The Famous Road Of Japanese Designer Yamamoto Teruji

"I usually wear two suits for six months.

This is one of them. "

An old naughty boy stepped onto the stage, dressed in a simple black single breasted windbreaker, a dark blue knitted wool pants with a pilling inside his knees, and a pair of strong dark brown outdoor short boots on his feet, and no one laughed. He put his finger on his beak lips and added quickly: "let me explain, underwear I change every day, and I will wear CalvinKlein."

Many people at the scene did not expect that Yamamoto Teruji, the "fashion philosopher", "space deconstruction" and "black magician", who were worshiped by fashion people, would appear in this way.

In the past 30 years, the world's designers have seen "God like" characters in the eyes of Chinese audiences.

The son of war widow

"In this world, to tell the truth, I am very unfortunate.

I am the son of a war widow, and I am very poor from my childhood home, so I still can not integrate into the world well.

Especially when I was young, I always had a rebellion.

If I do not succeed in my career, I think it can only be dispel by crime.

Yamamoto Teruji spoke, stretching out his slender hands from time to time and turning back his long gray hair. His eyes hung low, but his eyes remained steadfast and did not evade every question.

Yamamoto Teruji was born in 1943, 2 years from Japan's defeat.

His father died in the war. He was brought up by a tailor's mother.

"Whenever I think of my father, I still feel the resentment of war."

Yamamoto Teruji believes that childhood experiences make him have an aesthetic preference for "flaws, mistakes, imperfections, and contingency", while the female image of his mother has a subtle influence on him.

"Probably when I was a child, I saw too many women wearing high heels and thick lipsticks. They looked wild and frightening, and very unnatural."

So in Yamamoto's fashion show, his models always wear flat heels.

Especially in his early design, he has always advocated that women should have the power to dress like men, and that women wearing military uniform are the sexiest.

Although Yamamoto Teruji's childhood dream was to be a painter, he was admitted to the prestigious Keio University in Japan to earn a law degree in order to enable his mother to live a secure life.

However, it was influenced by mother and met in 1968.

After another legend Wakubo Rei, Yamamoto Teruji finally chose to travel to France with Wakubo Rei.

Invasion of Paris

In 1981, Yamamoto Teruji and Wakubo Rei, who had no names, held a fashion show in Paris. The show was controversial at that time, and was described by Paris fashion as unheard of "Hiroshima style" and "Big Bang fashion".

The French Le Figaro reported their design series with the Japanese attack as a news headline.

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"50% of the people praised me at that time, and 50% of them destroyed me, especially the media. They gave me very bad comments."

Yamamoto recalls, "one American media even gave me a page of paper, painted a fork with a big brush, and said," goodbye. "

However, my works are favored by fashion buyers, and the customers who have flocked to it have even broken the elevator of our company.

In the 80s of last century, everything was swelling: salaries were rising, consumption was rising, and self consciousness was magnified as far as possible. It was reflected in the clothes that they were huge shoulder pads, dry suit suits, high-heeled shoes and bright colors.

But Japanese designers clearly let the West fool their eyes: they use natural fabrics, the colors are monotonous and dull, and show models wear.

There is almost no makeup on the face, and the design is more irregular. It uses a series of layers of matching methods to deal with light cloth and makes the clothes look natural and smooth.

So at that time, the elegant style of clothing represented by Yamamoto Teruji shocked the whole European fashion world.

But at that time, Anna Venter, who was the fashion editor of New York magazine and later called "the devil of fashion," sniffed the smell of "easterly westward", and soon took the theme of Yamamoto Teruji, Wakubo Rei and other designers as a theme to create a group of "the best designers to integrate Eastern and Western designers", saying that they constructed "fashions" with classic Oriental style of elegance and pure lines.

The times also gave Yamamoto Teruji, Wakubo Rei and Lssey Miyake the highest evaluation: "if there are 10 designers in today's world that can be called great, there must be 3 Japanese."

"Making money is not my success."

"To some extent, I am just like the nude emperor in the emperor's new clothes, but to keep Japanese fashion culture from losing to the world, the ongoing work is my destiny.

I will continue to work hard for the cause of fashion design.

In October 9, 2009, Yamamoto Teruji submitted an application to the Tokyo local magistrate's civil reversion law to reorganize his company.

Yamamoto Teruji had filed for bankruptcy protection in the Tokyo District Court for 6 billion yen in debt.

This legendary designer who has been in fashion for 30 years has encountered the biggest challenge since his financial crisis.

From 1983 to 2007, Yamamoto Teruji founded and ran 9 brands.

"I completely leave the business to other people to take care of, but the expansion of investment is too strong, coupled with its brand, which leads to the failure of my business."

In October 2009, Yamamoto Teruji admitted his failure in the bankruptcy statement, but at the same time said, "I insist on adhering to the concept of" made in Japan "because I see the global market, and Japanese fashion culture is not backward in the world.

After 3 years of hard work, Yamamoto Teruji finally got rid of the financial management that he was not good at, and found a new manager for his company. A Japanese private company named Integral offered to inject capital into its operation management.

And he continued to be the creative director of the company's brand, and continued to join his favorite Paris.

There will be no distraction in the future.

Yamamoto Teruji regrets, "someone said to me," you haven't made much money, so you can't see how successful it is.

But I don't think making money is the success I want.

The fashion industry is the last industry on earth that we can do with our hands. We can not give it to the computer.

Human hands are culture, and our fingers are culture.

A lot of people think that I am a mystery, I don't like to talk, but I will do it as hard as I can. I firmly believe this. "