He Yan: I Agree That I Am A Good Designer.
P: < strong > reporter: when did you start your own design? Why did you choose to make costume design? Can you tell us about your experience? < /strong > /p >
< p > strong > He Yan: < /strong > I started in 2004, because I studied fashion design at college.
In fact, when I was in University, I was interested in learning to draw and wanted to study pure art. But because of the lack of good painting, the teacher suggested that I should study some craft colleges. Almost all the craft colleges and universities went to the exam. The result was the best costume examination. The highest score was taken at Wuxi light industry university. Later, the northern dress also sent the admission notice. At that time, because of the impression of Wuxi, it liked the mountains of the city, so she chose Wuxi.
After graduating from university and working in Shanghai, I didn't do very well in the clothing company. I didn't take care of it too much, and I thought it was too restless. I always thought it was too boring.
In addition, the company will have some office politics, and I really can not stand it, so I will never be willing to work again, so I decided to do it myself.
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< p > < strong > reporter: After deciding to do it yourself, have you set up your own studio? < /strong > < /p >
< p > < strong > He Yan: < /strong > has not actually established any studio, because we haven't registered any brand yet, so there is no special studio.
It was only in 2004 that I made my first show. I didn't expect anyone to buy my stuff, so I began selling some clothes on the show.
Then, in the 2006, some media began to pay attention to me, and also interviewed some of them, knowing that more people were in my life.
From 04 to 09 years, every year there will be a show. From 10 years, it began to cooperate with the independent designer brand integration store, and sold products in Shanghai and Beijing. During this time, there was no press conference. The most recent release was in the 13 year October "Republic of China", that is, now this studio is also where I work.
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< p > < strong > reporter: you are from a family and your parents are engaged in this industry. What do they think of your < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/pioneer/" > < /a >? < /strong > /p >
< p > < strong > He Yan: < /strong > no family. My grandfather is a tailor. My mother is my grandfather's Apprentice. At the very least, he is a tailor's family.
My mother would often come over to see it. She told me before, "does anyone buy it? How ugly it is. She has different angles with me, but for a long time, she will slowly accept my taste, and my aesthetic will feel good."
My father usually doesn't comment, but I know he still agrees with me.
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< p > < strong > reporter: did you expect to succeed now when you started to do it? < /strong > < /p >
< p > < strong > He Yan: < /strong > I did not think of that at the time.
When I was doing the first show, I wanted to say that I had fun and finished a show, and I was more secure in finding a job, but later I didn't find a job. In fact, for a long time, the design was also selling badly, but it has been up till now.
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< p > < strong > reporter: what do you think is the difference between your current design and what you did at the beginning? < /strong > < /p >
< p > < strong > He Yan: < /strong > I think I have made progress in design, but there is no special difference. There is no difference in essence. But in technology, there is also understanding of technology, and accumulated experience has been growing for so many years, so I feel that my clothes are becoming more and more complete.
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< p > strong > reporter: then what do you think is the difference between Chinese clothes and Western ones? < /strong > < /p >
< p > < strong > He Yan: < /strong > I feel that the way of life is so close now, there is not much difference in the way of life, but there are differences in tradition. We all know that the Chinese temperament has changed, and is no longer the so-called mysterious and implicit East, and everyone is very open and very direct.
If you want to say something different, I think it's the difference between people and people. Whether in the east or west, some people like to be reserved. Some people like to make a big difference. Some people like luxury and sexy. Every designer has different preferences. So I think it is not the difference between < a href= "http:// www.91se91.com/pioneer/ > > East West < /a >, but the difference between people.
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P: < strong > reporter: now many designers come back from abroad. Your whole experience is entirely in China. How do you view this matter? < /strong > /p >
< p > < strong > He Yan: < /strong > Yes, they are so good that everyone has been abroad.
Qiu Hao's return to China in the 07 year was a great shock to me. He opened a shop in Shanghai. After seeing it, I was very excited. At that time I felt very scared and very afraid. The way of thinking returned from abroad was really different. I'm afraid there will be more and more designers like this. Designers like us may not have room for existence. But this fear didn't last long. Later, it was discovered that the key is not whether you have overseas experience, but your own experience of life, and your identification of your identity.
Even if I am out of the country, I will be different from them, because everyone's feelings and understanding of the world are different. These things are just like a designer or even a person's existence, different from others, so I think personal experience is the most important and decisive thing.
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< p > < strong > reporter: what do you think is the most profound impact on you in individual experience? < /strong > /p >
< p > < strong > He Yan: < /strong > I haven't seen any ups and downs in my life.
But my parents have great influence on me, and my brother's influence on me is also very great.
My brother was my enlightenment in aesthetics. He started painting, and then I began to paint, including many artists who he brought me to know.
For example, when I used to learn painting, when I was still painting the plaster, he had already contacted Van Gogh. You know that Van Gogh and gypsum were much worse. He would take me to Van Gogh.
My show models are all friends, and there are ordinary people who are invited. The fun is in this process. You and this person, whether you know him first, or because he has been your model, has become your friend. There are many interesting things in the process of communication. These are positive energy, and I am a full of negative energy, but all I receive is positive energy, otherwise I will not insist on making a show in such a way when it is difficult and unpleasant.
These experiences have had a lot of influence on me.
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< p > strong > reporter: do you like ordinary people to be models? Do they think they are better than professional models? < /strong > /p >
< p > strong > He Yan: < /strong > I have been using this way for the past few years, a href= "http://www.91se91.com/pioneer/" > show "/a". Actually, it is very difficult, though the cost is relatively low, but you invite friends to come to the show, they are not professional, you want them to present a relatively professional or even perfect state, it is to pay a lot of experience, to adjust a lot of things, this is different from the model.
You will find many designers design things, models wear and ordinary people wear is completely the two look, but I completely shielded the model from the beginning, I will pay great attention to the ordinary people wear this suit, he wear out is not good, is not beautiful, this is very difficult.
Of course, the professional model also has the advantage of the model, because the model itself is a good carrier, it can add points to the clothes.
But I am very picky about models. The average model still can't reach the standard in my mind, so I still use my friends, not that my friends are better than the professional models. I choose the vegetarian, I must have some special qualities that attract me, or she has the strong points to carry the clothes.
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< p > < strong > reporter: from 99 to now, do you think the environment of the industry has changed? < /strong > < /p >
< p > strong > He Yan: < /strong > changed. The change is quite big. 99 years people can not imagine that their clothes can appear in the buyer's shop and sell to the customers who can afford it. Because the price of the clothes sold is quite high now, I think the designer of the 99 years should not be able to imagine that clothes can sell such a price.
At that time there was no online shop, although I personally do not consider it, but open shop is also a lot of design will consider the choice.
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< p > < strong > reporter: what is the inspiration for the new season's work? < /strong > < /p >
< p > > strong > He Yan: < /strong > this season I have made many dresses. In fact, this show has something to do with the Pina Bausch's "communicative field" show. Just now I have friends from modern dancers, and I want to cooperate with my dancers. I think the whole arrangement of the dance and the whole scene of Pina Bausch's "communicative field" are especially suitable for fashion show, so she borrowed the concept of her communication.
I hate party very much. I wanted to show the embarrassing state of human being in party, but when I was arranging it, I found it very difficult and very artificial. So I still took this intention away. This time the two elements of clothing and limbs are in show, and music and music are the most important.
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< p > < strong > reporter: do you have preset for people wearing your clothes? < /strong > < /p >
< p > < strong > He Yan: < /strong > may have, for example, there will be some presuppositions on the figure, all I do is a very small amount of clothing, so if the chest is too large, I can not wear it. Maybe this is the so-called preset.
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< p > < strong > reporter: what kind of role do you think "Oriental Image" plays in your design? < /strong > /p >
< p > < strong > He Yan: < /strong > we may have some < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/pioneer/ > plot < /a > in 70s. What we do will actually have some 70s and 80s or 30s and 40s infatuation. This is the impact of the times on us, including Zhang Da will do some retro designs such as blue cloth and big cotton padded jacket. I think the temperament of several of us is quite similar.
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< p > < strong > reporter: Why did you choose the city of Shanghai? Do you think the temperament of Shanghai city attracts you? < /strong > /p >
< p > < strong > He Yan: < /strong > is that after graduating from Wuxi University, Shanghai is very close. Shanghai is a big individual city, so it came to Shanghai to find a job.
And in terms of cloth, the resources in Shanghai are also better than those in Beijing.
I am a southerner, and I like the weather here, but I do not particularly like Shanghai. After all, Shanghai's temperament is quite exclusive. That is, people of the older generation will think differently. Young people are still good.
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< p > < strong > reporter: what is the definition of "fashion" in your dictionary? < /strong > < /p >
< p > > strong > ho Yan < /strong >: the word "fashion" is very literal. I think the word "fashion" has been biased by the media. It has become a synonym for the fashion industry. Fashion may include the fashion industry, but it is not the same as the fashion industry.
Now that fashion is basically about the fashion industry, I don't like the word, nor do I define it.
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< p > < strong > reporter: some people will feel that there is a right and wrong fashion. What do you think of it? < /strong > /p >
< p > < strong > He Yan: < /strong > this is true. I think the so-called right and wrong is right with this person, because the same a href= "http://www.91se91.com/pioneer/" > rule < /a > is not set on him, put on another person, it was established, so there is no absolute right or wrong.
Just like some design nature likes to wear is different from others, there are also some designers, for example, I do not mind if I have a silly hairstyle, do not mind wearing ordinary, and do not mind others say that you do not look like a designer at all.
Right and wrong is completely related to your heart. Your mind is like this. You wear it right. What you see and what you know is two concepts.
For example, if others commented that He Yan is a very native designer, it is all the comments of others, but from my own point of view, I agree that He Yan is a very good designer, that's right.
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