Chinese National Costume Culture -- Hezhen Nationality'S Clothing Culture

1. General situation of Nationalities

Hezhe is a nation with a long history in Northeast China. In the past, it believed in Shamanism.

His ancestors were "black water fans in the Sui and Tang Dynasties". The origin of the clan can be traced back to the pre Qin period.

The name of the Hezhe nationality is derived from the "Hertz" which the Hezhe people call themselves, meaning "downstream" and "East", that is, people living in the "lower reaches" and "the Orient".

There are "black Jin", "Hejin", "black philosophy" and other appellations.

In history, there were different names such as "black Jin", "black truth", "Hezhen", "Qi Leng" and "Hezhe".

Hezhe called himself Nai, nbei and nnao, meaning "locals" and "locals".

After the founding of new China, the unified name is the Hezhen nationality, meaning people living in the East and downstream of the river.

They are mainly distributed in two counties of Rao and Fuyuan in Heilongjiang Province, and they live in 3 ethnic townships, such as the streets of Tianjin, four rows and eight branches, with a population of more than 4000.

Hezhe language belongs to the Altai language family. The Manchu tongus language family has many words and Manchu words.

Nowadays, the Hezhe people under more than 40 years old can not speak the native language or the common Chinese language.

The Hezhen nationality has no written language and is commonly used in Chinese.

Now the Hezhe people living along the river are still mainly fishery. Men, women, old and young are all good fishermen. The core of the fishery economy is the unique and rich ethnic culture of the Hezhe nationality.

Two. Characteristic culture

Hezhe has his own unique customs. Before he drinks the first wine, he must dip his chopsticks into the air and sprinkle the earth to show his ancestors and gods.

Hezhe does not like to drink tea, sometimes they stir fry the millet and make the water to drink, or the wild roses and young leaves and the flowers of small oak trees are used to dry and make tea for drinking, but most of the four seasons are fond of drinking cold water.

The "URI Gong" festival, which was born in 1985, is an entertainment or stylistic convention. It is held every two years. The time is usually in the May and June of the lunar calendar, and it takes 3 days to take turns.

The day of the festival is mainly athletic competition.

There are swimming, boating, net casting, tug of war, fork grass ball, shooting grass target, archery and so on.

Among them, the fork grass ball has the most national characteristics. This is the drill and reappearance of fork fish technology on land.

The grass ball is tied up with wet grass, the size of which is football.

At night, a campfire ignited and a mass dinner and song and dance party were held at the riverside.

People dance the swan dance, Shaman Dance, Osprey dance, divine dance, passionate dance, accompanied by melodious singing. The Hezhe village is full of joyous atmosphere.

The Hezhen people love music, are good at singing, and spread many folk songs, mainly including "marriage Widening" and "Henni".

"Marriage Widening" is a simple, soft and melodious lyric song that spreads widely. It is used to praise the beautiful nature and express the infinite love for the mountains, scenery, fertile land and wilderness of the hometown.

"Heni" is a folk tune. It is a clear and lively tune that women hum in labor. It is graceful and melodious, melodious and loud, and melodious.

"Kong Kang Ji" (chord harp) is an instrument handed down by the Hezhen nationality, but there are not many people who can perform it skillfully nowadays.

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Three. Clothing gathering

Hezhe is called "fish skin" because of the custom of making fish skin clothes.

Hezhen women choose three or four feet of fish, salmon, sturgeon, mare and so on. Try to completely peel the fish skin, dry them and remove them. They beat them like cotton sticks, and then dye them.

Hezhe fish skin clothing mainly has long gown, short coat, trousers, waist and so on, all by several fish skin suture.

The style of long gown is similar to cheongsam. There are two kinds of short sleeves: the pair of buttons and the big ones. The patterns of dyed deer skin and moire on the collar and cuffs are decorated with fish bones, seashells and copper coins, and the style is extensive. This shows that the Hezhe people have strong will and high intelligence to make use of nature, pform nature and adapt to the environment, and create life.

The fish skin trousers are divided into two men and women. The upper ends of men's trousers are slanting, and the trousers are lined with lace.

In addition to fish skin clothing, Hezhe also wears roe fur coat, deer skin clothing and cloth, silk clothing and other clothes. Shoes are made from fish skin and roe deer and deer leg skin, and the waffle grass.

Women like to wear earrings, bracelets and other jewelry.

The Hezi nationality's decorative patterns are very rich. Their clothes and caps are embroidered with all kinds of moire patterns and all kinds of flowers, and their compositions are magnificent and beautiful.

Their paintings and sculptures are also exquisite.

Most of the paintings are based on plants, animals and Buddha statues.

Furniture, utensils, especially birch boxes, are carved with fine moire and flowers.

Birds, animals, landscapes, and so on.

Fish skin clothing is an important symbol of Hezhen nationality.

Clothes, trousers, belts, legs, aprons, gloves, pockets and so on are made of fat, salmon, carp and carp.

Hezhen men and women like to wear long gowns, jacket or short gown.

Men's trousers are usually made of Huai tou or Joro and pike skin.

Women's trousers are mostly trimmed and embroidered with various lace.

Both men and women wear fish skin for hunting or fishing.

To make fish skin clothes, peel and dry the fish skin first, then beat and rub them repeatedly with specially made leather tools until they are soft, and then coloured with colorful wild flowers.

The skin of the Hezhen nationality is not only made of fish skin, but also the thread of sewing clothes.

Fish skin clothing has the characteristics of cold resistance, moisture resistance, abrasion resistance, waterproof and beautiful.

Fish skin robe: the skin of the Hezhen nationality is made of fish, leather, grass, fish, sturgeon, big horse and carp.

The style is like cheongsam, with short sleeves, narrow waist, long knees, and large body.

The edge, clothing edge, cuffs, front and back buttons are embroidered with Moire or colored deer skin to cut into moire or animal patterns. The style is simple, thick and rough.

In the early years, they often sewed ornaments such as seashells, bronze bells and embroidered ears.

Hezhen's fish skin robe and other fish skin clothing, not only the fabric is fish skin, the thread of sewing is also the skin of the fish.

The fish skin line is to scrape off the scales of the skinheads (thin skinned), and smear the oily fish liver so as to keep them soft and dry, and then fold them up and flatten them into thin threads.

Fish skin robes and other fish skin clothing are lightweight, warm, wearable, waterproof, moisture resistant and easy to stain.

Especially in cold winter, it does not harden and will not be covered with ice.

The naini, urje, jyyak and coastal residents of northern Europe and Ainu people in Japan have also had a history of wearing fish skin clothing, but the skin culture of the Hezhe nationality is relatively rich and typical.

This fully reflects the wisdom and wisdom of the Hezhen people in adapting to nature, utilizing nature and pforming nature at that time's social environment and productivity level.

In recent decades, with the development of Hezhe's economic culture, modern textile, chemical fiber and other modern

Fish skin trousers are made of Huai tou, Zhi Luo or dog skin, which are divided into two kinds.

The upper end of the male is a slanting mouth, and the upper end of the female type is a neat mouth with a lace embroidered or embroidered.

Winter wear it hunting cold and wear-resistant, spring and autumn wear its Fishing Waterproof kneecap.

Birch hat

The Hezi cap of Hezhen nationality is a summer hat worn like a common bamboo hat, and its top eaves are large enough to shelter from rain and shading.

On the brim of the hat, there are all kinds of cloud curls, wavy stripes and roe deer, fish and fish, which are light and beautiful.

Girls often give meticulously made birch hat to their sweetheart as a token of love.

glove

Hezhe wore gloves for the purpose of preventing cold.

Gloves are essential for their winter.

Hezhe's gloves are mostly made of roe skin, mainly including "Sarah Jerzy Cai" (five fingers gloves) and "tile Kai Kai" (the leather hand is stuffy, only the thumb is separated from the remaining four fingers) and "Kao Hu Lu" (the leather hand is stuffy, the barrel is long and has the mouth to live) three kinds.

The three kinds of gloves have their own characteristics. "Tile pull away" is easy to carry things but not to shoot.

"Salaye Kai Yi" is exquisite and beautiful. There are many chinchilla skin edges and cloud shaped lace on the back of the mouth. There are many patterns on the back of the hand, and it is easy to take things and fire, but the thermal insulation is poor.

People like to wear Kao Hu Lu when they go hunting in winter. After wearing it, they can put their sleeves on the cuffs and fasten them tightly with leather cords. Hands can freely enter the fingernails from the opening of the wrist on the palm of hand, and put them in when they are cold, so that they can be stretched out at any time when needed.

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Fish skin shoes

Fish skin shoes are mainly made of fish, such as Huai tou, zhe Yu, zhe Yu, pike, salmon and catfish, etc.

This technology has long been lost, usually using animal tendons or mane instead of fish skin line.

The modeling of fish skin shoes is relatively simple. The simplest thing is to use a fish skin with a length of 25 and 21 centimeters wide, and cut a semicircle in the middle of one end as a shoe.

The complicated ones include shoes, like short boots.

Manufacturing process

The process of making fish skin clothing is to peel the dried fish skin, such as stink, strip, grass root, damask and Huai head, which are suitable for making clothes and shoes, and to dry them with the mallet (empty warehouse) and the hammer bed (sea ridge) of cooked fish skin.

Sewing fish skin and clothing should be made of fish skin line, which is made from the skin of fat fish.

The process of making animal skins is: making the skins before maturing.

There are two ways to make animal skins, one is the maturing of light plate leather, the other is the cooked leather with fur.

The light plate leather is cooked by using a cylinder or cask to soak up (six or seven days in winter, three or four days in summer). When it is lost to wool, it will be scraped with wood scrapers, dried and dried with wood scrapers, then cut into soft wood with a wooden chopper, and then put into a cylinder, with roe deer brain blister and then dried with a wring rod.

When the clothes were made, they were then chopped with wood choppers, and hammered on the hammer bed with wooden mallets.

The best way to make a fur coat is to mix the water with the sawdust, put a layer on the skin, roll it up for half a day or a night, and then open the skin and scrape the fat.

In order to make the leather more soft, use the fermented rice flour after a short night, then rub it with your hands, and use the big tooth comb to cut the clothes again.

The lines used for making animal skin trousers are made of full and deer tendons.

Buttons for clothes are made of bone, wood or pimp.