Exclusive Interview With Swedish Fashion Designer Ann-Sofie Back Can Not Define

Ann-Sofie Back often takes things that make her unhappy as inspiration. She can pcend prejudices and mockery and make them look new.

She refused to be sociable and refused to be labelled, but in her eyes, all the cliches in the fashion world were interesting.

Ann-Sofie Back not only writes blogs and Twitter, but also is a virtual reality online game "second life" player.

In the game, her character makes a living by striptease.

3 months ago, she moved her fictitious image to the T stage of London's 2010 autumn winter fashion week, but the audience saw not the dancers, but the future female warriors who had sunglasses and covered clothes.

"I don't like playing second life very much. It's tedious and difficult to manipulate."

She is only interested in the way players dress up for virtual characters.

She is always fascinated by things that she may not appreciate and approve of.

"I get inspiration from things that make me unhappy or puzzled, because it's much more interesting than taking butterflies and something like that as inspiration."

She said.

As the most internationally renowned Swedish fashion designer, Ann-Sofie's works are included in the Swedish fashion exploration fashion new identity exhibition held at the south shore Art Center in Shanghai. Her works are two sets of black fashion with many sunglasses as decorative elements, inspired by the Hollywood pop culture - another thing that she dislikes and is interested in.

In her view, it is important to use hundreds of sparkling sunglasses to make wonderful short shawls or little black ones instead of what they say or who she intends to laugh at.

In the introduction of the exhibitors, her first sentence is: "Ann-Sofie Back is reluctant to define her own design. She thinks that lack of definition is interesting."

Let's try to define the 39 year old Swedish designer through some facts.

She was born in a suburb of Stockholm where there was no fashion. She graduated from the Backman School of design in Stockholm, and later went to central Saint Martin to continue her studies in art and design.

In October 2001, she first released her homonymous Series in Paris, and then returned to London after the 4 season, and then took part in the London Fashion week.

Her design style is generally regarded as "avant-garde and difficult to understand" by the industry. Her favorite designer is Martin Margiela. Her style is lighter than that.

Unlike most female designers, her design is always more experimental than real. However, she also has a more practical sub line brand BACK.

Last year, she was named the chief designer of CheapMonday, a famous Swedish cowboy leisure brand. She also moved his brand headquarters from London to Stockholm.

"Young people on the streets of Stockholm seem to be fashionable, but they all wear almost the same clothes."

She describes Sweden's fashion atmosphere, so she does not consider herself a typical Swedish designer.

Similarly, she is not a typical London designer, or a typical female designer.

"I have always disliked being sociable. I like to confuse others and myself."

She said.

It seems that it is really hard for us to define her.

But what does it matter?

As she said, "don't be respectful to fashion, and don't take yourself too seriously."

B= the Bund pictorial

A=Ann-Sofie Back

From fashion to stereotyped B: in this exhibition of "Swedish fashion, exploration, fashion, new identity", there are many black lenses on your two works. What do you want to express?

A: in Sweden, sunglasses are a status symbol.

No matter what season, people will wear sunglasses once the clouds are exposed to the sun.

In addition, sunglasses are also props used by celebrities to cover up their true colors.

The theme of my 2008 autumn and winter series is about the culture of stars. The two works you see on the exhibition are from 2008 spring and summer, or the rudiments of the autumn and winter series.

In fact, in the spring and summer series of 2005, I have tried to make earrings and necklaces with sunglasses.

B: from the point of view of T, your design is conceptualized and a little hard to wear.

Will they be improved when they are sold in stores?

A: No, the clothes sold in the store are exactly the same as those on the T stand.

But my secondary line brand BACK is much easier to wear, and it takes care of the needs of customers.

What is the key single product in B:Ann-Sofie Back 2009 autumn and winter series?

A: emphasis on the sense of volume of the gauze clothing, the old knot yarn fabric.

B: People's impression is that the works of female designers are usually more practical and easy to wear, but this does not seem to apply to you.

A: I don't agree with this statement. My secondary line brand BACK is very real.

But I'm not really a very feminine designer. I get along better with men.

B: how has your design style changed so far?

A: my design has become more and more sophisticated and beautiful.

Although the direction of my search for inspiration has not changed, the design of clothing is much more regular than that when it first started in 2002.

B: what do you like best about Swedish style? What is your favorite aspect?

A: I don't like the way people dress here. They are all fashionable, but they are all the same, even those who think they are different.

I don't like the lack of originality and the industry tradition of copying big brands.

However, like most Swedes, I prefer monochromatic systems to very few decorative elements.

B: so, do you think you are a typical Swedish fashion designer?

A: not typical.

My only Scandinavian style sometimes focuses on challenging mainstream aesthetics.

From London to Stockholm

B: have you been in London for more than 10 years, is it influenced by the British style?

A: the influence of central Saint Martin on me is very big, mainly because they teach the method of design, but it is a very diverse culture school.

B: your debut show was held in Paris. Why did you stay in London Fashion week?

A: my company is very small, in London office is for the convenience of logistics management.

B: but last year, you moved the company back to Stockholm. Is this related to your appointment by Cheap Monday as the design brain?

A: No, this is a lucky coincidence.

Just two weeks before Cheap Monday approached me, I and my business partners have set a specific date for moving back to Stockholm.

B: is it better for your personal brand to go back to Stockholm?

A: the advantage is closer to our core market.

Although Swedes are dressed alike, the new trend is easier to stand out here, and Stockholm accepts new trends more quickly than London.

Life here is lighter and slower, and the people around us are not so picky, for fear that it will make me lazy.

B: How did you work with the founder and creative director Orjan Andersson of Cheap Monday?

A: Orjan and I used to know each other.

I think he is the boy in the poster of Cheap Monday.

Like me, he is not the kind of person who is respectful of fashion, nor will he take himself too seriously.

He is a sales person. I am a designer and complement each other.

B: last year, you opened your first independent store "Hostage Store" (hostage shop) in Stockholm. What's so special about it?

A: that's a temporary store. Every month we have an event, a party, an exhibition or a lecture.

It's quite time-consuming to take care of this store, but I think it's very meaningful to be able to communicate with customers face to face and understand their true thoughts.

B: can you tell us what new plans are coming up?

A: my vice line brand BACK will add accessories next spring and summer next year, such as bags, belts and sunglasses.

From punk to big woman

B: are you interested in fashion since you were young?

A: my parents don't care about everything related to beauty, fashion and art, so I like fashion. It's probably a rebellious mind.

When I was 4 years old, I got a pair of pink thick clogs, and I wore them in winter.

When I was 11 years old, I was a punk, wearing pointed high heels, wearing pin on panties, and making smoked makeup.

When I cut my hair short and soap up them, my mom said, "Oh, you look great!"

But I soon realized that the marginal culture had many limitations as well as the normal society, so we bid farewell to the punk era.

I have always disliked being sociable. I had better give myself an unapproachable feeling.

I like to confuse others and myself.

B: what is the first designer single item you have?

A: when I was in 14th Five-Year, I went to a hot dog stand every weekend to buy Jean PaulGaultier clothes. Only one store in Stockholm was sold at that time.

B: are you a Shopaholic?

A: I am the worst consumer.

I don't buy new things. I only wear my own design and mix it with second-hand clothes.

I have begun to consciously design for myself, and it seems that successful women's designers do this.

I will test the upcoming series on my own.

B: please describe your style of dressing. What kind of single item is the most in your wardrobe?

A: at present, the most I wear is a long black T-shirt, with a pparent hard yarn or a long skirt with a mesh. I will also wear a yellow PVC belt to cover a tailored men's coat.

The shoes I usually wear are square head high heels.

B: if you hadn't become a fashion designer, what would you most like to be in?

A: I was watching the animal channel program "animal cop" recently. I want to do this!

I have a little Boston. She is the love of my life (except for my husband).

B: who do you regard as an idol?

A: No, I never looked at anyone like that.

B: so, do you have the most admired designer?

A:Martin Margiela and GordonMatta-Clark.

B: your design style really reminiscent of Martin Margiela.

A: I think he is a very serious designer, and I am lighter and less intelligent.

B: Please list 5 things that are essential in your life.

A:Style.com, central Saint Martin's library, my assistant Anders Bergren, my eyeliner, my naked crocodile skin hand bag.

B: which city do you like best?

London?

Los Angeles?

Or else?

A: I prefer American cities: Portland, Oregon and Losangeles.

B: how do you usually spend your day?

A: I get up at 7:30 in the morning, ride my bike to the studio, check back the mail until 12 noon, and take a walk during the lunch break.

In the afternoon, I talked with the assistant and the plate maker, and spent several hours in designing.

I'll be off duty at 7 in the evening.

Not a wonderful day!