Rest In Peace, Master.

 

As in literary and artistic circles, there are many loud surnames in fashion history, but not everyone can become Chanel, Dior or Balenciaga.

　　
It seems that every once in a while, the fashion industry will emerge an ambitious rich man trying to revive a glorious fashion house. Over the past few years witnessed the return of Vionnet, Ossie Clark, Halston and Biba (with varying degrees of failure), Tod's boss Diego Della Valle has not been able to take the new action after buying Schiaparelli, and the latest addition to the war is the Worth established in 1858. The most famous perfume brand of the brand is a prophecy: I will come back.

　　
A British businessman named Martin McCarthy is promoting the new round of fashion archaeology. A few years ago, he bought the intellectual property rights of Worth and hired the Italian Giovanni Bedin as designer. The latter showed second Worth custom tailoring series since January of this year in Paris's advanced custom fashion week, eight of which are decorated with colorful nail beads, Vitoria pleats or contrasting colored skirts. The style is Retro like museum collections, with layers of lining and removable puckles, while the hem is as high as a short skirt of ballet, but the shortest is 65 centimeters long.

　　
It is understood that the Worth clothing series will be available next year, and will also open a store in Paris and London. Perhaps McCathy will learn from the success of Balmain, the main expensive customized garments, and timely launch some perfume and other peripheral products. However, as far as the bra series is concerned, I think no one can wear them except DitaVon Teese.

　　
Worth fashion house will bring them up in front of fashion history students. The founder, Charles Frederick Worth, is known as "the founder of custom clothes". It is the first designer to use real models in history. He also pioneered the practice of marking brand names on clothes. It can be said to contribute a lot to modern fashion. However, how old is the old man who died in 1895 (Christian Dior was not even born)? Who will check Wikipedia before shopping? In the final analysis, why do we need a fashionable house that is eliminated by history?

　　
In the view of businessmen, a well-known brand has a higher probability of success than the new brand, so it is more worthy of investment. In the last century, many people tried to save Elsa Schiaparelli and Jacques Fath's fashion houses. At last, none of them came to an end. In 2006, nearly 70 years after the closure of the Vionnet fashion house, the French rich two generation Arnaud de Lummen wanted to turn Vionnet into the next Chanel, "because only Vionnet can match its status." However, a few years later, the boss of Vionnet has changed hands several times, and the designer has changed from Sophia Kokosalaki to Marc Audibet and RodolfoPaglialunga. The expectation of that year has now come to an end.

　　
At the pinnacle of her career, MadeleineVionnet employs 1200 employees, and there are subordinate nurseries and dentists at the headquarters of the 6 storey building on Montaigne Avenue. However, the "skew Queen" did not return as Chanel did after World War II. When Chanel was reborn in the hands of Wertheimer family and Karl Lagerfeld, Vionnet gradually faded into a piece of tulle and a surname on the fashion design textbook, though it was a wonderful surname that could be Lenovo.

　　
As in literary and artistic circles, there are many loud surnames in fashion history, but not everyone can become Chanel, Dior or Balenciaga. This is not a good thing. Businessmen think that the fashion industry has a set of successful models. They are jealous of the perfect restoration of Gucci style. They think it can be easily copied, but there is often no logic in fashion. Instead of trampling on the treasures of old masters and blaspheming their names, why not focus on young designers? After all, the fashion industry has not seen a new fashion house for too long.

　　
Gladiator undefeated

　　
Men's Gladiator shoes return to our view after the destruction of Rome empire in 1800. I couldn't believe it at first. Liberty Department informed me two months ago that the well-designed men's climbing flat shoes will become one of the fashion trends in 2010. I thought it was ridiculous as the Italy football team failed to qualify in the world cup. But Liberty shopping director Ed Burstell has plenty of solid evidence to support his conjecture.

　　
He said: "we will have the most primitive shoes that are more than ankles, and there will be more commercialized commercialization of the Gladiator shoes on the Burberry Prorsum2011 spring men's wear show. British designer Stella McCartney revealed that she was ashamed to admit that she was" fashionable "since she was a child.

　　
"When I was invited to a dinner party and asked by my deskmate for a job, I would say," Oh, design! " When I fill out the visa form, I also write "design" in the occupation column. But don't get me wrong. I love my work! "

　　
Why is that? And why is it now? Gladiator shoes may flourish in the prosperous empire of Rome, but it is a time when everyone wears robes, poets do not need state subsidies, slavery is popular, and people use anchovy oil as seasoning. Times have changed.

　　
I doubt Burstell's words. But then, on the Burberry show in Milan men's wear, a pair of Gladiator shoes appeared in front of me in the background music of the song 'You' ll Never Walk Alone.

　　
This time, Christopher Bailey tried all the windbreaker elements in the movie midnight cowboy, and also had rivets and leather jackets in the free riders, Sid and Nancy, and even a trench windbreaker with rivets. Most of the models are equipped with Gladiator shoes, though they use Birkenstock comfortable and thick bottomed shoes, but in any case, they look different from those worn by RussellCrowe in the Gladiator movie.

　　
So where did this trend come from? Burstell knows, and this time I am convinced of his words: "in recent years, men's clothing imitated the fashion trend of women's clothing last season. Narrow leg pants, men's bags, narrow leather jackets, "wake up hair" and anorexia look, now it's the Gladiator shoes. Ah, by listening to what he said, everything became reasonable. No wonder that nasty Haren pants can be swept from women's clothing to men's clothing all the way. No wonder men are getting thinner and more feminine, and more and more like women supermodels nowadays. After years of exploration, designers finally found a model for men's wear and women's wear. So I bet that in London's 2011 spring and summer fashion week in September, when Burberry releases a series of men's inspiration, the rivet windbreaker will be worn on women.

　　
There are many other anecdotes. For example, Cline's boyfriend jeans and Stella's streamlined aesthetics are inspired by men's clothing. Fashion is a way of delineation of gender differences, but now it is becoming more and more erased. In any case, no matter what people do is to save publicity and production costs, or create a new gender equality in the fashion world, they can not solve the sunburn marks left by Gladiator shoes after the summer.