Clothing Standard Terminology -- Basic Knowledge Of Clothing (1)
First,
Clothing terminology
Most subjects or professions have their own concepts and terminology.
Like cartographic symbols, terminology is also a language, a language frequently used and used in the clothing industry.
Terminology makes industrial production possible.
In the national standard, the basic contents of clothing terms are specified in detail.
This standard is a recommended standard. When applied in practice, no matter its connotation or denotation, it should be in line with fashion and industry habits.
Some interpretations of the terms have a certain place. Fashion design is a creative activity.
In practice, this activity runs through the whole process of enterprise activities, from market research, production conditions, enterprise strategy to artistic conception, structural modeling, and clothing adjustment.
The narrow sense of design refers to the work done by the designer independently, and the generalized design should be the integrated effect of the enterprise activity.
The terms related to costume design in the GB are narrow sense.
Clothing style style: refers to the style of clothing, usually refers to the shape factor, is one of the modeling elements.
Clothing modeling modeling: refers to the overall artistic effect of clothing made up of garment elements.
The modeling elements are divided into three elements, namely, style, color matching and fabric. From the abstract form, they are divided into dots, lines, surfaces, shapes, bodies, colors, quality and light. They are divided into shoes and caps, tops, undergarments, jackets, underwear, ornaments and so on.
Garment outline silhouette: the backlight and silhouette effect of clothing.
It is the first visual element of clothing styling. It is the first factor to be considered when designing fashion styles. Next is the internal parts modeling, such as dividing line, collar type, sleeve type and pocket type.
Contour is an important factor in the development of fashion.
The style design design drawing: refers to the layout plan that reflects the clothing style.
This form of design is the basic skill that garment professionals must master. Because of its simple and easy to grasp, it is the basic way to express the clothing style in the industry.
Effect drawing: a diagram showing the effect of clothing on a specific occasion or place.
Business owners should learn to read the costumes.
The costumes usually include the body attire, the design concept, the fabric and the simple financial analysis.
The garment cutting plan cutting drawing: that is to use the special lines and symbols such as curl, straight, oblique, arc and so on to decompose the garment style design into a plane cutting method.
The popular cutting and mapping methods in China are mainly Chinese proportion cutting method and Japanese prototype cutting method.
Supplementary illustration.
Clothing structure line structure line: refers to the garment pattern, indicating the cutting of garment parts, sewing structure changes of the line.
The drawing lines on the clipping map can be divided into two categories according to their thickness: one is thin line (including drawing auxiliary line, dimensioning line, bisection line, etc.), and the other is rough line (indicating the structural line of tailoring).
According to the national standard, the thickness of the thin line is 0.2--0.3cm, and the thickness of the thick line is 0.6--0.9cm.
Apparel industry terminology
There are two main methods of clothing classification: one is classified according to the designer's system, and the other is classified according to the organization of production organization.
In fact, it is difficult for an enterprise to produce all kinds of garments at the same time.
From the design market positioning, raw material organization, enterprise production technology and management mode, business channel and network, purchase equipment to marketing strategy and financial settlement way are different, so when choosing production product structure, we should give full consideration to each product's production and operation characteristics.
Dress clothing: the general term for decorating the human body.
They include clothing, shoes, hats, socks, gloves, scarves, neckties, bags, Yang hair accessories, etc.
Clothing garments: products worn by the human body for protection and decoration have synonyms of "clothes" and "clothes".
In ancient China, it was called "coat under clothing".
The effect of clothing depends on three factors: wearing objects, clothing modeling and wearing environment.
Fashion fashion: fashionable clothing that is accepted by a large proportion of people in a certain time and area.
If it is still a small number of people first dressed as fashion trendy.
Fashion can be classified into fashion and stereotyped garments according to fashion.
Stereotyped clothing is a fashion style that is relatively fixed after popular screening, such as suits, Nakayama Ki, jackets, cheongsam and so on.
Fashion fashion is highly cyclical, which is divided into the incubation period, budding stage, growing stage, mature stage and declining period.
With the improvement of social culture and consumption level, the popularity cycle will become shorter and shorter.
The price difference of the same fashion in a certain period may be very large, so people say "fashion impermanence", it changes with the times, and is pleasant to the old, but it also reflects the designers and the wearer's cultural and artistic accomplishment and wearing level.
Garment ready-to-wear: according to the national standard size standard, the garments made in industrialized batch production are called garments.
Garment decomposition map resolving drawing: a diagram showing the internal and external structure of a garment.
The decomposition diagram is usually used as a garment for style design.
The rate of ready-made garments is one of the symbols of the industrialized production level and the consumption structure of clothing in a country or region.
Custom made garments
Custom-made clothes: clothing that is tailored to the specific conditions of the wearer, tailored and made individually.
Most clothing and clothing shops are the way of doing business.
The business way of customizing garments is also known as personalized clothing design. It is usually based on the body shape, skin color, occupation, temperament and hobbies of the wearer to choose the fabric color and determine the clothing styling.
Many customers in China customize clothing for money saving or special reasons.
The top class custom-made clothing is rather absent in the current market. The main reason is that the operator is required to know some knowledge about clothing design.
The characteristics of surface accessories are also important basis for enterprises to list products separately, because surface accessories define the supply channels, technological characteristics and market prices of enterprises.
According to the characteristics of surface accessories, it can be divided into the following categories:
Woolen garment woolen garments: garments made of pure wool and wool blended fabrics.
Cotton clothing cotton garments: garments made of cotton and cotton blended fabrics.
Silk clothing silk garments: garments made of natural silk, rayon and synthetic silk fabrics.
Chemical fiber clothing chemical fibre garments: garments made of various chemical fiber fabrics.
Fur/leather garments: clothing made of fur or leather.
Down garment down wear: filled with Down garments.
Artificial fur clothing: garments made of fabrics made of natural or chemical fibers that imitate all kinds of fur.
According to wearing objects, they can be divided into the following categories:
Men's clothing men "s wear: short for men's wear" is the clothing worn by adult men.
Women's clothing women "s wear: short for women's wear" is the clothing worn by adult women.
Children's clothing children "s wear": Children's clothing for short is suitable for children to wear clothes.
They include baby clothing, children's clothing, children's clothing, Chinese children's clothing, children's clothing and so on.
It also includes campus clothing for primary and secondary schools.
Occupation clothing professional garments: professional clothing is a garment worn by members of a society or industry when they work in a social environment to meet the needs of the overall image and meet the requirements of the workers, so as to achieve the goal of the society.
Professional clothing can be divided into three main categories: one is professional logo clothing, such as postal service, railway clothing, customs clothing, civil aviation clothing, military uniform, tax clothing, traffic supervision clothing, business management clothing, school uniform, etc. the second is labor protective clothing, which refers to the clothing that provides convenience and protection for workers in special trades when working.
Such as radiation suits, diving suits, miners' clothes, steel-making clothing, road maintenance work clothes, oil work clothes, firemen's clothes, etc. the third is professional fashion, which refers to the non uniform fashionable dress suits worn by the "pink collar class" of urban professional women. Most of them are bright and elegant in style and are able to fully show the intelligence and ability of professional women.
Terminology for finished products
Western-style clothes Western-style clothes: also known as suits, that is a form of western style jacket.
The number of buttons on the left and right buttons is different. It can be divided into single breasted suit and double breasted suit. According to the number of upper and lower grains, it can be divided into one buckle suit, two buckle suits, three buckles suit and so on.
There are different combinations of grain number and platoon number, such as single row two grain buckle suits, double row three buckled suits, etc. according to the different shapes of the barge heads, they can be divided into flat barbed suit, gun barge suit, blue collar collar suit and so on.
Western-style clothes have become an internationally accepted men's dress.
Vest vest: also known as vest or waistcoat, it is a collars with no collar and short sleeves.
The main function is to keep the front and chest regions warm and easy to move with both hands.
It can be worn inside the outer garment or outside the underwear.
The main varieties include waistcoat, cotton vest, feather vest and wool vest.
Jeans cowboy "s clothes": a jacket made of canvas worn by Americans during the development of Western and golden hot periods.
Later, through film and television publicity and celebrity effects, it developed into a daily life dress.
In 1970s, it was popular all over the world, and now it has become a global stereotyped garment.
Its fabric is made of sturdy fabric and has been developed into cowboy jacket, jeans, denim shirt, cowboy vest, cowboy vest skirt, cowboy dress and so on.
Jeans are loved by people all over the world because of their strong and durable features, such as leisure and rough. Although its overall style is relatively patterned, its detailed modeling and decoration are accompanied by the continuous interpretation and change of the fashion fashion cycle and rhythm.
Chinese tunic Zhongshan coat: also called Zhongshan suit.
Named according to the style Sun Zhongshan wore.
The main features are standing collar and front four clear stickers. The style is simple and practical.
Military uniform
It's like a military uniform.
Youth clothing: also known as the "54" young student's clothing, is the collar, the three open bag or the three pouch style coat.
Jacket jacket: a shirt with short length, loose chest, tight Guchi Katsuo and tight hem style.
The jacket is an English pliteration with short meaning.
Hunting hunting wear: originally used for hunting, it has the structure of anti dew and bullet bag waist collection.
It has developed into a multi coat and back slit style jacket for everyday life.
There are short sleeves and long sleeves, and summer wear and spring and autumn clothes.
Shirt shirt: Men's shirts and blouses are divided according to their wearing objects.
According to the different uses, they can be divided into traditional shirts and casual shirts with a suit. The former is a style between the underwear and the outer garment. The armhole is smaller than that of the outer garment. The latter is worn by itself, the armhole is big, the activity is convenient and the colors are various.
Chinese and Western Jackets: Chinese collar and sleeves, buttons can be buttoned, buttonholes and buttons are developed on the basis of traditional Chinese styles.
If it is even sleeves, it is called the Chinese style jacket.
Cotton padded jacket cotton padded coat: all kinds of jackets including cotton wool, acrylic cotton, space cotton, camel hair and other thermal insulation materials are called cotton padded jacket.
Cotton padded jacket has Chinese cotton padded jacket and western cotton padded jacket.
The traditional way of wearing cotton padded jacket and overalls is gradually disappearing. It is rare for the wearer in the middle age. Instead, it is replaced by a coat jacket with fashionable appearance and leisure comfort. The length of the cotton padded jacket from short to waist length to long to ankle varies from a short time to a long time. It has been marked by a strong brand of the times and adapted to the rhythm of modern life.
Down jacket down coat: jacket filled with feather down.
Because of its strong thermal insulation, mostly for people in cold areas, it is also commonly used by polar survey personnel.
The appearance of the down jacket is large and round, and it is not suitable to show female lines.
The advent of ultra-thin down garments will bring new bright colors to urban women.
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Terminology for finished products
The lower garment refers to the garments worn below the waist level, mainly with various skirts and trousers.
There are two mannequin models, one is the cone model used to design the skirt, and the other is the saddle model for designing trousers. The two is the model of the saddle.
Terminology of finished products for skirts
Vest skirt Jumper skirt: a skirt with upper collar and sleeveless vest.
This kind of modeling is mostly used for middle school clothing.
Skew skirt bias skirt: a skirt that spreads from waist to hem diagonally.
Because of the sufficient relaxation of the buttocks during cutting, the hip skirt is generally not used as the control size, and only waist circumference and skirt length can be cut.
At ordinary times, the four pieces of skirt are close to the shape of the skew skirt, but because the hem is moderate, they still need to measure and control the size of the hip.
Fishtail skirt fish tail skirt: refers to skirt with fishtail like skirt.
Waist, buttocks and thighs in the middle of the body shape, gradually released from the bottom of the tail into a fishtail.
The position of the fish tail and the size of the fish tail begin to be determined according to individual needs.
In order to ensure the uniformity of the "fish belly" and the "fishtail" wave, the fishtail skirt is mostly made of six or more structural forms, such as six fishtail skirts, eight fishtail skirts and twelve fishtail skirts.
Miniskirt miniskirt: also called miniskirt.
This is a short skirt that is in the middle and above the thigh.
It is only a skirt shape defined on the length.
Its shape can be tight type, horn type or pleated skirt type.
Pleated skirt: a skirt that plucks at the waist of a skirt.
According to the design of folds, it can be divided into broken pleated skirts and regular pleated skirts.
The pleat can be big but filial piety can be more or less, but it can be made in pairs or folds.
Skirt: also known as tower skirt.
The skirt is connected by a multi-layered pverse cut, and is shaped like a tower skirt.
According to the level distribution of the tower, it can be divided into regular tower skirt and irregular tower skirt.
In irregular skirt, the width of each tower can be changed according to needs, such as width, width, width, width, width, width, width and width.
The skirt is barrel skirt, tube skirt: also called skirt, straight skirt or straight skirt.
Its modeling feature is from the buttocks of the fit, and the side seam naturally falls into a tube and tube.
Qipao skirt cheongsam skirt, hobble skirt, slim skirt: usually refers to the skirt with left and right side slits.
Because it keeps the style of the cheongsam slender fitting, the skirt length is below the knee, the hem is slightly collected, and the length of the slit meets the basic leg activity.
Western-style dress tailored skirt: also called a suit dress.
It usually wears a suit or shirt.
In the cutting structure, the method of collecting and plucking is often used to make the waist and buttocks fit, and the length changes on the knees.
Terminology for trousers
Trousers trousers: mainly refers to trousers that are matched with suits.
As the trousers are mainly worn in offices and social occasions, they should pay more attention to the coordination with the shape when they are comfortable and natural.
When cutting, the relaxation is moderate and gives a gentle and steady feeling.
Western trousers have basically been internationalized and standardized in production technology and modeling.
The technology of Western shorts and trousers is basically the same, and the length is different from that of the knee. It can be selected according to their own needs.
Chinese trousers: trousers with wide sides, big trouser legs, big crotch, no side seams, and no trousers before and after wearing. It's a traditional Chinese costume.
Bib Pants: trousers with shoulder straps on the waist of trousers.
The trousers in the trousers are only two straps, but in the overalls and modern fashions, there are chest patches.
Riding breeches: the trousers worn on horseback riding.
The overall costume of the equestrian athlete has become a fixed style in the world. Due to the function of riding, its crotch and thigh are very loose, and gradually tighten under the knee and trouser legs to form a special contour.
Knickers knickerbockers, knickers, bloomers, pantalets: trousers with wide trouser tubes, tight trouser legs, and shape like lanterns.
From design, it can be regarded as a "imitation of objects" and "imitation of objects".
Knickers are comfortable and comfortable for leisure.
Chinese style pants and sports pants are also often used in this shape.
Skirt pants: like trousers, the lower crotch, the lower opening of trousers and the appearance of skirt are the combination of trousers and skirts.
It keeps the advantages of trousers, such as easy cycling, and graceful and feminine skirts.
Underwear overalls: a garment that combines the tops and trousers.
Because it is connected to the upper and lower parts, it has strong sealing ability to the human body.
There is also a pair of trousers with hats and shoes and socks, which are more airtight and are suitable for wearable and anti chemical personnel.
Bell bottomed trousers flare trousers, bell-bottom pants: refers to trouser legs into trumpet trousers.
In terms of structure design, on the basis of western trousers, the crotch is slightly shorter, and the relaxation of the buttocks is properly reduced, so that the buttocks and the middle crotch (near the knees) fit well, and the trousers can be enlarged from the knees.
They are divided into bell bottoms, bell bottoms and miniature flares.
The length of bell bottoms is mostly the length of the shoe upper.
Term for whole body finished products
The so-called whole body finished product refers to the upper and lower body as one of the clothing styles.
Dress one-piece dress: a garment that forms a single body between the upper and lower skirts.
The dress is known as "Queen of style" in all kinds of styles. It is a changeable and most popular style.
According to the wearing objects, there are children's dresses and young women's dresses.
Almost all kinds of factors that can be changed in women's tops and skirts can be combined into a dress style.
The dress can also form various contour and waist position according to the need of modeling.
Cheongsam Qipao, Chinese dress: also known as Chinese Qipao.
Its main structural features are standing collar, right big collar, tight waist, bottom slit, etc.
Cheongsam is the traditional robe of Chinese women. It began with the dress of the banners in the Qing Dynasty.
After the revolution of 1911 and the improvement of modern times, the dress technology of the traditional cheongsam was retained to make it more consistent with the performance of the human body.
This ratio is very suitable for the eastern people with a flat chest, low breech position and long body shape.
Cheongsam conveys modern humanism and the unique rhythmic beauty of the East.
The bride's dress bridal gown, Bridal Veil: refers to the dress worn by women when they are married.
Chinese traditional wedding dress is a large Chinese suit.
Most of the bridal gowns worn by the city are from the wedding dress worn by European and American brides.
The western style bridal dress is white with the right color, symbolizing purity and sanctity.
Tuxedo swallow-tailed coat, swallowtail: is a formal dress worn by men on specific occasions.
Its basic structural form is short predecessors, a suit collar shape, a long back body and a two tail slit after the back of the garment piece.
The color is mostly black, which means serious, serious and sacred.
Evening dress evening dress, evening suit: refers to the gorgeous dress worn by women in social occasions at night.
Evening dressing material is superior, with strong color and light sensitivity, strong performance and special effects under lighting.
Western style evening dress takes the Western upper class nightlife as the background, the style mostly uses the chest, the back and the long skirt type.
Coat overcoat: a long coat worn outside the general clothing for the sake of protecting the wind from the cold.
According to the length, they can be divided into short coat, medium long coat and long coat.
According to the different fabrics, the main varieties are woolen overcoats, cotton coats, down coats, fur coats, leather coats, artificial fur coats, etc.
Raincoat weather-all Coat & cloak: dual-purpose coat for windproof and rain proof, with single, clip, long and short points.
Styles change with fashion.
CAPE DRESS smock, manteau, mantle: sleeveless jacket with no sleeves, necking tie, worn on the shoulders.
If there is a cap, it is usually called a cloak.
The cloak is mostly a piece of structure, mostly worn by northerners and children in winter.
Nightgown: a loose and long gown worn in the bedroom.
Fabric uses soft, elegant colors and gentle and delicate patterns of small broken flowers. Fabrics are often made of pure cotton or high-grade silk.
Pajamas Sleepwear: refers to two pajamas including jacket and trousers.
Suit suit: clothing that is fitted up and down.
It is usually made of the same colored fabric, making the upper and lower uniform styles.
This way of dressing is preferred in the workplace.
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