China'S Independent Architect Repeats Itself
In Europe, because the overall operation of the fashion industry is quite mature, an independent industry.
Designer
The typical way to become famous is to take part in a fashion contest, open a studio with a bonus, wait for the time to mature, find sponsors to support the show, and be among the fashionable buyers who are everywhere in the fashion week, and finally put the works into the COLETTE, L "ELAIREUR" or "GALERIE LAFAYETTE".
In contrast, the road to commercialization of Chinese local designers is much more frustrating: the pursuit of economies of scale, discrimination in the production of small workshops, and domestic fashion week with few buyers and self entertaining styles directly choke off the designer's two pulse from the source and destination.
Luckily, at present, China has a large growing fashion consumer group, enthusiastic folk sponsorship institutions and Chinese people's "vogue" new lifestyle, opening the door for them.
Butterfly effect caused by "not doing business"
"I am interested in anything related to fashion, and I have benefited greatly from collaborations with professional designers.
I don't want sales to be a creative pressure. "
In recent years, Zhou Xiangyu, Xander Zhou, the most recognizable local media designer, was a "well connected" graduate of Holland Den Haag clothing institute a few years ago. However, she built her own SOHO design studio in just a few years after her return, and her works were called well.
He not only guest editor in chief of fashion culture magazine, and cross brand cooperation with mature brands, as a movie costumes guide, but also repeatedly exported his own high quality custom works to major international film festivals, and produced a large number of loyal celebrities fans and star customers.
"People around me say that I am full of energy.
Latest fashion
I have been interested in related things, and I have benefited greatly from collaborations with professional designers.
For example, when the Designer completes his new work, he usually asks the designer to help arrange and combine the whole series.
But the domestic "modeling" aspect has been very weak, and it is difficult to find out a few "designer" who can get the name.
So whether I am a magazine designer or a designer designer, I have learned a lot: after working with so many photographers, it is more clear how to choose a new season.
Some people say that I am "not doing my job" because they do not know all about them.
Zhou Xiangyu has no confidence in marketing, but he is confident in the market of local designers who have no reference to follow. "It's not that I'm not worried about sales, but I don't want it to be the pressure of my creation."
My original intention of being a designer is because I love fashion, and contrary to this principle, there is no continuing significance.
I have no promotion team, and there is no suitable person or company to do this for me. "
But celebrity buying and media attention brought it.
Butterfly Effect
The new designers have felt the warmth.
The first Chinese designer, Hua Juan, who combines art with fashion, describes this as a "friendship". Among them, personal charm and social influence have great effect on designer's initial brand promotion.
Hua Juan's artist friend and customer has worked for Ferragamo. She also works with Leica camera and shoe brand ECCO. "We know each other and introduce new friends."
"Multiple identities" Chinese style buyer shops
There is no real buyer shop in China.
Chinese independent designers lack data, and no archive is available for reference.
In addition, their output is small, and they can not form large quantities of customized fabrics.
It is also necessary to build a commercial retail platform for ordinary consumers to accept local independent designers.
Strictly speaking, there is no real buyer shop in China.
Regardless of the background of the "peppermint glutinous rice onion" (B.N.C), or the new branch store to Shanghai "pillar", mostly consignment is the main.
Shopkeepers mostly embrace the feeling of "art patron" and do business for independent designers.
"We often organize designers and customers to get together and create inspiration, which is also an important part of fashion."
Hong Huang's "peppermint glutinous rice scallion" has achieved breakeven in the first year, and now it's more interesting than making money to solve the shortage of designers. "Chinese independent designers lack data.
For example, I have made 15 skirts this season, two out of stock, and others can not sell. Why? What do others sell well? These market data are many abroad, but domestic designers are hard to get.
In addition, designers lack information.
For example, I want to get some embroidery. How many embroidery methods do you have in China? What is the difference? How does it look? How much is it?
We do not have a repository for designers.
Third, the choice of fabric and accessories.
Local designers have small output and can not form large quantities of customized fabrics.
In order to break through this limitation, Hong Huang appealed to the government to pay attention to the use of social resources, and set up a "ilook/bnc scholarship" and sponsored outstanding but economically difficult students to learn fashion.
The "pillars" use their own influence of Pan literature circles to launch the "independent fashion designer and photographer" theme photography exhibition of "fashion photography" on the "loud Exhibition", take Chinese fashion designers to Poland design week, and even give designers advice on pricing and overall style.
"We may also make a market report to the designer half a month in advance.
Especially for designers who don't have shop opening experience, we should try to convey the response of consumers to them and point out a better direction for design.
Nan Liang, one of the founders of the "pillar", told the media.
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Waiting for luxury electric providers
"I do not exclude network sales. This is a new mode under the present age. But choosing what kind of network platform is very important, if we regard it as a sales channel, it will make the brand look very" no ".
Are there any opportunities for independent designers to come to China by buying strong foreign luxury electric providers?
Ecological breakthrough of independent designers in China
From the "familiar guest network" set up by Ma Meiyi, the first Asian buyer of Joyce Ma, to the new wardrobe network editor and publisher Li Jianing of "East and West SHOPPER", both of them are very interested in page aesthetics and user experience. They also say they will start searching for excellent independent designers in the mainland. However, in Hong Huang's words, the "boat that can carry a boat can also overturn the boat" may not be able to immediately attract the designer partners who agree with each other.
"I do not exclude Internet sales. This is a new model in the modern era and a new situation that has not been encountered in fashion history.
But choosing what kind of network platform cooperation is very important, if we regard it as a sales channel, it will make the brand look very "no".
Therefore, the whole shop's "hardware decoration", "credibility" and "crowd" become particularly important.
Taste is not the same.
Zhou Xiangyu admitted to our reporter.
In fact, most local designers are very demanding on the display space of their brands. If they haven't got a firm foothold on the mass network, they will lose their brand image.
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