Luxury Footwear Industry Turned Cold Roger Vivier Showed The Most Robust Performance.

The industry is turning cold, but Roger Vivier has become the most robust industry.

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Italy luxury group Tod 's is undergoing a difficult pition period. But it seems that the most important thing it has done is to complete the acquisition of Roger Vivier at the end of 2015.

According to the Tod three s earnings report released this week, its core brand Tod 's has been the 7 consecutive quarterly revenue decline, and the group's pformation initiatives have not seen any significant results.

But Roger Vivier is the only growth brand in the group in the first three quarters of this year. It has nearly double digit growth for 8 consecutive quarters since the fourth quarter of 2015 and has outperformed all brands of the group.

According to the world clothing and shoe net, Italy was in the first 9 months as of September 30th.

Group Tod's was affected by poor performance in its wholesale channel and core shoe department. Sales decreased by 4.7% to 722 million euros, compared with 758 million euros last year.

Among them, group core shoe sales fell 4.9% to 574 million euros compared to the same period.

The picture shows the main performance data for the first three quarters of fiscal year 2017.

Tod 's's fashion reform seems to have failed to get its due return. Now, not only has people lost the sense of novelty about the lack of product innovation "Doudou shoes", during the period, Tod's brand sales fell 7.4% to 389 million euros year-on-year.

Hogan sales fell 8.8% to 157 million euros compared with the same period last year.

Roger Vivier continued growth trend, sales grew 9.6% to 113 million 300 thousand euros.

The Fay sales of new creative directors appointed in September decreased by 1.7% to 44 million 800 thousand euros compared with the same period last year.

By region, Italy's sales in the group's local market decreased by 6.7% to 227 million euros, while sales in other parts of Europe decreased by 2.9% to 130 million euros; sales in the Americas decreased by 17% to 57 million 600 thousand euros; Greater China was the only recorded increase in group sales during the period, up 1.4% to 155 million euros compared with the previous year, and sales in other parts of the world dropped by 4% to 99 million euros.

Diego Della Valle, chairman and chief executive, said that the decline of its brand sales was mainly affected by the weakness of wholesale channel business. The future group will focus on the development of e-commerce channels and increase investment in product design and marketing innovation.

Tod's group also announced on Monday that Umberto Macchi di Cellere, Bvlgari's former global sales director, will serve as managing director of the group.

In contrast to the sluggish performance of Tod's, Roger Vivie is an outgrowth, and this has been going on for some time.

Roger Vivier classic buckle shoes Belle Vivier

In November 2015, Tod 's group announced the acquisition of luxury footwear brand Roger Vivier brand ownership at a price of 415 million euros.

According to earlier reports, the comprehensive acquisition of the French shoe brand Roger Vivier is an important plan of Tod 's group, and Tod' s group has already had the production and distribution franchise of the brand since the beginning of 2011.

Emilio Macellari, chief financial officer of Tod's group, has said that Roger Vivier will become the biggest profit brand of Tod s group in the future, and its accession will have great benefits to the interests of the group.

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Another classic shoe of Roger Vivier.

The founder of Roger Vivier founded the same name brand in Paris in 1907. He once designed shoes for Yves Saint Laurent. The classic design followed is the square silver buckle and the unique shoe heel at the front end of the toe, such as the comma.

The famous movie "the beauty of the day" in the 60s of last century made the Roger Vivier red. Under the guidance of fashion icon such as Ines de la Fressange, the brand became synonymous with French elegance.

The movie "the beauty of the day"

Roger Vivier is one of the few brands that can follow the classic brand elements for a century.

Compared with the design of the last century, the square silver buttons and special heels of the brand hardly changed much.

Insisting on selling classic money is one of the important reasons for Roger Vivier brand to extend its life.

Compared with many other luxury shoe brands, the Roger Vivier style reduces the flowery and gorgeous elements, and is more suitable for everyday wear and is also suitable for formal occasions.

With the return of style in 60s, Roger Vivier also took the lead in the trend.

Twiggy, Ines de la Fressange and so on, showing the fashion icon in neutral style has become the inspiration for designers.

Roger Vivier brand Mousika Ines de la Fressange (figure left)

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At the same time, the classic style just caters to the commuter demand of white-collar workers.

With the continuous progress of society, this demand is expanding rapidly, stimulating the sustained and rapid growth of Roger Vivier in the past two years.

Some observers say that Roger Vivier is almost the most common commuter shoe in the most advanced workplace nowadays, which is a "rigid demand", which guarantees the sales volume of Roger Vivier.

Of course, the impact of KOL's "take delivery" can not be ignored.

In the past few years, with the large-scale rise of KOL, square buckled shoes as a "net red standard" quickly swept the social network of China.

In the recent play of "the legend of the blue sea" by Gianna Jun, the green square buckle flat shoes worn by Korean dramas have also become the focus of heated discussion.

Korean drama "Legend of the blue sea"

In addition, unlike some luxury shoes brand with a single product category, the Roger Vivier handbag product, which is a core element, has not been marginalized. It has established more links with the present through social media and aesthetic form.

Many other luxury shoe brands are increasingly far from the lifestyle of young people nowadays.

In the past two years, the profitability of Roger Vivier has been fully verified.

In fact, it is not easy for Roger Vivier to win such a record.

In recent years, the luxury footwear industry has entered the cold winter. Selling shoes is not as good as selling handbags.

The British luxury shoe brand Jimmy Choo was attracted to 896 million Michael by light luxury brand Kors.

In view of the continuing downturn in the global fashion retail environment, JAB, the main controlling shareholder of Jimmy Choo, said earlier that the fashion business was a "non core" business, and plans to abandon its Jimmy Choo and Bally businesses, focusing on the development of consumer goods such as coffee and sandwiches.

It is worth noting that Jimmy Choo was the first successful footwear brand to be listed, and one of the most radical luxury brands in 2015. The brand expanded earlier at about 15 annually.

But HSBC analysts said in March that the growth of Jimmy Choo was slowing down. The actual sales growth in 2016 was only about 2% to 364 million pounds, while the growth rates in 2015 and 2014 were 7% and 12% respectively.

Kai Yun group is also aware of the risk of a single luxury shoe brand market. It has been looking for buyers for its sole shoe brand Sergio Rossi since 2010. It was finally sold in December in 2015, and it was Italy investment company Investindustrial.

New York Times columnist Vanessa Friedman said that the sale of Kai Yun group proves that a pure shoe brand can not easily integrate into a more diversified garment strategy mode, and exaggerating the synergy effect of leather products makes it difficult for the brand to realize its original intention.

According to the news of February this year, there are rumors that Italy luxury brand Salvatore Ferragamo will be sold.

Affected by the downturn in global tourism retail sales, sales of Salvatore Ferragamo group (BIT:SFER) in fiscal 2016 slowed sharply to only 1%14.4 billion euros, which prompted speculation from foreign industry that Ferragamo would be sold.

Salvatore Ferragamo began to slow down in early 2016 due to the sale of footwear products, and its share price plunged more than 7% on the day of the three quarter of last year.

The reason why the luxury shoe industry is getting cold is that the trend of migration and the evolution of consumer preferences can not be ignored.

Fashion trend is the portrayal of contemporary society.

20 years ago, Carrie Bradshaw, the heroine of sex and the city, came to the Manolo Blahnik of luxury shoes in Spain.

But with the deep remodeling of street leisure style to the fashion industry, the market's heat on sneakers is faster than those of high heels.

Young consumers are more willing to queue up for Kanye West coconut shoes, and are more willing to buy a pair of Gucci shoes that can be worn every day under the same budget instead of Christian Louboutin high heels worn on special occasions.

However, the most need to learn from the experience of Roger Vivier now is not the other brands, but the Tod 's, which results in the deterioration of product performance.

More interesting reports, please pay attention to the world clothing shoes and hats net.