Visually Gluttonous, See How Beautiful The Costumes Of The Qing Dynasty Are From The "Jubilee".

Photo of "Jubilee"

The broadcast of the "Jubilee strategy" has created a cultural craze. The costumes and the unique accessories of the play have brought back a large number of intangible cultural heritage in China to the public view.

The original traditional costumes can also be so beautiful that they are accustomed to all kinds of foreign fashion show.

Clothing color matching.

In the play, the clothes of a concubine of imperial concubines, such as Fu Tcha, and so on, are a great match in the Qing Dynasty's palace, bringing a "high grey ancient costume feast" to the audience.

Photo of "Jubilee"

Such a low-key color matching makes it difficult to link it with the noble and proud court role, but instead associates the gray tones of bottles and cans that Italy painter George Morandi loves.

In fact, on the contrary, according to historical records, the color matching of clothing in the Qianlong period of Qing Dynasty is indeed elegant and elegant.

Photo of "Jubilee"

Speaking of the concubine dress in the imperial palace of Qing Dynasty, from formal to leisure, it can be divided into dress, gown, regular clothes and casual clothes.

Apart from major festivals, ceremonies, and other ceremonial occasions, they need to wear formal gowns and costumes. Most of the concubines in the palace wear dark stones and blue clothes for most of the time.

Casual clothes are casual wear, usually worn in their own palace, but still in the majority of elegant colors.

Women's clothing in Qing Dynasty

Cloud shoulder.

Cloud shoulder, also called shawl, is an ancient decorative fabric placed on the shoulders. It was originally used to keep the necklines and shoulders clean, and gradually evolved into a decoration, made of colorful embroidery, which is a unique style of Han nationality's clothing culture.

Until the Qing Dynasty, the shoulder of the cloud had been popularized to all social strata and became an indispensable dress for young women.

The shoulder of later generations is more than the age of age or marriage.

Portrait of a woman in the Qing Dynasty

Out of the policy of "ten from ten not to obey", women's clothing in Qing Dynasty was divided into two types: Manchu and Han.

The cloud shoulder is part of the Han costume, though popular, but rarely seen in the flag.

Most of the concubines in the palace are dressed in the mashups of the Manchu Han Dynasty if they appear on cloud shoulders.

Portrait of Queen of Daoguang

Double layer lotus cloud shoulder handed down in kind (left), "Jubilee strategy" stills (right)

In the play, Queen Fu was dressed in cloud shoulder as she dressed as a god of dance.

In this plot, the characters not only highly restored the image of the "Luo Shen Tu" in the Yuan Dynasty, but also adorn the shoulders of the Qing Dynasty on the hot blue shoulders, showing the beauty of the harmony and introverted beauty of traditional culture.

Comparison of cloud shoulder and handed down objects in "Jubilee"

Peacock feather line.

The peacock feather line in Wei Luo Luo's mouth is very impressive.

In fact, such precious silk thread is real, and indeed it is as golden as it says.

The garments made from this silk thread can still maintain their original fine colors for centuries.

Fragments in the play of Jubilee

It is reported that in the Wanli calendar of the Wanli years that had faded, only 17 dragons were still bright and colorful, and they were shining brightly, because they used the real gold thread and the silk thread wrapped peacock feather to make the raw material.

Peacock feather embroidered pearl embroidered Yunlong gown gown

Peacock fur, also known as "sparrow gold fur", its material is "peacock wool knitted".

In the early Qing Dynasty, Ye Mengzhu's "read the world compiling" has such a paragraph: "now peacock hair is woven into satin, known as Mao Jin, flowers are more gorgeous, each piece is only twelve feet, worth silver fifty plus two."

Peacock feathered seeds, embroidered civilian five products, white stripes complement (a pair)

Peacock feather fabric

In the dream of Red Mansions, the sparrow coat made up of Baoyu in Qingwen disease is made of Russian peacock feather.

In the play, Baoyu accidentally burnt a hole in the dress. The moon was busy quietly getting out to ask people to darn up.

Fortunately, Jing Wen was clever and ingenious, and he was able to patch up all night in a serious illness.

A dream of Red Mansions

Velvet flower.

The imperial concubines are elegant and unique velvet headgear, which touches a lot of grey clothes.

The delicate fleshy velvet flowers are often called "succulent plants" by many viewers. They are rare and rare accessories in the past Qing palace dramas. They are precious intangible cultural heritages in China. They were once fashionable treasures in the Ming and Qing Dynasties.

In ancient Chinese records, the queen of Fu Cha was "decorating velvet flowers as a decoration and not wearing pearls and jade" on weekdays.

Velvet ornaments in the "Jubilee"

In a dream of Red Mansions, we also referred to the girls in the Grand View Garden, who made "the new method of making flowers in the palace".

According to textual research, the Palace Flower here is Nanjing velvet flower.

Velvet ornaments in the "Jubilee"

Velvet flower began in the Tang Dynasty, homonym "glory", is the representative of China's rich culture.

According to legend, as early as the Tang Dynasty, Wu Zetian was listed as a tribute to the royal family. The Ming and Qing dynasties had more specifications, and the period between Kangxi and Qian Long was the most prosperous period.

Velvet flowers are mainly worn during the Spring Festival, Dragon Boat Festival, Mid Autumn Festival and wedding wedding.

In 2006, Nanjing velvet flower was listed as the intangible cultural heritage of Jiangsu province.

Velvet ornaments in the "Jubilee"

And this seemingly small object, the production process is very complicated, and needs dyeing, softening brass wire, hook, point, flower and so on nearly ten processes.

We should use pliers to put the red, pink, yellow and green silk into silk and turn into flowers, persimmons, Yuanbao, Ruyi, red crowned cranes and other shapes.

It is reported that the velvet flower headwear in the play is based on the Imperial Palace's velvet flowers collection, and is produced by Zhao Shuxian, a non heritage producer in Nanjing.

Velvet production process

Dian Cui.

Different from the lively and beautiful velvet flowers, the appearance of the jade ornament adds a cool and aloof temperament to the characters in the play.

Point jade craft is a traditional Chinese gold and silver jewelry making process, it appeared in the Han Dynasty.

As an auxiliary work in jewelry production, it plays an important role in decorating gold and silver jewelry.

The development of dot green technology reached its peak during the Qing Dynasty Kangxi, Yong Zheng and Qian Long, and it was popular to the late Qing Dynasty and even the Republic of China.

The jade ornaments in the "Jubilee"

Cui, that is Cui Yu, Kingfisher feather.

Point Cui is a combination of traditional Chinese metal craft and feather craft. It needs first to make different patterns of base with gold or gold plated metal, and then carefully insert the bright blue feathers on the back of the kingfisher to make all kinds of jewelry.

Jade ornaments in ancient paintings

Nowadays, there are many jade ornaments in the the Imperial Palace Museum, and we can even see the feather patterns of Kingfisher.

It is hard for people to lament its fine manufacturing. We can see that our ancestors had done a lot of hard work for beauty.

The Phoenix Phoenix flower head (left), the Tsui Tsui chrysanthemum pattern head flower (right), is hidden in the the Imperial Palace Museum.

One ear and three tongs.

According to the book, Qianlong attached great importance to "one ear and three tongs" in history, that is, one ear wore three holes and wore three tongs.

This custom has been observed from the forty years of Qianlong to the end of the Qing Dynasty. The red wedding ceremony of the great wedding ceremony during the Guangxu period also recorded the crown dress of the Queen's "Earrings around three, each with the dragon dragon and the East Pearl two" during the wedding ceremony.

"Jubilee strategy" to the palace, to the imperial concubines and even the empress dowager, without exception, follow the rules of one ear and three pliers.

One ear three pincers in "Jubilee"

In the Qing Dynasty, the basic form of "one ear and three pliers" was fixed, but it was slightly different in detail depending on class differences.

If the rich are gold, silver, jade and jade, the poor will be filled with copper rings.

Although the imperial concubines and folk girls are all wearing makeup, the empress will wear three string beads, while the maid wears only a string of Eastern beads and two circles.

"One ear and three pliers" costumes in "Jubilee"

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Speaking of Chinese traditional embroidery techniques, seed embroidery, hand embroidered embroidery, bead embroidery, plate embroidery and so on are all revealed in the "Jubilee strategy", and the technology of the silk which developed from the Song Dynasty has made netizens admire constantly.

Exquisite craftsmanship in Yan Juan Raiders

"Silk", also known as "silk", is a Chinese tradition.

The essence of works of art.

Since Song and Yuan Dynasties, it has been one of the Royal fabrics, often used for weaving post emperor costumes, imitating celebrities, calligraphy and painting, etc.

Because of its complex and exquisite technology, it often enjoys the prestige of "one inch of silk, one inch of gold" and "saint of weaving".

Zhu Kerou's Liantang duck picture (part), silk, Song Dynasty

In fact, silk is not really carved with a knife, but rather by a knife.

For warp threads, colored silk is used as weft, and plain weave fabric is made by warp weft insertion.

Because all kinds of weft threads are interwoven with warp threads only at the point where the patterns need to be interwoven and do not pass through the whole width, there are some break marks between fabric patterns and plain, color and color, similar to those of knife carving.

Wire spinning machine in "Jubilee"

After the Song Dynasty, the development of the silk industry center was moved to Suzhou area until the Qing Dynasty. There were up to 6000 colors of colored weft.

The famous calligraphy and paintings copied by the silk thread method are exquisite and vivid.

At that time, silk was often used for scroll mounting and book cover. It is a treasure in traditional Chinese art.

The silk palace fan in the Jubilee

Traditional culture, as a trace of the development and existence of a nation in the long history, not only possesses eternal aesthetic charm, but also represents the source of a nation's cultural centripetal force to some extent.

Because of this, whenever we feel the charm of traditional culture inadvertently, the pride and endless warmth will always arise. This is probably the cultural identity hidden in the hearts of every nation.

[editor, Wen / Zang Nan]

[producer / Qi chao]