Clothing Customization: China'S Market Is In The Ascendant

Cost should be controlled but not minimum.

Private custom belongs to the Pyramid spire in the field of clothing. Therefore, good quality is the absolute principle.

Without mentioning the ancient Silk Road, almost everyone knows that China is a large producer of textile raw materials. But little is known about the fact that in today's clothing industry, more and more businesses are importing raw materials of textile products, and the proportion is increasing.

This is particularly prominent in the field of clothing private customization.

The past and present of clothing customization

Clothing private custom originated in France more than 150 years ago.

The first standard Custom Boutique in the world appeared on the streets of Paris as early as 1858, and "advanced customization" became its pronoun.

Charles Frederick, who is known as "father of fashion", changed the way the tailor could tailor his dress according to the requirements of his employer, so that his high fashion shop tailored to customers entered the upper class of Paris.

The "advanced customization" of clothing favored by the royal family is popular. In addition to the popularity of officialdom, the princes and nobles attend all kinds of important parties and parties. They also focus on and can not get away from "advanced customization", because this has become their first choice to show their identity, pursue their individuality and embody themselves.

10 years after the first Custom Boutique came out, the French Fashion Federation was established in 1868, and in 1945, nearly 80 years later, the French government set strict standards for the design, innovation and production capacity of high fashion. This became the foundation and template for its popularity in Europe. Even the fashion empire Italy and fashion capital, Britain, pursued the "high-end customization" of private clothing, and became drunk as the Peugeot of the class, high-end and texture life.

Clothing private customization has been accepted by our nationals. Since the 90s of last century, most of Beijing, Shanghai and other cultures have taken the lead. The personal studio of fashion designers has become the place of private access for clothing customization, and is becoming more and more rapidly becoming a fashionable and sophisticated lifestyle.

In the age of the world, the world's top jewellery is custom-made, such as the Cartier necklace, the most luxurious car is customized, such as Rolls-Royce, the most expensive clothing is Paris's advanced customization, which adds their horsepower to them.

Private equity acquisition

The person coming to Chen Peng is Mr. Chen Peng, the general manager of Beijing edinshan Garments Co., Ltd.

In 2003, the company was founded by Chinese Americans and made private garments in China. The core is collecting worldwide customized orders and processing in China.

He did not forget to add that China is the world factory.

Between 2003 and 2010, Chen Yu, who was determined to focus on "private clothing", encountered many problems.

With the retirement of the older generation of clothing technicians in Britain and Italy, the custom industry has shrunk. But at this time, China's manufacturing industry is booming.

Customizable ideas and big goods are two concepts. The uniformity of industrial production, the stability of orders and the efficiency of tailoring are particularly important. Tailored products do not possess these characteristics, especially for hundreds of thousands of shirts. Even though the processing cost of products is 3 times that of ordinary domestic products, there is no manufacturer willing to take up such projects.

What a beautiful dream it is to dress privately. Chen knows that if you want to achieve it, ask for help.

In the early autumn of 2013, he took over a medium-sized garment factory in Beijing in the form of equity acquisition.

The acquisition of the factory mainly focused on the original factory, with good equipment and nearly a hundred workers.

After taking over, he constantly instilled private customization ideas for the original personnel, including skilled workers and management personnel, but there were still some problems.

So he made great efforts to make internal adjustments, exchange big blood, and moved the US database to China.

After 27 months of hard work, now the factory can produce 180 suits and 300 shirts a day.

Such a factory that can customize suits and customize shirts is very few in the world. This makes the 6000 square meter factory in Shunyi full of vitality.

Most customers in Eden hill are from the United Kingdom, the United States and Canada.

The price of each custom garment starts at two thousand or three thousand yuan, and the garment is not refined with two of the goods on the assembly line. The difference is basically the size of the individual.

There are private custom traditions abroad, and foreign customers are clear about what they want, and they will make a lot of tedious and detailed requests.

The price of a single product will sometimes reach 30 thousand yuan, or even 300 thousand yuan.

Why do we need to customize raw materials?

What kind of suit can ask for 300 thousand of the price? And some people are willing to pay for it. This has aroused the curiosity of reporters. Chen Peng's team had done such a customized garment.

Chen said frankly that this suit is expensive, and it is different from the clothes made by the customers. It is made of a kind of goat's camel hair in Italy.

This kind of Alpaca can only be wild, not slaughtered, and the output is scarce. The only way is to collect cashmere, so the fabric price is as high as tens of thousands of yuan per meter.

To make a suit is about 3 meters, and the fabric can only be handmade. So this suit of 300 thousand is not a bid to raise the price, but a value for money.

Speaking of this, Chen told reporters that the clothes made by Edin Hill mostly used imported raw materials, of which the line, shoulder pads and lining were mainly imported from Germany, and buttons were imported to Italy.

Why do we need to keep track of the raw material of clothing? This topic is appalling.

Chen replied that custom made garments are not entirely without domestic materials, and fabrics are sometimes used, mainly according to customer requirements.

As we all know, domestic wool textile is well done.

What is not known to the outsiders is that some of the ideas for processing domestic raw materials are not in line with private customization.

For example, the domestic pursuit of high yarn weaving requires wool to be very fine. Under the premise of controlling the cost, the domestic wool will be fined by chemical or physical methods, so as to achieve the effect of high yarn weaving. The problem is that the fabric is brittle and poor resilience.

There is no difference in new clothes, but it will appear after a long time.

For this fabric, private customization is basically repelled.

The raw materials abroad are the opposite, the closer the wool is, the better the quality.

Resulting in the large number of imports of clothing private custom imports

Is the raw material "delayed" because of the existing textile or printing technology in China? Chen said that Western-style clothes are a kind of western culture, and Western understanding of fabrics is better than that in China.

Although there are many kinds of woolen fabrics in China, can they be called flowers? We need to ask a question mark because the overall textile methods are different.

Besides, lattice fabric is especially popular in Italy, and most of the Chinese people choose the color of their suits, especially black, blue and grey.

Chinese people are not unsuitable for their suits but are not accustomed to them.

Domestic textile mills mainly serve the large cargo production process, and will inevitably choose the popular fabrics for clothing manufacturing, while private customization aims to highlight individual characteristics through thousands of flower types and colors.

In addition, theoretically speaking, China is a large country producing cashmere, but there is still a certain gap between cashmere's printing and dyeing technology and foreign countries.

The cashmere dyeing and printing in Italy are basically natural pigments. The colors are not so bright, they will be slightly darkened. The domestic dyeing is more brilliant, but the use of chemical pigments will bring environmental pollution. If people touch the skin, they will have an impact on human health, so that people will have such worries.

Behind the scenes hero wants to change to "stage".

Since 2010, many businessmen have turned their attention to Southeast Asia, and some low value-added foreign factories have also withdrawn from China and moved to Southeast Asia.

The total cost of spelling together, the price, the country has no advantage of demographic dividend.

Many garment factories are eager to pform, but they are faced with many problems.

The factory can collect the size of the guests, but how to pform these specific dimensions into products satisfying the guests. The uniform garment designed by the designer has taken many details into account, but the private custom garments are changing. How to input these data into plate making, what data is useful and what needs not be input is a problem.

Chen's general manager is gratified that after more than ten years of experience, he can solve most of the problems at present, but in the face of different customers, he can not say one hundred percent no problem.

Contrary to ordinary factories, the cost of private customization is controlled, but the minimum is not required.

Customization is part of the Pyramid spire in the field of clothing, and the best quality is good quality. Besides, customers who are favored by suits are less sensitive to selling price.

Along the way, Chen's team endeavours to weaken its brand, highlight the customer brand, and maintain the true meaning of personal customization.

They know that the British Saville Street (Savile Row) is a famous private custom street where many celebrities are connected, and when they choose the shop, they tend to pay more attention to the store's history, the word of mouth, or the owner of the store, to form a "self care and beautiful" culture.

Based on this, Chen would like to open up, and the market does not know that our store is normal, because private custom factories solve the backstage problems for these stores. What they mainly do is the platform.

Finally, the designer's role is weakening, and the personality and needs of customers need to be publicized.

A near perfect.

It can be called the result of the co creation of designers and customers.

Let customers participate in the whole process of design and make it a work of art that belongs exclusively to guests. This is the ultimate meaning and joy of private customization.

Western-style clothes have special etiquette and exquisite, strictly speaking, the sleeves and shirts should have a difference of two centimeters.

But each person has different arms, and it is difficult to guarantee the two centimeter line without accurate measurement.

Sometimes, in order to ensure this, people will modify the sleeves of the purchased garments, but the clothes will remain unchanged as a whole.

"Pull the hair and move the whole body", collar, lining, pocket, backswing...

There will be "protest" for this little change everywhere, which is a rigorous and persistent objective environment for Chen.

He likes it.

In order to have more "private" to make clothes, in order to carry forward this fashionable consumption form in China, Chen Pengzheng is thinking about the pformation of his factory management mode from B2B to B2C.

In this regard, he has difficulty in speaking frankly.

In order to solve the conflict with the previous customers, taking into account the maturity of foreign customers and the high awareness of customers, he decided not to open shop abroad.

There are not many domestic cooperative stores, and the market is huge. Even if the stores have little impact on the customers' stores, they plan to open their own stores in the country this year.

At the moment, he is studying and understanding the Beijing market, and hopes to get more guidance in the initial stage of the capital.

Private custom is eager for successors.

Compared with Beijing, Shanghai's traditional tailoring shop seems to be better. Why does AI Ding Shan choose to set up factories in Beijing? Chen said frankly that he had struggled for 5 years in Shanghai, but the difference between Shanghai city and countryside was small and the cost of land was high.

Besides, there are mature tailors and mature industrial workers in Shanghai. They can only be recruited from Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces.

A few years ago, there was labor shortage in Jiangsu and Zhejiang.

The problem of Shanghai is hard to solve. Chen has to turn his eyes to Beijing.

Speaking of clothing private custom inheritance, whether in China or western countries, there is a threat of no successor.

The reason is obvious that although the private customization price is high, the output is limited.

In addition, the problem of cognition.

To make a good suit can show the temperament and interest of the guests. At present, many private custom shops in China simply provide a clothing for the guests, and can not bring the guests into the design process.

How to integrate guests' favorite colors and suitable colors, whether or not they can use various collocation such as pattern and lattice to achieve this is not only a problem that people can talk about by tailoring, which requires a deep understanding of clothing culture.

At the beginning of the communication between foreign stores and customers, it was not just about clothes, but about red wine, politics, ball games and other things that seemed to be different from clothes and horses and cattle. Through this way, we could understand the customers' preferences and styles, and even deduce which occasions the customers often come and go, so as to give reasonable suggestions and make the most suitable new clothes for the customers.

If you want to give the customer a reasonable suggestion, first of all, the clothing man must stand at a certain height, be familiar with what the customers are interested in, and have some insight into tailoring.

Such a private custom worker is very experienced abroad, with an average age of about 40 years old, but there is no such professional talent in China.

Nowadays, fewer and fewer people are willing to be lonely, and this industry needs the spirit of craftsmen.