Chinese National Costume Culture -- Tujia Dress Culture

The history of Tujia nationality was recorded in Song Dynasty as early as the Song Dynasty. However, in this period and before Song Dynasty, all documents did not specifically talk about the dress of Tujia people.

Until the Qing Dynasty, Tujia people

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When the Tujia ancestors were in the age of primitive tribes, they did not know how to spin and weave. They only had to wear grass roots, animal skins and so on. In the old song and dance "Mao Gusi" and "Waving Dance", there had been straw hairs and images of soil covered with flowers.

During the five generation of Kaiping, the Han nationality of Jiangxi, the chief of the Han Dynasty, returned to Chu, and was named as the governor of the Xizhou Prefecture, where thousands of people and craftsmen entered the area where Tujia people lived.

In the Song Dynasty, Tujia brocade technology developed to a very high level and was listed as a tribute to the imperial court. The history books were called "Xi bu", "Tong bu", "Tu Jin" and "Bao bu".

Influenced by the advanced technology of the Han nationality, Tujia people changed their short cloth into apron and pformed the cloak into a dress by using self woven dyed cloth and earth brocade.

Different costumes are an important symbol for distinguishing different nationalities.

With the development of the times and the progress of society, although the Tujia dress has undergone changes, it still retains its traditional characteristics.

Male: head wrapped green silk handkerchief or green cloth, white cloth par 2.3 to 3 meters, the adult character road.

The older coat was called "Pipa", and the bronze buckles were placed on the edge of the garment, and the "Silver Hook" was embroidered on the edge of the garment. Then gradually wore full of plaid (more than middle-aged) and pairs of corsets. The young people wore more pairs of corsets, and five to seven pairs of buckles were placed in the middle.

Trousers are green, blue cloth and white cloth waist, shoes are sorghum white shoes.

Women: head wrapped 1.7 to 2.3 meters of green silk or green cloth, no herringbone road.

Coat cloth: 1, big top, left open sleeve sleeves big and short, no collar, rolled edge, skirts and cuffs have two different green edges, but not lace.

Two, silver hook, this kind of clothes is a short collar, the skirt and cuffs are wide green edges, the cuffs are green edges, plus three five colored plum edges, and the green edges are embroidered with colored lines.

Three, three strands, large sleeves, cuffs 16.5 cm wide, 1.65 cm high, with three thin edges.

Four, the wedding dress, the bride likes to wear "dew clothes" (that is, red clothes), this kind of clothing is long and big.

Women's shoes are more particular. Besides the "shoe dog's teeth", the upper is often made of green, blue and pink silk.

The front of the shoe is embroidered with different colors of silk, flowers, butterflies and bees.

Embroidered insole is the most precious gift that a girl gives to the person in mind. The production of this insole is first dried with flour paste cloth, then cut out the insole pattern with paper. After painting the grid, the patterns of green or blue, white, red, green, yellow, purple and other multicolored lines are manually drawn.

Children's clothes are highlighted on their caps.

Hat shape is determined according to age and season: for example, wearing "purple golden crown" in spring and autumn, wearing "wax gourd circle" in summer, and wearing "dog cap", "fish tail cap" and "wind cap" in winter.

These hats are embroidered with five colored silk threads, such as "magpie making plum", "Phoenix wearing peony" and "long life and rich", "easy to raise adults", "Fu Lu Shou Xi" and other flowers and birds and characters. On the front of the hat, there are "big eight Immortals", "small eight immortals", "Eighteen Lohan" and other silver Bodhisattvas.

The pattern of sleeves and trouser feet of Tujia women's clothing is entirely "cross stitch", that is, using a coherent "little cross" on the cloth to form lines or squares, and then combine them into patterns of flowers, birds, fish and insects.

In composition, the use of color pformation reflects the feeling of rhythm.

With the color green, red, yellow or yellow, green and red, this same color, not changing the shape and changing color method, to promote stiff, single continuous patterns rich, gorgeous and colorful, to give people the enjoyment of beauty.

These exquisite costumes are the wisdom of Tujia people and the treasures of national costumes.

The basic features of Tujia men's clothing are: the jacket is "Pipa", and then gradually wear a breasted blouse and no collar full breasted jacket; waist wrapped cloth belt; trousers are large, trousers are big and short, all are blue and blue, and more Leggings; head wrapped with green silk handkerchiefs or five or six feet long white cloth is "human" shape; feet wear ear straw sandals, ear sandals, cloth shoes or spikes.

The basic features of Tujia women's dress are: the jacket is short, the right side is on the right side, the collar is inlaid with three lace (commonly known as "three strands"), and three small lace rails are placed on the edges and cuffs. Under the "eight robes", the skirt is pleat and straight, and then it is changed into trousers with three coloured lace on the trouser legs. The girl is dressed in a black cloth single coat.

Before liberation, Tujia people used cloth made of self woven and self dyed fabrics to make clothes.

Men wear black or blue. Women dye their cloth as "pleasant deer", "magpie making plum" and "Shuang Feng Chaoyang".

According to historical records, the clothing of Tujia people in the Song Dynasty was called "Xi bu", "Tong bu" and "Tujin".

After being influenced by the advanced technology of the Han nationality, Tujia people made their aprons with self woven "homespun".

In modern times, great changes have taken place in Tujia costumes, but many traditional styles have been retained.

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The Tujia people always wear full sleeved clothes with the characteristics of Pipa lapel, with their shoulders, short collar and big cuffs, and lace.

Men's girdle and embroidered apron.

All the heads are covered with green cloth or silk handkerchiefs, and men's palms hang on the left side of the ear. Women are all over Baotou.

The unmarried girl wears long hair and braids, and uses red headed string to tie up the two ends, leaving "bangs" before the forehead.

Married women wear a bun, hairpin and silver.

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The trousers are mostly blue and blue with white trousers and short trousers.

The young men play leggings, and the women's trousers are trimmed with a pair of colored cloth, with three equal plum strips, and green shoes on the feet, and white binders.

In the event of a happy holiday or visiting relatives and friends, there is another way of dressing up, such as GAPP, toothpicks, silver and so on.

Tujia costumes have only been seen in great Daqing and performing occasions in recent years.

A hundred clothes, as the name suggests, is the clothes that are exchanged with the family's money.

The original formation is so: after the birth of the parents of Tujia parents, the babies often cry for crying because of discomfort. Some of them are ill and their parents are helpless. Therefore, most elders believe superstition that children are spoiled by their lives. So long as they turn to be humble or ordinary people, they must be well fed.

Out of this rich imagination, Tujia people changed their beauty by letting their children wear hundreds of clothes.

How does a hundred clothes come from? The parents of their children are called "beggars", even if the rich families are willing.

Parents carry their children to their homes and relatives in their six homes. They bow to the ground and do some good deeds, ask for some money, and make a hundred clothes for their children.

When the other party saw it, he knew it well and went back to the road. "Oh, there is a beggar!"

Then he paid the money and sent the money aside, saying, "good breeding, good feeding, long life."

Regardless of the amount of money, an old egg is now 35 cents, and the generous one is ten yuan and eight yuan.

In this way, hundreds of families will be paid in turn, and the money will be bought for wearing a pair of trousers and worn on children.

If there is more, we must do good deeds and donate to repair bridges and make roads.

Perhaps because of the psychological effect and sincerity, the majority of children have a hundred clothes, but they are well raised.

Today, this custom has been restored and preserved in Tujia rural areas.

Hanging flower skirt

It is mainly used to block dust and warm in winter, because the upper end has a cloth ring, buckle on the neck button, and the lower end is flush with the upper garment, so it is called "hanging skirt", though it is rough and worn. But women are very particular about this. They often use blue cloth to make white line flowers. They are composed of two groups of upper and lower patterns. They are very coordinated. Nowadays, with less flowers, a large flower cut off from colored cloth is replaced by several flowers in the upper part of the hanging skirt, and a pair of purse is set up in the lower part, which is beautiful and convenient to carry small articles. This is also the new development of the hanging skirt, but it still has the national characteristics. "Hanging skirt" is a kind of apron worn by Tujia women on the chest, and can not be left in spring, summer, autumn and winter.

The custom of wearing a hanging skirt is still under way among the public.

Foot horse

Tujia cottage, every rainy day, the road is slippery and slippery, and it is very inconvenient to walk. Especially on the yellow mud road, it has just rained, and there is a layer of mud on the surface. People call it "hard head mud". It's a long way to slip. If you take such a road behind your back, wrestling will be miserable. Therefore, in order to prevent slipping, people usually wear "foot horse".

The "foot horse" is made of iron, a rectangular iron ring or iron sheet, with two ends cocked up, slightly wider than the feet, and 4 to 6 iron nipples under it. On rainy days, it is tied to shoes and trampled on several litters, and naturally it does not slip.

Dew coat

The dew clothes were the clothes worn by the Tujia girls in the west when they were married. They also had dew skirts, dew shoes and dew umbrellas.

The dew coat is usually made up of three parts: coat, trousers and skirt. The coat is made of big, big sleeves and big pendulum, and the lower garment is a big trouser leg. The upper and lower garments are fitted with "Lan Gan" lace skirt, and eight robe skirts. After wearing the dew coat, there is a copper Yb and a "magic mirror" on the front of the chest.

Before entering the door of a man's house, the bride will change her clothes and wear the clothes sent by the men.

In the grass and gongs and drums, there is a dew sign: "come early, come early, wear dew clothes, wear dew shoes on your feet, and play your dew umbrella, so you can't come for love."

Why is it called dew clothes? It is said that there once was a Tujia man named Chun Ge. He met a fox in his field. He killed the fox and saved the pheasant. He was hurt. The blood was on the pheasant. Suddenly, the golden pheasant became a beautiful girl. They were dependent on each other's life. They became husband and wife. Later, when they met the goddess of mercy, the goddess of mercy sprinkled some dew on the girl's body and became a string of pearls hanging on the edge of the clothes.

In the old days, the Tujia girl in Western Hubei had to wear a dew coat when she married. She had made good use of the economy and made bad use of it.

Barbarian and sand burden

The headwear of Tujia people in Western Hubei is rich and colorful. In daily life, especially when working in the field, women are mostly dressed in "sand bag", and men are mostly "pretty heads".

With a rectangular cloth, both ends of the sand roll are slightly rolled up, and the top two corners are crossed together. The front two corners are naturally stretched and shaped like bamboo strips.

The barbarian burden is straight on the head with a rectangular cloth. The shoulders are covered with shoulders. Then the cloth in front is closed, and from the right to the left is wrapped around the head, and the ends are fastened. The advantage of this headwear is that the back soil can prevent the soil from leaking to the body and protect the "back neck", while the winter can keep the wind cold.

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Straw sandals

Wearing straw sandals is a very common custom, but it is usually "ear shoes", only four rows of ears, while Tujia people on the coast of Qingjiang love to wear "ear sandals".

Ears around the sole of the sole are ears, the ears in front are long, and the back is shortened in turn. The shoe is shaped like a shoe, and has a "nose" after it has a "heel". It is very stable on the feet.

Full of ear grass shoes, usually worn with cloth socks, a legged legged leggings, mountain climbing firewood, hunting, protection for feet and legs, and cold protection in winter. Nowadays, many people, especially those working in high mountains and half mountains, are still accustomed to wearing this kind of straw sandals.

In 1956, when Mr. Pan Guangdan made his national expedition in Changyang, he thought it was one of the unique customs of Tujia men in Western Hubei.

The Tujia women here do not wear this straw sandals, and they will laugh if they wear straw sandals.

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Herringbone scarf

Tujia, Miao and other popular Baotou towel, but the Tujia scarf is different. As the saying goes, "the herringbone road with a leggings, the scarf of the headscarves" highlights the character of a Tujia people.

The method of wrapping a scarf is usually made of five to seven feet of household cloth, and the weft ends are drawn at both ends to form a whisker. This is "playing the beard". This is beauty.

The right hand holds the end of the play, the scarf is worn on the head, left to the left ear, the left hand scarf is wrapped around the right, one up and up, forming a herringbone on the forehead, and playing must drop behind the left ear.

This kind of headwear is suitable for both men and women. Its color is mainly blue and blue. Later, due to the influence of the "white lotus" uprising in the Changyang area, the white lotus religion wrapped white towels and raised white flags, symbolizing its purity. The national armed uprising in Changyang, many Tujia people committed heroic devotion to the white lotus uprising, so later the Tujia people's headscarves in Changyang were changed from blue to white.

Three aprons

Tujia men and women have the custom of wearing aprons.

Receiving guests is different from the aprons used in daily life.

Women receive guests with dew skirts, bell skirts, 100 fold skirts, embroidered skirts, etc.

Men like to wear "three skirts". The three skirts can be rough and entertain. As the saying goes, "three skirts for men, no disgrace in the banquet hall."

A folk song has been circulated along the coast of Qingjiang: "three aprons, white cloth waist, rough play to enter the dynasty, cotton weaving home machine cloth, people do not ask for people generally high."

Some people can hardly leave three skirts in the four seasons. They keep warm and windy in winter, work in summer, block up ash, lift up shoulder pads, and rest cushion.

The practice of three skirts is relatively simple, with three pieces of cloth or white cloth on the waist of a piece of white cloth. The width and weight of the skirt are two inches, and the middle width is two pouches.

The custom of wearing three skirts is still prevalent in Western Hubei.