Material Cultural Heritage Song Brocade In Modern Practical Scenes

On September 5, shangjiukai · bianhuizhong 2023 advanced customization new series "Inaction" was launched and launched in China International Fashion week. The press conference takes Zhuangzi's "Inaction" approach and presents the poetic expression of Song Jin, a world intangible cultural heritage, in modern practical scenes.

Fashion designer Bian Huizhong takes nature as the topic, song brocade as paper, dot, line and surface as ink, combined with Western three-dimensional cutting technology and heterogeneous splicing, to draw a poetic and romantic fashion picture without deliberate carving. In order to arouse the audience's natural resonance with the traditional culture, they will be able to show the beauty in front of the audience.

This show continues the style of the collision and fusion of intangible cultural heritage and fashion power in shangjiukai, pays homage to the "natural" life philosophy, and shows the beautiful natural scenery in details. Bian Huizhong presents the fairy of Chinese landscape, the spirit of birds and flowers, and the brilliance of the sun and moon on the costumes with freehand brushwork. Combined with new materials, new crafts and new stitching, Bian Huizhong explores the mystery of nature and design from the perspectives of "meaning", "Rhyme", "shape", "quality" and "spirit". It gradually sublimates from form to essence, from form to spirit, from meaning to rhyme, So as to show a graceful Xianyi visual feast.

At the beginning of the show, the models came in all kinds of song brocade clothes. They were dancing in the walking room. They were like Lingbo fairies stepping on the water. A new poetic chapter began. Clothing series takes the way of "Inaction" and interprets the philosophical meaning of "starting from concrete nature and returning to macro nature". Such as black, coffee and other dark color series [unknown] series, using the form of the face to show the "flowers" of the ever-changing, wonderful, expressed in the vast universe burst of ideas; Another example is the emergence series with pink color as the main color. The traditional jacquard details of song brocade, supplemented by heterogeneous stitching, are used to make the elegant implication float and present a natural state in different forms; Another example is the "fantasy" series with beige tone as the main color. The expression develops naturally under the drive of consciousness, showing the Oriental beauty in which all living beings do nothing. The three series are progressive in turn, combining the concrete form beauty with the deep-seated "Inaction" lifestyle and values to interpret the "poetic new national style" in a three-dimensional and vivid way.

In terms of clothing design and production technology, shangjiukai adheres to the original intention of applying song brocade to contemporary life. In order to show the various styles of natural flowers and trees in four seasons, shangjiukai uses the organic integration of traditional crafts and modern silhouettes to depict the natural charm of leisurely and elegant. For example, the silhouette wide version suit with a soft and elegant dress, or the heavy industry lace top connecting with the stiff cheongsam hem, explains the positioning of "real wear art" with multiple collocation and splicing design.

In the use of clothing fabrics, song brocade and modern cashmere, wool and other yarn through the pattern of joint, forming a seamless splicing, which is an unprecedented initiative in fabric splicing, breaking the traditional understanding of the use of textile yarn. At the same time, considering the wearing characteristics of different styles, the silk part is applied to the parts that fit the skin, and the wool and cashmere are used in the warm and wear-resistant parts to make it more practical and fashionable. "How to inherit and innovate song brocade is the focus of our design every season, and it is also a kind of mission." Bian Huizhong said. This series makes use of song brocade's delicate and rough wool's characteristics, with special weaving techniques, to produce fashionable and durable new jacquard fabrics. It breaks the traditional weaving concept of song brocade, shows the multi-faceted application of song brocade, and reflects shangjiukai's firm determination to innovate and develop song brocade craft and the perseverance to realize the determination. Shangjiukai, formerly known as shangjiukan silk and satin shop in Suzhou, was also a song brocade Weaver used by royal family in Guangxu period of Qing Dynasty. As one of the representatives of Chinese silk culture, shangjiukai has been studying the inheritance and development of the world intangible cultural heritage "Song Jin".

Wu Jianhua, chairman and general manager of Suzhou shangjiukai silk technology and Culture Co., Ltd., successfully developed an electronic jacquard machine in line with the traditional song brocade weaving process and various technical parameters in 2012, which was the first time to realize the production of song brocade on modern looms, and to develop the traditional characteristics of song brocade Silk products in line with the fashion trend are the first person to put forward and practice the "living protection" of song brocade. It injects new elements into traditional skills, broadens the diversified development of silk, and applies it to various fields creatively, so that the traditional culture can be continued and carried forward.