, but also the names of Chinese fashion brands, such as Metersbonwe (Metersbonwe), Semir (Semir), NOTTING HILL, KevinKelly and so on.
The phenomenon of brand name is even more annoying. It is said that there are fewer than 70 registered companies with Valentino and various prefixes.
This almost magical consumption phenomenon can not be simply attributed to the irrational mentality of the Chinese people or the psychology of "worshipping foreign elements".
I must admit that China's economy and politics remain passive at that time.
And the rise and fall of fashion itself is a contest of discourse power. In defining "popularity", besides the commercial contest, this power mechanism plays a hidden role in disciplining people's thinking and behavior.
It is embarrassing that the Chinese fir and YOUNGOR have been completely reduced to some old men's wardrobes. They have neither participated in the high-end brand competition, nor have they fallen into the mass market.
But Zheng Yonggang and Li Rucheng seem totally careless. "This round of competition is mainly high-end competition, not the number of wheat, how many clothes to be woven, but the competition of Wall Street."
Zheng Yonggang did not even say arrogant.
In the rivers and lakes of "Wall Street", Zheng Yonggang is known as "shell king".
He plays the same way as KTV sells fruit, goes to the market to buy fruit at a low price, and then sells it at a high price. First, it buys a batch of shell companies, and then pfers them through mergers and acquisitions to enterprises needing backdoor listing.
"Please call me financier."
Zheng Yonggang has made many public remarks in public.
In addition, Shanshan has invested a lot of areas that are totally out of bounds. For instance, rehabilitation hospitals in Pudong will be opened soon, and lots of scenic spots such as Turpan, Guilin and Yao Shan have been signed.
Li Rucheng is also not to be outdone. In YOUNGOR's business, investment and real estate account for a major part.
In terms of investment flavor, it is almost equal to that of Zheng Yonggang.
In January 29, 2017, a tourist in Ningbo zoo was bitten into a garden when he was playing a tiger close to the room.
After investigation, the zoo was invested by YOUNGOR, which is incredible.
Subsequently, he was involved in the "overseas Chinese debt" incident.
Shanshan and YOUNGOR seem to be avoiding competition, but they also miss a chance for a master to take a chance, which wastes the window time to understand young consumers.
Their opponents accumulate potential energy in being beaten, imitated and innovated.
At present, the head enterprises in the clothing industry, Hai Lan's home, Taiping bird, Semir and so on can see the shadow of fast fashion.
Tang Degang said well that the situation is stronger than man.
Who would have thought that ten years later, Zheng Yonggang and Li Rucheng would be anxious to go all night to rush back to their old clothes? Only when they returned, even the track changed.
Internet definition rules
However, when Zheng Yonggang and Li Rucheng did not understand that clothing retailing was 2, another beautiful new world had arrived.
One day in April 2010, many city bus shelters were occupied by a fresh advertisement: "love the Internet, love freedom, love late, love big night partners, love 29 pieces of T-Shirt, I am not the flag bearer, not the endorsement of anyone, I am Han Han, I only represent myself.
Like you, I am a guest. "
At that time, there was no "net red". Han Han's identity was a writer.
He and goddess Xu Jinglei occupied the top two of Sina blog traffic for a long time.
An unfamiliar clothing electricity supplier has been born in such a way.
Founder Chen became the hottest Internet star of the year.
After completing the fifth round of financing, Chen even told reporters in an ambitious way: "I hope to buy LV in the future."
From the point of view of financing mode, van guest is almost the first pure Silicon Valley style Internet Co to burn with money, which is totally different from that of Shanshan YOUNGOR.
In 2010, fan sold 30 million shirts, almost 5 times more than YOUNGOR's.
It is said that after a visit to a customer, a clothing business owner sighed with emotion: "we are dealing with sales and gross profit margins.
Unfortunately, Chen did not become a subversive, and he lost to common sense.
By the end of 2011, customers were in crisis.
For the first time, Chen felt that he was sick and ran to the warehouse.
He saw many kinds of goods, and there were 190 thousand kinds of products, including kitchen knives and mops.
He frowned and asked young subordinates, "who will come to our website to buy mops?" by 2014, the inventory burden of van customers has reached 1 billion 900 million.
It took more than two years to get out of the mire, but it was hard for customers to wake up consumers again.
"Inventory! Inventory! Remember, inventory and turnover is the only line of life for a brand."
At an entrepreneur forum, Chen told the hundreds of young people below.
But anyway, every guest is a textbook class case.
Since then, many latecomers have found the new continent along its path.
In the same year when everyone was in trouble, the Alibaba, who later became a subversive business giant, suffered from the darkest moment in the development process. Whether it was "Alipay storm" or "besieged in October", it was a headache for Ma Yun.
Because this company is big enough and almost everywhere, we often neglect the way it comes.
In hindsight, none of this has become a stumbling block for Ali's growth.
After double eleven in 2011, Ma changed the name of Taobao mall to Tmall, which sounds like a pet product, and renamed the "online shopping Carnival" as "shopping Carnival".
In his "thirty years of agitation", Wu Xiaobo specifically pointed out the details: the difference between one word and the other is the determination of Ali to attack the retail format in an all-round way.
In October 2016, Ma Yun put forward the concept of "new retail" at an event, and the dull industry started a thunder.
"Everyone is qualified to talk about new retail, except Ma Yun."
However, in questioning and controversies, public opinion finally went to worship the times, and even scrambled for his concept.
A basic consensus is gradually being reached, and technology is being made.
clothing
Retail, an ancient business form, is becoming sexy, charming and imaginative.
In the same year, after nearly 20 years of listing, Li Rucheng, chairman of YOUNGOR group, 65, decided to return to the garment industry.
Investment 10 billion, "five years to rebuild a YOUNGOR."
He wore a neat black suit and announced it in a high-profile Fashion Festival in China.
He put forward his five new strategy, like Ma Yun, new materials and new technologies.
Fabric
New technology, new brand and new service.
It was said that, for the plan, he invited Armani's designer to fly for more than ten hours to visit the fabric supplier in Europe.
Like many Chinese brands, YOUNGOR also takes the strategy of "second tier and siege line", and YOUNGOR's home in Wuxi opens first.
The total purchase and decoration of the store is 300 million yuan, while the annual sales forecast is only 20 million, which is only enough depreciation fee. This is only the sales of the net red Zhang Dayi that can be produced in a factory for two hours in the urban fringe of Hangzhou.
At the end of June this year, garment business was stripped from Shanshan stock and listed separately.
However, the Shan Shan suit has no sense of existence at all. The annual sales volume is less than 800 million. The home of Hai Lan, which once was not in the eyes of Shan Shan, is 18 billion 200 million.
For the Internet, Zheng Yonggang once called himself "the boss of traditional enterprises", and knew little about the combination of online and offline businesses.
This is arrogant and helpless.
Li Rucheng and Zheng Yonggang almost returned to their old counterparts at the same time.
The capital market is always unpredictable. Even on the Liberation Road south of Ningbo, Xu Xiang, the "private brother" and the famous "death penalty squads" have vanish.
Under the bleak trend of the stock market, Li Rucheng's glory is hard to come back.
As for the real estate sector, YOUNGOR has no more than ten billion revenue for two consecutive years. It is in the second half of the TOP200 housing market. With the tightening of policy, it is hard for us to do anything.
Zheng Yonggang and his "advance and retreat", after experiencing the failure of Xinhua dragon shell sales, was also hindered in the operation of Jiang Quan industry, twice being questioned by the Shanghai Stock Exchange.
Under strict supervision, the "shell king" days are not easy.
On the other hand, thanks to subsidies from governments at various levels in the past few years, the capacity of the new energy industry, including lithium batteries, has been severely overloaded.
Zhang Quanling, dressed in YOUNGOR, once appeared in Milan with Li Rucheng.
In addition to the former CCTV host and investor, she is also a wise marketing consultant for YOUNGOR.
Li Rucheng firmly believes in the Chinese market.
fashion
The pmission mechanism will reproduce the traditional path of the European and American markets: the public will follow every move of the idols in various fields, thus changing the fashion.
There may be no mistake, but this idol is not the other idol.
They may not realize that Jobs and Zuckerberg are wearing the Geek dressing style day after day, the T-shirt with clear noodle, the simple jeans, which are like one hundred years without changing, but what is meant by the popularity of fashion editors all over the world, including their eyes overhead.
"The color of legend is the aura of fame."
Coco channel said once and for all.
This is the era of "0 and 1". Idols are shifting, wealth is shifting, the right to define fashion is shifting, and the rules of the retail industry are being redefined by them.
"The environment of fashion retailing is very difficult now."
Ryui Masa, founder of UNIQLO, once said anxiously that the giants felt "pressure mountain" in the attack and turbulence.
In order to make new draught pigs, pioneering entrepreneurs are racking their brains. Programmers exhaust their code and pick up orders from more and more picky consumers' purse.
This is obviously quite different from the operation of opening 1000 YOUNGOR homes on commercial streets in various cities. It is not lying on the concept of "consumption upgrading".
The return of the king is full of doubts.
As early as the Spring Festival of 2012, Li Rucheng held a press conference in Ningbo. In the face of dozens of news media reporters, after explaining the future vision, the current intention and the company's plan, suddenly another line came up: "I am tired of heart, I just want to make the existing industry well and smoothly hand over to the successor.
Now my biggest wish is to find a place with mountains and water, build a house, and sail on the lake every day, including the sun and the world.
No matter whether the tiredness is due to force or age, it is obvious that entrepreneurs have their own times, and there is a period of preservation. Few people can avoid reefs at every turning point and continue to pilot.
Business and life are so cruel.
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