Local Designers Are Scarce, Designers Lack Growth Space

At this session clothing Festival, at home and abroad designer Gathering, showing the runway and being popular, there are few outstanding local designers. This also reflects the dilemma of Ningbo garment industry. As a famous clothing city in the world, why can't Ningbo cultivate its own excellent designers? This topic has also attracted the attention of the industry.

present situation

Lack of local designers

Ningbo, as a big clothing city, has spin There are more than 16000 garment enterprises, of which the total industrial output value and sales revenue of enterprises above designated size have reached 120 billion yuan, which makes Ningbo people, especially those in the garment industry, very proud.

As the demand for clothing has entered the era of fashion and personalization, many clothing brand enterprises have begun to focus on creative design and channel terminal store design instead of production, which has greatly increased the demand for designers.

Steve&Vivian is Ningbo Aisheng Clothes & Accessories Ltd. At first, the company also hoped to recruit chief designers to check the brand style of the company. But this wish has not been realized. Wang Lan, executive director of Aisheng Clothing, said, "There are very few good designers in Ningbo. We have also recruited design directors or chief designers in Shanghai and other places, but ultimately these designers could not stay. Later, we chose the route of" fashion buyers+modified design ", which requires relatively low ability of designers."

　　 "Although there are many people in Ningbo who are engaged in fashion design, Zhejiang Textile and Clothing College also specializes in training talents in this field. But from the current situation, Ningbo has the ability to start with fabric design and style design, to control the whole industry chain from the end sales design to pricing strategy, and there are less than 50 senior design talents. Our demand for creative design talents is at least 1000 More than. " Zhang Xiaofeng, secretary-general of Ningbo Garment Association, said that there are more than 30 brands under the group enterprises such as Shanshan, Boyang and Taipingbird alone. If one brand needs at least one chief designer, these three enterprises need more than 30 excellent designers. Ningbo's existing designer talent pool is simply insufficient.

reason

Designers lack growth space

At the same time, some costume designers also have some complaints about this. They believe that the lack of designers in the factory and the lack of proper growth space for them will lead to the shortage of design talents in Ningbo.

Zeng Liping, a fashion cashmere women's clothing designer, has designed many women's clothing brands in Ningbo and Hangzhou. She believes that although Ningbo garment enterprises attach importance to design, they pay more attention to product quality control and brand awareness; For designers, they only need to design some trendy styles, and will not let designers dominate the whole process from fabric design, style design to terminal design. These are all decided by the boss himself, and designers have little room to play in them.

Hu Jin, Mai Zhonglin's director of women's clothing design, has also worked in many enterprises such as home design and clothing design before. She felt the same way. "It usually takes more than 5 years to cultivate a designer, so Ningbo garment enterprises would rather spend money every year to buy new models and launch new products than focus on the training of designers."

The reporter also learned in the interview that many years ago, Youngor, Shanshan, Luomeng, Lodz and other enterprises also made great efforts to improve

Hire and cultivate their own famous designers, Liu Yang, Wu Xuekai

Fang Min, Wu Haiyan and other top ten Chinese designers have served Ningbo garment enterprises, but the cooperation between the two sides has not lasted.

"Ningbo clothing attaches more importance to processing, manufacturing and marketing, while designers should dominate all links from fabric to terminal. There is a certain conflict between the two sides, and the coordination cost is high, which is the main reason for the separation of the two sides. In addition, the fashion atmosphere in Ningbo is weak, and even there are few places for creative designers to drink coffee and exchange ideas. How can we retain design masters?" Chen Guoqiang, Vice President of the China National Garment Association and Director of the Industrial Economy Research Institute of the China National Garment Association, said.

countermeasure

Integrate resources and start to break through

The reporter interviewed many insiders in the industry and found that the clothing industry generally believes that to cultivate excellent designers, there should be a relatively complete cultivation mechanism, including the learning platform, communication platform, display platform, etc. of designers. At present, Ningbo lacks relevant mechanisms.

　　 "Although Ningbo has Zhejiang Textile School and designer specialty, and has good communication with designer colleges in Britain and other places, generally speaking, the talents it cultivates lack the opportunity to further study after entering garment enterprises to work as designers. To grow, designers must go to other cities with better conditions and atmosphere, such as London, Beijing, Shanghai, etc, Can be exercised and brought into play. " Zhang Xiaofeng thinks.

In view of the lack of excellent designers in Ningbo, Ningbo Fashion Association also said that it was considering breaking the bottleneck. "We hope to set up a professional designer committee in the clothing association, establish a designer exchange platform, and launch a designer work contest. In this way, a group of designers can be gathered together." Zhang Xiaofeng said, "Now there are more and more fashion brands in Ningbo, and designer brands may appear. The time is ripe to set up a professional designer committee."

As an attempt, five Ningbo designers Zhang Guoping, Zeng Liping, Fang Bin, Cai Zeen and Wang Yi had face-to-face exchanges with five Korean designers at the designer salon of the China South Korea Fashion Competition held yesterday afternoon. This is also the first time that Ningbo International Fashion Festival has launched Ningbo local designers. Their works were also released dynamically last night.

"Our association hopes to introduce several overseas designer studios to Ningbo to form a framework of benign interaction and communication, so that once there is an opportunity, Ningbo designers can be promoted to the international stage and local designers can accelerate their growth," said Zhang Xiaofeng.

This time, INTREX, together with Zhejiang Textile and Garment Institute, invited students from five British universities and textile schools to carry out collaborative innovation and original design competition, and held a dynamic release activity last night, showing the demeanor of Chinese and foreign design students. Zhu Shuchuan, the head of the brand, said that they had recruited a group of designers from Zhejiang Textile School and accepted the guidance of foreign design masters, hoping to emerge a group of competent designers under the cultivation of the company.

-Stone of other mountains

"White collar" cultivates designers like this

Beijing White Collar Fashion Co., Ltd. is a leading brand of high-end ready to wear in China, as well as an enterprise gathering excellent designers. The company has white collar, SHEE'S, K.UU, GOLDEN, COLLAR and other famous brands, and has cultivated more than ten top ten designers in China.

Miao Hongbing, the white-collar chairman, said that to cultivate an excellent designer, we should pay the price and endure loneliness, grow together with designers, and establish a cooperative benefit sharing mechanism.

An excellent designer has to go through many stages of training, such as assistant, chief creator, brand design director, etc. It usually takes 5 to 8 years to recommend to participate in the selection of China's top ten outstanding designers. White collars spend more than one million yuan on training designers every year. In this process, white-collar designers can constantly launch their own works, and constantly exchange and learn. At the same time, they can use the company's platform to display and recommend in various occasions, enhance the exposure and influence of designers, and achieve both internal and external learning. "Every year, we will recommend excellent designers to participate in the selection of China's top ten designers. This is a kind of wealth for the company and also a recognition of designers," Miao Hongbing said.

Miao Hongbing said that white-collar workers have established a set of benefit sharing and punishment mechanism for the problem that outstanding designers choose to seek another job after successful cultivation, and the company's gains outweigh its losses. "We give excellent designers and brand design directors good treatment and space to play their talents. At the same time, there is a non competition agreement, which can ensure that designers can stay for our own use." Miao Hongbing said. ?