Sunscreen Track Tends To Be Diversified And Subdivided

This summer, sun suits are warming up rapidly.

With the rise of camping outdoor trend, coupled with the head anchor such as Li Jiaqi constantly put on the shelves of sunscreen clothes, the sun protection players represented by Jiaoxia have stepped out of another prairie fire trend in the new consumption track.

In addition to Jiaoxia, many capital supported traditional clothing brands have also entered the board, holding high the banner of "black technology", so that the sunscreen clothing track is increasingly diversified and subdivided. But behind the label trend, the quality of the product is uneven, and the product strength has not been fully valued. On the contrary, whether it is good to sell or not, and "good looking" is still the first decisive factor.

At this time, the perspective of the concept of sunscreen clothing, "how long" may become a question.

　　01

The popularity of Jiaoxia depends only on marketing?

In 2021, Jiaoxia has cooperated with 600 KOLs, and more than one third of them have more than one million fans, bringing 4.5 billion views to Jiaoxia.

Relying on online channels to sell goods and focusing on KOL grass planting marketing mode, these typical features of new consumer brands have not been omitted.

The arrival of camping fever has brought a lot of good sunscreen clothes.

In the little red book, there are more than 40000 articles about "camping sun protection".

According to Huachuang Securities Research Report, it is estimated that the scale of the outdoor market driven by camping is about 400 billion yuan, of which shoes, clothing and outdoor products account for more than 90% of the total, while only 10% of the tourism products that the outside world mistakenly believe may be in fire.

Picture source: Huachuang securities

Taking advantage of this, banana, which is famous for its sunscreen, is going to be listed on the stock market under the head of "China's urban outdoor first stock". Jiaoxia has not only set up a subsidiary company with the business scope of camp services, but also is building its own camp in Wutong Mountain, Shenzhen, which is aimed at middle-class consumers. Just like lululemon's deep binding to yoga field, Jiaoxia aims at camping.

Driven by the camping craze, major e-commerce platforms, based on market insight, have also vigorously supported sunscreen clothing categories through flow inclinations. During the "618" period, Shuo Yin e-commerce super brand day launched the topic of "summer full sun protection guide", with more than 60 million plays; During Jingdong's "618" period, a number of sunscreen clothing became popular, and ohsunny's turnover increased by 200% 10 minutes before the sale; Taobao live broadcast released the "report on the sun protection of Taobao live broadcast in 2022". From January to April of 2022, the turnover of sunscreen clothing increased by 157.11%; Taote has added a "cool and damp" zone. In April this year, the sun protection consumption of platform clothing and wear has nearly doubled compared with that in 2021

Many people doubt the fashion trend behind the rise of popular brands, but the result is that many people doubt the popularity of fashion.

From 2019 to 2021, the advertising and marketing expenses of Jiaoxia are 36.917 million yuan, 119 million yuan and 586 million yuan respectively, accounting for 9.6%, 15% and 24.4% of the total revenue.

To be sure, Jiaoxia's high investment in marketing costs and KOL's wide network marketing mode have sustained the rising revenue.

Source: Jiaoxia prospectus

However, it seems that some different signals can be identified from the R & D cost rate under banana.

R & D cost rate is a part of the core competitiveness of products.

In the past three years, the R & D cost rate of banana has dropped from 5% to 3%. In fact, although the R & D cost rate of Jiaoxia is far lower than that of Adidas and Nike, which maintain more than 7% all year round, it is in line with Anta, Li Ning and other domestic first-line sports brands. Rongmei shares, known as "Taoxi women's first share" and also relying on online channels, had R & D expense rates of 1.60%, 1.64% and 1.42% respectively in the three years before listing (2018-2020). In contrast, the R & D cost rate under banana is even advantageous. The sales of ice thin series of shawl sunscreen clothes with self-developed airoop fabric under banana reached 270 million yuan last year.

There are countless women's wear brands rising with the trend. They really want to be welcomed by the audience for a long time, have certain product competitiveness, and may be more recognized by the long-term.

Grasp the trend, with high marketing investment is seen, product power seems not bad under the banana, in the end can go far?

　　02

The track tends to be diversified and subdivided

"Bosden outdoor flagship store" of down jacket brand bosden entered tmall on May 17. At present, there are at least 58 sunscreen label products among the 158 items on sale, and some of them are sold for more than 1000 yuan.

The followers of Jiaoxia are becoming more and more large, from Anta and other sportswear to down jacket brands such as bosden, underwear brand jiaonei, and native people in sunscreen clothing such as ohsunny.

Sunscreen clothing has different origins and shapes, which are subdivided by e-commerce platform. On the super category day of tmall, businesses were labeled, such as Jiaoxia, jiaonei and uv100 belonging to digital party sunscreen; Carmon belongs to the lazy sunscreen track; Ohsunny, new era and VVC are new aesthetic sunscreen... During the "618" period of Jingdong, a sunscreen zone was set up, which basically covers most of the above brands (including seven wolves, etc.).

The members of the current market represent the basic sun protection team.

In 2022, Anta e-commerce released "Jue Jue Zi" sunscreen series; Bosden launched a new series of sun protective clothing; There are Wang Yibo's new products in banana; Ohsunny has been in the field of sunscreen clothing / accessories for ten years. In 2021, ohsunny's sales volume in tmall will reach 600 million, among which the category of sunscreen clothing accessories will achieve a leap forward growth compared with the previous year; More than 50% of the sales of Carmon, which comes from outdoor winter hats, accounts for more than 50%; UNIQLO has also upgraded its sunscreen to UPF50 + this year.

Bosden's new stores mainly focusing on sunscreen clothing categories have entered tmall, and they have been focusing on the high-end sunscreen clothing market. After the launch of high-end products, it means that the sunscreen clothing market is increasingly diversified and more subdivided. Bosden's sun proof clothing sold for more than 1000 yuan, while banana lower class sun proof clothing was generally more than 200 yuan.

These "rich" head brands have gradually enriched sunscreen clothing track, and also extended the possibility of more extensive use of sunscreen in summer outdoor scenes. In terms of category, the latest data of "Taobao live sunscreen report in 2022" shows that "Oriental face Gini" has become a popular sunscreen equipment for young people, with a turnover increase of 1462.5%. In terms of a single enterprise, in 2013, the single product of Jiaoxia became popular from double-layer small black umbrella, and now it has extended to 21 main categories.

Source: Jiaoxia prospectus

The concentration of clothing market is low. In addition to the trend led by the head brands such as Jiaoxia, which are heavily invested by capital, those small and medium-sized enterprises with large number are supporting the capillary vessels of the sun proof clothing market. According to the enterprise survey data, there are more than 2600 sunscreen related enterprises in China, with the largest number of new sunscreen related enterprises in 2019. At the beginning of the outbreak, the rapid growth of new entrants was interrupted, but this year, the market for sun proof clothing has started again. From 2021 to 2026, the "hard sunscreen" of sunscreen clothing is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 9.4%, and the market size will reach 95.8 billion yuan by 2026.

　 　03

New consumption cannot be short of "black technology", but good looking is still the first demand

The rapid emergence of a large number of sunscreen clothing market entrants, industry threshold is a major reason.

As early as 2003, the national standard "evaluation of anti ultraviolet performance of textiles" clearly stipulates that only when UPF > 40 and t (UVA) AV < 5% are satisfied, can they be called "anti ultraviolet products".

The sun protection index (UPF) is one of the important indicators of "digital Party's sunscreen", and the exposure of UPF has been highlighted in the publicity of major brands.

Step on the purple series up to 50 +; Bosden is expensive. The UPF of sunscreen clothing of scorching sun series has reached 80 +... In fact, it seems that it is not difficult to reach the entry level of sunscreen standard.

According to media reports, many manufacturers can provide test reports for the necessary certification of sun proof clothing. "Normal sun proof clothing, whether it is the coating type or the original yarn type, can pass the UPF50 + certification."

OEM is a common production mode of sunscreen clothing start-ups.

As of 2021, the company has cooperated with 166 contract manufacturers. Inside the double-layer small black umbrella, behind the relatively expensive products under banana, there are many marketing expenses that are shared among consumers, so they are criticized by the outside world. The surging news once reported that if you want to make the same quality of banana, the cost is not high, "shawl type sunscreen clothing is more than 50 yuan / piece, and the long style is more than 70 yuan / piece."

If we go further, what is the protection of sunscreen clothing?

In April this year, Wencheng County, Zhejiang Province, imposed an administrative penalty on tmall's "sharp action shop under banana". The reason is that the next product of banana's anti sun ice sleeve is known as "47% increase in light catching power". However, the merchants are unable to provide the product test report or source of "light trapping power".

According to the company's investigation data, the vast majority of the 195 brands involved in banana are design products, and only 5 sunscreen items are authorized by the company, They are "preparation method of sunscreen fabric, sunscreen fabric and sunscreen umbrella", "preparation method of temperature regulating fiber, temperature regulating fiber and fabric", "spinning method of melt blown staple fiber and its non-woven filter material product", "production method of graphene nylon and cotton blended yarn" and "a silk thread doubling process".

However, there are only 3 items in the prospectus of Jiaoxia, and they are all related to umbrella.

Three points of strength, need seven points of strength to publicize.

According to the information on the official website of Jiaoxia, the brand's sunscreen clothing, hats and other products are marked with light and breathable air loop fabric, "it can still maintain the sunscreen effect of UPF50 + after 30 times of washing".

From the consumer's point of view, the meaning of "UPF" is complex enough, but "good-looking" is still the first major competitiveness. Many people will also care about the multi-function of sunscreen clothing, such as whether to wear a hat or not.

Therefore, whether it can stand out in the sun proof clothing market, especially attract the attention of female main consumers, good-looking has always been the most critical first standard.

In this sense, the characteristics of "sunscreen track" do not seem to be significantly different from traditional clothing.

From this point of view, Jiaoxia's reputation as "China's first outdoor city" is also interpreted as a signal of seeking transformation.

"The anti ultraviolet performance of ordinary clothes made of * * cotton is better than that of professional sunscreen clothes", which was a test conducted by Ningbo Quality Supervision Bureau. As ordinary consumers, if they are "cut leek" by high price sunscreen clothes, they may feel cold after hearing this conclusion.

Test data of Ningbo Quality Supervision Bureau

As far as F50 + brand is concerned, it is still difficult to achieve the standard of the industry.

A media report evaluation in 2018 found that half of the 60 sunscreen clothes failed to meet the standard, including an Anta brand men's single jacket, water cube women's windbreaker, Paul Frank women's sports skin suit, etc.

"Sunscreen technology" is reasonable, but do ordinary people have to participate in this trend? Many people have heard a metaphor: it's not difficult to get a skill from 0 to 90, but from 90 to 91, every score is difficult to reach the sky.

The answer is obvious whether ordinary people's sun protection needs the blessing of "black technology"; For new consumer brands, the score seems to have to be won - without these new concepts, how can consumers pay?