Chinese National Costume Culture -- The Dress Culture Of Brown Nationality

Hani Nationality

It has a long history, colorful and beautiful.

As early as in the Qing Dynasty Yong Zheng, "the book of ancient and modern books integration" 1517th volumes, "Yunnan headquarters mud nest examination" has such a record: "Men Ring ears, feet, women's clothes and blouse, with red and white cotton rope, braided hair locks, sea shells mixed beads, hovering into a spiral bun, wearing green yellow beads, hanging chest as collateral."

Since ancient times, Hani costumes are mainly made of self-made black or blue dyed fabrics, and are made up of many complicated processes such as cotton spinning, weaving, drawing, weaving, dyeing, tailoring and embroidery.

The origin of Hani dress

Hani costumes are accompanied by the social history of their existence and development.

In Hani nationality, "Hani AI Pu Cong Po Po" and "national history of Yunnan", it is recorded that the ancestors of the Hani nationality originally lived in the three seas of the South Yalong River in the Dadu River, lived the primitive life of the ethnic group, and covered the sensitive parts of the body with leaves and animal skins.

Later, the Hani ancestors led the tribe down south and migrated from the Yalong river swamp area through Luquan, Wuding, Anning and Jinning, together with the races in Kunming for a long time.

During the Ming Yongli imperial edict, some of the Hani minority chieftains followed suit of the shirts, trousers, gowns (silver bell, silver bubble, silver flower, silver coin, silver chain and other silver ornaments) worn by the officers' families. They also absorbed some short clothes, narrow sleeves, half arms without collar straight buttons, and four fold suits for the mountain work.

Young women wear low necked lace, semi sleeved embroidered narrow sleeves robes, peyun shoulders, and rimmed trousers.

In the past two thousand years, Hani has experienced the matriarchal clan, the slave system and feudal lords in Dianchi.

Hani's costume also went through many vicissitudes, and was regarded as a replacement in the cultural revolution.

Nowadays, with the gradual implementation of the party's national policies, Hani costumes are also accompanied by the development of the national economy. Not only are they diversified in styles, but they are also very particular about materials and materials, and tend towards "aristocratic" development.

Today, Hani dress is gradually becoming a brilliant treasure of the fifty-six nations.

The Hani nationality is an ancient ethnic group who believes in the spirit of all things. It is also an international group living in over 190 countries.

The patterns or headwear in Hani costumes are symbolic, normative, expressive and informative.

The Hani nationality is a dark country, especially Hani dress. Since ancient times, the main colors are black and blue, because in the Hani society, black has the power of exorcism.

"Hani ApaI Cong Po Po" records: during the long migration process, the Hani people lived in the "color corner" (now Erhai, Dali) area, dressed in white clothes, and later the alien invasion, and the Hani people were forced to run away from the south. After several bloody battles, the Hani people had to discard the conspicuous white costumes, and the Hani people found that the black and blue were the most secure.

(Note: "black" is Hani's memory of the ancestors' defeat in the history of escaping from the South).

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Two, the ancient Hani textile process

Since ancient times, the Hani nationality is an industrious and brave nation. The clothes they wear are all made by themselves. The production process involves more than 10 kinds of complex processes, such as cotton planting, cotton spinning, weaving, weaving, dyeing and tailoring.

Cotton: cotton is cotton.

The pop-up cotton is used for spinning, weaving and making clothes.

The Hani nationality's cotton flashing tool is very simple, chopping an old bamboo, cutting it off, turning it into a bow, putting up a rope made of cow's rubber band, and cutting it off the shoulder with a red sandalwood stick.

With a stick to knock the rubber band, make it vibrate, touch cotton on the cotton and wrap it up.

Spinning: as long as the thread is spun, the cotton strip is first twisted out by hand, and then twisted around a small piece of thread, then it is wound around the hook. With the left hand holding the sliver, hanging the wire ingot, the right hand skirt is lifted, exposing the thigh, twisting the line spindle onto the thigh, turning the horn wheel, tightening the thread, loosening the left hand side, and twisting on the right hand side, and spinning a one metre long spun yarn.

Weaving: the Hani nationality's weaving is very special. Four bamboo or wood are planted together to block two square lumps, hang up the buckles, and under the buttons of the knitted buttons two trampled files, so that they can be woven.

Dyed cloth: Hani people get the blue leaves from the mountains or the small indigo grown by themselves, and soak in lime water to get blue.

The Hani people used the most green color. Therefore, since ancient times, there was blue lake in front of the house.

Three, the connotation of Hani's clothing

Hani dress is Hani tradition.

The essence of this is not only a simple shelter from cold and wind, but also carries a wealth of cultural information, forming a materialized carrier for displaying and remembering the heroic achievements of ancestors migrating.

The color, style and pattern of Hani's clothing are not only the refraction of the geographical environment of the Hani's living area, but also the sign of the social identity, role and age of the clansmen.

There are more than 20 branches of the Hani nationality in the world, and its Hani dress culture is colorful and exquisite. The hardworking and wisdom of the Hani women are embodied. The cultural information contained in each pattern symbol is a profound and difficult to decipher code. 190

Hani clothing is mainly made of black and black self dyed fabrics, because the Hani people are black and black as beautiful, solemn and holy. They regard black and black as auspicious colors, life colors and protective colors. Therefore, black and blue are the main colors of Hani dress.

In particular, the Hani people advocate black, and think that black is free from disaster and is the protective color of Hani's life and nation.

The Hani dress adornment and embroidery patterns, men's clothing with animal patterns, women's clothing embroidered with various colorful patterns and silver ornaments, are virtually the refraction of their own national survival area geographical environment, but also the memory of the heroic achievements of the ancestors and account.

The clothing of Hani ethnic groups has their own characteristics. For example, the Hani women's clothing (women) in Lvchun county can be divided into three parts from head to toe: "Baotou", "clothes (two or three pieces)" and "trousers" (including a black belt).

The women of HA's head are wrapped in black cloth heads and embroidered with a square ribbon pattern after bandaging. One end of Baotou is decorated with red colored spikes on one end and one end of the pattern.

The dress of the Hani ethnic group is worn on the dress of the left big blue blue coat with long knees and skirts.

The belt is a blue cloth embroidered with moon flowers and a dog's tooth flower, or a silver belt.

From the chest to the abdomen, there are ten or even hundreds of silver bubbles on the front side, embroidered with flowers and grass around the corners, under narrow blue blue trousers, and leggings wrapped around the legs.

Hani men's clothing, costumes and headwear are relatively simple, simple and generous, and the styles are generally the same. Most of the headdresses of adult men are black Baotou.

Until 50s of this century, Hani clothing, whether men, women, old and young, were all blue and black. For a region or a branch, the tone was not only single, but also a single style.

Four. The development of Hani dress in Lvchun

In the long history, the hardworking and intelligent people of Lvchun Hani have preserved their deep and strong national costume culture in traditional way of textile, especially the colors and patterns of Hani women's clothing. They have pmitted the strong terraced field culture characteristics and the thick Hani Traditional Culture, and contain ancient and mysterious stories.

Turning to the historical chapter of Lvchun, we can understand that at the beginning of liberation, all the major branches of the Hani nationality living in Lvchun are fully preserving the unique folk customs and national costumes. At that time, the industrious and brave people of Hani were planting cotton, spinning, weaving, dyeing, embroidery, tailoring, village villages, men, women, old people and young people wearing their own black cloths in plain clothes. Later, (eight, 90s), many young people in the countryside appeared the phenomenon of not wearing Hani costumes, and even embarrassed to wear Hani dress, saying that Hani's dress was too traditional and too old-fashioned. What was the reason?

After the reform and opening up, due to the influence of foreign culture and the "overflow" of the clothing market,

A large number of medium and long fiber fabrics have entered Hani settlements. The Hani people's old customs of wearing black trousers and black skirts have been broken. Hani clothes are already colorful. Moreover, new fashions such as dresses, miniskirts, Chinese tunic suits and Western-style clothes have been accepted by the Hani people in the middle and the Qing Dynasty.

In the "Hani mountain township" in Lvchun, almost all the Hani young men and women have been dressed in Han nationality, and Hani speaking youngsters and children have been gradually reduced.

However, in a few years, this bad atmosphere has gradually been eliminated. Although Hani men's clothes in Lvchun have been basically sinicization and usually have many Han wear, Hani costumes are still the costumes of the festival.

What is so great is that Hani people can show the course of their life from the changes of dress: girls, young women, old wives...

Even the situation of marriage and funeral is clear at a glance.

Lvchun has a population of 210 thousand, and the Hani people, like an ancient big banyan tree, are luxuriant and luxuriant since ancient times. Their seven major branches, such as ha, La Mi, Bai Hong and Guo Jiao, all live in Lvchun. Their population accounts for 88.2% of the total population of the county, and is the highest proportion of Hani population in the country.

The Hani people living in Lvchun county's Hani ethnic groups are colorful and colorful. There are more than 30 styles of clothing of the Hani ethnic group in the vicinity of Lvchun county.

But they all have common embroidery patterns, decorative objects and aesthetic coloring, and also have the flavor of modern civilization, and they can adapt to terraced fields farming.

After entering the twenty-first Century, Lvchun actively developed beautiful designs, colorful styles and colorful Hani costumes, and raised the craze for wearing Hani costumes in the whole county. It originated in November 22, 2004, holding the first Chinese The Strip Hani October banquet in The Strip, with 2041 banquets and 2147 meters long banquet. During the same period, a grand cultural evening party and a Hani dress show were held ceremoniously. Therefore, in the same year, it won the "Shanghai world's most Ginis certificate".

This is a great miracle created in the history of Hani people. This is a great event for every Hani people to be proud of.

During the period of "fifteen", the Lvchun county Party committee and the government, based on the county's situation, and with the help of abundant forest resources and ethnic cultural resources, put forward the strategic goal of building "Hani's cultural ecological county". In order to achieve this goal, vigorously carry forward the national culture, fully display the national demeanor, and excavate, sort out and develop some primitive national cultures. From 2004 to 2008, the five "China Lvchun Lvchun October October The Strip banquet" held successfully for five years, tourists from all over the world and the people of Hani and Hani wore colorful costumes. Hani's dress became a beautiful scenery of Lvchun and became a life of Lvchun's Hani people.

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At present, Lvchun is developing the upsurge of Hani costumes and Hani costumes, and Lvchun has truly become the stage of Hani costumes.

Nowadays, when walking into Lvchun, whether walking in the streets or walking in Dazhai small village, no matter whether they enter the hotel or hotel, or enter the hotel villa, they see people wearing colorful multicolored Hani clothes, which makes people feel rich national culture.

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Five, the current situation and Countermeasures of developing Hani clothing industry in Lvchun

From 2004 to 2008, the The Strip banquet held by Hani in October for five consecutive years in Lvchun county not only promoted the protection and development of the deep folk song and dance culture and the unique flavor of Hani's catering culture, but also promoted the inheritance, development and development of the excellent Xiu dress culture mainly based on the Hani family's ha Europe Branch.

Hani cultural resources are important cultural resources of Lvchun county. Hani dress culture is one of the most representative ethnic cultures in Lvchun county. "Hongzhou River cultural undertakings and cultural industry" 11th Five-Year "development plan" clearly put forward that "Lvchun should focus on developing Hani Traditional Culture, national costumes, silver ornaments, Hani Festival Entertainment activities, and vigorously develop folklore eco-tourism. This is the requirement of higher authorities for our county, and it is also the goal of our county's efforts.

Lvchun Hani October annual The Strip banquet is the stage of the Hani costumes exhibition in Lvchun. Hani costumes are also the precious ornaments of The Strip's ancient banquet.

What is the prospect of Hani's clothing market? This is a question worth studying and discussing in our county.

In 2006, the Ma Long Hani clothing store organized by the Po tou Ma Long Hani dress shop. In the same year, Hani carefully organized the first Hani costumes fair in the same year in October. Only 5 members in the fair were over 5000 yuan.

In 2007, the county Party committee and the government led the 33 Hani women who were engaged in the production of Hani clothing in the county town, and established the Lvchun Hani clothing association. After that, the association adopted the way of "going out to learn experience and introducing teaching technology", constantly expanding the scale of production and constantly improving the quality of products.

During the "three quarter" activities last year, some members of the association held a large Hani clothing series exhibition in the garden of the street. The products exhibited were favored by friends in and out of the county. At the same time, the brand new fashions of Hani ha had been gradually exported to the field through the multi angle and all-round publicity and meticulous brand building. At present, the income of employees has been gradually increased. (now, Lvchun Hani ha new dress has become the collector of Hani culture experts and scholars at home and abroad. Moreover, it has become the most beautiful set of ceremonial clothes of the state government's reception desk). According to the survey, in 2008, the members of the 33 Hani clothing association earned the highest income of 100 thousand yuan, and the lowest was 8000 yuan.

Practice has proved that Lvchun Hani clothing series products market is very broad, Hani clothing industry will certainly enable the masses to increase their income.

The cultural connotation of Lvchun Hani costumes, its complicated embroidery procedures and colorful series of products have been praised by experts and scholars both at home and abroad.

In particular, in 2008, with the support of the county supply and Marketing Association and the Huanglian mountain administration, the Po tou Ma Long comprehensive service group meticulously organized 15 Hani elderly people. The 2 Hani Traditional textile processes successfully performed, including 13 processes, including spinning, boiling, washing, drawing, adjusting, winding, weaving, dyeing, cooling cloth, tailoring, embroidery, and finished products exhibition, laid a solid foundation for the protection and inheritance of Hani dress culture in Lvchun.

I think Hani dress.

It is an important breakthrough for the development of cultural industry in Lvchun county.

In order to effectively protect and inherit the precious cultural treasure of Hani dress and make the clothing culture industry truly become a cultural industry that helps increase the income of agriculture and promote tourism development in Lvchun, the following suggestions are put forward according to Lvchun's reality.

First, the county Party committee and the government should pay full attention to the development of Hani dress culture industry, increase investment in the research of clothing culture, and strengthen the training of talents with good foundation, culture and talent.

Two, the Tourism Bureau, the Sports Bureau, the cultural production office, the ecological office and other functional departments should strengthen the research, excavation and collation of Hani's history and the cultural connotation of Hani's clothing, and directly guide the Hani clothing association to develop colorful Hani dress series products that can sell the domestic and foreign markets.

Three, increase investment, correctly guide the members of Hani Fashion Association to display products in other fields, and actively explore the market of Hani clothing series products, and take this as a carrier to introduce some good businessmen and large enterprises to Lvchun, and promote the great development of Lvchun's cultural industry.

Four, we should encourage, help and support the folk construction of Hani's clothing heritage hall, actively train 5 to 8 inheritors of traditional textile processes that can perform Hani's tradition and produce traditional Hani costumes and new Hani costumes, and build Hani's clothing heritage hall into a "living museum", and make it the best "base" for studying the world's Hani costume culture.