Fabric Supplier Direct Dialogue Designer
Recalling the "spectacular" scene of the more than 10000 clothes drying the entire factory space, Mr. Liu, deputy general manager of a cloth industry company in Quanzhou, could only smile and shake his head.
It happened not long ago.
The cloth company and one
Brand clothing
The company reached a cooperation agreement to provide the other party with a batch of fabric products.
"But due to the fact that our cooperation is not deep enough, the other side did not consult with us when they were using fabric, and the result was not proper after all.
Finally, we had to help them to wash and dry all the damaged clothes and reboot them for finishing.
At that time, the entire series of more than 10000 clothes filled the whole factory.
Mr. Liu introduced the way.
The incident caused many losses to Mr. Liu's company and made it clear the drawbacks of the current mode of simple business cooperation between the brand clothing enterprises and fabric suppliers.
As a result, the company began to seek more in-depth cooperation opportunities with customers, and tried to intervene in the design process of brand clothing customer enterprises in advance.
In fact, as market demand for clothing products is not limited to style design, the relationship between Quanzhou brand clothing enterprises and fabric suppliers has gone beyond simple pactions.
Including the Tai Lung cloth industry, Federation Sanhe, Longfeng textile technology, Xiang Xing, and other leading enterprises of Quanzhou fabric and brand customers, the form of cooperation has been more and more in-depth, and try to directly dialogue with the brand clothing designer, intervene in the brand clothing design process.
This trend is fully dominant this year.
awkward
Damaged function
Fabric
The embarrassment of the cooperation encountered by these peers is not unfamiliar to the Tai Lung cloth industry.
In the past two years, the company has also produced many "interesting things" in the process of cooperation with the brand clothing enterprises.
For example, a designer of a cooperative enterprise has introduced a splicing design, using nylon fabric to stitching with another fabric. It is not known that if these two fabrics are stitching together, they will appear color when finishing.
For example, some
Designer
In order to pursue the fashion trend, we prefer fluorescent dyes, but we do not know that the dyes are very demanding for fabrics.
Liu Zhishun, deputy general manager of the Tai Lung cloth industry, recalled with a bitter smile, "too many designers are too concerned about the style, but ignore the need to use the fabric."
Interesting things like this are not uncommon in the fabric industry.
Longfeng textile technology also encountered a major brand customer who made a mistake when ordering the ingredients, which resulted in a long time to solve the problem and delayed a lot of time. The federal Sanhe also encountered the function of the customer enterprise to make a coat for the underwear, which wasted the fabric's function of moisture absorption and perspiration. In addition, there were many problems neglected by the brand clothing enterprises, such as the unstable fluorescent dyeing and the tough cotton fabric.
"In fact, when many fabrics are used for forward and running tests, all indicators are consistent, but if the way is not correct after finishing and washing, the functionality will be weakened or even lost.
But most brand clothing enterprises ignore these in design. "
Wu Xiujian, director of R & D Department of Longfeng textile technology company, said.
This disadvantage is particularly evident in small and medium-sized brand clothing enterprises.
"At present, most of the brand clothing enterprises, especially small and medium-sized enterprises, most designers go out to buy samples, imitate learning, and then draw pictures. They only need to indicate what color they need, and do not describe in detail what materials and functional fabrics they need. After that, the purchasing department will buy several cloth samples for designers to choose.
In this process, the purchasing personnel are usually the relatives of the boss, not from the class or from the fabric.
Designers do not pay enough attention to the use of fabrics, and the lack of professionality of purchasing staff will eventually lead to many problems.
Mr. Chen, deputy general manager of a medium-sized garment enterprise in Shishi, reluctantly regrets.
attempt
Direct dialogue with fashion designers
Maybe it has been through many rework, maybe the market demand is getting higher and higher. Anyway, fortunately, most of the brand clothing enterprises begin to have the awareness of awakening and pay more and more attention to the use of fabrics.
After a long time of preparation and preparation, Li Lang (China) Co., Ltd. set up a research and Development Department of surface accessories.
It is understood that the Department and the design department, commodity planning department jointly formed the commodity center of the company.
"Men's clothing is of a relatively simple style. Therefore, many times we need to rely on the fabric changes to reflect the brand's style, and to judge the trend of fashion.
Especially for designer brand, the importance of fabric is self-evident.
This is also the reason for the establishment of our department.
Du Wan, head of R & D excipient, said duwan.
According to him, in the past two years, he has invested heavily in fabric research and development. He always keeps up with and studies the latest trend of fabric.
In order to grasp the latest fashion trend, in the process of design, Le Lang also gradually increased communication with suppliers, giving suppliers and designers dialogue opportunities.
In the case of Li Lang, when the commodity planning department sets out the theme and style of the seasonal products, the surface accessories department and the design department will communicate with the design and raw materials, and jointly collide the research and development ideas of the product, and finally decide the design plan.
"After the plan is set, the fabric supplier will provide the sample cloth. Then we will proceed with the product development, design the product, and then consult and customize the fabric supplier.
Another way is to explore the combined product development with suppliers.
Long term cooperation with the fixed fabric suppliers, the company has reached a tacit understanding of the development ideas with the other partners, including the color, theme and so on, and then the supplier tailored the plan for us and then developed it.
On the other hand, fabric suppliers, as suppliers, are also actively increasing their communication with the brand clothing enterprises. The designers' communication patterns have become the basis for further cooperation.
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In the middle of this month, Mr. Wu, the R & D director of the Tai Lung cloth industry, will go to Guangdong to inspect the market with the design director of digital brand clothing customers. Before that, Mr. Wu has also been working with customers to visit the markets of Japan and South Korea to catch up with the latest trend.
"The design directors of both sides go to see the market, understand the trend of fashion, and then communicate, exchange ideas and suggestions, so as to avoid future cooperation friction, and cooperate more efficiently and better."
Liu Zhishun thinks.
Since last year, federate Sanhe, Longfeng textile technology and Xiang Xing and most other fabric enterprises have begun to move from docking procurement department to docking research and development department in the process of cooperation with brand customers.
"We will first recommend the latest cloth samples to the purchasing department, and then communicate with the designers and the fabric research departments directly after obtaining the recognition. We will recommend the products combined with their design ideas, and make suggestions to reasonably apply the fabric functionality to the extreme.
After the completion of the design, we will also participate in the new product launches of the company, and further communicate with the finished products.
Federal Sanhe vice general manager Wang Ronghua said.
explore
Become R & D partners?
After many customer enterprises began to attach importance to fabrics and set up relevant research teams or departments, Longfeng textile technology clearly felt that it had worked smoothly with customers.
But professional problems have been troubling both sides.
It is worth affirming that brand clothing enterprises attach importance to fabrics and establish relevant departments for systematic research.
But we also find that the professionalism of these professionals is still lacking.
Therefore, we suggest that brand clothing enterprises either seek experienced professionals or strengthen R & D cooperation with suppliers.
In my opinion, if you want to expand the upstream accessories business, brand clothing enterprises and their establishment of a less professional department are not as good as reaching R & D cooperation agreements with fabric suppliers directly.
This cooperation mode of division of labor and strong cooperation has already had a successful precedent in the province, and Quanzhou enterprises can consider it for reference.
Wu Xiujian, for example, said that the cooperation between Fuzhou Hua Guan textile and its customers Bosideng is very deep. Hua Guan's R & D department can be called Bosideng's R & D department, and the former R & D personnel's advice is often used by the latter.
For this mode of cooperation, it is feasible for the brand clothing enterprises to do so, but the bigger beneficiaries lie in the fabric suppliers.
"For small and medium-sized enterprises, not only designers are not familiar with fabrics, and some even buyers have little knowledge of fabrics, so they need to have people who know about fabrics to work together to form research and development teams.
It is a win-win cooperation mode to cooperate with suppliers who have worked together for a long time.
Of course, regardless of the size of the brand clothing enterprises, the fabric suppliers will benefit more from them. First, they will be able to understand the latest market situation of the customer enterprises and the industry in a timely manner, and also cultivate more loyal customers through in-depth cooperation.
Mr. Li, a person in charge of a clothing enterprise in Jinjiang, said.
And many fabric enterprises believe that, in depth R & D cooperation, the greater beneficiaries are brand clothing enterprises.
"The functional application of fabrics can not only make clothing products more perfect, but also help brand clothing companies identify new products.
For example, we introduce a cooling fabric that can be used for formal clothing.
We understand the uniqueness of this fabric, which can guide customers to sell their brand as a selling point.
Wang Ronghua said.
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