Is It Not Popular For Men And Women? Why Do More And More Brands Choose To Return To Men'S Clothing Week?
The men's show is returning to the stage of fashion.
Following last summer's Pitti Immagine Uomo 2020 spring and summer series, Salvatore Ferragamo announced that it will return to men's week, and will launch a new series in Milan in January. In addition to the initial announcement, the company declined to comment.
Ferragamo is the latest luxury brand to announce the 2020 autumn and winter series of independent men's wear show. Earlier this month, Gucci said it would also take part in this season's Milan men's dress week after several male and female fashion shows. Givenchy's art director, Clare Waight Keller, turned his attention to men's clothing week. He presented 36 men's clothing in Paris men's wear week in January 2019 and appeared again in Florence men's wear week in June.
This delicate trend marks the 180 turning point in the fashion industry. In early 2019, the industry began to argue fiercely about the significance of men's clothing week, especially in London and New York.
Many famous brands, including Burberry, Balenciaga, Calvin Klein and Bottega Veneta, have merged the men's and women's fashion series into a mixed fashion show that only appeared in women's wear Zhou Richeng.
"Men's wear is becoming a bigger and faster business," said Josh Peskowitz, director and buyer of Moda Operandi menswear. "More and more men are starting to pay attention to the fashion field which has rarely been noticed in the past, and there is great room for men's wear."
In the spring and summer fashion season in 2020, New York men's wear week was reduced to one day, and the participants were mostly unknown brands. Sies Marjan and Bode have enough influential brands to take the men's wear show to a bigger stage like Paris. But for large and small companies, how to plan fashion week needs to weigh costs and consumer interests.
"The mixed fashion show is growing more mature, on the one hand because of gender mobility, and brands want to create a consistent design concept. On the other hand, this mode is more commercial," says Fiona Firth, Mr Porter's buyer director.
However, as a way to win buyers and fashion editors, the benefits of fashion shows can be gradually diminishing. Nevertheless, the brand is still rising fashion show, as a marketing tool. Whether it's Moncler's monthly debut, Chanel's series of extravagant holiday events held around the world, and Versace's celebrity guests' fashion show that caused the Internet sensation, the fashion show provides an unparalleled opportunity for the brand.
Over the years, Louis Vuitton has been holding men's and women's fashion shows respectively. Virgil Abloh and Louis Vuitton, the famous street fashion designer responsible for the men's wear series, are able to maximize the interest of consumers and enhance the participation of social media. Therefore, Tribe Dynamics, a network data research firm, believes that Louis Vuitton has reached a higher peak in social media participation compared with competitors such as Gucci.
Men also buy more luxuries than ever before. In 2018, sales of designer men's clothing increased by 4.5% to $32 billion 200 million, while sales of women's clothing increased by 4.3% to $53 billion 900 million, according to Euromonitor International. Euro international expects that designer brand menswear sales will reach US $39 billion 100 million in 2023.
If you want to assess the fashion show of men's and women's fashion show, you will find that "you pay lower cost, but you are less attracted to men's clothing," said Raffaello Napoleone, chief executive of Florence menswear exhibition. "When you put these two series together, you may lose something."
He added that the Florence men's wear exhibition is not only a commercial bridge in the men's wear circle, but a brand like Ferragamo returns to the menswear schedule on Sunday instead of being overwhelmed by women's clothing week. It also has a special strategic significance.
The design concept of T is also changing. The profile of "Logo fever" and sports style is disappearing, and the tailoring process begins to return. Ferragamo and other brands may benefit from this trend. In the past two fashion seasons, even Gucci has changed the strategy of maximizing Logo, turning to monochrome, tailored design styles, especially the clothes worn by men's models.
The mixed fashion show is still very popular. Jacquemus's 10th Anniversary Fashion Show is a successful example. Last November 5th, Versace announced that it would hold a mixed autumn and Winter Conference on men's and women's wear during the week of women's wear. However, Peskowitz also predicts that more and more brands are turning to independent men's shows, which does not mean the end of the mixed gender fashion show.
"I would be very surprised if a brand like Gucci shows men's clothing in men's week and not in women's clothing week (men's wear)," he said. "Strategically speaking, you will see more men's clothing around the world, which means more men's wear conferences and more fresh trends."
Source: BoF Fashion Business Review Author: Rachel Deeley
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