Textile Basic Knowledge: Dedicated To Textile Novice

First,

Commonly used calculation formulas are divided into two types: fixed length calculation formula and fixed weight calculation formula.

1, the formula of fixed length system:

(1), Daniel (D): D=g/L*9000, where G is the weight of silk, and L is the length of silk thread.

(2), Tex (number) [tex (H)]: tex=g/L*1000, where G is the weight of yarn (or silk), and L is the length of yarn (or silk).

(3) dtex: dtex=g/L*9000, G is the weight of silk thread, and L is the length of silk thread.

2. The formula for determining weight.

(1), metric count (N): N=L/G, where G is the weight of yarn (or silk), and L is the length of yarn (or silk).

(2), British system counts (S): S=L/ (G*840), where G is the weight of the silk thread (pound), and L is the length of the silk thread (code).

Two. The conversion formula for textile units is:

(1) the conversion formula of metric count (N) and Daniel (D): D=9000/N

(2) the conversion formula between the British count (S) and Daniel (D): D=5315/S

(3) the conversion formula of dtex and Tex (Tex): 1tex=10dtex

(4) the conversion formula between tex and Daniel (D): tex=D/9

(5), the conversion formula of Tex (Tex) and British count (S): tex=K/S K value: pure cotton yarn, K=583.1 purified fiber K=590.5 polyester cotton yarn K=587.6 K=587.6 cotton yarn (75:25) K=584.8 dimensional cotton yarn (50:50) K=587.0

(6) the conversion formula between tex and metric number (N): tex=1000/N

(7) the conversion formula between dtex and Daniel (D): dtex=10D/9

(8), the conversion formula of dtex and S (dtex=10K/S): dtex=10K/S K value: pure cotton yarn, K=583.1 purified fiber K=590.5 polyester cotton yarn K=587.6 K=587.6 cotton viscose yarn (75:25) K=584.8 dimensional cotton yarn (50:50) K=587.0

(9) the conversion formula of dtex and metric count (N): dtex=10000/N

(10) the conversion formula between metric centimeter centimeter (CM) and inch inch (inch): 1inch=2.54cm

(11) the conversion formula of metric rice (M) and British Standard Code (YD): 1 yards =0.9144 meters.

(12) the conversion formula for square Mick weight (g/m2) and m (m/m) of satin Square: 1m/m=4.3056g/m2

(13) the conversion formula of the actual weight and weight of silks and satin is: pound weight (LB) = weight per meter (g/m) *0.9144 (m/yd) *50 (YD) /453.6 (g/yd).

Three, detection methods:

1. Hand feeling method: this method is suitable for textile raw materials with loose fiber status.

(1) cotton fiber is better than ramie fiber and others.

The process fibers and wool fibers are short and thin, often with various impurities and defects.

(2) hemp fiber feels coarse and hard.

(3) wool fibers are curly and elastic.

(4) silk is filament, long and thin, with special luster.

(5) in the chemical fiber, only the viscose fiber has great difference in the dry and wet state.

(6) spandex filament has very large elasticity, and its length can stretch to more than five times at room temperature.

2. Microscopic observation: it is based on the longitudinal and sectional characteristics of fibers to identify fibers.

(1), cotton fiber: cross section shape: waist round, middle waist; longitudinal form: flat belt, natural rotation.

(2), hemp (ramie, linen, jute) fiber: cross section shape: waist round or polygonal, with middle cavity; vertical form: cross section, vertical grain.

(3) wool fiber: cross section shape: round or approximately circular, some have hair pulp; longitudinal form: surface scales.

(4) rabbit hair fiber: cross section shape: dumbbell type, hair pulp; longitudinal form: surface scales.

(5) mulberry silk fiber: cross section shape: irregular triangle; vertical form: smooth and straight, longitudinal stripes.

(6) ordinary viscose: cross section form: zigzag, skin core structure; longitudinal form: longitudinal trench.

(7), rich and strong fibers: cross section shape: less teeth shape, or round, oval; longitudinal surface: smooth surface.

(8) acetate fiber: cross-sectional shape: three leaf or irregular serrated; longitudinal surface: longitudinal stripes on the surface.

(9) acrylic fiber: cross section shape: round, dumbbell or leaflike; longitudinal surface: smooth or streak on the surface.

(10), polyvinyl chloride fiber: cross section shape: nearly circular; longitudinal surface shape: smooth surface.

(11), spandex fiber: cross section form: irregular shape, round, potato shape; longitudinal surface shape: surface dark deep, is not clear bone stripe.

(12) polyester, nylon, polypropylene fiber: cross section shape: round or irregular; longitudinal form: smooth.

(13), vinylon fiber: cross section shape: waist round, skin core structure; longitudinal form: 1~2 root grooves.

3, density gradient method: it is based on different fibers with different density characteristics to identify fibers.

(1) with density gradient solution, xylene tetrachloride system is generally adopted.

(2) calibration of density gradient tube is usually a precise ball method.

(3) determine and calculate the fiber to be deoiled, dried, defoaming and pretreated, then pellet is put into balance, and fiber density is measured according to the position of fiber suspension.

4, fluorescence method: using ultraviolet fluorescent lamp to irradiate the fiber, according to the different properties of different fibers, the fluorescence color of fiber is also different characteristics to identify fiber.

The fluorescent colors of various fibers are shown in detail.

(1) cotton and wool fiber: light yellow.

(2) mercerized cotton fiber: light red.

(3) jute fiber: purple brown.

(4) jute, silk, nylon fiber: light blue.

(5) viscose fiber: white purple shadow.

(6) light viscose fiber: pale yellow purple shadow.

(7) polyester fiber: white light blue sky light.

(8) vinylon bright fiber: pale yellow purple shadow.

5, burning method: according to the chemical composition of the fiber, the combustion characteristics are also different, thus roughly dividing the fiber category.

The combustion characteristics of several common fibers are identified as follows:

(1) cotton, linen, viscose, copper ammonia fiber: near flame: no shrinkage or melting; contact flame: rapid combustion; leave flame: continue to burn; smell: burn paper smell; residue characteristics: a little gray black or gray ash.

(2), silk and wool fibers: close to the flame: curl and melt; contact flame: crimp, melt, burn; leave the flame: slow burning and sometimes self extinguish; odour: burning hair odour; residue characteristics: loose and crisp black particles or coke.

(3) polyester fiber: near flame: melt; contact flame: melt, smoke, slow burning; leave flame: continue to burn, sometimes self extinguish; odour: special aromatic sweetness; residue characteristics: hard black round beads.

(4) nylon fiber: near flame: melt; contact flame: melting, smoking; leaving flame: self extinguishing; odour: amino flavor; residue characteristics: hard, light brown pparent round beads.

(5), acrylic fiber: close to flame: melt; contact flame: melt, smoke; leave the flame: continue to burn, smoke black; smell: pungent flavor; residue characteristics: Black irregular beads, fragile.

(6), polypropylene fiber: close to flame: melt; contact flame: melting, burning; leave flame: continue to burn; odour: wax flavor; residue characteristics: gray white pparent pparent beads.

(7), spandex fiber: near flame: melt; contact flame: melting, burning; leaving flame: self extinguishing; odour: special taste; residue characteristics: white colloid.

(8), polyvinyl chloride fiber: close to flame: melt; contact flame: melting, burning, emitting black smoke; leaving flame: self extinguishing; odor: pungent odor; residue characteristics: dark brown lump.

(9), vinylon fiber: close to flame: melt; contact flame: melting, burning; leave flame: continue to burn, smoke black; odour: unique fragrance; residue characteristics: irregular burnt tea hard lump.

Four, textile commonly used concepts:

1, warp, warp, warp density - fabric length direction; the yarn is called warp yarn; the number of yarn arranged in 1 inches is density (warp density).

2, weft, weft, weft density -- fabric width direction; the yarn is called weft, and the yarn number in 1 inches is weft density (weft density).

3, density -- used to indicate the number of yarns in the unit length of woven fabric, generally the number of yarns in 1 inches or 10 centimeters. China's national standard stipulates that the density of the yarns in 10 cm is used to indicate density, but textile enterprises are still used to express the density by using the number of yarns in 1 inches.

For example, "45X45/108X58" usually shows 45 warp yarns, and the warp and weft density is 108 and 58 respectively.

4, width - effective width of fabric, commonly used in inches or centimeters, common 36 inches, 44 inches, 56-60 inches, etc., are known as narrow, medium and wide width, 60 inches tall fabric for special width, commonly known as wide cloth. Today, the width of our special width fabric can reach 360 centimeters.

The width is generally marked behind the density, for example, the fabric mentioned in 3: if the width is added, it means "45X45/108X58/60", that is, the width is 60 inches.

5, gram weight -- the weight of the fabric is generally the gram weight of the weight of the fabric, and the gram weight is an important technical index of the knitted fabric. The woolen woolen usually takes the weight as an important technical index.

The weight of jeans is usually expressed as "OZ", that is, the ounce weight of fabric per square yard, such as 7 ounces, 12 ounces denim, etc.

6, yarn dyed -- Japan is called "first dyed fabric". It refers to the process of dyeing yarn and filament first and then using colored yarn to make weaving. The fabric is called "yarn dyed fabric", and the factory that produces yarn dyed fabric is commonly called dyeing and weaving factory, such as denim, and most of the lining fabrics are dyed fabrics.

Five. Classification of textile fabrics:

1. Classification according to different processing methods

(1), woven fabric: fabrics made of two systems perpendicular to each other, horizontal and vertical, and woven on the loom according to certain rules.

There are denim, brocade, board, linen and so on.

(2) knitted fabric: weft knitted and warp knitted fabric formed by weaving yarns into yarns.

A and weft knitted fabric are weft fed from the weft to the work needle of the knitting machine, so that the yarn is bent in sequence and formed into one another.

B and warp knitted fabrics are made of one or more sets of yarns arranged parallel to each needle of the knitting machine.

(3) nonwovens: loose fibers are bonded or sutured.

At present, there are two methods of adhesion and puncture.

This method can greatly simplify the technological process, reduce the cost and increase the labor productivity, and has broad prospects for development.

2. Classification of yarns according to fabric composition.

(1) pure Textile: the raw materials of fabric are made of the same kind of fiber, including cotton fabric, wool fabric, silk fabric, polyester fabric and so on.

(2) blended fabric: two or more than two different kinds of fibers are made of raw materials, which are made from blended yarn and have polyester, viscose, polyester, nitrile, polyester and cotton blended fabrics.

(3) blended fabric: the raw material of the fabric is made of single yarn of two kinds of fibers, which is made of ply yarn. It is made of low elastic polyester filament and medium length mixed yarn, and polyester short fiber and low elastic polyester filament blended into ply yarn.

(4) interwoven fabric: the two directions of the fabric are made of different fiber yarns, silk and rayon interwoven ancient satin, nylon and neon interwoven with synthetic cotton.

3. Classification of fabrics according to whether they are dyed or not.

(1), white fabrics: raw materials without bleaching and dyeing are processed into fabrics, and silk knitted fabrics are also known as raw fabrics.

(2) yarn dyed fabric: the raw materials or fancy lines after bleaching and dyeing are processed into fabric, and silk is also known as "ready to wear" fabric.

4. Classification of new fabrics

(1) adhesive cloth: two pieces of cloth that are back to back are bonded together.

Bonded fabrics, knitted fabrics, nonwoven fabrics, vinyl plastic films, etc., can be combined in different combinations.

(2), flocking processing cloth: the fabric is covered with short and dense fiber fluff, with velvet style, can be used for clothing and decorative materials.

(3) foam plastic laminated fabric: it adheres to the woven fabric or knitted fabric on the bottom cloth, mostly used as cold proof clothing.

(4) coated fabric: it is coated with polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and chloroprene rubber on the bottom cloth of knitted fabric or knitted fabric. It has superior waterproof function.