Explore The "Main Line Image, Vice Line To Make Profits" Situation.

In 1988, Donna Karan launched DKNY, and Prada launched Miu Miu in the 90s of last century. They usually use the reputation of the main line to design consumers who are unable to buy the mainline for young people. The original idea is profitable, and the response from the market has always been good. Even once, there has been a "main line of image, a profit from the secondary line".

Secondary line or reorganization or independence.

But now, this situation has changed quietly. In recent market cycles, the market position of secondary lines has changed dramatically. First, the sub line that used to occupy the middle reaches of the market must compete with light luxury such as Michael Kors and Tory Burch, while the latter positioned the product as the real main line. The sub line has now been surrounded by three sides.

We must remember that Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana stopped operating D & G in 2011 and classified D G into main line Dolce&Gabbana. At that time, the news shocked the fashion industry and led to the last wave of rush buying of D & G faithful. At that time, the brand's annual income was about 400 million euros, which was pretty good. The move has always been speculation, but now it looks clear.

Another way of sub line is to go it alone, like Prada's repositioning of Miu Miu, or to the main line, to reduce branches. Because over the years, some of the sub line owners have influenced the image of the main line. Some brands are too confused. The smaller the brand, the harder it will be to maintain the cost of business. So LV would rather sell cheap key chains and extend the product line rather than play a small LV.

"We know that besides Giorgio Armani, there are Emporio Armani, Armani Exchange, Armani Jeans, Armani collezioni, etc. In fact, the latter 3 brands are basically handed over to distributors. An insider who worked in Armani told the Qianjiang Evening News reporter: "we have also discussed whether Armani's secondary line is too large, and it will cause confusion." So now concentrating on the main line and advanced customization, only Emporio Armani is fully managed by the brand.

"Now there is no independent brand of Zegna Sport. It combines with Z Zegna to become a new Z Zegna. Moreover, we are not Zegna's secondary line (inferior to famous brand, better brand than general brand), but a completely independent brand, which is the same." Recently, if you visit shops in Z Zegna, as long as there is a little doubt about the "auxiliary line" in the language, salespeople will emphasize this with you. In fact, the brand new Z Zegna announced a new identity in Italy last year, and took the spring and summer of 2015 as a new starting point.

"In fact, Z Zegna is not the secondary line of Zegna from its initial stage." Zegna responsible person said so.

Of course, it is not surprising to hear such a voice, because Miu Miu has already expressed similar wishes, indicating that Prada is already the two independent body rather than who adheres to it. A subtle change in the circle: the side line that used to be delicious seems to have become a noun that everyone is eager to get rid of now.

　　 Luxury goods The secondary line is not as attractive to consumers as before.

One thing is clear: these extensions are not as attractive to consumers as they used to be. "Consumers clearly know if the secondary line is not available. Independent brand Identification, the whole series is just a tool to make money for the brand. " King continued, "8 years ago, as long as the brand produced a large number of sub line products, PR activities could only focus on the mainline. But today's market is no longer the case. Consumer awareness has been raised, and the independence of the sub line products is higher.

For the sub line, the key is to define its own unique fashion logo. "This must not be driven by business, but rather focus on building a unique brand identity and integrating the corresponding design elements to provide consumers with more valuable and cost-effective products." MatchesFashion.com's buyer director analysis.

In the long run, if the secondary line has a good balance with the mainline, an independent and strong brand logo, and a very effective alliance with the mainline, it will develop very well. But for most brands, it may be more practical to combine low-priced products into the main line: to be honest, the secondary line adds to the cost of the brand, causing confusion to the consumers, and finding the reason to stick to it is really more and more difficult.

　　 Secondary line Where are the pressures?

The sub line is now being squeezed in "three aspects," says Luca Solca, director of the Exane BNP Paris Bank of Financial Services Company, a luxury research department. In addition to the approachable luxury brands, consumers now have more choices from high-quality modern brands, such as 3.1 Phillip Lim and Alexander Wang, to products that designers cooperate with large retailers.

Mario Ortelli, senior vice president of luxury goods at Bernstein, believes that "these latecomers are more productive and more competitive." And competitors have a fast product cycle and a strong fashion. At present, there are only a few auxiliary lines such as Marc by Marc Jacobs, Emporio Armani and so on, which have strong competitiveness.

Of course, more importantly, the growth of consumers has changed their understanding of the secondary line itself. "I was fascinated by these sub lines a few years ago. When I went to Hongkong, I bought a lot of DKNY and Marc by Marc Jacobs. After all, the mainline was too expensive, and the secondary line could satisfy some psychology. But now, I love designer brand. " Rebecca, who works in the IT industry, said, "and many of the sub lines are too dependent on the main line of logo, giving people the impression that they are not independent, nor are they unique enough, and their performance price ratio is not high."

This can also explain why those who wish to live on the side line are eager to be independent gateways with the main line level. "The secondary line has to rely on the main line when it first came into being, because it can make the unknown quickly succeed, and when it comes to stability, it naturally wants to become an independent body, otherwise it will always be an accessory." One industry insider said.