World Dress Culture -- Korean Hanfu Culture
After the establishment of the Korean empire in 1897, it began to be called the name of the country.
Hanfu
。
Modern Hanfu refers specifically to Li's stereotyped national costumes, and in twentieth Century it made some major changes because of practical reasons. It did not follow the real version of Li's Korean dress.
Recently, the improved Korean clothing and life Hanfu appeared in Korea.
Hanfu is characterized by simple design, bright coloured and no pockets.
In Korea, it usually thinks that Hanfu has three beauty, namely the sleeve curve, the white half skirt and the skirt shape.
The modern women's Hanfu dress is commonly called "Chi Gu Li skirt", including cheigu Li and high waist vest skirt.
Male Korean clothing is commonly called "Chegu", including Chegu and trousers.
The women's Han clothes, which were formally ordered by the common people, were still worn outside the Chai Kiri skirts.
Traditional senior Korean clothing is usually made of Ming (Ming Dynasty made spun silk).
People's Hanfu is usually made of hemp, ramie or cotton.
In the Korea era, the white ramie of North Korea often paid tribute to the Tang Dynasty.
Due to the inconvenience of wearing Hanfu, in addition to formal occasions and some ancient villages, few Korean people wear Hanfu in daily life.
In recent years, some people have made improved Korean clothing (also known as life Korean clothes) for daily life wear.
Origin of Hanfu name
There is no fixed name for the traditional costume of Korea people.
After World War II, the Korean Peninsula was divided into two countries, namely Korea and South Korea.
Hanfu is a traditional costume that has been influenced by Han costume and Mongolia costumes from ancient times to modern times.
Hanfu's line has both the beauty of curves and straight lines, especially the short jacket and long skirt worn by women's Hanfu and elegant and elegant.
Historical development of Hanfu
Before the influence of Chinese Han culture, the Korean nation was once a farming nation scattered in the Altai mountains, advocating the wide and narrow Pyramid style costumes. The basic style of Hanfu was evolved in the Three Kingdoms era.
The trousers were very short and tight, and the waist of the jacket was very close.
The costumes of the Korean people have undergone three changes. The first white dress of the Korean ancestors made the first change under the influence of the Tang Dynasty. The second was the Korea era, and the third was influenced by the Ming Dynasty.
Three Kingdoms era
China's Datang court sent silk robes to Korea (formerly known as Xinluo).
The aristocratic women began wearing full skirts and wide sleeves.
Men wear narrow tops, knee length tops and trousers, and tie their trouser legs to ankles.
Korea Era
Korea has become the vassal state of the Yuan Dynasty for 80 years.
Then the king of valiant married Gen Gi Khan's daughter and changed his clothes to Mongolia.
In the 3 years he ruled, all officials had to shave their hair and wear Mongolia.
Clothes & Accessories
。
Li Dynasty
South Korea became a subsidiary country of Ming Dynasty. It carried out all directional Sinicization. Women's clothing was affected by the dress of the Ming Dynasty. The early clothes were on the right side, younger and shorter, then moved to the middle position and thickened and lengthened, and the upper and lower trunnions shortened.
Since then, Hanfu, especially women's wear and jacket, has gradually shortened, and the difference between Chinese clothing and Chinese clothing has gradually increased.
During the Korean era, Korean men's clothes were basically integrated into their national aesthetic and characteristics on the basis of copying the clothes of the Ming Dynasty in China.
At the end of Li's Korean Empire, the women's coat of the civilian (Bai Ding) was even breast-breast-breast-feeding. It might be for breastfeeding. The Japanese occupation was banned by the Japanese rulers on the grounds of "being impolite".
Later, after North Korea and South Korea separated independently, each of them developed different routes again. The North Koreans were mainly refined and simple, while South Korea pursued straight lines and added skirts to the skirt to create a similar skirt.
In modern Hanfu, except for the Western vest and the Manchu's mandarin jacket, other styles are learned from Hanfu.
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Hanfu's official uniform
The North Korean official uniform is more exquisite and valuable than the clothes of ordinary people.
Some styles and colors can only be worn by ancient Korean royal families.
The official uniform is also differentiated according to the official position of the Korean court.
During the Korean Dynasty (1392-1910), the official uniform of the DPRK was the golden robe of the red bottom, and the queen of Korea was decorated with Phoenix.
Princess, Weng master and concubines are decorated with flower patterns.
Senior court officials adorned with convective clouds and cranes.
[cloak (/Hwal-ot)]
The wide garment was originated from the Han Dynasty (/jangbaeja), which was worn by the Han nationality in the Ming Dynasty. The wide coat was the dress of the Korean Princess and the Weng master in the Korea Dynasty and the Korean Dynasty.
The ten noble plants and animals embroidered with red lines are represented by longevity, fortune and wealth in Korean culture.
At the same time, it is also a wedding dress worn by royal women and noble women.
Kuo was originally a dress for upper class women in the Korean era, and civilians were also allowed to wear it later.
The dress is made of red satin, satin, satin and so on.
Because the clothing is quite expensive, the ordinary people take the green round shirt as the bride's wedding dress.
[round shirt (? /Wonsam)]
The round shirt also comes from the long clothing [3] of Hanfu.
In the Korean era (1392-1910), the Royal costumes of royal women, aristocratic women and noble ladies were made of silk (silk), and a large sleeved garment decorated with gold foil decorated with representative class in front of their shoulders, chest and back.
Wearing a yellow round shirt outside the choral skirt (/hwang? Wonsam): after the North Korean renamed the Korean empire in October 1897, the robe worn by the "Queen" of the DPRK overran to yellow.
Red round shirt? (/hong wonsam): when China is a dependent country, the queen wears a round shirt.
The green sweater (/nok wonsam): the dice worn by the Korean princesses and princesses is green.
It is decorated with Shou Fu two characters.
The complement of the princess's green round shirt is brown, with double phoenix on the chest.
The green round shirt is also a little dress worn by the queen and Princess and Weng master on a smaller scale. It is also the main dress of the high court ladies and ladies in the palace.
At the end of the Korean era, civilians were also allowed to dress at weddings, but their styles were relatively simple.
Folk cuffs mostly use colored Satin instead of gilding pattern, which distinguishes them from court dresses.
Kaesong (/kaesong? Wonsam): the Korean shirt worn by the nobles in the Kaesong area.
[Tang Yi (/Tangui)]
Tang Yi is derived from the short [4] of Hanfu.
Tang Yi is the second courtesy dress of the princely noble women, who is usually hung down in the past.
Royal Women's Tang wears are gold edged, while others are not.
[Mian Fu (? /Myonbok), Zhai Yi (? /Cheokui)]
The Korean crown dress is made up of Coronet (/Myonryugwan?) and /gonbok. It is a ceremonial dress worn by Chinese emperors to the Korean kings in the Korea era and the Korean era, as well as the ceremonial dress worn by the emperors, the winter solstice, the North Korean meeting, the register and the Nash.
In the nine chapter, Mian Fu was first given to Zhu Yuanzhang by the emperor of the Ming Dynasty to the North Korean king Li Chenggui. At the same time, it was also given to the princess Cui Cui seven Zhai crown and the Xia Yi gold pendant.
Later, the nine chapter of the king of Korea, the imperial dress system, increased the jade, the crown, the painted clothes and so on, as well as the painted Chang, the big belt, the white drawing middle single, the jade jade, the red ribbon, the white Luo Fang Fang's collar, the painted knee, the socks and the pick and so on.
Because the king of Korea is just a royal rank, the crown of the DPRK is only nine. It is absolutely impossible to surmount the twelve of the Chinese emperor.
The red coat of the Ming Dynasty was originally awarded by the Ming emperor Ming Huizong and Zhu Yunwen to the king of Korea. It was the [5] of the Royal Prince's dress.
As the rank of Queen of China, the princess of Korea can not override.
However, after the defeat of the Sino Japanese War of 1894 and the independence of the DPRK, the DPRK began to call the queen and wear the azure coat.
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Hanfu's wedding dress
Korean Korean wedding dress is bright and colorful.
In the past, Korean civilians only wore colored Hanfu when they had special festivals and ceremonies. They usually wore white clothes.
In the past only when they were married, civilians allowed to wear official uniform, and wore more ceremonial headwear.
Traditionally, the bride and groom dress in national costume after a couple of days' wedding ceremony.
On the wedding of the rich, the women's wedding dress is usually lined with blue, and the pattern on the clothes represents the source of the two surnames.
Or there are five kinds of green round shirts with sleeves, while the red silk silk embroidery belt tied behind the tie is fastened from under the armpit, and the small cap from Mongolia is also worn.
The Korean aristocratic women used to wear the green Tang coat with red lining or the purple Tang coat with pink lining as the wedding dress, and then put on the corolla.
Later, there was a white coat.
The groom wears a cap and crown Band.
The civilian bridegroom is usually dressed in the imperial uniform of the Korean Dynasty, wearing a black gauze cap.
The rank officials are wearing their own official uniform.
The regiment collar is the official uniform worn by the officials of the Palace during the execution of government affairs in peacetime.
The color of the official uniform, the color and pattern of the square and the square behind the chest symbolize the social status of the wearer.
For the first time, the regiment leader was in Xinluo for 2 years (648 ad 648).
With the introduction of the Chinese style official uniform system, it continued to the Korean Dynasty.
In addition, there are people who are married in Chi Gu Li Ba Ji.
But most modern Korean weddings are mostly imitation of the West.
Hanfu customs
Korean clothing can also cover up the physical defects, so that the shorter body looks taller, thinner people look more plump, add to the beauty of women.
Nowadays, most of the people are accustomed to wearing Western-style clothes, but many people like to wear traditional national costumes during festivals such as Spring Festival (the 1th day of the first month of the Chinese lunar calendar), autumn Eve and Mid Autumn Festival.
The women's Hanfu is a short jacket with an elegant long skirt, while the male is a Liriodendron or "Zi Zi" with trousers, and a small ribbon is used to tie the wide trouser legs.
The colors of jackets and long skirts are colourful, and some even add bright and gorgeous brocade.
The traditional Korean clothing - Hanfu dress is made up of blouse and loose skirt. It looks very elegant. Men's clothing is made up of tops and trousers. As a white nation, the basic colors of Hanfu are white.
According to different seasons and different identities, the dressing, cloth and color of their dress are different.
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Hanfu is a clothing that can perform all kinds of feelings according to the color and material of clothing.
Generally speaking, the coat is brightly colored and the lower coat is the most classical [6].
Men's wear
The Korean men's Hanfu includes the Chegu Li bake (??), the Zhou Yi, the Dao robe (?), the crane's cloak, the deep dress, Ma Guazi and the straight collar (??).
Usually it's the bottom of the outside of the house, and wear another coat outside.
Women's wear
The traditional Korean dress is chikhiri skirt, that is, Chai Kiri + vest skirt; the traditional color arrangement is a red skirt with light green or white or blue jacket, and a blue skirt with a red or white or yellow jacket.
In addition, purple skirt with light purple jacket, dark purple skirt with pink or jade jacket.
Hook back
shoes
In China, Koreans, Koreans and DPRK are all popular.
The Korean people have always advocated plain white, and their clothes and shoes are mostly white, simple and generous, and full of national characteristics.
The Koreans often wore straw sandals and clogs in ancient times, and later developed into shallow shoes.
Hook shoes, shallow mouth, easy to wear off, and rain and rain dual-use.
Headwear
Men and women will braid their heads until they are adults or married.
Adult or married men will wear their hair in a bun on the top of their heads. Unmarried adults and unmarried women and ordinary ladies in court (bras, nuns) and medical women will put their plaits behind their heads and tie them up with coarse ribbons (most of the early Koreans were married in early days, and most of them were married before their teenage years).
Married women, prostitutes (Yi Ji), senior female officials (Shang Gong, Shang Yi, Shang Fu, etc.) will wear "Jia", that is, putting the wigs into a dish, starting in Korea, and the king of loyalty ordered Korea to wear Mongolia clothes and Mongolia bun.
Later, Li Chenggui, the founding father of the Korean emperor, adopted the policy of "lowering the male and descending the female", the male resumed the Han system, and the females "Mongolia Han parallel", and later developed into the "offer" style.
The offer is a symbol of identity and wealth. The rich and noble women like to add various ornaments on the offer. Some women, especially aristocratic women, offer more than three circles, and even develop "wooden bun" in the palace.
There is a jade board on the top of the head of the wife and the outer wife's dress, and the flower hairpin is used as the headwear. It is also known as the "phoenix head". This is also a kind of paper, representing the status and status strictly.
The imperial concubine, the wife of the wife, and the palace of the Shang Dynasty put a pair of pillows between the offer and the top of the head.
At the time of the pure ancestor, there were women who had broken their necks to death because of the heavy offer.
Later, married women changed their plaits into braid and inserted hairpins instead of hair plates.
Pattern
With elegant lines and colors, the pattern of Korean dress is more prominent.
Skirts, sleeves, shoulders and other parts with patterns, more outstanding gorgeous style.
There are plants, animals, nature and so on.
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