The Chinese Wind Is Popular In Fashion Industry. The New Wave Of "The Imperial Palace Manufacturing" Is Coming Out.

"Still very excited."

Busy with the upcoming Shanghai fashion week's brand show, but referring to participation in the design of "the Imperial Palace kit", tired Awaylee Brand Manager Li Wei is still very excited.

In the wake of the controversy over the Imperial Palace's "Lantern Festival" lighting show, the news of "the Imperial Palace sells clothes" started at the beginning of this month.

Selling clothes is not the first time for the Imperial Palace.

This event is the revival of traditional costume culture initiated by ICY global designer platform and Beijing the Imperial Palace palace culture development Co., Ltd., which means that the traditional culture of "Ji Fu", which has been born for nearly 600 years but rarely known, is brought back to the public view in the collision between traditional oriental aesthetics and modern fashion design.

Through fierce competition, Li Wei became one of the 5 designers to work with the Imperial Palace.

The Imperial Palace seems to be able to sell anything.

"(the Imperial Palace) 11900 kinds of cultural and creative products, has been involved in all aspects of people, clothing, food and shelter.

In March 23rd, Dan Jixiang, President of the the Imperial Palace Museum, said at the China Development Summit.

But compared to the social products such as the Imperial Palace lipstick and the Imperial Palace lighting show, the cross boundary of the Imperial Palace has only caused a sensation in the professional field. The reason is that Zhang Zhaoyuan, vice president of China Fashion Group, thinks that apart from netizens' slight fatigue on the topic of convergence, it also has more and more concern with the fashion industry in China.

Including the Paris Fashion Week show and all the new designs of international brands, Chinese elements can be captured. For example, in the 2017 Paris fashion week, Gaia legend used the blue and white porcelain as a design inspiration to create a series of Chinese style costumes. In 2018, the Lining brand Chinese style explosion in New York fashion week became almost the "topic king". This year's Paris fashion week, the Chinese style design of "the first Chinese in China" was also stunning the world.

With the rise of the "national tide", which is the rise of the local trend brands, the Chinese wind is increasingly sought after by the market.

But Zhang Zhaoyuan said that the understanding of the "Chinese style" rooted in the soil of Chinese culture is also superficial. The Chinese local designers should think about how to apply traditional cultural elements to the way of thinking designed.

The Imperial Palace's clothes can also be worn out.

"Ji Fu" was first formed in the Ming Dynasty. It became a special classification of the crown clothing system in the Qing Dynasty. It was widely used in various auspicious occasions. It was the exclusive clothing worn by the ancients for the festival and auspicious occasion.

"It's not enough to make a simple combination of the Imperial Palace elements and fashion products."

Li Wei believes that the integration of the two requires innovation.

In fact, some brands in the initial stage of cooperation with the development of the Imperial Palace elements adopted the way to paste the Imperial Palace elements directly onto products. This product without excavation of the Imperial Palace buildings and collections and products without innovation is a souvenir.

And the cultural elements that the Imperial Palace carries are numerous. What kind of fusion can better reflect the meaning of "gilt" and make young people like it? At the beginning of the design, Li Wei could not start.

As one of the largest and most complete preserved wooden structures in the world, the Imperial Palace has gathered all the essence of ancient Chinese palace architecture. Each window is a unique context in the different light of the four seasons. Not to mention the million pieces of the Imperial Palace, can find the classic and fashion fit.

"It's very stressful."

Li Wei, who likes to explore the unknown field, still accepts the challenge. Finally, they repeatedly screen from tens of thousands of elements, and decide to design from "palace painting" and "the Imperial Palace architecture".

These two elements have been reflected in the famous brand design in recent years.

For example, the Byzantine art, which combines the classical art naturalism and the abstract decorative features of Oriental Art, has been shown in the brand design of Gucci (GUCCI). The controversial design of dujibana in recent years has brought the fusion of the three to the extreme. The inspiration of the design is mostly from Byzantine decorative art, Sicilian murals and ancient Rome architecture in Capri, Venice and Rome, or even Renaissance sculptures.

But unlike these luxury brands, as an important category of lifestyle, "the Imperial Palace gown" needs to compete with the entire apparel industry in the market. From price, aesthetic to cultural details, there is a need for differentiated strategies.

Li Wei chose the maiden style - "flower building flourishing age" series, meaning to find peach blossoms.

The inspiration of the design comes from the "flower and bird album of Lang Shining" by Lang Shining, a Italy missionary and court painter.

Li Wei integrates the flower elements in the atlas with the seven the Imperial Palace representative buildings such as Shen Wu men, Fang Fang ting and Yu Hua Ge, such as the printed elements of the Han Wah pattern, the design of the big lotus leaf deconstruction sleeve, and the nine pairs of trousers with the series of light colored high waist denim. The street breeze collision belt and the traditional printing patterns collide with the different fashion sense.

The designers of the five (the Imperial Palace gyms) have good street sense.

To put it in a vernacular, these clothes are suitable for outdoors, and the use of these techniques, such as bandage sweater, three-dimensional cut structure and high waist rope, makes these clothes very practical, and they are unique but not frivolous and eccentric when they are shopping.

Zhang Zhaoyuan thinks.

"Chinese style" is not a Chinese element.

First financial reporter noted that on the ICY platform, "the Imperial Palace Ji suit" network sales price is not high, ranging from 300 yuan to 1000 yuan.

"Because it is only online in March, it will take a while before customers can accept it."

Li Wei told first finance.

Last year, CCTV financial channel's fashion culture competition program "fashion master" won a good reputation.

The famous designers, including Li Wei, are all contestants. The design inspiration is integrated with the "Chinese elements" and "auspicious patterns" and the criticism of the judges affirmed that Li Wei gave a new annotation to the "Chinese style".

At first, the so-called Chinese style was the Europeans' understanding and imagination of Chinese art.

In the eighteenth Century, the design and color of the Chinese wind were once the objects of European designers' imitation.

Over time, at present, in the fashion field dominated by Europe and America, Chinese style is just a moment of inspiration from designers.

Designers who stand in the perspective of western culture tend to make structural changes in Chinese elements and produce different visual effects.

For example, the design of a dress dress designed by Giorgio Armani has become an embellishment of uneven Chinese characters. The visual effect can be understood as the classical interpretation of Chinese style. These "Chinese elements" have nothing to do with oriental aesthetics and traditional Chinese dress.

"Unlike Western designers, Chinese designers can better reflect the Chinese style and the artistic conception of Chinese costumes, but this pure expression can hardly be recognized by the fashion industry, and some designs are more like" eye catching ".

For example, the red carpet of dragon robes, cranes and northeastern winds has become a controversial topic these years.

Zhang Zhaoyuan understands this. After all, China's clothing and fashion industry is quite different from that of Europe and the United States. Even if Chinese designers are on the international stage, they can't play the leading role.

The original design of "Chinese style" is supported by Oriental philosophy and aesthetics. From this point of view, the rise of Japanese fashion design is worth learning by Chinese fashion and fashion industry.

Some analysts believe that the reason for the success of Japanese clothing is that besides the promotion of Japan's economic status, the Japanese government's support for the industrial design industry is an important factor in the rapid development of fashion design in a short time.

As we all know, Japan is a country with limited resources and limited consumption capacity. Under such circumstances, Japan has chosen the policy of economic prosperity based on developing light industry and export, developing industrial design from the introduction of design talents and the study of local designers.

At the same time, in the past 50 years, Japan has also focused on organizing large-scale international industrial design exhibitions, which has made Japanese people aware of the close relationship between industrial design and daily life, thus enhancing the public's interest in industrial design.

Under such a complete system, based on Oriental Aesthetics and philosophy of life, boldly, novelty, breaking the tradition, and having the characteristics of creativity, a group of Japanese designers grew up quickly.

If we look at the development of the national economy and the return of traditional culture, the "Chinese style" is in an upward stage, but it may take decades to really rise.

With the traditional cultural symbols such as the Imperial Palace leading the public's aesthetic appreciation, the original design in the fashion field also has the opportunity to develop.

Li Wei believes that this will be a process of exploring the unknown, which needs to be absorbed and fused.