Cheongsam: Freehand Rose Life
Cheongsam recorded the development process of dress culture in an era, which is an important historical memory in modern Chinese society.
In the late 20s of the last century, the fashion of Shanghai was the same as that of Europe and the United States. From the Qing Dynasty to now, cheongsam's association was still graceful, graceful and graceful.
Cheongsam recorded the elegance and recorded the rose life of women in every era.
Speaking of Shanghai, we will definitely mention cheongsam.
Although cheongsam did not originate in Shanghai, cheongsam was popular in Shanghai in 20s and 30s, swaying from Eileen Chang to the old Shanghai.
Eileen Chang used to describe the fashionable dress of women in Shanghai in 40s by wearing "Qipao, tassel shawls and dark patterns".
Elegant turn of Cheongsam
The history of cheongsam can be traced back to Manchu people living outside Guan.
Because Manchu people are known as "banners", the robe worn by them is called "Qipao".
At that time, the "cheongsam" of Manchu was linked up and down, with round collar, wide front and back, long clothes and slits, tight sleeves, and both men and women could wear them.
In the cold weather outside the territory, the nomadic people's life style of riding and hunting has spawned warm clothing.
Until now, many people in the rural areas of Northeast China like to wear similar gowns.
Today, the style of cheongsam has changed significantly. In addition to retaining the original core elements, cheongsam has made innovations in cutting, decoration, texture and interest, integrating into the rhythm and demeanor of modern society.
From 30 to 40s twentieth Century, it was a turbulent period in Chinese history. Cheongsam also changed with the historical changes.
In 30s only, the style of the early 20s follows the style of the cheongsam, and the length of the hem is slightly above the knee.
Around 1932, high-heeled shoes became a symbol of women's Liberation and entered China.
In order to increase the beauty of high-heeled shoes, the cheongsam's hem lengthens, which makes women look slender and sexy.
During the war of resistance against Japan in 1937, women from all walks of life took an active part in the campaign of resisting Japan and saving the nation.
The neckline of cheongsam has been lowered, the robe has been shortened year by year, the slit has been gradually increased, and the sleeves have become slender and long.
This is convenient for running and saving cloth.
This period is also the period when cheongsam is internationalized.
When Song Meiling spoke to the US Congress in 1943, he wore a black gold velvet cheongsam.
The success of the speech also made the Westerners feel the beauty of Eastern women for the first time.
Since then, cheongsam, as a representative of Oriental culture, has gradually become popular in the West.
For a long time after the founding of the people's Republic of China, cheongsam almost disappeared in the mainland due to political and economic reasons, but cheongsam is still popular in Hong Kong, Taiwan and overseas Chinese.
After the reform and opening up, Qipao went through a strange "reflux".
Making good works with diligently
Cheongsam is tailored to its tailored body, excellent workmanship and unique decoration. It is most concerned with tailoring and handcraft. However, because of its exquisite workmanship and long time consuming, it has been impacted by the development of modern garment making. The traditional technology has been on the verge of being lost.
In addition to working hard to inherit and protect traditional cheongsam crafts, Gao Chunming and others are also striving to explore new ways of cheongsam with ancient and modern fusion.
In fact, cheongsam's first development in Shanghai is not accidental.
At that time, Shanghai opened a port for a long time, and many cultures collided here. It not only created Shanghai's eclectic cultural soil, but also made Shanghai's mentality open.
The popularity of cheongsam is closely related to the unique promotion of clothing companies.
The old Shanghai film industry is flourishing. These clothing companies sponsor female stars and dress them in cheongsam.
Ruan Lingyu, Hu Die, Zhou Xuan and other famous movie stars all use cheongsam as an important fashion.
When the new movie was released, the cheongsam style worn by the stars was also hung out in the shop.
Magazine covers and calendar cards are also important battlefields for cheongsam advertising.
Cheongsam became the card that the female stars appeared at that time.
The beauty of cheongsam on international T stage
On the international fashion stage, a famous luxury brand set off a "Chinese style" on the T stage.
Mark Bohan and Saint Laurent, the two famous designers of the brand, used bold Chinese collar, armpit buttons, slit sides and other Qipao elements in the design.
Saint Laurent later launched a special cheongsam show, which was equally popular.
This trend has inevitably affected the fashion industry in China. Many Chinese designers have reexamined the beauty of cheongsam. With today's cheongsam, in addition to retaining the original core element cheongsam, details such as buttons have been integrated into the rhythm and demeanor of modern society.
Cheongsam worn by the early Manchu people
Magazine covers and calendar cards are also important battlefields for cheongsam advertising. Qipao became a card for women stars at that time. In 1943, when Song Meiling spoke in the US Congress, he wore a black gold velvet cheongsam. He used the cheongsam as an oriental culture to promote the world cheongsam as a blueprint for fashion.
To make the domestic people aware of the beauty of cheongsam largely owes to the movie "the mood for love".
In the movie, the more than 20 sets of Qipao worn by Maggie Cheung are magnificent, deeply impressed by literature and art, and very much in keeping with the nostalgic theme of the film, making the cheongsam popular again overnight.
The women of cheongsam, their existence is like a symbol.
There is toughness and grace; wisdom and warmth; beauty and calm; contradictions and integration, noble and calm.
And they also know how to show their Chinese style "taste" properly, put on the cheongsam, and deduce an elegant rose life.
Shanghai Xinghewan, a cheongsam evolution visual feast will also soon come to the stage. "The second China Star River conference" will be unveiled in the near future. At that time, Guo Pei, the designer of the cheongsam design, will carry more than 10 pieces of cheongsam on the scene of Chateau Star River Hotel in Shanghai to build a long and elegant silk road with you.
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