The Present Situation And Future Of Hangzhou Women'S Clothing

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In the mid 90s of last century,

What made up today's Hangzhou women's clothing? What's the status quo and how will it develop in the future? On the related issues, the reporter interviewed Meng Ping, the vice president and Secretary General of Hangzhou women's wear trade association, and a picture of the development of Hangzhou women's clothing became stereoscopic.

Reporter: what is the development history of Hangzhou women's clothing in the past 20 years? What are the characteristics of each stage?

Meng Ping: the development of women's clothing in Hangzhou can be roughly divided into 4 stages.

The first stage is the start stage.

Hangzhou women's wear started formally in 1994. At that time, a group of college students majoring in clothing began to start their own business, and laid a certain foundation for Hangzhou women's wear.

There are not many brands in the beginning. There are probably 5 or 6 brands, such as romantic life and Jiangnan cloth dress. At this time, Hangzhou women's clothing has its own style, that is, the lady style of Jiangnan Water Village.

The second stage basically from 1995 to 1998, Hangzhou women's clothing entered a growing period.

During this stage, the number of women's clothing brands increased, and some brands completed primitive accumulation and began to expand reproduction.

The third stage from 1999 to 2005, Hangzhou women's clothing entered a stable development period.

Around 2000, Hangzhou women's wear began to grow stronger and stronger, with nearly 300 brands, almost half of the women's clothing brand in China, and more than 1000 women's clothing enterprises. At the same time, after 2000, the market eliminated a number of small businesses, and a large number of large enterprises continued to develop steadily.

Later, we put forward the slogan of "Chinese women's clothing to see Hangzhou", and the government also began to intervene in support. Hangzhou women's clothing grew faster.

Since 2005, Hangzhou women's clothing has entered a mature stage, and is also a new era for the development of women's clothing in Hangzhou.

At this stage, the market began to differentiate. Some brands built up other brands besides the main brands, and began to differentiate and develop.

For example, the ancient wooden sunset sheep made OTT, Jiangnan cloth Yi founded the "sketch" men's clothing brand, Akimizu Ito made the high-end brand of COCOON.

Nowadays, Hangzhou women's wear is starting to carry out multi brand operation, based on the strong and strong, strong and stable main brand, and increasing the development of other sub brands.

In addition, at this stage, different styles of brands began to appear, some brands began to take the international route, and the sales of individual brands reached 1 billion yuan.

The high-end brand is a brand development road for Hangzhou women's wear.

The clothing market of Hangzhou women's clothing was mostly in the two or three line market and even the rural market in the past, but now many brands are actively developing to the first tier cities.

Reporter: what's the reason for Hangzhou's women's wear today?

Meng Ping: first of all, although Hangzhou women's clothing began to start in 1994, the number of brands was very small, but it had the unique style of lady in the south of the Yangtze River.

Therefore, Hangzhou women's clothing was recognized by the market at that time.

It is precisely because of this foundation that there is a rapid development of Hangzhou women's wear.

Secondly, there are many garment colleges and universities in Hangzhou, such as Zhejiang Sci-Tech University and The China Academy of Art, which have nurtured many fashion designers.

In the late 90s of last century, students who graduated from Hangzhou's major clothing colleges and universities began to start their own business with their dreams.

At that time, the venture capital investment did not need to be too big, and a small processing plant could be done.

In addition, the market access threshold at that time is low, and the market demand is large, but any clothing with its own unique design style can occupy a place in the market.

It is precisely a large number of students who graduated from the professional clothing colleges and universities to start their own businesses and gradually expand their brands to consolidate the foundation for the development of women's clothing in Hangzhou.

Thirdly, the success of Hangzhou women's wear also comes from the support and promotion of Hangzhou's professional associations and government.

In 2000, Hangzhou women's clothing trade association was established. This is the beginning of the pition from the family workshop to the team spirit and the overall consciousness of Hangzhou enterprises. It is an important event in the history of Hangzhou's clothing development.

Since 2001, the Hangzhou municipal government has launched policies to support the development of women's clothing industry in Hangzhou.

For example, the establishment of women's clothing industry special development funds, the annual municipal financial arrangements special funds 3 million yuan, for the award of famous brands, the selection of "ten strong enterprises", "ten brands", "ten designers" and so on, to promote the development of Hangzhou women's clothing has played a great role.

After 2004, the government raised the support funds from 300 to 2000 in a year.

After the establishment of Hangzhou women's clothing trade association, we began to organize enterprises to participate in CHIC (China International Clothing and Accessories Fair) in Beijing.

On CHIC2002, the Hangzhou municipal Party committee and municipal government put forward the slogan "Chinese women's clothing to see Hangzhou".

It can be said that a period of time before and after 2001 is a historical turning point in the development of women's clothing in Hangzhou.

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After the intervention of the government in 2001, the Joint Industry Chamber of Commerce, coupled with the efforts of the enterprises themselves, the three forces joined forces, and Hangzhou women's clothing gradually entered the fast lane of development.

Reporter: compared with Shenzhen women's wear and Wenzhou women's clothing, what are the distinctive features of Hangzhou women's clothing? Where are the advantages of Hangzhou women's wear?

Meng Ping: Wenzhou women's clothing has developed a lot in recent years than before, but in general it is not scale.

Because Shenzhen is close to Hongkong, it receives fast information and is more susceptible to the influence of Hongkong fashion. Many garment enterprises in Shenzhen have made foreign trade and later become brands. Therefore, they absorbed more European and American fashions during their foreign trade, and the degree of internationalization might be even higher.

Hangzhou is located in the south of the Yangtze River. Its clothing is inevitably influenced by its regional culture and has established its own unique genre style.

Hangzhou women's clothing is beautiful, unique and unique in the market.

However, some brand styles are gradually changing. Some brands integrate Hanfeng into the Jiangnan ladies style of Hangzhou women's wear. Some big brands begin to absorb the styles of Europe, America and Japan.

For example, Jiangnan cloth absorbed Japanese style and characteristics. Akimizu Ito absorbed some Hanfeng, and COCOON absorbed European style.

Reporter: at present, the development of domestic garment industry has encountered some problems.

Then, what are the problems encountered in the development of Hangzhou women's clothing and how to solve them?

Meng Ping: now, there are 2 to 3 women's clothing companies that can make 1 billion of sales in Hangzhou. There are more than 10 enterprises in 1 to 5 hundred million enterprises, but there are still more specific problems in their continuing development, such as the employment problem, labor and capital problems and business tax.

The problems encountered by women's clothing enterprises in development are similar to those in other industries and enterprises.

Generally speaking, there are quite a few small and medium-sized garment enterprises in Hangzhou. There are so few things that businesses can do to mortgage, so it is very difficult to borrow money from banks. In this regard, we are actively consulting with the government and communicating with banks.

Reporter: clothing enterprises in many places reflect the tension in land use and employment, especially in the Yangtze River Delta and the Pearl River Delta region.

What is the situation of Hangzhou in this respect?

Meng Ping: in Hangzhou, there are other economically developed areas, such as Shenzhen, where the land used for business is relatively tight, and now the land cost is too high. Therefore, we all suggest that enterprises pfer the production part to the western region, or near the central provinces, and retain the design marketing part locally.

However, there are not many enterprises that actually move out. After all, local management is more convenient and far away. There are still some problems in production management and recruitment.

Therefore, some enterprises now give the production to special processing enterprises and throw away the burden of production, and the main part is their own production.

Employment has been very intense for two years, and many enterprises have expressed difficulties in recruiting workers.

Because the central and western regions themselves are developing, migrant workers prefer to stay in their hometown to develop, which has a great impact on employment in Hangzhou and other places.

At the same time, now 80, 90 are willing to engage in the clothing industry too few people, clothing production is a very hard thing.

Labor costs are also rising, most of the small and medium-sized enterprises simply can not afford.

In this regard, the chamber of Commerce will help them link up with other labor export provinces such as Guangxi, or even foreign countries, such as DPRK, which are willing to export labor services.

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Reporter: Hangzhou has a famous Sijiqing clothing wholesale market.

What is the important role of the market in promoting the development of women's clothing in Hangzhou?

Meng Ping: wholesale markets like Sijiqing play a bigger role in the early days.

At the early stage of development, the entry threshold of clothing was lower. Wholesale markets such as Sijiqing were a major channel. They could be shipped quickly through the wholesale market. Many brands made the first pot of gold in the wholesale market, and then they got agents from the wholesale market, which promoted their development.

With the gradual development of the brand, some brands coming out of the wholesale market to go shopping channels and do exclusive stores also left the market.

Like Jiangnan Buyi and autumn people, they came out of the wholesale market. They later became excellent brands in Hangzhou and even in China.

Reporter: what should Hangzhou women's dress do next?

Meng Ping: in the future, large enterprises with more than 1 billion sales should go public. If we want to go a more formal way, the development space will be bigger.

Small and medium-sized enterprises should lay aside the burden of production and processing, and develop in marketing, logistics and so on.

In terms of marketing, they should expand their channels according to their own characteristics. In terms of logistics, the logistics of women's clothing in Hangzhou is still relatively elementary and extensive.

If these problems are not solved, the constraints on the development of enterprises will be very large.

Hangzhou is located in the south of the Yangtze River. It is not only rich in economy, but also known as the "Silk house". Its silk culture is rich in content.

The silk culture in Hangzhou and the developed silk industry are the unique conditions for the development of Hangzhou women's clothing.

Influenced by traditional silk culture, Hangzhou and its surrounding areas have become the focus of textile industry.

The China Light Textile City in Keqiao, Shaoxing, is the largest textile and silk professional market in China, plus several specialized small and small markets such as Hangzhou Silk City, which has created a good environment for the start of Hangzhou women's wear.

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It is no coincidence that women's wear in Hangzhou has been developing rapidly in a short time and in the whole country.

Hangzhou women's clothing can be said to be a product of the combination of Hangzhou's history, culture, silk culture, landscape culture and modern fashion culture.

Hangzhou has a long history, beautiful scenery and talented people. It has a history of 5000 years from the origin of Liangzhu culture to the present.

In this long history, the prosperity of Liangzhu culture, Wu Yue civilization and Song Nan Nan Du has become a shining chapter in the history of Hangzhou.

It contains the freshness of the West Lake. The Hangzhou women's clothing has gained a place in the domestic market with the unique style of Jiangnan waterfront beautiful and beautiful.

With the development of the economy and the pformation and upgrading of the garment industry, Hangzhou women's clothing is constantly changing, integrating traditional culture with European and American dress design concepts.

There is media evaluation, because of this, it has formed the unique personality of Hangzhou women's clothing today, which is "fresh and not frivolous, avant-garde, and exquisite."

Brand of "academics"

Hangzhou has The China Academy of Art, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Zhejiang University of Science and Technology and other institutions of higher learning with clothing specialty. Every year, many excellent talents of clothing are trained for all parts of the country, and they are the cradles of fashion designers.

Generally speaking, Hangzhou women's wear brand designers mostly come from professional schools such as The China Academy of Art. The background of academic background has made the name of Hangzhou women's wear "academy".

Relying on the "academy" designer of Hangzhou women's clothing, the grasp of the trend is natural and unique.

Their designs do not deliberately copy fashion, "graceful", "Ladies" and "bookish". These are used to describe Hangzhou women's clothes, though they are appropriate, but they seem to be too general.

Because of the special sensitivity to fashion, Hangzhou women's clothing always changes little in popularity while controlling the popularity.

So there is a detailed difference in the overall style, which makes Hangzhou women's clothes feel familiar and bright.

Qian Feng, President of Hangzhou Fashion Designers Association, thinks that Hangzhou is like Milan, with profound culture and beautiful scenery.

"Aesthetical atmosphere is conducive to the cultivation and development of designers."

Shi Jie, general manager and creative director of Hangzhou JS Fashion Co., believes that Hangzhou is a city that pays more attention to lifestyle. Hangzhou people feel more deeply about beauty and experience of quality of life, and bring good design demands to designers.

For example, Jiangnan cloth Yi expressed the pursuit of life quality and life style.

In general, designers in Hangzhou are not driven by commercialization. They can express certain concepts of life when designing.

For designers who deeply influenced the development of women's wear in Hangzhou, Wu Haiyan, vice president of the school of design art of The China Academy of Art, said that graduates from The China Academy of Art generally stayed in Hangzhou, which played a great role in the training and development of Hangzhou women's wear designers.

Colleges and universities have provided theoretical support for the development of Hangzhou women's clothing from design and technology.

Qian Feng said that Hangzhou's colleges and universities had strong foundation strength and concentrated a large number of excellent talents.

Some of these outstanding talents later became the backbone of the garment enterprises. Some of them became excellent fashion entrepreneurs, but also brand designers. These designers led the growth and development of the new brands.

For Qian Feng, he is also a designer and entrepreneur who teaches clothing from Hangzhou colleges and universities.

"I started early in clothing, and founded the blue and blue brand in 1993. It is the first batch of women's clothing brands in Hangzhou, which is similar to Jiangnan cloth and romantic life."

Qian Feng told reporters.

He said that because he was a designer, he would not consider processing trade first.

"Many clothing brand enterprises in Shenzhen are the predecessors of foreign trade, and the boss himself does not know clothes, but he understands the management of the entire supply chain, understands marketing, and therefore develops rapidly."

Qian Feng told reporters that many brands, including blue color, started thinking about design from the beginning, started from a small workshop, insisted on the road of brand development, insisted on brand positioning, brand culture, and gradually expanded.

"Deep blue mining of professional women elegant women, adhere to their own style in such a cultural background, most women's clothing in Hangzhou is also like this."

Shi Jie is the creative director of women's clothing brand "Jasper".

He graduated from the fashion design department of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University in 1994, and then stayed in school to teach.

As for the pformation from teacher to designer, he thinks that being a teacher is more regular and making a brand more expressive.

"Designers are more likely to express their inner feelings through clothing."

So, in 1998, Shi Jie founded the "Jasper" brand. In 2008, he formally resigned from the school and concentrated on his clothing business.

In fact, Hangzhou, as a talented designer, brings natural advantages to the branding development of women's clothing. However, many designers have been puzzled by designers because they don't understand the market and how to balance the relationship between design and business.

Shi Jie said: "like me, people who design and design to do business, the middle road is relatively difficult to walk. Our business learning is a long-term process.

Designers sometimes have to take a lot of detours in doing business, because designers are sometimes idealistic, they want to stick to themselves, but they do not want to compromise with the market easily.

The process of my detours is also a process of seeking balance between design and business two, in order to better connect the design and the market.

According to Shi Jie, before 2006, he has been seeking balance between design and business, focusing on accumulation. This period is relatively long.

But after a long time of precipitation, from 2006, Shi Jie really brought "JS" into the brand operation stage of the designer, and passed his thoughts through the brand.

In 2006, Shi Jie made the first release on the China fashion week. "Jasper" formally entered the stage of designer brand structure and systematic expression.

Since 2008, "CHIC" has continuously participated in the China International Clothing and accessories fair to further convey its brand idea, style and culture to the industry.

Since 2010, Shi Jie has participated in the Paris fashion week's China creative exhibition as a designer. He used modern techniques and modern design to express Chinese traditional art ideas through clothing.

"Jack Shi" is an independent brand in China, expressing Chinese culture.

It is precisely because I use internationalized thinking and modern techniques to express something in Chinese traditional culture and art that I won the Creative Award of Asahi Asahi Chinese fashion designer not long ago.

Said Shi Jie.

In addition, it is worth mentioning that in order to make designers more effective in docking with the market, Hangzhou's China Textile and clothing information business center (hereinafter referred to as "China Textile Center") has built 116 fashion design creative gardens. After all, the designer's creativity can not produce value, and the value of designer or designer brand can not be reflected.

116 The Creative Park advocates that designers should be pushed to the forefront of the market and run in with the market, and designers should be used as a bridge to communicate with the industry and the market.

This is a good idea for designers to be creative, not to be good at marketing.

According to Meng Ping, vice president and Secretary General of Hangzhou women's clothing trade association, now, "China Textile Center" has set up a designer integration shop.

"Some designers have no funds. The samples they design can be displayed in the integrated store, and the" China spinning center "helps them to do marketing and promotion.

Wu Haiyan said that The China Academy of Art has always asked for the combination of theory and practice.

"The Chinese Academy of fine arts always feels the Chinese culture with its left hand, and touches the world culture with its right hand.

As a teacher, we must teach students creative products not only stay on the product level, but more importantly, we should push the products to the market.

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Hangzhou women wear like summer flowers.

The government is not absent.

Hangzhou women's clothing has the status of today, and the Hangzhou municipal government can't help it.

Qian Feng said that the Hangzhou municipal government has no strong support for traditional industries such as women's clothing, and no other city in China can be mentioned in the same breath.

"Some people think that Hangzhou may be making a mountain out of a molehill about the development of clothing, but I think a city's fashion and cultural diversity are made up of a single champion.

Over the past few years, the Hangzhou municipal government has been supporting a series of individual support from women's clothing capital supporting women's clothing to the electronic commerce capital such as IT, which supports Alibaba.

Only by grasping the characteristic individual items can Hangzhou achieve its results.

Now that Hangzhou is engaged in cultural and creative industries, culture is the strength of Hangzhou, and it can integrate women's clothing and a series of things. Why not? "

In an interview with reporters, Wu Haiyan said that to a certain extent, the development of Hangzhou women's clothing played a leading role.

Especially in the past 10 years, the government has made great progress in the development of women's clothing both in terms of policy and practical measures.

Reporters learned in the interview that the Hangzhou municipal government listed women's clothing industry as a key item in that year, and the development of women's clothing industry became an important breakthrough for Hangzhou's development of urban industry.

In order to better organize and coordinate this work, the Hangzhou municipal government has also set up a special "Hangzhou women's clothing development leading group".

After the Hangzhou municipal Party committee and municipal government established the goal of developing Hangzhou women's clothing industry vigorously, how to guide enterprises, support enterprises and manage enterprises with modern and international operation means and management mode has become a specific problem faced by Hangzhou's clothing industry.

In December 25, 2001, in the name of the municipal Party committee and the municipal government, Hangzhou held a special study to deploy the Hangzhou women's clothing industry development conference, and issued a number of opinions on accelerating the development of women's clothing industry.

The total number of opinions is 20. On the basis of extensive exchanges and surveys with the enterprises, the municipal government has listened to the opinions of 22 departments and has been formed 17 times.

The opinions give more preferential treatment and support to enterprises from the aspects of capital, technology and labor arrangement.

The municipal government proposes to strengthen cooperation with universities and promote the technological progress of women's clothing enterprises.

The municipal government will establish long-term cooperative relations with relevant institutions of higher learning at home and abroad, set up an expert library for women's wear, promote information exchange, continue to promote the three combinations of production, learning and research, and encourage scientific research institutes and institutions to enter women's clothing enterprises in various forms, participate in the pformation and technological development of enterprises, and establish technical centers for cooperation.

The key projects of new technology and new product development of women's clothing enterprises are recommended to be included in the national and provincial technological innovation plans and research plans, and funds are arranged for funding.

"Opinions" also put forward to solve the bottleneck restricting the development of industry, to develop women's clothing industry to power.

A special development fund for women's clothing industry is set up. Every year, a special fund of 3 million yuan is allocated by the city's finance to reward famous brands, and select the top ten enterprises, the ten major brands, and the ten designers.

Meng Ping, vice president and Secretary General of Hangzhou women's clothing trade association, told reporters that although the "opinion" has been published for 10 years, the relevant contents are still playing a role. Among them, the special funds allocated annually in the opinion "3 million yuan" have been mentioned for 20 million yuan each year after 3 years.

According to the "11th Five-Year development plan" of Hangzhou silk and women's clothing industry, and the series of important decisions made by the Hangzhou Municipal Committee and the municipal government on the promotion of the silk house and the making of women's clothing, the first plan for the implementation of the "China's outstanding women's clothing designer" was put forward in the whole country. From 2007 to 2017, it planned to train 60 outstanding women's designers in 10 years' time in the international famous fashion design institutes, and train 250 outstanding women designers in the famous fashion design institutes in China. In the short term, they went abroad to train outstanding women's designers and women's clothing enterprises, 200 top managers, 400 local training costumes making technicians, 1000 senior garment manufacturers, and 10 to 20 famous women's designers in 11th Five-Year. According to Meng Ping

At the same time, according to the plan, the government has done more work in the training of design talents. For example, in the long term training abroad, through the China International Women's costume designer Grand Prix, the government selects 6 outstanding designers with bachelor's degree or above, who have corresponding foreign language foundation, have certain work experience, and are willing to study for more than 3 years, and then go to France, Italy, Britain and the United States for 1 to 2 years of professional training.

The 6 designers who go abroad for a long time will receive a full scholarship from the Hangzhou municipal government, with a scholarship amount of 300 thousand yuan to 500 thousand yuan per person.

Wu Haiyan told reporters that in 2006, the Hangzhou municipal government organized experts to set up the "Hangzhou decision advisory committee", which is divided into comprehensive group, economic group, cultural group, social group, political group, city group and so on. She is one of the cultural group members who can provide advice on the development of Hangzhou's women's wear industry.

Wu Haiyan said that what moved her was that all the suggestions and opinions put forward by the Hangzhou municipal government attached great importance to it.

In 2002, she put forward to the municipal government that the silk industry chain of Hangzhou must be combed.

"Every node on the chain should have a brand name, such as raising mulberry, where the best mulberry leaves are in Hangzhou, where the best cocoons are produced in Hangzhou, where is the best place for filature, until the last brand has its own brand.

I also put forward the combination of silk and clothing, called silk and clothing. Then the brand of Hangzhou women's clothing suddenly appeared, because Hangzhou has silk superiority since ancient times, so that Hangzhou clothing has more cultural charm.

After the idea was put forward, the relevant departments of the Hangzhou municipal government immediately began to do the work of combing the silk industry chain.