Should The Minimalism Of The Luxury Industry Be Abandoned?

In the fashion week of Paris that was not long before, Hedi Slimane's CELINE new season costumes finally appeared in a series of mixed arguments.

Behind the commentary of new netizens who sob the new CELINE "eventually changed from Faye Wong's wardrobe to Nicholas Tse's Wardrobe", the luxury goods industry began to think more and even covet: when Phoebe Philo's vast territory earned in the old era of C line, after Hedi Slimane "invisible abandonment", who can "take advantage of the situation to occupy" this treasure land.

But in fact, is this "treasure land" absolutely existing now? The answer may not be as simple as "2-1=1".

In the same season, the new creative director has changed the brand name of CELINE instead of the brand name. Among the familiar brands, the old fashion brand BURBERRY of the United Kingdom is different from the radical change of Hedi Slimane. In the latest season, Riccardo Tisci did not adjust much to the classical elements, outlines and tailoring styles of BURBERRY, but used many new prints and added a few punk elements.

However, the "road" may not be the same. After the show, the market has different opinions on the safety card of Riccardo Tisci: Although this change is "intimate" to the BURBERRY fans, the lack of impact and topic also means that the market potential can not really be opened.

The two male design directors, who are known as "ghost talents", have made two very different attempts to reform. The outcome seems not perfect, but it is enough to reflect the "change mentality" mentality of the fashion industry.

Their "face test" burned to the most terminal products, and also tested the preference of the new generation of fashion customers, perhaps in another evolution.

Although many people may not agree with it, in recent years, with the trend of retro wind and street style, the trend of minimalist fashion with "practical", "logo less" and "anti brand" style has been slowly eroded.

Before CELINE and BURBERRY, in 2015, the "big change face" of GUCCI, which was operated by Alessandro Michele, can also support the above views in a certain sense.

This creative genius almost completely subverted the practice of "slightly modifying and increasing" GUCCI's "classic design" from 2010 to 2015 in the fashion show, which was called "the biggest topic of fashion circles" in the year. Instead, it chose "not to stick to the present moment, to explore the blurred zone between" no more repetition "and" not yet happen ". This classic quotation from Alessandro Michele seems to be the voice of many famous operators who want to find breakthroughs at the moment.

With the continuous participation of Internet technology and the continuous renovation of consumer demand, the products and topics of the fashion industry may have to learn the "exploration method" of Alessandro Michele. After continually testing the "water temperature" of fuzzy zones, we can rush to the larger market cake.

At the moment, there are two main factors that affect the "exploration results": new people and old traditions.

Newcomers refer to the "big millennial generation" that the big players need to face now. They are the crowd born in the outbreak of the Internet, advocating individuality expression, for the trend and

They all have their own judgement standard, and their desire and ability to purchase are rising year by year. Catering to the aesthetic standards of this group has become the theme of many big names day and night. The marketing plan will take more channels for young people to contact frequently, and the design direction will also be biased.

In recent two years, the rise of street fashion and sports revival has nothing to do with their choices.

The old tradition refers to the big brands who have gone through a long period of time, with cultural and spiritual glory, which is the reason why the big name is known as "big card", and also the high embodiment of the "branding" effect of the commodity.

So we can see how Alessandro Michele advocates innovation, and never give up GUCCI's proud saddle belt and ribbon ribbon logo.

It is not a simple matter to deal with the relationship between inheritance tradition and innovation breakthrough.

In the past two years, the big brand has sought to break through the rotation of the design class, the creative director, which can be regarded as a "buffer" way to reconcile the two demands. However, it is difficult to achieve the desired effect by "excessive exertion" or "lack of strength", such as the CELINE and BURBERRY in this season.

In the high degree of commercialization of large cards

Although "fashion is fleeting and style is perpetually", it also needs to take care of the pressure of survival and operation. This is not a "helplessness" or a "betrayal", but a necessity of competition.

The practical and elegant minimalism will never be "out of date" in the field of design, but the evolution of style also has its cycle of ups and downs. At least for the last two years, it may be dubbed by the "downgrading of consumption".