Local Mapping Using The Prototype (Collar)
Collar
Because collar and neckline are ornaments around the neck, others think it is the frame of face. It plays a very important role in clothing.
The collar shape is suitable for face shape as well as neck condition.
Here, it is best to explain several basic necklines and collar drawings, if they can be applied and developed in different kinds of clothing and design in the future.
Round collar
The neckline with a round neck along the neck root is also called the collar neckline.
Round collar
The size of neckline should be changed according to the different design.
The small neckline looks young, and the big neckline looks gorgeous.
For those with short and thick neck, it is more appropriate to open a little wider.
First overlap the front and rear neck points according to Yan, then join the shoulder line and draw the neckline.
Because this is the use of part drawing, the order is like this. In practice, it is to draw the front and rear necklines separately before making the contract line.
In the rear center, a large size is usually opened on the shoulder line with a large size of 1/2-1/3, which makes it more comfortable to wear.
But sometimes it changes according to design.
One word collar
The collar is to open the neckline crosswise, like the bottom of the neckline.
Give people a sense of gentleness and kindness.
This neckline is often used in dress.
The size of the neckline is enlarged according to the design, but if the chips are too large, the allowance will float on the collar.
Therefore, on the shoulder line position of the prototype, make the front collar line move along the horizontal direction to 0.5cm and reduce the neckline.
This size varies according to the size of the neckline and the prominence of the clavicle and the body of the chicken breast.
The rear shoulder is 0.5cm larger than the front shoulder. It is designed to distract the shoulder and conforms to the prominent shoulder swelling.
square neck
A neckline with four corners.
There are two cases where the front and back corners are square and the back neckline is circular.
Compared with the round collar and the one collar, it has more individuality.
Like the round collar, the neckline will increase the sense of luxury after opening.
Because the size of the side neck is smaller, the same size is taken before and after.
If you want to expand again, you have to move the front neckline as you mentioned before.
If the front collar line is perpendicular to the shoulder, it looks inclined, so it should be slightly closer to the center.
In order to give a straight line feeling, the horizontal line should be added with the radian of 0.3cm.
Again, the angle of the rear neckline should be decided by the extension line of the front collar line.
V collar
V collar
There are various shapes.
It has a wide V collar, a slender V collar, and a short V collar, so the styles are different.
But in general, it gives people a sense of maturity.
The scope of application is also extensive.
In addition to the evening dress, the depth of the V is generally the closest to the chest line. If you want to deepen it, you need to pad your chest. This should be a bit of a mind in design.
When drawing, if the back collar line moves slightly above the prototype, the V shape will be more beautiful.
Draw the front and rear necklines as follows.
Lapel
The name is usually the general name of shirt collar, it also includes open collar and seat collar.
Lapel
And so on.
Here is a lapel with the collar behind it, and the natural fold along the front line.
The collar is widely used according to the size of the neckline, the width of the collar, the material and so on.
The collar.
Drafting
It is the basis for explaining the collar in the future, so it is very important for us to fully understand its composition.
Before drawing, explain the following aspects:
The X size shown in the first is shown first.
The first step is to determine the neckline of the front and rear body, and then use it to draw the shape of the collar you want to produce.
Then draw the right angle line, draw the width and the width of the collar on the vertical line, set the front and back neckline dimensions on the horizontal line, and draw the shape of the collar.
After cutting around the shoulders, the outer dimension of the collar can reach the outer dimension of the collar in the middle, and then change to 2.
As a result, the X size is determined on the vertical line.
The bigger the difference between the collar and the collar, the larger the size of the leading edge, the larger the X will be.
In other words, according to the increase or decrease of X size, the size of the collar will be lengthened or shortened.
But according to the shoulders of the wearer, the inclination and weight of the clothes will also change.
After understanding this principle, the later cartography will be handy.
Start mapping.
First draw the base right line, take the neckline size at 3cm above the vertical line, then measure the front neckline size on the base line below.
This is the upper collar size.
In the back center, the collar of 3cm and the width of 3.5cm can be determined, which is connected with the front collar width 6cm.
Draw the contour line and draw the fold line.
Rectangular collar
Of a collar near a rectangle.
Have a sense of movement, often used in shirt collar.
Because such collar can be erected and worn down, the fold line is constantly changing. Therefore, when drawing, there is no need to draw a folded line.
The broken line of the predecessor is the assumed line.
The collar line moves slightly in a straight line than the fold line.
Flat collar
A flat collar is a collar with a low collar and a flat collar along the neckline.
According to the change of collar width and neckline, various shapes can be produced.
From children's clothing to women's clothing is widely used.
Draw on the neckline of your body.
First, at the acromion point.
Overlap before and after.
If the overlap is too large, the peripheral size will be smaller and the collar will be increased.
The collar line of the collar is at the back, which is about 0.5cm higher than the body, shorter than the neckline of the body, so that it can be pulled off the shoulders when the collar is on.
Collar
I am very obedient.
The sailor collar belongs to a flat collar. It is the name obtained from the collar of the navy uniform.
It often appears on the uniforms of female students, and appears to be full of vitality.
In drawing, the neckline of the front and rear body is the same as that of the flat collar.
The front neckline is V shaped downward, and the shape of the collar can be round or square, and can be changed freely.
Stand collar
The collar from the collar line is called the collar.
The width is casual, and there are such collar in boys' clothing.
When drawing, determine the collar line of the front and rear body, then make the collar with the collar line.
The larger the collar is raised in the front center, the closer it is to the neck. The smaller the raised size, the more away from the neck.
And the size is sometimes linked to the 1/4 of the neckline size, and sometimes it is connected to 1/3, but 1/3 has the feeling of leaving the neck.
Taking into account these factors, the collar of the collar can be freely decided by the design.
The collar of the collar moves 0.2cm in front of the collar, which is to make it straight with the front center of the body.
The size of the movement varies according to the inclination and collar width of the neckline.
Seat collar
Shirt collar
This collar is often used in shirts and blouses and has a sense of movement.
In structure, there is a lapel over the collar.
The drawing method of the seat collar can be considered the same as that of the collar.
The key points of drawing can refer to the lapel mentioned above.
The stronger the radius of the collar collar, the higher the radius of the collar neckline.
Open collar
The collar that connects the front collar to the collar is called the open collar.
The head can be wide, narrow and varied in shape.
Here is the basic type of open collar drawing.
In drawing, the dumping of collar is of great importance.
First, draw the desired collar shape on the front and rear body according to the one, and then extend the front collar according to the symmetry of the fold line.
The position of the front seat begins to draw the parallel line of the broken line, and takes the length of the neckline.
From the vertical line, it takes the back seat width and the rear collar width, and is connected with the front line of the front collar.
Because the predetermined peripheral dimension (+ + delta) is necessary, so cut off the extension line on the shoulder line as necessary and release the necessary dimensions.
In this way, the dumping size was determined.
This is a way of thinking from the point of view of drawing. In practice, there will be some discrepancy in terms of shoulder inclination and muscle development.
The larger the collar is, the longer the collar will be.
Therefore, when drawing, we must have a deep understanding of this relationship.
The following are the following methods:
(1) at the front neckline 1/3, the width of the front collar is set, which is approximately parallel to the shoulder line or slightly upward.
The end of the connecting collar and the broken line is the reed fold line.
Start from the position of the front seat. Draw the parallel line of the broken line, and lift the neckline from the side neck point.
2. Take the side neck point as the base point, the back neckline length as the radius, draw the arc, take the dumping amount 3cm on the arc line, and connect the side neck point with a straight line, this is the rear upper collar line.
The front upper line is drawn from the broken line to 1.5cm - 2cm to draw a straight line.
3. The vertical line of the upper collar line after hitting.
Fourth, set the front collar width. Draw the even contour.
Bow tie
The bow tie gives a lovely and gorgeous feeling.
The width and length of the collar depends on the result.
The upper collar must be taken into consideration of the thickness of knotting.
If you want to cut it into a skew yarn, you will feel soft.
After setting the collar width, take the upper collar size (+).
The upper collar stop is offset from the center to 3cm. because of the thickness of the knot.
The leader began to decide that relaxing the front would increase the sense of luxury.
shawl collar
Scarf Collar, tie like tie tie the drooping collar in front.
Its drawing can also be straight like the bow tie, but when radian is formed like this, it will also induce feminine gentleness.
First draw the basic right angle line, then draw the front and back neckline size according to the drawing.
The scarf is to extend the base line of the front upper collar by 10cm, and then play the vertical line 2cm, and connect it with the upper collar stop to decide on the extension line.
The width and length of the collar can be varied according to the design.
Then draw the outer line.
The collar is folded when it is dressed, but the broken line is changed according to the way it is worn. Therefore, it is not painted on the graph.
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