The British Luxury Brand Burberry Shows Different Styles.

A fashion show presents two very different styles, Italy.

Riccardo Tisci finally took a bold step in the second series of Burberry.

British luxury brands

It released 2019 autumn winter series in London at 1 a.m. Beijing time on February 18th, and was broadcast live through WeChat applet for the first time. After the show, Burberry February B Series limited the single product "Title" limited to handbag.

WeChat boutique has been released for 24 hours within a limited time, and the deadline has been sold out.

It is noteworthy that Burberry showed two totally different scenes and music during the live show, which made the audience of the internet think that the signal was wrong.

But in fact, this is a deliberate arrangement by Riccardo Tisci.

Last September, when Riccardo Tisci released its first Burberry debut, the second series of Burberry 2019 autumn and winter series of its operations were based on the theme of "Tempest storm", inspired by the streets and aristocratic fashion of London in the 90s of last century, and Riccardo Tisci was also studying at the Saint Martin School of art in London, England.

In order to highlight the antagonism between the street and the nobility, the whole show is divided into two parts. On the other hand, it is opened by the super model Gigi Hadid. The products are filled with sports sweaters with TB signs, loose pants, hoodies and sports shoes. The opening model on the other side is Natalia Vodianova. She is dressed in the classic elegant windbreaker, shirt and pleated skirt of the Burberry brand.

Burberry is located in the Tat Museum of Contemporary Art on the Thames River in London. It is also divided into two different spaces. One is decorated as a golden palace and a magnificent palace. The other is a silver hand scaffolding. Hundreds of London teenagers climb on the scaffolding and cheer constantly.

The 44 year old Riccardo Tisci said in an interview after the show that his main purpose in Burberry's first series was to develop new alphabets for brands, and now he will start putting these letters together to write a new chapter in Burberry.

In his new series of notes, he stressed that London Fashion in the 90s was a class carnival with street jackets and trunks, as well as aristocratic suits and coats. "I have been thinking about how these elements coexist from class distinction to pursuit of freedom."

Before the show, Riccardo Tisci specially invited director Marc Isaacs to make a documentary film "On The Street". In the streets of England, the customers interviewed the impression of Burberry on the street. Some said they liked everything about Burberry, and some young consumers said they had not heard of Burberry, which might be one of the reasons why the Riccardo was especially set up for young people.

Overall, the Burberry 2019 autumn winter series aims at four different consumer groups, girls and boys, as well as women and boys.

Riccardo Tisci explains that the younger generation is now communicating with different people, some are sensitive to price, others are paying attention to demand, which is of great significance to their future creativity.

But for Riccardo Tisci's slightly split fashion show, the industry's evaluation also tends to the two extreme points.

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New York Times analyst Adam Tschorn believes that it is a good trend for Riccardo Tisci to decompose a series into two parts. No matter it is right or not, it means that the designer is working hard to find a new way for Burberry. Under the suppression of street culture, people are eager for the real storm to come.

But there are also people in the industry who think that the new series of Burberry is puzzling, including dividing the show into two different spaces to highlight the difference of grade. The brutal fact of the industry is that people are more willing to receive clear and bright signals.

In fact, looking back at the designer career of Riccardo Tisci, it is easy to find that the fashion critics' view of their first series of Burberry playing "safety cards" may be a misunderstanding.

In the 12 years of Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci has opened up a new era for the brand. Before the street corner invaded the luxury sector, many explosions, including dog T-shirts and so on, were launched by young consumers. Givenchy has become one of the most fashionable luxury brands.

According to the world clothing and shoe net, Givenchy has increased its brand size by more than six times while Riccardo Tisci is in power. Its annual sales volume has reached 500 million euros, and the number of employees has increased from 290 in 2005 to more than 930.

In 2014, Riccardo Tisci moved the Givenchy fashion show from Paris to New York.

Last March, when Burberry CEO Marco Gobbetti announced the appointment of the new creative director, she expressed the hope that through the Riccardo Tisci, the design of the combination of street wear and high fashion will attract more young consumers to the brand.

Compared with the radical initiatives of Celine and Bottega Veneta, who also changed the new creative director's brand account, Riccardo Tisci's methods are more gradual.

On the premise of keeping marketing tools younger and respecting the brand history, he made new changes to brand logo and printing patterns, and then covered new printing in outdoor billboards, art installations, buses and shops all over the world, emphasizing the brand new image of Burberry to consumers.

In terms of channels, Riccardo Tisci also retained the strategy of "watching and buying" left behind by the Christopher Bailey era, further extending to the monthly release of new products, and fully stimulating the curiosity and desire of consumers through the 24 hour sale of social media platforms such as Instagram, WeChat, Line and KakaoTalk.

According to statistics, the "B Series" series launched by Burberry in September last year is sold out every time in the brand WeChat small program boutiques. It is sold out in half a day, whether it is a T-shirt priced at 4000 yuan or a handbag of 10000 yuan, which proves that the popularity of the brand is picking up step by step.

However, investors are still puzzled by the combination of Riccardo Tisci and Marco Gobbetti that can lead Burberry to the first gradient of luxury goods.

Earlier, some analysts believe that the Buberry's sluggish performance may mean that the new team led by Marco Gobbetti and Riccardo Tisci does not have enough strength to make more consumers buy branded products, and the whole luxury industry is facing a trend of slowing global economic growth and weakening demand of consumers in China.

At the end of last year, ten of the top European luxury and apparel companies released by Bloomberg, Burberry and Hermes group were the lowest among analysts. 16 of them recommended holding, 4 suggested selling, and 3 suggested buying. Therefore, some analysts believe that the continued weakness of stock prices may eventually make Burberry a new acquisition target for other giants.

In addition, the development of Burberry has not been smooth in recent years, and its performance has gone downhill since 2016. According to the data, Burberry profits have declined for 3 consecutive years until 2017.

In the third quarter of December 29, 2018, Burberry sales fell 1% to 711 million pounds, while same store sales increased 1%.

In the face of continuous doubts in the market, Marco Gobbetti stressed in its latest earnings report that although the overall revenue is still declining, the percentage of Burberry in the key market in the mainland of China has increased by a median percentage. "B Series" has also received positive response from the market, attracting 57 million consumers' attention in social media.

In December last year, Burberry announced through micro-blog's official account that Chinese actor and director Zhao Wei was the brand new spokesperson and said Dongyu Zhou would continue to cooperate with the brand as spokesperson.

It is noteworthy that Wu Yifan, who signed the Burberry in 2016, became the spokesperson for Louis Vuitton in October 31st last year, while the foreign media have repeatedly reported that Wu Yifan is the biggest contributor to Burberry growth.

In social media, electricity providers, millennials and street fashion constantly reshaping the new look of luxury brands, Marco Gobbetti and Riccardo Tisci are trying to recreate the myth of Gucci turning around. But with the uncertainty of the global luxury fashion industry increasing, the next step of Burberry is still unknown.

After the big show, Burberry shares rose 0.1% to 19.55 pounds, and its stock price has accumulated 13% in the past 6 months, with a market value of about 8 billion pounds.

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