When Karl Lagerfeld Said Goodbye, There Was A Snow.
There was no snow in Paris in March 5th. Although spring has arrived, the temperature around 11 degrees is still forced to feel the remnants of the cold winter.
Those fashion bloggers and celebrities, who claim to have no seasons, have to succumb to reality, and they have already wrapped their long sleeved clothing and even their advanced custom, though everyone knows that they may only wear a chiffon dress suit.
More than an hour away from 10:30 a.m., Audi, Mercedes Benz or Rolls-Royce from Ritz Paris, Hotel de Crillon, Mandarin Oriental and Park Hyatt have occupied several traffic roads in Paris. Through the shining windows, you can see a beautiful woman who is playing with her face quickly, with a slight anxiety.
The photographers in front of The Grand Palace in Paris arrived earlier, and the chill in the morning would not have any effect on them - looking for targets, flying, photographing and exchanging communications - a series of highly fluent and coherent movements in large numbers of strange people proved this point.
Some of these people come from Paris, others from other parts of the world. They have only one goal: Chanel 2019 autumn and winter series.
Since the death of Karl Lagerfeld in February 19th, how this series will show the hearts of countless editors, buyers, fashion enthusiasts and passers-by spectators has become the focus of discussion as the showcase layout of Karl Lagerfeld logo design is filled with Mousika's show.
People guess only half of it.
In the past, Mousika came, such as Claudia Schiffer, who had endorsed Chanel for over five quarters of the supermodel, but she chose to watch the show under the stage. Karl Lagerfeld's landmark show layout also declined, and the layout of the grand and exquisite ski resort continued his demanding of the overall visual effect.
The entire exhibition ground is filled with shades of snow. The wooden step chair constructed by the resort style is extended on both sides of the "one" extension platform. Curious guests walk around in order to find the best way to set off their "Instagram beauty".
The background is the blue to the dazzling sky and the snow covered peaks. The sparkling lakes are like the pearls that are inlaid in the woolen coat.
In addition to flutters of snowflakes and bleak north wind, this is not the same as winter. People can not help thinking of the Chanel 2011 autumn winter series. That year, Karl Lagerfeld will be pported to Paris from Sweden's iceberg, and the guests attending Yves Saint Laurent in the small palace next to the big show will tremble in confusion.
Cara Delevingne first came out of the background, and the Chanel 2019 autumn and winter show began.
The opening lines of the thousand birds are the clues that run through the whole series.
From the long woolen coat, loose broad leg trousers to the warm nine skirts, you can see the use of this classic element and bring out the elegant gentlemanly temperament of the old age.
Embroidered Eastern European Slavic style jacket and skirt will show the stadium from the alpine ski resort to the Ural mountains.
Karl Lagerfeld and Viginie Viard provide rich imagination for this style of express. One of the brown and white cashmere knitted sweaters, the crown is curly printed with jewel embroidered double C scarves, and modern modern reveals a hint of the rugged in the snow and the nomadic people.
A series of designs with different colors are the regular presentation of Karl Lagerfeld each time.
Pink, Zhu Hong, lake blue and peacock blue are painted on the Chanel classic suit, adding active breath to the heavy winter series.
Bright down clothing also appears in the design, waist and shorten the design mix and match stripes embroidery and knee skirt, let it no longer be fashionable people hate "fat dressing".
The fashion show ends with a series of pure white designs.
A few casual jewellery necklaces with a smooth silk dress suit, a pair of trousers with a little bit of pearls and gloss as the swing of the model, and a fluffy skirt full of elaborate and delicate flowers embroidered, even though it is coler and colter under the ice and snow, is also clean and bright. It also makes a successful conclusion for the layout of the grand show.
In the aspect of accessories, although there are no Side Pack Bags eye-catching bags in the 2019 spring and summer series, which are dubbed "double guns old women" by netizens, all kinds of fluffy and thousand bird handbags, satchel and waist bags are wonderful enough, especially the brown edged villi with high frequency. They will definitely occupy the list of the next it bag in the identity of Karl Lagerfeld.
Lace up boots are also noteworthy items in the show.
The texture of the fleece has shown signs of life in the high latitudes. The addition of the thin laces has worn the whole pair of shoes to avoid the heavy feeling of the snow boots and the visual effects of the short legs.
Obviously, this is a very Karl Lagerfeld series, everywhere showing his mark on the pformation of Chanel, the way he has been taking since he took over: inserting pop culture into the advanced custom heritage, and to some extent become the leader of this pattern of reinventing fashion.
The designer who started to emerge from the age did not create the shape of the imagination explosion on his costume just like his Yves Saint Laurent and Cristobal Balenciaga.
Fashion for Karl Lagerfeld means a natural mission, a job or just a skirt. He refuses to self sacrifice and indulgence of artists, operates three different brands with super high self-discipline and different from ordinary people's energy, runs across several groups and looks forward to launching a joint series with H&M.
Just like the 2019 autumn and winter series that just ended, you can see that the profile from Gabrielle Chanel and its several handicraft workshops are comparable to the clothing technology of ancient royal products and water, which can see beauty and popularity, but can not see clearly the Karl Lagerfeld.
Like a ghost, he hides behind every dress, creating a conservative but fashionable Chanel that can not be branded with Karl Lagerfeld.
This also explains the succession of Virginie Viard.
According to the news given by the former official, this is a series of cooperation completed by Karl Lagerfeld and Virginie Viard, but you can still see Chanel in it, and the two designers are hiding well.
But Chanel also made Karl Lagerfeld shine in this era.
Every year's advanced custom fashion show and early autumn series maintain the dignity of advanced handicraft in the fast fashion era, draw an equal sign between fashion and expensive and perfect. When we understand the rules of social media era, Karl Lagerfeld has made people's desire to destroy the heritage of Chanel by breaking the coats and jeans in the combination of 100 years of brand story and classic single products, and the luxurious cat has also added to his legendary and mysterious life style.
Bernard Arnault, chairman of LVMH group, said in a statement after her death: "the passing of Karl Lagerfeld has made us lose a creative genius and played a huge role in Paris becoming a fashion capital."
The Chanel led by him has also become a pioneer in the global strategy of luxury brands, and has arrived ahead of the developing world in the luxury market, through expensive global half shows.
Fendi's the Great Wall show and Chanel's the Bund early autumn series have become a symbol of Western luxury's opening up to China's new round of expansion.
It's hard to find a designer who can match the influence of Karl Lagerfeld in the contemporary era.
At the end of the big show, with David Bowie's Heroes, people rose to applaud the hero. This song was also used in the closing of Fendi 2019 autumn and winter series.
For the two time, Chanel's supermodel Mariacarla Boscono cried when she came out of the curtain call. She consciously lowered her head and wiped her tears with her hands. But the platform was as steady as ever, and the Cara Delevingne smiled aside to give comfort to her side.
If we observe carefully, we will see that there are more or less traces of tears on the faces of the models behind them, some of them are red eyes, others are slightly blurred.
While others were sitting in position waiting for the model to end, Anna Wintour seemed to glance at it for a few weeks, and Anna slowly rose to applaud and became the first person to stand up in her area, even though the big dark glasses that made it look expressionless were like a helmet that covered the face.
No one came to the curtain after the big show. Virginie Viard and studio workers who wore white coats did not come out. But the applause that haunted the entire show hall turned the seemingly embarrassing scene into a deep feeling salute.
At the same time, the flowers displayed before the Chanel flagship store on Kang Peng street were not reduced.
In the hand drawn illustrations attached to the invitation letter of the Chanel show, Karl Lagerfeld walks with Gabrielle Chanel to have a pleasant chat, and matches the text "The Beat Goes On..."
Perhaps it is the expectation of Karl Lagerfeld that he will keep his expectations on the Chanel of Virginie Viard.
This is the last big show of Karl Lagerfeld. After the curtain call, many people still stay in the show room to exchange and cherish the memory.
But under the intense fashion week arrangement, people still have to regret to rush to the next brand site.
Chanel is the first show on the last day of Paris fashion week. When people say goodbye to Karl Lagerfeld and walk out of The Grand Palace, March 5th has just begun.
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