The Origin And Research Of Chinese Costume Culture

The son appeared in the northern and Southern Dynasties, and was named during the Sui and Tang Dynasties.

In the Song Dynasty, it was included in the dress list.

In the Ming Dynasty, it was developed.

Xia is the dress of a court lady. Only when a married woman is able to marry, can she win the ceremony in accordance with the Chinese etiquette and propriety, which means that the occasions such as sacrificial rites and weddings can be leapfrogging upward instead of being overruled.

The beauty of a woman's life is regulated by colors and patterns.

The difference in grade is mainly expressed in ornamentation, as follows.

One or two, the wife of the lady of life is the Golden Dragon embroidered cloud, and the three or four products are gold embroidered clouds and peacock stripes, five embroidered clouds and mandarin ducks, six, seven embroidered clouds, and the eight, nine embroidery embroidered patterns.

It was originally only a kind of dress. According to experts, it originated from the "Zi Zi" of women in the Tang Dynasty.

But in the Song Dynasty, it became a part of women's dress and became a symbol of women's social identity.

In the Huang Sheng Tomb of the Southern Song Dynasty in Fujian, there were objects in the Song Dynasty, which were two long embroidered strips with long sharp corners connected to form a "V" shape.

The way to wear it is to put two long belts on the shoulders and connect them to the back of the neck, with the ends of the sharp ends hanging in front of the body, with a drop of gold or jade as a decoration.

This kind of Xia is part of the dress in the Song Dynasty, such as the Song History and public service records: "regular clothes, concubines, big sleeves, coloring collar, long skirts, summer and jade pendants."

The so-called "constant clothing" does not refer to everyday clothes, but formal ceremonial ceremonies other than ceremonial occasions outside the national ceremony.

Because it is part of a lady's formal dress, not everyone can admire it. So in the Song Dynasty court, the Empress Dowager named "Hongxia" and "Zixia" were derived.

In the nine years since the founding of the Shaoxing, the "harem of Han Dynasty is red Xia".

The Han Dynasty is generally referred to as the "harem". It shows that she is just an ordinary maid. She did not have any rank.

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Another example is Zhang Kuo's "east window collection" in the Song Dynasty, which includes "red Xia, Feng Shiyi, Zhang Zhennu, Chen Cuinu, Liu Shiniang, Wang Xi Nu" and so on. "Red Xia Bao Bao Er, Zi Xia Wang's slave and turn palm character system" is actually a "letter of appointment" issued by the emperor.

According to the "Chao Dynasty things" in the saying, in the palace's "wife of the inner wife", the character is eight characters, the palm character is the ninth grade, the lowest level is in the formal establishment of the imperial concubines and the female officials, while the Hongxia, purple Xia, and the lower status of listening, speaking, listening and straight are basically "not to be included in the product".

It can be seen that if the emperor likes a common maid, she often gives her a name of Hongxia or Zixia, which makes her different from the general maid.

If the maid could continue to win the favor of the emperor, it would be possible to be formally concubined and occupy an upright seat in the ritual system.

Why do we call it "Hongxia" and "Zixia"? Presumably, ordinary maids do not wear the right of Xia, so the maid who is favored by the emperor will be specially given the red Xia or purple clouds.

In various courtesy occasions in the palace, the empress dresses who have formal titles should wear regular dress according to their respective rules, but the maiden ladies who have not yet obtained the title will certainly not have this qualification. However, they can wear the red and shallows and purple clouds to show their special identities.

It can be seen from the literature that the emperors of the Song Dynasty rewarded the red and purple clouds, which was quite generous. There were often low-level concubines in the court.

For girls like Chen Cuinu and Liu Shiniang, apparently born in the lower classes of society, it is no doubt like a ticket for them to enter the playground for concubines.

Among the concubines of Gao Zong in the Southern Song Dynasty, one Liu began to enter the palace from the "red Xia" and rose to the imperial concubine all the way.

But once the fight fails, the fate of Usher is also particularly tragic.

Kitasong Tetsumunemiku, the empress dowager, ordered the removal of a group of concubines and palace figures from zhe Zong. Among them, a Korean woman was descended from the five talents to Hongxia.

The Empress Dowager accused the Korean talents of the wrong way, bad temper, and "with the name of Hongxia, so that they went to guard the mausoleum". In fact, they were forced to give Han's most humble concubine's identity.

Here, "Hongxia" has become a means of plotting and a sign of insult.