MGM Reminds &Nbsp; The Creative Industry Is Warning.

　　 By China International fashion week Thinking jointly with MGM events

In the early morning of November 3, 2010, the MGM film group, the oldest American film giant, declared bankruptcy.

This shock to Hollywood and even the global film industry is not only manifested on the economic level, but also more prominently on the spiritual level. In those days, it could almost serve as a synonym for Hollywood and even the American film industry. Until the moment of bankruptcy, there were countless fans who were nostalgic. They watched the gone with the wind again and again, and countless reminiscence of the media.

Although it is emotionally difficult to accept the bankruptcy of MGM, the reason for MGM's bankruptcy is simple enough for people around the world to understand without any analysis - creativity is drying up.

　　 MGM One and a half days before bankruptcy, the 2010 China fashion week ended in complex emotions and various spuses. It is fair to say that some designers and their works on fashion week this year are the root of all emotions and drooling.

It is like a professional who is painfully summed up: "Chinese designers live in happiness, have such a high platform such as fashion week; have the art of dancing with the international standard; have the top models of the" one in a thousand "; from all over the world, makeup artists, stylists, and even transboundary artists can be invited to the scene, but why do I not see their happiness on clothes? I can not see the excitement that can excites me, and even from the works of some famous teachers, I can not see the future.

Thinking of that professional, and being stimulated by the "MGM event", I can not help but knead these two emotions together to form a reaction: MGM, to all. Cultural and creative industries It is a warning.

At this point, MGM can represent a person, a brand, also can represent an industry.

　　 Floating on the surface is called liveliness.

The marrow is called perfection.

Creativity and output can not be directly proportional to each other, but will become mutually exclusive and mutually stifled counterforce. Even in the most difficult years, MGM's movie production has never been weakened, and the lion's roars are constantly reminding people of the existence of the "old generation".

However, in addition to the "classic" labels that were reproduced many years ago, or the "great works" of a big sale were forced to follow the "follow up" and "prequel", and then made numerous sequels, and continued until people were angry to destroy the cinema, the so-called "high volume" production of MGM was like a poison, just like a poison, which would stifle people's expectations and sentimentally attached to emotion.

Even uncle Oscar, who has always been "respecting the old and loving the young", no longer looks up to Mikome's past high reputation. The bright and flowery stage of starlight has long been indifferent to the traces of Mikome's deep engraving.

China Fashion Week, which has been held for 14 years, has also carved many traces of designers. These traces become the pride of Chinese fashion and become the eternal beauty in our memory. They have won the Golden Summit with "ten best", and now they have been upgraded to "seniors" or "teachers".

Every year, these designers' predecessors and teachers still forget to return to the high-end stage of fashion week, holding different purposes and expectations, displaying their own "prolific work", and claiming that people are growing up, their works are maturing, my creative desire is strong, and the vitality of my works is also very strong. Yun Yun.

However, the works presented are puzzled by the year after year. This year, at a "senior" conference, the performance was not over half. An authoritative person sitting next to me could not sit still. With a hint of despair, he said in a low voice, "on the surface, I know what he wants to show, and it is very lively. I don't know what he wants to show from his bones. I can't see anything even a little bit deep. I'm just sorry, what a great surprise it was when he first appeared in fashion week years ago. Now, I'd rather go back in time."

Voice like this is not the only fashion show that only exists in an "older generation". The fashion week is like the imprint of MGM on Oscar. Why is it that today, when we talk about creative and strong culture, the creative designers, who are known as creative designers, bring people a sigh of inexplicable anger and endless emotion?

MGM was bankrupt, and Hollywood did not cause too much turbulence, because the creative industry that was relatively mature over the past century is still a successor.

If the designers of the older generation really need to settle down to break through, it should be a good opportunity for the designers to catch up with them, so that their predecessors feel the pressure of "successors" to force them to make progress. However, some of the new people in fashion week express themselves as professionals.

Since the "crossover" has become the buzzword in the fashion industry, the industry has almost reached the stage of "boundary". Designers, in particular, must once cross the boundaries to the utmost extent, but never think seriously. "Transboundary" is the creativity created by the combination of multiple forms of art from the core of the spirit. The above expert says that it is superficial and lively, and it is called perfection in deep bones. But what we see is the liveliness of the surface.

However, eager to make quick gains and quick gains, and making fun of others, the pursuit of "crossover" design can also be called creation. However, those works that are picked up by the designers of the fashion week of Paris in Milan do not know what they should be called.

Citing a famous sentence in a movie commentary: to learn from human studies is to learn to call parody, learn parody, learn art, deconstruct, and learn to pay tribute. Learning shameless is called plagiarism.

　　 Fashion week must be professional

Fashion can not be closed but can not be flattering.

On the day of the closing ceremony of fashion week, I met Zhang Xiaoli, Dean and fashion designer of the school of clothing at Sichuan Normal University. I was puzzled by some confusion in my mind, and I finally got a professional to spit out.

Zhang Xiaoli told me that during her fashion week this year, I heard a lot about her confusion, whether from professionals in the field, brand entrepreneurs or senior media people, who are confused or confused about the environment and atmosphere of the contemporary design world.

Why did this happen? Zhang Xiaoli's brief view suddenly gave me a sense of urgency. She said, "I think there are two main problems, one is the market, the other is the public opinion."

As far as I understand it, the market represents the alienation between consumers and fashion industries, and public opinion represents the responsibility and correct orientation of the media to the development of the industry.

Fashion week is a positive and good high-end platform, and it is also the most realistic and objective perspective in Chinese design circles. Ten years ago, five years ago, the fashion week featured exciting masterpieces, which reflected that the Chinese design world in that era was in the rush stage of flowers and brocade.

"At that time, the Chinese fashion market was in the period of transformation from homogeneity to individuation, which left virtually no space for designers to create." Zhang Xiaoli said.

Perhaps, as a professional stage such as fashion week, it is difficult for people to link them with market orientation. Although the concept of "fashion show" has been raised from the fashion week ago, the link between market and design is not a simple principle of "I can wear out the clothes you design," but more like "your design is my favorite."

When consumers change the fashion concept, they will lead to changes in the consumer market, and the changes in the consumer market will be fed back to designers and brands. Then designers and brands will have a clear direction and a positive desire to create. Such a big environment will promote the designers to develop their thinking, and put their style into the essence of the works in a down-to-earth way.

Therefore, the link between fashion week and consumer market is very close. This connection can be invisible, indirect, or even just a symbol of information, but it has great influence on designers from generation to generation.

Today, the fashion consumer market is different from what it was ten years ago five years ago. The cultivation of the personalized era has made the consumers today find the style or brand that they admire. If ten years ago, designers were the guide to the consumer market, so now, who is guiding the industry?

"Now is such an environment, consumers have their own brand, but these brands are often not released on fashion week. Nowadays most designers and their brands are rarely known by consumers. This causes the designer's creative direction to be out of touch with the market on the platform of fashion week, or this is one of the reasons why design inspiration and creative thinking are becoming more and more superficial nowadays.

Zhang Xiaoli's analysis is very reasonable, counting out the world's top 5 fashion week's press conference. Almost every brand has a strong "fans group" and a loyal consumer group. This is just like brain cells, which affects designers' creative mindset and direction all the time.

This international fashion week also can see this phenomenon. The famous brands such as the admiring and the northeast tiger have never been separated from the brand's "momentum" and "culture" all the year round. In addition, this year's men's wear design is obviously better than most of the women's wear designs. It's precisely because of the market inspection brands such as CABBEEN and Notting Hill.

So, after the fashion week, many people did not take part in this year's fashion week's regrets for white-collar workers. In the final analysis, they are the brands that have the market awareness to drive the fashion week, or the endless promise of industrial development through fashion week.

However, there is a problem that can not be avoided. The environment of the Chinese consumer market and the consumption consciousness of ordinary people can not be changed immediately. Even if there are several big brands in fashion week, the designer's works still can not become the "consumer main body" in the short time.

This is not the fault of the designer, but the particularity of the Chinese consumer market. People's recognition of Chinese designers is almost zero, and the recognition of designer's brand is limited to the exception of a few brands such as Jifen. Under such circumstances, how to solve the problem of designers being paranoid and blind without external driving force and market orientation? Zhang Xiaoli's "public opinion orientation" needs to be established and played at this time.

"I always feel that multimedia is afraid to make some comments. Now it is better. Because of the opening of the Internet, when the Internet is not available, the paper media or the TV media are all praises oriented, which is not likely to be of great help to the development of the industry. The media should have authoritative, fair and objective fashion reviews, and also play a role in linking the market with the industry, between the ordinary people and the designers. Zhang Xiaoli said.

It is understood that the art community already has a very authoritative platform for art criticism, which has a huge impact on this industry. Similarly, through MGM's view of the recent depression in the whole Hollywood, it has nothing to do with the lack of critics. The financial crisis has led to the unemployment of the vast majority of film critics, making the original film review career directly reduced to personal behavior. The lack of public opinion is like closing a door between the creator and the market. Finally, the proud producers and directors of Hollywood can not find the north.

Fashion design is also a part of cultural creativity. It is also an important part of changing life and changing the environment. We must establish an authoritative and fair public opinion orientation. We must have professional fashion reviews. If we want to establish such a system, we can gradually change the more impetuous design environment and the creative ideas of quick success and instant benefit from the root.

Zhang Xiaoli's remarks are a sincere proposal from an old industry. I can be sure that this is not the voice of a single person, but the vision shared by people of insight.