Consumer Market: Hanfu'S Influence In Popular Culture Increases

"The red Qilin waistband is engraved on the red Qilin shirt." Hanfu enthusiasts like to use this poem of Tang Dynasty poet Li He to describe the beauty of Hanfu. Hanfu is the general name of the traditional costumes of the Han nationality, also known as Han clothing, Han clothing, Huafu, etc.

In recent years, wearing Hanfu has become a fashion. In the streets, parks, or bookstores and museums, you can always see Hanfu lovers with their hair and clothes fluttering.

Recently, tmall apparel and other institutions released the "insight report on consumption trend of Hanfu 2020", which shows that in the past three years, the Hanfu market has shown explosive growth. In 2019, the transaction amount of Hanfu on Taobao platform exceeded 2 billion yuan for the first time, and the number of consumers who have purchased Hanfu on Alibaba platform is close to 20 million.

Behind the Hanfu fashion, a new cultural consumer market is growing rapidly.

A rising tide

On the evening of March 26, the third "Chinese costume day" online party arrived as scheduled. On the same day, more than 10 million people poured into the official live broadcasting rooms of the Central Committee of the Communist Youth League on various platforms, and 1.1 billion times of reading on the topic of "China's Chinese clothing day" were read on the whole platform.

"Chinese costume day" is a Hanfu activity initiated by the Central Committee of the Communist Youth League. It is designated as the third day of the third month of the lunar calendar. Since 2018, it has been held for three consecutive times. Because of the epidemic situation, this year's activities have been changed to live online.

Around this year's Qixi Festival, Hefei, Kunming, Shijiazhuang and other places have held Hanfu themed activities, which combine the Chinese Valentine's Day folk custom with the interpretation of Hanfu to show the original traditional culture.

Hanfu has become a cultural phenomenon that can not be ignored.

"No clothes? I'm in the same robe with my son. " Han suit enthusiasts like to call each other "tongpao". Xu Yi, 20, is one of them. Xu Yi, a Chinese language major at Communication University of China, is also the president of Zijin Hanfu society. As a child, she liked watching costume drama. She began to contact Hanfu in junior high school and joined Hanfu society in high school. "From simply feeling good-looking, to curiosity, and finally falling in the cultural connotation of Hanfu." Xu Yi described his mental journey of "entering the circle".

Zijin Hanfu club is an early Hanfu student association in Colleges and universities. It has a history of 13 years and has hundreds of new members every year. Xu Yi said that in addition to the regular spring outing in the Han Dynasty on the third day of the third lunar month, the association also has regular popular science lectures, offering courses such as Han and Tang dance teaching and Guqin learning.

Zijin Hanfu club is only a miniature of a large number of Hanfu associations, and also an example of young people's recognition and love of Hanfu.

In station B, Hanfu related "up masters" are growing at a doubling rate every year. According to statistics, there will be 83.47 million National fans in station B in 2019, of which 83% are young people under the age of 24. On Weibo, "Hanfu" topic has reached 2.92 billion. On the tremolo platform, 1.518 million submission videos were collected under the entry of "Hanfu", and 38.06 billion plays were obtained.

"The most fundamental reason why Hanfu has become the choice of clothing for more and more young people is the charm of traditional clothing culture itself: the classic clothing shape, the traditional dyeing and weaving skills, and the unlimited possibility of innovation." Jiang Yuqiu, an associate professor at Beijing Institute of fashion, said that Hanfu is one of today's many clothing choices, just like western suit, Qipao and Zhongshan suit. In many countries, such as Japan and South Korea, the traditional kimono, Korean suit and suit are very natural. I hope you can look at the choice of each kind of clothing with a common mind.

A manifestation of cultural confidence

Young people begin to pay attention to and choose Chinese traditional clothing, and regard it as beauty and fashion. This is not only due to the ancient style of Hanfu itself, but also the return of Chinese cultural confidence and the love of young people for Chinese excellent traditional culture.

LV Xiaowei is the founder of Hanfu brand returning to the Han and Tang Dynasties, and is also a member of the Organizing Committee of "China Chinese clothing day". She told reporters that the investigation conducted by the Organizing Committee showed that many young people regard wearing and loving Hanfu as an external manifestation of cultural confidence of contemporary Chinese youth.

In Jiang Yuqiu's opinion, this is a natural choice formed in the social environment of favorable time, place and people. "The confidence atmosphere of national culture, the practice of cultural heritage in Colleges and universities, the efforts of industry design innovation, and the love of individual traditional clothing are all the reasons why more and more people choose traditional clothing."

In Lu Xiaowei's opinion, in recent years, the influence of Hanfu in popular culture has increased. In addition to the guidance of the state and society, there are also many "tongpao" who have made unremitting efforts for more than ten years. In addition, the popularity of video websites has truly demonstrated the various possibilities of wearing Hanfu, which has narrowed the distance between Hanfu and ordinary people. "On websites such as station B, shuoyin and Kuaishou, there are various scenes and forms of wearing Hanfu: people wear Hanfu to travel, eat hot pot, drink coffee It has broken the imagination limit of the public on Hanfu before, and made many people feel that they can also wear Hanfu in their daily life

Hanfu fashion has brought positive effect. For Xu Yi, the most intuitive feeling is that the costume of ancient costume drama is becoming more and more exquisite. "For example, the costumes in the TV series" whether you know it should be green, fat, red and thin "and" qingpingle "will be changed for the sake of film and television effect, but in terms of shape, it is moving in the direction of restoration."

Jiang Yuqiu believes that the popularity of Hanfu will promote the in-depth study of ancient Chinese clothing history in the academic field, including the clothing system, the history of dating clothing, and the textual research of famous objects. At the same time, it will also attract the public fans to enter the museum, pay attention to textile cultural relics, and let more historical relics "live"; in the field of skill inheritance, it can also promote natural dyeing, traditional weaving and ancient printing The inheritance and innovative design application of local embroidery and other skills.

An industry in the ascendant

According to the insight report on consumption trend of Chinese clothing in 2020, women account for nearly 80% of the Chinese clothing consumers of tmall, among which "post-90s" and "post-95" are the main consumers. Hanfu market also gave birth to hanshang Hualian, back to the Han and Tang Dynasties, such as dream neon clothes and other head brands.

Founded in 2006, it is the first brand in China to establish a Hanfu physical store. From the opening of the first physical store to nearly 30 physical stores in more than 20 cities in China, the development of the brand also witnessed the boom of the Hanfu industry. Last year, the sales of returning to the Han and Tang Dynasties reached 100 million yuan, a 10 fold increase in nearly three years.

Lu Xiaowei told reporters that from the sales data, in recent years, there is an overall trend in the consumption of Chinese clothing for the public, that is, the demand for daily Chinese clothing is increasing. "In the early days of the store, Hanfu was mainly used for traditional festivals and special occasions, and the sales volume of formal dress was the most; now, with the popularity of Hanfu and the deepening understanding of Hanfu by the public, more and more people hope to wear Hanfu in their daily life, and the demand for regular wear is increasing significantly." Lu Xiaowei said that with the increasing number of "tongpao", the demand for Hanfu will be more diversified.

The diversified demand gave birth to the development of Hanfu industry. The market "cake" of Hanfu design, sales, exhibition and surrounding supporting services is growing, and training institutions have emerged as the times require.

However, from the perspective of the current Hanfu industry, Hanfu has not yet formed a mature business model, which is still dominated by small-scale self-produced and self-sale. Lu Xiaowei agrees. For example, she said that there are few mature Hanfu fabrics on the market; Hanfu manufacturers need to cultivate themselves; from the perspective of the industrial chain, there is not much room for selection of accessories, including headwear and shoes.

AI media consulting analysts believe that in order to truly realize industrial development and change to mass consumption, Hanfu can try to combine with popular IP, encourage cross-border cooperation, improve the exposure of Hanfu merchants, absorb different consumer groups, and promote Hanfu culture with IP.

This is indeed the direction that many Hanfu brands are trying. Some brands, including returning to the Han and Tang Dynasties, have achieved cross-border cooperation with national style games, costume dramas and traditional cultural variety shows, and have received good market feedback.

"The Hanfu market is only initially prosperous, and there is still a lot of room." Lu Xiaowei believes that Hanfu is a kind of clothing with cultural added value. The industry has just started, and there will be more perfect industrial chain and market segmentation in the future. This is something to look forward to.