"Changzhou Zhi Zhi" Is Writing The Future Of Textile And Garment Industry.

In Changzhou, speaking of the development of textile and garment industry, there are many proud names, black peony and second dyed fabrics.

But "stop and stop" makes a group of once splendid textile and garment enterprises enter the twilight dusk. Some of the "made in Changzhou" gradually fade out of the stage of history and only memories remain.

But people can't just live in history. This is not the whole of Changzhou's textile and clothing industry. The dream of a city needs people to inherit brilliance.

Today, the vitality of traditional industries, especially the textile and garment industry, is affecting the world.

This is inheritance, vitality, innovation and charm.

From seven or eight to more than 70 years of innovation and development, we have read the past and seen the future of traditional industries, especially Changzhou's wisdom.

History: brilliance, just a mirror

The wind, from the East, perhaps only the lonely wind, still remember the hot Changzhou.

Before the denim becomes a black peony, Beijing cloth shoe fabric "Yuan Gong" is a sharp weapon for black peony to break through the rivers and lakes.

The predecessor of the black peony was the Changzhou second dyed fabric factory established in 1940. The original second color dyed fabric was still small in the Changzhou textile industry. However, when many enterprises were abandoned by the years, the Black Peony grew into the largest denim production enterprise in the country and became a banner of Changzhou.

This is not an accident.

Since 80s, black peony has been like her name.

We have to call them black peony and let them fly around us.

In 1992, black peony annexed Changzhou tenth weaving mill, annexed Changzhou eight weaving mill in 1994, and accepted the original ninth weaving mill of Changzhou in 1996.

In 1980, second years after the registration of the trademarks of black peony, black peony fought to denim.

"At the time, there was no popular denim in the country. From the" Yuan Gong "to denim was a great risk, however," Yuan Gong "obviously had no way out.

Zhao Wenjun, vice president of the black peony group, said.

At that time, only a factory in Guangzhou was trying, but the special dyeing process and special looms for producing denim were floating clouds.

In 1982, the Black Peony turned a thought into a blueprint and finally became a successful denim order at the Canton Fair.

In 1983, the Black Peony denim was awarded the highest prize of the time, the national silver award.

In the mid 90s of last century, the brand entered the more than 50 countries and regions of Europe, Asia and the United States. Levi "s" and "GAP" became long-term customers.

In 1992, black peony was set up in the fashion of Bao ton (now Rong yuan dress), which was made from self denim and exported to Europe, America and Japan.

In 2002, black peony was listed as the first Chinese denim in A shares.

Just as it has become one of China's largest and three largest denim production enterprises in the world, black peony opens its own fragrance. In 2010, its own brand ERQ came out.

The growth of black peony is more like a mirror. The fate of many enterprises is different from that of black peony.

After the 90s of last century, the industrial structure adjustment, a number of brilliant state-owned enterprises, have been in trouble. Some names have been engraved in the Yearbook. Of course, there are also old factories like the 50 Fen factories, which stopped production in 2007 and remained silent for a long time.

Today's 50 Fen factory old factory area has become a cultural and creative block, canal five creative block.

Old factory buildings, old storehouses and boiler rooms were pformed into "small refreshing" teahouses, creative workshops, literary salons, exhibition spaces and fashionable bars. It became the spiritual home for Changzhou people to touch history and find homesickness.

Though a little bit of vicissitudes, as with the insistence of the black peony, the 50 Fen factory passes the thread and track of the development of Changzhou's national industry.

Turn around: innovation, enterprise development new life

Enjoy real quality - enjoy the true quality, and its abbreviation ERQ is the new life created by the black peony.

To enjoy the true quality from the details, even for every tiny thread, we must deal with it quite precisely because the international standard is the standard.

A state-owned enterprise with a history of over 70 years has grown up and become more and more colorful. Now it is recognized as the first brand of export denim production in the industry.

Zhao Wenjun said, a viable enterprise is to continue to inject vitality, in order to go further.

From "Yuan Gong" to "denim" to "ERQ" independent clothing brand, there is no attempt and display of innovation and vitality.

In fact, Changzhou's "Blue Leopard" Western-style clothes, "top quack" colored cotton underwear, "Lao San" brand clothing, and "Bo man" business casual wear and so on are a number of independent brands that rely on innovation to go out of their own way.

But when it comes to innovation and vitality, we have to mention Abbey clothing that is separated from the Black Peony wall.

This young enterprise that has only been established for more than 10 years should not be underestimated.

Dare to use the word "burst" because the enterprise growth mentality is clear.

In fact, many enterprises have always been very entangled in their choice of brand dreams or to recognize their advantages and make foreign trade honestly.

"To do the OEM for world famous fashion brands, Abe, Abel has in turn provided a set of supply chain solutions for world famous brands."

Liu Yuanming, general manager of Abe apparel, said that at the beginning of the establishment of the company, the European and American clothing brands had been engaged in processing and OEM production. The biggest achievement of OEM production was to create an excellent team, improve the R & D capability and get funds for development.

The biggest difference between Abe and his peers is that they constantly enhance their independent design and enhance their bargaining power when the OEM is posted. The profits that follow are also well reflected. The profit of OEM products is relatively large.

"If you plant them in a flowerpot, you may be beautiful, but you will never grow tall trees, but if you give a vast expanse of soil and space," with such ambition, Abe actively seeks pformation in 2008 and strives to build an independent brand ABLE JEANS.

However, the road of independent brand is extremely difficult. The biggest problem is that there are goals and directions in the OEM. When we do our own brand, a series of problems come. Brand positioning, marketing and channel development, including the willpower and learning ability of the founder and the whole team, are all very great challenges.

But this world is the stage for dreamers and doers.

Ah Bei has such a dream that our country can own Cowboy brand like Europe, America and Japan. The vision of Able Jeans is to become an international cowboy brand in China.

Now and in the next 10-20 years, people's lifestyle is moving towards the trend of youth. Jeans are changing from functional to fashion. Cowboy has become a fashion symbol.

People who have seen the Able Jeans brand show or have visited the Able Jeans store often feel that there is a particularly strong sense of modern, retro and international brand.

"Globalization thinking" and "localization behavior" are combined. Ablejeans harmoniously integrates the avant-garde trend with the love of local consumers.

For vision, product's almost harsh requirements, to ensure the quality of customer experience.

"The top-level design of ABLE JEANS brand is international, more dynamic, younger and more self, and has grabbed the" post-90s ", said Liu Yuan Ming. The ABLE JEANS brand has been rooted in the market for seven years. At present, it has basically realized losses, and the annual growth rate of ABLE JEANS is the same as that of the market segments. Last year, it achieved a 70% explosive growth.

From simple OEM to independent design to independent brand.

In recent years, Abe has achieved the "three level jump", and its annual growth rate has remained above 50%. The R & D center and brand promotion center of the company have become the best among their peers.

"So far, we can breathe a sigh of relief."

Liu Yuanming said,

Not only is the traditional industry, but also the fashion industry. Under the new normal, we must use fashion to enhance the charm of traditional industries. Abe's dedication and efforts are winning the market, reputation and space.

Wait: in the future, let the world know Changzhou.

Now AI is qualified to say that success is no longer far away.

But Xu Rong, who is about ten minutes away from Abe, has begun to lead the world.

"Adidas, Puma...

As long as you can tell the world brand, basically have the figure of Xu Rong.

Xu Rong is not the biggest in the industry, but it is definitely the best.

Xu Rong has built a national research center, the national textile product research and development center, which is the first national sports and leisure knitted fabric development base in Changzhou.

In the production workshop of Xu Rong, soybeans, milk fiber and so on can become new textile fabrics. Some fabrics are thin like cicada wings, light as floating hair...

A new interpretation of the trend of the times, leaving people's silk and people's imagination.

Although Xu Rong only provided fabric, he took the initiative to participate in the fashion design of the major brands. The designer directly used the fabric that Xu Rong developed and accords with the global fashion trend, so that the company could compete for value from price competition.

Zhang Guocheng, deputy general manager of Xu Rong, said: "before dealing with the market at low end, it is high-end development and leading the market.

We collect and collate information on global trends in advance and provide valuable marketing services to our customers.

"Now, the fabric we provide to the brand designer has been in line with the 2016 or even 2017.

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Xu Rong is also an early enterprise in Changzhou using Internet thinking.

Xu Rong's online sample room, different members of the customer can get the most popular trend, and quickly choose cloth samples.

The online sample room is actually just the tip of the iceberg of the value based marketing service management system platform (VFM platform). This platform has been closely linked with various systems and production links such as weaving, SOP control, ERP system and so on.

Zhang Guocheng said: "the VFM platform is like the heart, connecting the body organs which are not related to each other as a whole."

The application of VFM platform has greatly accelerated the development of product originality, proofing and order.

In 2014, the results of the first year of the platform surpassed the expectations of the enterprises. The number of new product development reached 4496, and the target task 80% exceeded the target level. About 3% to 4% of the new products were achieved by mass production after improvement. The delivery time of samples decreased from 21 working days to 17 working days, shortened by 20%, and the sales of main businesses increased 15.96%.

Zhang Guocheng talked about the development of VFM platform, said: "we hope to integrate cotton production, dye auxiliaries and other textile industries to the platform, fundamentally change the situation of passive production in the industry, and form a common development situation of the industrial chain with information sharing as the core."

The integration of industrial chain is a trend of enterprise development, but it is still long to truly integrate the "Internet + industrial chain".

In fact, the black peony ERQ was also the most fashionable independent electronic business platform at the beginning of its birth. After running for nearly a year, the shops in the two or three tier cities across the country spread out in full scale. "There are nearly 10 entities stores in Changzhou, such as department stores, new century, Huambo and Parkson."

The new mode of online and offline synchronous sales is like this meeting with a 70 year old factory.

Zhao Wenjun said that the black peony is also considering stepping out cautiously and gradually coming closer to developing countries from the United States, Japan and some European countries.

"What others see is now, what we see is the future."

Liu Yuanming said Abe's goal is to build a global Cowboy brand from China and is currently working on it.

In the next year, industrial 4 will also make efforts to make quality and standards more uniform and more efficient, and push the ABLE JEANS brand to the world.

The active pformation of enterprises has also changed the concept of some officials towards traditional industries. Song Jianwei, head of the government of Tianning District, said that in the past, "the government wanted enterprises to pform", and now it is "enterprises must pform themselves". Through innovation driven and brand building, traditional industries are upgrading and upgrading to the existing industries.

He said frankly that enterprises have a long way to go to realize the "brand dream".

But as long as we cultivate areas that we know well, and cultivate our brands every year on the premise of maintaining our own advantages, one day, the Changzhou brand will shine the world.

"Enterprises are most afraid of finding no way out!" Professor Chen Bo, a professor at Shanghai University of Finance and Economics, who has long been engaged in regional economic research and industrial research, believes that pigs can fly and do not apply to all industries if they look for the right draught. He believes that powerful enterprises should be able to fly regardless of wind and rain, and change the traditional clothing industry's thinking and operation mode. Innovation of enterprise value chain and even business ecology is the most important thing. If traditional industries want to break through the market encirclement, they must use the Internet thinking to resolve the pain of traditional industries and find a way out, regardless of whether the sky is left with traces, enterprises in pition should bravely fly.

What is a city famous for? In addition to the history of humanities, the answer given by many entrepreneurs is a world-wide brand. In Liu Yuanming's mind, if ABLE JEANS grows into a global brand, this is Changzhou's business card. ABLE JEANS embodies vitality, dynamism and dreams, which fully agree with Changzhou's City image.

History is turning around, so let us wait.