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Design Skills Of High Waist Leather Shoes

2008/8/12 10:59:00 41825

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一前開口高腰皮鞋幫樣設計

The front opening high waist leather shoes are mainly laced structures.

The front support can be a whole structure, a cover structure, a pverse structure, a longitudinal structure, and a slotted structure.

The rear support can be a lace structure, plus a rear heel structure, a decorative line structure, a bias drill structure, a woolen structure, and a soft port structure.

This type of door location is usually on the front control line, the width of the back opening is about 110~120, and the height is about 120~130.

(1) structural features and style design

The front opening high waist leather shoes outside ear type primarily, the seal device has the shoelace type and the trip belt type two kinds, the shoe eye quantity is many, the front gang may be the vegetarian head type, the cover type, the Baotou type and so on.

There are also high waist leather shoes with tongue like structure.

The open door type is the main structure of the entrance door.

This kind of high waist leather shoes mouth door location is similar to the low waist leather shoes.

But the mouth length is larger, often located behind the middle of the front control line, slightly larger than that of low waist leather shoes.

Qy is located at the front of the front control line 15 points behind the QQ, that is, the length of the mouth gate point Fx is in [+15, +55] interval.

The width of the opening is about half of the width of the last surface and about 2~4. The width of the middle high waist shoe is about 42.

The front face of the high waist leather shoes is very large, usually controlled at 210~250 Cx, which exceeds the foot bending control point. The waist ankle control line only controls the installation position of the front trip belt.

High waist leather shoes are usually located near the C1 point below the two wings.

High waist leather shoes outsourced with back-end height A1Ax ', usually at 55~60, or slightly lower, but not less than 50.

The height of the outsourced front end (the height of the ankle part) B1Bx 'is usually at 40~45, and the minimum should not be less than 35.

The waist height of high waist leather shoes should be increased by 20~30.

Different styles, the specific design data are different, the zipper type is higher, about 130~160, and the lacing type and the rubber band type are slightly low, about 110~140.

The waist height of high waist leather shoes needs to be controlled by two data from the lateral malleolus height B1Bx and the back seam height A1Ax.

Generally, the horizontal line along the waist and upper edges of the waist tube can also be designed according to the styling requirements.

(two) curve and template processing

Style 1: plain head, outer ear type high waist leather shoes.

1., help the curling before the whole process.

(1) processing method

The front part is a prime head structure without any segmentation. The area of the components is large, and the middle suture has a large curvature.

It is similar to the outer ear type of the low waist leather shoes, but the sedan degree will be larger.

If the handle is handled, the result is similar to that of the front waist part and the integral tongue type long cover part of the low waist leather shoes, and the length along the bottom edge will be shortened, which is far from the length along the bottom edge of the seed template.

Therefore, the high waist leather shoes are used to help the front part of the waist with the same way of winding up with the low waist leather shoes.

(2) curling treatment

(3) internal and external ankle differences

1. The medial malleolus of the mouth was raised 2~3 times in advance, and the medial ankle at the lower edge of the two wings was 3~4 in advance.

(2) the medial malleolus along the bottom part of the line is higher than that of the lateral malleolus 2~3, while the medial part of the posterior part of the waist is lower than that of the lateral malleolus 5~8.

Note that the biggest difference in the latter part may be in the front of the template, or on the back template, to deal with specific problems.

2. net template production

(1) suture processing in the back group.

The key to making the net template is the suture processing in the back, which is different from the low waist leather shoes.

(1) the ends of the sutures on the back side are designed according to the standard of the wrist height, and 2~3.

(2) release 1~2 degrees of suture convex point in the back.

3. The lower end of the suture should release 2~3 main heel capacity.

(4) in order to ensure that the suture is correct, the upper and lower ends of the suture can be treated with ankle splitting.

Because the length of the medial and lateral malleolus is different from that of the lower one, which is usually long and slanting: the medial malleolus is larger than the lateral malleolus about 1~2 cm; the lower oblique is longer: the lateral malleolus is larger than the medial malleolus about 1~2.

(2) differential treatment of internal and external malleolus

1. The medial malleolus of the shoe ear lock point is raised 2~3 times in advance, and the inner ankle of the lower edge of the two wings is 4~6 in advance.

(2) the medial malleolus at the lower part of the back part along the bottom edge is lower than that of the lateral malleolus 5~8 cm, which corresponds to the difference between the internal and external ankle along the bottom part of the front part.

3. template making for other components

(1) shoe tongue template

(2) shoe position and shoe ear sham line

(3) outsourcing and design

(4) sponge design for rear waist pocket.

Style two: outer ear type high waist leather shoes.

The length of the cover plate is larger and the seesaw is larger. If the handle is handled, the length of the contour of the enclosure will be reduced, which is not consistent with the length of the contour of the contour. At this time, the necessary length should be added behind the cover to make it equal to the contour length of the contour strip.

The processing of the round bar is similar to that of the low waist leather shoes, so the proper technological seesaw should be given, that is, straightening treatment.

The method is to locate the location of the cover and alignment with the broken line, so that the front point exceeds 2~3 lines of the broken line and draws its outline.

The difference between the inner and outer ankle of the cover and the surrounding strip is the same as that of the low waist leather shoes. The contour line and the contour line of the Wai bar at the same time increase by 2~3 at the same time. The location of the door is raised 2~3 points forward and upward.

Two side opening high waist leather shoes sample design

The high waist leather shoes with side openings can be divided into two forms according to the lateral malleolus. One is the internal and external malleolus have mouth gates, and the mouth is symmetrical in distribution, which is called symmetrical side open high waist leather shoes.

The other is the medial malleolus with a portal, and the outer ankle has no mouth door and has the structure of the broken line. It is called the asymmetric side open high waist leather shoes.

The two types of structures are different and the design methods are different.

(1) structural features and door design

1. symmetrical side open high waist leather shoes

Symmetrical side open high waist leather shoes are represented by rubber bands.

The front gang can be an integral structure with a corner insert, and the insertion angle is usually between the F0 of the front convex mark and the D0 of the tarsal mark.

The back band can be either elastic or dark rubber band, and the width of the rubber band is about 35~45.

From the structural point of view, the inside and outside ankles have door openings, and the opening of the door is near the point of the side of the tarsal side.

The mouth door can be slightly up, and the width of the door is usually large.

The design rule of the back waist height is: the female is about 120, and the male is about 140.

2. asymmetric side open high waist leather shoes.

The asymmetric side open high waist leather shoes are represented by zipper structure.

The front gang can be a gourd shaped structure, a pverse structure, a longitudinal type structure, etc.

The back can be added after the packing structure, the joint structure, the front seam or the rear seam plus the reinforcement structure, etc.

This type of high waist leather shoes are located near the point of the medial malleolus and the side of the waist. The lateral malleolus is a whole structure. There is no door, which restricts the function of opening and closing of the door. Therefore, the location of the door is smaller than that of the symmetrical one, and the width of the mouth door is also bound to increase.

The contour of the upper waist of the waist cylinder is straight and collar type.

The processing forms include the mouth type, the close mouth type, the wool mouth type, the soft mouth type and so on.

The external malleolus can be decorated with colored leather, fake line and pimp.

The design rule of the back waist height is: the female is about 140, and the male is about 160.

(two) curve and template processing

The template is opened on the side of the waist tube.