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    How Can We Keep The Old Chinese Craft On The Verge Of Extinction?

    2008/7/28 0:00:00 53

    Now, when you walk on the street, can you see a teacher who is blowing sugar in the street like a child?

    Will you be excited to paste New New Year pictures at home?

    When spring comes, can friends around you cut out a "eight gourd turn spring"?



    Life is becoming more and more busy. These popular things seem to be getting farther and farther away from our lives. We do not have more time to pay attention to it.

    But suppose that one day, if they disappear from our lives, will there be some sour feeling in your heart?

    Will there be an urge to stay?

    How many people can really practice and keep these wonderful memories?



    Recently, German born Chinese Salina, born in Shanghai, has attracted much attention for saving over 200 yuan at his own expense.

    According to her introduction, 11 years ago, she looked for a button like pattern in the market but got nothing.

    Disappointed, she had the idea that as time went by, many old tailors passed away, and this handicraft was on the verge of extinction.

    What can I do to inherit this craft?



    With her husband's support, she worshipped the teacher, who was born in the tailor's family, and hired 8 young apprentice stunts.

    After grasping the traditional pattern, Salina designed his own new button.

    Today, Salina and his brother Song Taoru have cooperated 155 pieces of 2418 world's unique buttons.

    In order to further promote the inheritance of the process, with the support of the local government, Salina is declaring the technology of non-stop cultural heritage protection.



    Two years ago, I met a teacher who was a sugar man. He was more than 70 years old.

    His son and grandson grew up with his works, but none of the two generations wanted to learn this craft.

    On the one hand, the master is afraid that this skill will be lost. On the other hand, he does not want to go to school, but he says, "there is no way out."

    At the age of more than 70, he wanted more people to meet the sugar man again. He used a very rich word to say that maybe this is the curtain call of sugar people.



    In Tianjin, the old people can not help extending their thumbs and shouting "good" when they mention yangliuqin blue and white New Year pictures.

    But the old technology that has been circulating for hundreds of years is a handful of people today.

    There is also the paper-cut mentioned above. If the paper-cut is gone, the children will see it in their books. How can we explain to them that this was once the pride of the nation and the treasure of the people?



    The pressure of society is getting greater and greater. Many young people are unwilling to learn the old technology that neither eats nor drinks.

    At the same time, there are also some people who hold the secret recipe in hand but refuse to teach easily.


      


    Is the trajectory of prosperity necessarily declining?

    We do not know how many Chinese people are in the mountains now, nor can we insist on keeping the secret recipe for the most part of their lives. But we know that the technology handed down by the elders should never be lost in the hands of our generation.


      


    No, nor can it.

    Knot buckle, look at previous work.

      
     

    Speaking of ancient costumes, people who watched more TV dramas were no stranger to it. What impressed me most was the long gown and mandarin jacket of the Qing Dynasty.

    But the ancients' attention to costumes is not to be seen in two TV plays.

    Walk into the collection of He Zhihua, the vice president of the collection of Specialized Committee and the expert of clothing collection expert of the Tianjin Museum of Arts and culture, looking at what he called "tattered" boxes of Qing Dynasty costumes. The exquisite fabrics and meticulous traces of stitches and lifelike maps are no longer such a good job as the father said.

    Many things are seen in a subtle way, and clothing is no exception.

    The little button on the dress is called the Tianjin knot.

    When people just put on their clothes, the knots did not appear. The tape used to fix clothes was not yet there.

    According to archaeological discoveries, the history of the buckle can be traced back to the Ming Dynasty. At that time, the buckle had not yet come into sight. Most of them played an ornamental role in an uncertain position.

    After the Wanli calendar in the Ming Dynasty, high collar women wore metal collar buttons.

    Because the button is more convenient than the belt, in the Qing Dynasty, regardless of male money, female money, or children's clothing, the buttons were used in large quantities, and soon replaced the band became the main way of fixing the skirt.

    The Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China were the flourishing period.

    At that time, there was no special place for processing buttons. When designing and making garments, the tailor regarded the buttons as part of clothing.

    According to Mr. Ho's collection experience and years of research, the simplest button is made of fabric, the same fabric as clothing.

    Although the buckle is not like clothing, different grades have strict rules, but its materials and workmanship can also show the owner's identity.

    The poor families could not afford tailors, and cut their own cloth. The buttons on their clothes were the simplest pattern: one side was the knob shaped buckles and the other was the buckle.

    The better the conditions, the more sophisticated the fabric, and the choice of silk and satin.

    The fabric of the buttons is changing, and the styles are richer: peach shape, flower shape, typeface, animal, sun and moon.

    Nothing in the universe can become our ornament.

    Looking at these lifelike buttons, I can't help thinking of what kind of clever people they were born in.

    Because before making a button is not an independent business, so Mr. Ho's hand clasp is mostly the simplest style cut from the clothes.

    Later, every time he talked about a form of a button, Mr. ho turned out a garment from his camphor box to give us an example.

    In the 80s of last century, Mr. ho bought a whole box of clothes from those "down and down kings" on the five Avenue. These ladies' costumes were not only material, exquisite and elegant, but also about color matching. Among them, there were two kinds of color matching buttons and decorations.

    In addition to the difference in styles, buttons on old clothes are not the same.

    The same is the knot knot, buckle belt is still, but buckle is no longer a dish out of the cloth knot, copper, jade, agate, and then high point, is the Qing Dynasty upper officials used copper gilt.

    There are more patterns on the buttons: bat (Fu) Shou double, five bat (Fu) holding longevity, magpie reaching Mei...

    Look at the two magpies, the plum blossoms are flying low, and the heart is widening unconsciously.

    Moreover, the shapes of these "knots" are also different.

    It has been rumoured that gold buttons have been found, but Mr. Ho, who has been collecting clothes for decades, said that the best button he saw was copper gilt buttons.

    Mr. ho collected these buttons, some of which are no longer glossy because of the wear and tear for many years, but they are still "expensive."

    One pair (usually five pairs of buttons) is a copper gilt button, which can not be bought without 300 yuan.

    Now, Mr. ho often goes to the antique market to amend these things. As long as he sees them, he will buy them home.

    Mr. ho can't do the buttons, but he knows that the way of making the buttons and cutting cloth is different at that time.

    Usually make clothes, always according to the latitude and longitude of the straight line cutting, and the cloth to do the button should be cut according to the direction of 45 degree angle, so that the buttons do not break.

    At that time, the complexity of the process was beyond the imagination of the people, but the skilled old tailor made it very fast. They studied all day long.

    Compared with the products on the assembly line now, Mr. Ho's favorite saying is, "look at the old work!"


     

    The dragon still needs to be finished

    The button is a button used in traditional Chinese dress, which is used to fasten the skirt or decoration.

    From the belt to the button, from single color to multi color coordination, from the simplest straight buttons to the variety, from the "cloth knot" to the copper gilt, or even the legendary pure gold button, it brings people a colorful world.

    Moreover, in those days, the technology of the process was far beyond the imagination of people.

    To say that the button is beautiful again, after all, it is only an accessory of clothing.

    Although these years have been valued because of the gradual loss of technology, it has not yet been able to make clothes "expensive because of buttons".

    But safflower always needs green leaves, and the right style and fine workmanship will make the costumes more colorful.

    Do not believe it?

    Pick up a costume from the Republic of China, judging from the materials, styles and workmanship of the clothes, the master is "well-off" level.

    The button is the most common knot, but the stitch is very thin, and the thread has been inserted into the cloth. The lump is regularly put out.

    Now look at a thousand yuan dress, the belt is big and thick, the stitch is very loose, with a bald lump, giving people a kind of loose feeling.

    In contrast, let's stand tall.

    Although most of the time, the small buttons are ignored by us. In the past and present, most people are willing to be masters of finishing their eyes, rather than being a laughing stock.

    Now, is the current button made so impetuous, or is it really strong enough?

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