Design Of Shoe With Full Width And Full Bottom
The full bottom shoe refers to the footwear that the upper body covers from the sole of the foot, and the design method is quite special.
1. finished product design plan
As shown in Fig. 2-5-15, the two fold ridge structure and cross stitch method are applied to the wrinkles on the toe.
The back pack of the shoe is also integrated with the sole, and also needs to punch holes and seams.
Note that the length of the bottom port should not exceed the 1/2 of the heel width of the sole when the package is designed, otherwise, the design effect will be affected.
The shoe covers are fitted with shoes, and the shoes are turned over without using Baotou and main heel.
The structure of the whole bag bottom shoes refers to the structure of the shoe body, so we need to design the whole tongue cover and outer ear shoes first, then design the shoes body.
2. structure design drawing
As shown in figure 2-5-16, there are shoe eye positions, false lines, perforations of decorative strips and holes in the lock holes on the ears of shoes.
There is a difference between the inside and outside of the shoe cover. The punch is designed, the front part is 6/6, the latter is 7/7, and the rear pocket is up to 8/6.
The bottom should not be stretched. It is necessary to make an accurate distinction between inside and outside.
3. make a sample of the compromised shoe cover.
As shown in figure 2-5-17, the hole is placed in the position of 2mm.
Due to the larger sample size of the whole bag, the compromise design method is adopted, so the shoe cover, the fence strip, the bottom port and the bottom template do not need to distinguish between the inside and outside, but take the position of the contour line 1/2 inside and outside as the center line.
Pay attention to the shoe cover is a compromise model, no difference between inside and outside.
The dotted line in the picture indicates the center line of the shoe cover.
4. make the surround and back and sample.
As shown in figure 2-5-18, the boilerplate is a compromise template, including the midline of the bottom.
The stubble quantity is placed at the back end, and the needle L is hit on the stubble line.
The surround and the back and the templates are used as duplicated boards.
5. make the shoe center commode.
The shoe bottom template should be used to shorten the 3mm last sample and draw the outline.
Then draw the contour line on the outside side, find the middle line inside and outside the center, and make the symmetrical model inside and outside.
As shown in the solid line in figure 2-5-19.
6. design of shoe structure
The design of shoe structure is shown in figure 2-5-20, and the steps of shoe body structure design are as follows:
(1) design the rear package and the contour line to extend the symmetry line AB of the sole lengthwise so that the Bb length is equal to the length of the rear package and the curve length.
Then measure the length of Ba along the rear arc line of the sole, equal to the length of the bottom port of the rear package.
The rear package and the contour line are traced along the aB - line using the back pack and the copy board.
Note: the outline of the rear heel will be longer, so it should be connected in a way of punching and wrinkling, but the length of the rear arc and the length of the bottom can not be changed.
(2) after the design, the contour line is used to fold the contour strip, and the template is placed on the edge of the center of the shoe center. The back tangent C is found. The length of the sole CA is equal to the length of the CD, and then the outline of the back is drawn.
Note that the amount of stubble on the surround is an additional quantity.
The distance between the D point and the a point will not interfere with the connection.
There will be a gap between the fence and the sole. Transfer the size of the part to the center line and remove it.
As shown in the shadow of the picture, when the connection is taken, the gap is used to sew the gap with the sewing machine.
(3) the contour line of the front part is designed by using the method of wheel rotation before drawing the outline line of the front side, as shown in the dotted line.
After the design of the shoe contour, you can get a sample of the shoe body, as shown in figure 2-5-21.
The position of punching is designed on the shoe body template. It is also found through the length difference, the amount of wrinkles and the spacing between holes.
There is a solid line between the two rows of holes at the back end to be cut off, so that it can be easily folded and folded.
The middle part of the shoe needs to be pieced together.
The whole shoe upper will be formed after assembling the shoe ears.
Note: the difference between the inside and outside of the shoes is still there. The sample of the shoe covers is designed to facilitate the design of the shoes. The shoes and ears have nothing to do with the design of the shoes.
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