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Shanghai, The Only Luxury Brand In China, Has Lost 14% Of Global Customs Stores

2013/6/17 19:39:00 40

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13 years ago, "Shanghai" is the only luxury brand in the eyes of foreigners. The scenery comes from the acquisition of the second largest luxury group in the world. At that time, "Shanghai" only founded 6 years ago.

As a result, the development of Chinese a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > clothing < /a > luxury brand "Shanghai" has gradually become a classic case of top brand management, and the courses of international famous business schools regard it as a sample of the development of Chinese brand internationalization.

however, compared with the success of textbook rendering, the reality of "Shanghai" is now facing an awkward situation.

According to the latest earnings report of the peak group, there are only 7 stores in Shanghai in the past year, leaving only 42.

Less than 14% of the closing rate in the past year, is the decline of performance or failure of pformation? Is it too much emphasis on the international market or a false impression of the Chinese market? Behind the glory of the great market and the remarriage of Shanghai, P is suffering from fission.

To make matters worse, "Shanghai" is also facing the risk of becoming a "deserted wife".

Recently, Johann Rupert, chairman of the board of directors of the summit group, said that the acquisition made by the group is not always successful, so we must deal with bad investments faster.

At present, the president of two fashion brands has resigned and the sale of disappointing fashion brands is seen as the next move.

in Shanghai, such as Cartire, Earl, Vacheron Constantin and other luxury goods, the group, like "a boat", has changed many times, but it seems that it has not yet identified its own direction.

Fashion costumes are more frequent than traditional ones. Stores are frequently depreciate less than /strong > /p >

the new world of Shanghai is a gathering place for foreigners and Chaozhou people. The largest store in Shanghai is located on the first floor of the North Li 15 small building, which is submerged in an open western restaurant and a gift shop with Chinese characteristics. This shop, known as "China's first luxury brand", is not very bright and seems lonely.

store windows display the latest season of men and women's < a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > dress < /a >, the display of men's and women's clothing is on the same side, the left side is men's clothing, the right side is women's clothing, and the middle are displayed in the past are bags, jewelry, cuffs, pens, wallets and other accessories.

In the left corner there are more than 10 children's wear and the ancient and exquisite Qipao and Tang costume.

although the entire storefront is only 10 square meters, there are many commodities in it, but for the main costume, there are few styles and quantities.

"Our a target=" _blank "href=" http://www.91se91.com/ "> clothing < /a > generally has 2, 4 has two, 6 6 such.

A saleswoman told financial weekly newspaper reporter.

Limited sales is a marketing strategy, or is there a demand for the market itself?

"I have seen their stores recently, and the goods are really unintelligible. They are all on sale."

Luxe View Ltd.

Alicia Yu, chief luxury analyst, told financial weekly newspaper reporter her impression of "Shanghai".

however, in the "Shanghai" Xintiandi store visited by reporters, from the perspective of clothing displayed, the traditional Chinese characteristics are weakening and fashion is enhancing.

Most of the Chinese characteristics of rope buckle and buckle is also a small number of applications, such as this year's latest Xiangyun pattern dress series, style includes modern fashion and improved cheongsam style.

The design of rope buckles is basically adornment on belts and bags. Occasionally, there are several ancient Liriodendron. It may be strange that it may be a suit and skirt with a collar and collar, but there is no lack of personality and beauty.

what is most worth mentioning is that the service attitude of the staff here is very good.

Whether it is a smiling face to welcome or enthusiastic customers to try on new clothes, truly "customer is God", people feel warm and respected, no luxury salesperson always arrogant.

In the more than 20 minutes of the reporter's visit, occasionally a few foreigners would patronize.

"P >" we are the main Chinese style, very traditional and fashionable, half of our guests are foreigners, and the other half are Asians.

Many of our guests are very rich, but they do not like to wear LOGO.

This saleswoman introduces the customer of "Shanghai".

Chinese custom /p > > strong > Deng Yongqiang

Like P and other luxury brands, "Shanghai" also has a story related to aristocratic celebrities.

In 1994, Hongkong businessman Deng Yongqiang founded the Shanghai brand. In the hearts of Hongkong people, Deng Yongqiang was an upper class person. His name was always associated with celebrities such as Princess Diana, Prince Andrew, Clinton and He Hongshen.

Deng Yongqiang, who claims to be "ignorant of the clothing industry", netted the top 9 tailors in Hongkong, who had moved from Shanghai to Hongkong in the early days with the sensitivity of businessmen. He threw 120 million Hong Kong dollars to set up the first "Shanghai" shop in pall street, central China, and began to make custom clothes for Chinese celebrity friends, selling "old Shanghai customs".

it is precisely because of this celebrity effect that "Shanghai" has been positioned as a high-end brand from the beginning.

This coincides with the story of many international luxury brands for "royal nobility", and also establishes the noble luxury lineage of Shanghai, and adds some brand legends to some extent.

the development of the "Shanghai" of the wind and water allowed Deng Yongqiang to accelerate the pace of international expansion. In November 21, 1997, "Shanghai" opened a flagship store with an area of more than 1000 square meters on the opposite side of the Barneys department store in Shanghai and in the golden section (1379.90, -3.10, -0.22%) of Madison street. However, it was brutally affected by Waterloo. Only 19 months after its operation, it had to be shut down because of its gloomy business, and Shanghai was at a low ebb.

Soon, he sold most of the company's shares to the group and chose to quit.

the "Shanghai" in the Deng Yongqiang era, the product line is single. It is only limited to women's clothing, mainly in Qipao, Tang costume and mandarin jacket. < a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > designer < /a > mainly with traditional Chinese tailors.

Although "Shanghai" is quite famous in the upper reaches of Europe, the selling point of the product is only limited to the customs of old Shanghai. It does not have a clear market positioning and is more inclined to customize. It decides on what kind of clothing products to design and produce according to the needs of the market and the requirements of customers.

When the peak group took over Shanghai, it began a radical reform of Shanghai.

the development of the peak relay from single product line to hodgepodge > /strong >

the image of the "savior" in front of "Shanghai" is Lei Fuyi, who has experienced the luxury operation. He was responsible for Cartire's London Business and served as president of the count's Asia Pacific region.

however, when he first saw "Shanghai", his first feeling was "there is not a dress that I can wear out at once." and also felt the creative director, Joanne Ooi, who was invited by Lei Fu Yi. She thought that Shanghai's weird clothes were not appreciated by the local Chinese, just like the fashion version of Disney park.

two the high tacit understanding of Shanghai makes the next reform go smoothly.

first, relocate "Shanghai". Lei Fu Yi locks the target customers in the 25 to 50 year old middle and high income people. They are keen on fashion elements and have the courage to show their individuality.

On the product line, on the basis of women's wear, men's wear series and younger products are added.

In the continuation of the "Shanghai" Deng Yongqiang era of Chinese elements design, and joined the modern fashion design elements and ideas.

secondly, the designer team changed the blood, Lei Fu Yi changed the original designer team in Shanghai, and set up a design team with foreign designers and Chinese designers one by one, from the original pure Chinese style to Chinese and Western style.

Third, expand the product line.

Having more derivatives is one of the characteristics of luxury goods which are different from ordinary brands. According to the experience of MontBlanc, Earl and other luxury brands, the next step for Shanghai is to develop derivatives.

This is also a set of basic brand management ideas that Lei Fu Yi has planned for a long time: "the concept must be both China and the whole world.

Since being positioned as luxury, it is necessary to implement the brand line according to the rules of the luxury industry.

, therefore, under the "Lei Fu Yi" trader, the "Shanghai" brand increased men's wear and children's clothing. In the years when Joanne and Ooi fought side by side, Shanghai's performance began to rise.

In particular, the total revenue of Madison Street specialized stores rose 50% in 2005, and the overall performance increased by 40% over the same period last year, mainly from the Asian region, which accounts for 70% of the total number of branches in Shanghai.

later, Joanne Ooi left "Shanghai" and Lei Fu Yi became more radical. He extended the product line to many services such as accessories, household items, custom made clothes and so on. In 2009, "Shanghai" also launched a "feng shui master" wrist watch.

but the most daring crossing was in 2010. "Shanghai" opened the world's first brand concept restaurant "Shanghai restaurant" in Xintiandi.

According to Lei Fu Yi's words, it is to extend the brand experience to taste. At this time, Lei Fuyi set up a new position for Shanghai: pforming Shanghai from a fashion brand into a lifestyle brand.

Less than P, a series of big moves can't satisfy people's needs. The hodgepodge product line also makes the brand difficult to set.

Although the product line of Hermes and Givenchy [micro-blog] is also very extensive, this is a long-term accumulation of brand awareness and reputation, and has been accumulated. For a young brand with a history of only 19 years, whether it can bear and digest such a change remains to be seen.

"after the acquisition of Shanghai, the design concept, including channels, sales, shop location and brand promotion, is very helpful."

Steven, who is in charge of external media, told financial weekly newspaper in Shanghai.

but Alicia Yu does not think so: "brand exposure is very important. The brand of the original niche (profitable, business opportunity) is now buried under the big name of the famous brand, exposing a lot of opportunities.

It seems that designers are not known. "

For Shanghai's performance, ray Fu Yi has been very secretive.

Shanghai will open flagship store and reclaim the Chinese market /p >

Up to now, Shanghai has a total of 42 stores in the world, including an online store, P.

Among them, 29 in China, 5 in Singapore and Kuala Lumpur excluding China, 5 in Europe and the Middle East, and 2 in the US.

In the past year, it has decreased by 7. Alicia Yu thinks this shows that Shanghai's performance is very poor.

The shop selection of Shanghai is very distinctive. Airport and star rated hotels are their preferred location.

According to the store statistics of the latest brochure, Shanghai has 14 stores in the airport and 5 in five star hotels.

As for the expansion of shops, Lei Fu Yi has been ambitious, but in fact the expansion is not smooth.

During the 2008 Beijing Olympic Games, Lei Fu Yi announced that he would vigorously promote the "Shanghai" with the help of the Olympic Games. The goal was to have 50 branches in the world including Madrid, Moscow, Losangeles and Dubai before 2010.

At that time, there were only 31 stores in Shanghai.

Until now, "Shanghai" still has no shops in Losangeles or Dubai.

When the international luxury brands seize the Chinese market, the Chinese luxury brand "Shanghai" goes against the same path.

But this is Lei Fu Yi's propaganda strategy: "sales in the Chinese market, but the focus of publicity overseas."

What is the effect of ? Zhou Ting, Dean of the Fortune Research Institute who had personally participated in the research abroad, said that foreigners really recognized Shanghai as China's best brand.

On the other hand, although "Shanghai" has opened most shops in China, it is not known how the "Shanghai" sales volume is unknown among domestic consumers, and its media public relations Steven also declined to comment.

"P >" is a double-edged sword. On the one hand, they have gained popularity in the international market and have raised their reputation, including the support from the group inside the group, but on the other hand, if they are not promoted in China, they may lose the wave of consumption and lose Chinese consumers.

Only a part of the Chinese consumers will know it. The real result is that a few people know that a few people buy it.

Although some foreign people will buy it, the real consumer is the emerging market countries such as China, India and Brazil.

In the long run, it will cause some damage to the brand of Shanghai.

Zhou Ting said.

fortunately, "Shanghai" may be aware of the need to expand the publicity of the Chinese market. In mid June, it announced the reopening of the Chinese market by opening a new flagship store.

"formerly known abroad, but we will do very well in China in the next few years, because the new flagship store in Shanghai will be opened in June.

Before going out, and now coming back, the emphasis is on the claims in the mainland.

Steven said that "Shanghai" has always attached great importance to the Chinese market and will pay more attention in recent years.

For last year, "Shanghai" closed 7 stores, Steven said it was not clear that the company's strategy may be adjusted.

but will Shanghai become a tasteless tasteless food in the inner circle of the group? Under the leadership of ray Fu Yi, where will Shanghai go? It is still a mystery.